I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
a wall.
I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
4 Prime it
5 Sand
6 Tack Cloth
7 Paint 2 coats.
8 let dry thoroughly
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Bill
On Thu, 24 Jan 2019 08:23:57 -0600, Bill Gill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
>But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
>need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
>because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
>workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
>mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
>is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
>a wall.
>
>I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
>1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
>2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
>3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
>4 Prime it
>5 Sand
>6 Tack Cloth
>7 Paint 2 coats.
>8 let dry thoroughly
>
>Any suggestions?
Waterborne polyurethane is probably the safe bet. Something
solvent-based is risky unless you know what's already on it.
On Thursday, January 31, 2019 at 9:15:14 AM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
=20
> I bet it was Robert.
>=20
>=20
> --=20
>=20
> -MIKE-
LOL... bet you are right. Still use it, still love it. Can't brush it, but=
if you can spray lacquer, you can spray this stuff.
A lot of speculation on what to use on furniture, and for me, no question i=
t would be alkyd. Latex is considered a permeable finish, and alkyd is alm=
ost impermeable. With alkyd finishes the abrasion resistance is much great=
er and its light resistance is higher.
Green strength of alkyd is 48-72 hours depending on site conditions such as=
ventilation, temperature and humidity. Full cure is about 21 days accordi=
ng to SW, Coronado, Pittsburgh etc.
Latex is not a favorite for horizontal surfaces, high abrasion surfaces, or=
surfaces exposed to water. NOTE: I specified horizontal surfaces. Latex=
will shed water when given a chance (vertical surfaces) but is still a per=
meable surface. I have seen green/cure times vary so wildly over the years=
I wouldn't speculate on either.
So as a contractor, I need something I can control and something I can rely=
on for specific performance. I use latex on walls, some trims, alkyd on ev=
erything else.
To see a brief discussion on permeability of paints, check out this link:
https://www.dulux.ca/diy/tips-tricks/common-problems/filler-shows-through-t=
he-paint-(4)
Robert
On 1/25/2019 5:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 12:07:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
>>> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
>>> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
>>> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
>>> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
>>> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
>>> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
>>> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
>>> a wall.
>>>
>>> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
>>> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
>>> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
>>> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
>>> 4 Prime it
>>> 5 Sand
>>> 6 Tack Cloth
>>> 7 Paint 2 coats.
>>> 8 let dry thoroughly
>>>
>>> Any suggestions?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bill
>>
>>
>> so that objects will not stick to the surface I would advise to avoid
>> latex type paints. I would go with an Alkaid Oil based paint.
>
> The Benjamin Moore Advance paint may fit the need without the oil paint
> clean up.
>
> "A premium quality, waterborne alkyd enamel that delivers the desired
> flow and leveling characteristics of conventional alkyd paint. It
> provides a tough, satin finish that stands up to repeated washing.
> It is easy to apply, resists spattering and cleans up with soap and
> water."
>
> I used it on the cabinet/bookcase I built for the kitchen.
>
> "Ideal for interior doors, trim, cabinets, walls, and ceilings. For
> primed or previously painted wallboard, plaster, masonry, wood and
> metal."**
>
> However...
>
> "Depending on weather and drying conditions, it could take up to 30 days
> to reach optimum hardness and final sheen."
And why I suggested an oil based paint. They typically are good to go
in 24 hours.
As far as clean up goes. I would much rather clean up with thinner than
soap and water. Thinner cuts oil based paint almost instantly. Soap
and water on water based paint takes quite a while at the faucet. I
throw rollers away for both paints.
>
> Because of other things I was doing in the kitchen and then a 2 week
> vacation, I was actually able to let my project cure for the full 30 days
> before use.
>
> **I'm not sure about that "Ideal for...walls and ceilings" claim. Even my
> Benjamin Moore dealer was hesitant. When I went to buy the paint for the
> kitchen walls, she suggested the Aura line instead of the Advance. She said
> it can be very hard to prevent sags with the Advance line. It is kind of
> thick.
>
> The Aura is very quick drying. Under the proper conditions you can recoat in
> 1 hour. I actually enjoyed painting with it. Did the whole kitchen in one day.
>
On 1/24/2019 9:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
> a wall.
Is it possible that the wood under the paint is something really nice?
If so, I'd strip it and polyurethane it. If you want paint, a good
enamel should do.
Going back 30 years or more, it was common for people to "antique"
furniture by painting it with a kit. Some nice wood got hidden for the
sake of some trendy style.
On 1/30/2019 6:14 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 1/30/19 10:53 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/29/2019 5:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 12:05:59 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 1/25/2019 5:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 12:07:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
>>>>>>> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
>>>>>>> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
>>>>>>> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
>>>>>>> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
>>>>>>> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
>>>>>>> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
>>>>>>> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
>>>>>>> a wall.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
>>>>>>> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
>>>>>>> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
>>>>>>> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
>>>>>>> 4 Prime it
>>>>>>> 5 Sand
>>>>>>> 6 Tack Cloth
>>>>>>> 7 Paint 2 coats.
>>>>>>> 8 let dry thoroughly
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Any suggestions?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>>> Bill
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> so that objects will not stick to the surface I would advise to avoid
>>>>>> latex type paints. I would go with an Alkaid Oil based paint.
>>>>>
>>>>> The Benjamin Moore Advance paint may fit the need without the oil
>>>>> paint
>>>>> clean up.
>>>>>
>>>>> "A premium quality, waterborne alkyd enamel that delivers the
>>>>> desired
>>>>> flow and leveling characteristics of conventional alkyd
>>>>> paint. It
>>>>> provides a tough, satin finish that stands up to repeated
>>>>> washing.
>>>>> It is easy to apply, resists spattering and cleans up with
>>>>> soap and
>>>>> water."
>>>>>
>>>>> I used it on the cabinet/bookcase I built for the kitchen.
>>>>>
>>>>> "Ideal for interior doors, trim, cabinets, walls, and
>>>>> ceilings. For
>>>>> primed or previously painted wallboard, plaster, masonry, wood
>>>>> and
>>>>> metal."**
>>>>>
>>>>> However...
>>>>>
>>>>> "Depending on weather and drying conditions, it could take up to 30
>>>>> days
>>>>> to reach optimum hardness and final sheen."
>>>>
>>>> And why I suggested an oil based paint. They typically are good to go
>>>> in 24 hours.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Ah, but a question still remains:
>>>
>>> Which ends up harder after it's own published curing time? I don't
>>> know the
>>> answer, I just ask the questions. ;-)
>>>
>>> In other words, does the Advance paint end up harder and more durable
>>> after
>>> it's 30 day complete cure than the oil paint does after it's 24 hour
>>> complete
>>> cure? Let's not quibble over cure times. Let's wait 6 months and then
>>> test
>>> both paints. I'm pretty sure that they would both be 100% cured by then.
>>>
>>> If the Advance paint is harder than the oil 6 months down the road, then
>>> it's the better paint for a "desk/part time workbench". Again, I'm
>>> not saying
>>> that it will be, I'm simply saying that it's not about cure time,
>>> it's about
>>> ultimate hardness/durability.
>>>
>>
>> I use Sherwin Williams Oil based Alkyd paint on all of my wife's
>> quilting studio furniture, 7 separate pieces. Nothing sticks to it
>> and the surface is hard. She regularly swaps out sewing machines from
>> her 8' sewing table with no stick spots or marks left in the paint
>> surface. If there is a harder drying surface, she/we don't need it.
>> And seriously who wants to wait 30 days or 6 months to use the
>> surface? We actually wait 3~4 days to place the sewing machines and
>> fabrics on the surfaces but we can easily handle the painted surfaces
>> 24 hours after application.
>
> Weren't you the guy who swore by conversion varnish for painting stuff
> that needs a hard, non-tacky finish.
> I was researching some cabinet door/drawer providers and they seem to
> all use a conversion varnish as a top coat.
>
>
Not me. Although I have used a gel varnish on top of flat paints.
On 1/24/2019 7:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
> a wall.
>
> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
> 4 Prime it
> 5 Sand
> 6 Tack Cloth
> 7 Paint 2 coats.
> 8 let dry thoroughly
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Bill
It's a $69 Salvation Army desk that you're going to be using
as a workbench. Paint it however you want. Use spray paint
if you want to avoid brush or roller marks. If you mess up
the surface during use, give the top a quick prep and paint it again.
On Thursday, January 24, 2019 at 9:24:02 AM UTC-5, Bill Gill wrote:
> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
> a wall.
>
> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
> 4 Prime it
> 5 Sand
> 6 Tack Cloth
> 7 Paint 2 coats.
> 8 let dry thoroughly
>
> Any suggestions?
>
Check out Benjamin Moore Advance.
On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 12:05:59 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> On 1/25/2019 5:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 12:07:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> >> On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
> >>> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
> >>> But it is white.=C2=A0 Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
> >>> need to change the color.=C2=A0 I need something pretty tough,
> >>> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
> >>> workbench for assembling small items.=C2=A0 The top has some
> >>> mars, I will need to clean and seal it.=C2=A0 On one edge it
> >>> is damaged a bit.=C2=A0 Probably from being pushed up against
> >>> a wall.
> >>>
> >>> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
> >>> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
> >>> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
> >>> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
> >>> 4 Prime it
> >>> 5 Sand
> >>> 6 Tack Cloth
> >>> 7 Paint 2 coats.
> >>> 8 let dry thoroughly
> >>>
> >>> Any suggestions?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks
> >>> Bill
> >>
> >>
> >> so that objects will not stick to the surface I would advise to avoid
> >> latex type paints. I would go with an Alkaid Oil based paint.
> >=20
> > The Benjamin Moore Advance paint may fit the need without the oil paint
> > clean up.
> >=20
> > "A premium quality, waterborne alkyd enamel that delivers the desire=
d
> > flow and leveling characteristics of conventional alkyd paint. It
> > provides a tough, satin finish that stands up to repeated washin=
g.
> > It is easy to apply, resists spattering and cleans up with soap an=
d
> > water."
> >=20
> > I used it on the cabinet/bookcase I built for the kitchen.
> >=20
> > "Ideal for interior doors, trim, cabinets, walls, and ceilings. Fo=
r
> > primed or previously painted wallboard, plaster, masonry, wood and
> > metal."**
> >=20
> > However...
> >=20
> > "Depending on weather and drying conditions, it could take up to 30 day=
s
> > to reach optimum hardness and final sheen."
>=20
> And why I suggested an oil based paint. They typically are good to go=20
> in 24 hours.
>=20
Ah, but a question still remains:
Which ends up harder after it's own published curing time? I don't know the=
=20
answer, I just ask the questions. ;-) =20
In other words, does the Advance paint end up harder and more durable after=
=20
it's 30 day complete cure than the oil paint does after it's 24 hour comple=
te
cure? Let's not quibble over cure times. Let's wait 6 months and then test=
=20
both paints. I'm pretty sure that they would both be 100% cured by then.
If the Advance paint is harder than the oil 6 months down the road, then=20
it's the better paint for a "desk/part time workbench". Again, I'm not sayi=
ng=20
that it will be, I'm simply saying that it's not about cure time, it's abou=
t
ultimate hardness/durability.
On 1/29/2019 8:52 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Tue, 29 Jan 2019 11:05:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 1/25/2019 5:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 12:07:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
>>>>> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
>>>>> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
>>>>> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
>>>>> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
>>>>> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
>>>>> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
>>>>> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
>>>>> a wall.
>>>>>
>>>>> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
>>>>> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
>>>>> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
>>>>> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
>>>>> 4 Prime it
>>>>> 5 Sand
>>>>> 6 Tack Cloth
>>>>> 7 Paint 2 coats.
>>>>> 8 let dry thoroughly
>>>>>
>>>>> Any suggestions?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>> Bill
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> so that objects will not stick to the surface I would advise to avoid
>>>> latex type paints. I would go with an Alkaid Oil based paint.
>>>
>>> The Benjamin Moore Advance paint may fit the need without the oil paint
>>> clean up.
>>>
>>> "A premium quality, waterborne alkyd enamel that delivers the desired
>>> flow and leveling characteristics of conventional alkyd paint. It
>>> provides a tough, satin finish that stands up to repeated washing.
>>> It is easy to apply, resists spattering and cleans up with soap and
>>> water."
>>>
>>> I used it on the cabinet/bookcase I built for the kitchen.
>>>
>>> "Ideal for interior doors, trim, cabinets, walls, and ceilings. For
>>> primed or previously painted wallboard, plaster, masonry, wood and
>>> metal."**
>>>
>>> However...
>>>
>>> "Depending on weather and drying conditions, it could take up to 30 days
>>> to reach optimum hardness and final sheen."
>>
>> And why I suggested an oil based paint. They typically are good to go
>> in 24 hours.
>>
>> As far as clean up goes. I would much rather clean up with thinner than
>> soap and water. Thinner cuts oil based paint almost instantly. Soap
>> and water on water based paint takes quite a while at the faucet. I
>> throw rollers away for both paints.
>
> A little dish soap, a bucket of water, and an hour or three soaking,
> make latex paint pretty much disappear from brushes or rollers. A
> quick rinse and an overnight dry an they're good to go again.
Understood and that is what I typically do but 10 or so years ago I was
helping a friend paint the interiors to homes, about 25 or so over a 10
year period. We did not have the time to let the brushes soak and dry.
We were putting in 8 hour days, really did not want to spend time
cleaning brushes at the end of the day and needed the brushes to be
ready to go the next day. With oil based and thinner/mineral spirits we
had clean brushes in less than 5 minutes with a double rinse in two
different containers of the cleaners
>
> I agree, though, this isn't a good application for latex paint. Gotta
> be careful to use a non-blocking paint, in any case.
>
On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 12:07:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
> > I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
> > But it is white.=C2=A0 Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
> > need to change the color.=C2=A0 I need something pretty tough,
> > because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
> > workbench for assembling small items.=C2=A0 The top has some
> > mars, I will need to clean and seal it.=C2=A0 On one edge it
> > is damaged a bit.=C2=A0 Probably from being pushed up against
> > a wall.
> >=20
> > I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
> > 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
> > 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
> > 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
> > 4 Prime it
> > 5 Sand
> > 6 Tack Cloth
> > 7 Paint 2 coats.
> > 8 let dry thoroughly
> >=20
> > Any suggestions?
> >=20
> > Thanks
> > Bill
>=20
>=20
> so that objects will not stick to the surface I would advise to avoid=20
> latex type paints. I would go with an Alkaid Oil based paint.
The Benjamin Moore Advance paint may fit the need without the oil paint=20
clean up.
"A premium quality, waterborne alkyd enamel that delivers the desired
flow and leveling characteristics of conventional alkyd paint. It=20
provides a tough, satin finish that stands up to repeated washing. =
=20
It is easy to apply, resists spattering and cleans up with soap and=20
water."
I used it on the cabinet/bookcase I built for the kitchen.=20
"Ideal for interior doors, trim, cabinets, walls, and ceilings. For=20
primed or previously painted wallboard, plaster, masonry, wood and=20
metal."**
However...
"Depending on weather and drying conditions, it could take up to 30 days=20
to reach optimum hardness and final sheen."
Because of other things I was doing in the kitchen and then a 2 week=20
vacation, I was actually able to let my project cure for the full 30 days
before use.
**I'm not sure about that "Ideal for...walls and ceilings" claim. Even my
Benjamin Moore dealer was hesitant. When I went to buy the paint for the
kitchen walls, she suggested the Aura line instead of the Advance. She said=
=20
it can be very hard to prevent sags with the Advance line. It is kind of=20
thick.=20
The Aura is very quick drying. Under the proper conditions you can recoat i=
n=20
1 hour. I actually enjoyed painting with it. Did the whole kitchen in one d=
ay.
On Friday, February 1, 2019 at 6:06:18 AM UTC-6, J. Clarke wrote:
>
> If abrasion resistance matters to you you want urethane. Some time
> back I spent a good bit of the taxpayers' money evaluating the
> abrasion resistance of various paints to use on military aircraft and
> the result consistently was that urethanes were as a group the most
> abrasion resistant paints available. There were more resistant
> coatings (thick nickel plating or boron carbide for example) but they
> could not be applied with a sprayer.
No doubt there are superior finishes of all types for any application that address specific aspects of coatings.
Working within the context of the OP's question, I would not suggest a coating that he probably could not apply without training, would no doubt have to purchase additional specialized equipment to apply, and would cost more than the desk itself.
Doubtful a well meaning hobby/DIY guy (but certainly not excluding the possibility) of application of true industrial related coatings (NOT paint) that you speak of.
Just in case, this is my first resource:
https://protective.sherwin-williams.com/
Robert
On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
> a wall.
>
> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
> 4 Prime it
> 5 Sand
> 6 Tack Cloth
> 7 Paint 2 coats.
> 8 let dry thoroughly
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Bill
so that objects will not stick to the surface I would advise to avoid
latex type paints. I would go with an Alkaid Oil based paint.
On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 9:34:38 PM UTC-5, Bill Gill wrote:
> On 1/25/2019 5:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 12:07:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> >> On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
> >>> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
> >>> But it is white.=C2=A0 Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
> >>> need to change the color.=C2=A0 I need something pretty tough,
> >>> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
> >>> workbench for assembling small items.=C2=A0 The top has some
> >>> mars, I will need to clean and seal it.=C2=A0 On one edge it
> >>> is damaged a bit.=C2=A0 Probably from being pushed up against
> >>> a wall.
> >>>
> >>> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
> >>> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
> >>> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
> >>> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
> >>> 4 Prime it
> >>> 5 Sand
> >>> 6 Tack Cloth
> >>> 7 Paint 2 coats.
> >>> 8 let dry thoroughly
> >>>
> >>> Any suggestions?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks
> >>> Bill
> >>
> >>
> >> so that objects will not stick to the surface I would advise to avoid
> >> latex type paints. I would go with an Alkaid Oil based paint.
> >=20
> > The Benjamin Moore Advance paint may fit the need without the oil paint
> > clean up.
> >=20
> > "A premium quality, waterborne alkyd enamel that delivers the desire=
d
> > flow and leveling characteristics of conventional alkyd paint. It
> > provides a tough, satin finish that stands up to repeated washin=
g.
> > It is easy to apply, resists spattering and cleans up with soap an=
d
> > water."
> >=20
> > I used it on the cabinet/bookcase I built for the kitchen.
> >=20
> > "Ideal for interior doors, trim, cabinets, walls, and ceilings. Fo=
r
> > primed or previously painted wallboard, plaster, masonry, wood and
> > metal."**
> >=20
> > However...
> >=20
> > "Depending on weather and drying conditions, it could take up to 30 day=
s
> > to reach optimum hardness and final sheen."
> >=20
> > Because of other things I was doing in the kitchen and then a 2 week
> > vacation, I was actually able to let my project cure for the full 30 da=
ys
> > before use.
> >=20
> > **I'm not sure about that "Ideal for...walls and ceilings" claim. Even =
my
> > Benjamin Moore dealer was hesitant. When I went to buy the paint for th=
e
> > kitchen walls, she suggested the Aura line instead of the Advance. She =
said
> > it can be very hard to prevent sags with the Advance line. It is kind o=
f
> > thick.
> >=20
> > The Aura is very quick drying. Under the proper conditions you can reco=
at in
> > 1 hour. I actually enjoyed painting with it. Did the whole kitchen in o=
ne day.
> >=20
> I found a review of the Aura paint. The reviewer apparently had some
> of the same problems. He suggested General Finishes paint. It is
> available here in Tulsa at Woodcraft.
>=20
> Bill
I'm not sure what you are talking about.
I posted nothing related to "problems" with the Aura paint.
In fact, my exact words were: "I actually enjoyed painting with it."
On Fri, 1 Feb 2019 01:05:19 -0800 (PST), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thursday, January 31, 2019 at 9:15:14 AM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> I bet it was Robert.
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> -MIKE-
>
>LOL... bet you are right. Still use it, still love it. Can't brush it, but if you can spray lacquer, you can spray this stuff.
>
>A lot of speculation on what to use on furniture, and for me, no question it would be alkyd. Latex is considered a permeable finish, and alkyd is almost impermeable. With alkyd finishes the abrasion resistance is much greater and its light resistance is higher.
If abrasion resistance matters to you you want urethane. Some time
back I spent a good bit of the taxpayers' money evaluating the
abrasion resistance of various paints to use on military aircraft and
the result consistently was that urethanes were as a group the most
abrasion resistant paints available. There were more resistant
coatings (thick nickel plating or boron carbide for example) but they
could not be applied with a sprayer.
>Green strength of alkyd is 48-72 hours depending on site conditions such as ventilation, temperature and humidity. Full cure is about 21 days according to SW, Coronado, Pittsburgh etc.
>
>Latex is not a favorite for horizontal surfaces, high abrasion surfaces, or surfaces exposed to water. NOTE: I specified horizontal surfaces. Latex will shed water when given a chance (vertical surfaces) but is still a permeable surface. I have seen green/cure times vary so wildly over the years I wouldn't speculate on either.
>
>So as a contractor, I need something I can control and something I can rely on for specific performance. I use latex on walls, some trims, alkyd on everything else.
>
>To see a brief discussion on permeability of paints, check out this link:
>
>https://www.dulux.ca/diy/tips-tricks/common-problems/filler-shows-through-the-paint-(4)
>
>Robert
>
On Thu, 24 Jan 2019 08:23:57 -0600, Bill Gill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
>But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
>need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
>because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
>workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
>mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
>is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
>a wall.
>I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
>1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
>2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
>3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
>4 Prime it
>5 Sand
>6 Tack Cloth
>7 Paint 2 coats.
>8 let dry thoroughly
>Any suggestions? Thanks Bill
Maybe a few coats of polyurethane - over the paint -
on the top for durability ?
.. making the toughness of the paint less of a factor.
Be sure to let the paint cure for a week or so.
John T.
On 1/29/2019 5:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 12:05:59 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/25/2019 5:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 12:07:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
>>>>> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
>>>>> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
>>>>> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
>>>>> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
>>>>> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
>>>>> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
>>>>> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
>>>>> a wall.
>>>>>
>>>>> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
>>>>> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
>>>>> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
>>>>> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
>>>>> 4 Prime it
>>>>> 5 Sand
>>>>> 6 Tack Cloth
>>>>> 7 Paint 2 coats.
>>>>> 8 let dry thoroughly
>>>>>
>>>>> Any suggestions?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>> Bill
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> so that objects will not stick to the surface I would advise to avoid
>>>> latex type paints. I would go with an Alkaid Oil based paint.
>>>
>>> The Benjamin Moore Advance paint may fit the need without the oil paint
>>> clean up.
>>>
>>> "A premium quality, waterborne alkyd enamel that delivers the desired
>>> flow and leveling characteristics of conventional alkyd paint. It
>>> provides a tough, satin finish that stands up to repeated washing.
>>> It is easy to apply, resists spattering and cleans up with soap and
>>> water."
>>>
>>> I used it on the cabinet/bookcase I built for the kitchen.
>>>
>>> "Ideal for interior doors, trim, cabinets, walls, and ceilings. For
>>> primed or previously painted wallboard, plaster, masonry, wood and
>>> metal."**
>>>
>>> However...
>>>
>>> "Depending on weather and drying conditions, it could take up to 30 days
>>> to reach optimum hardness and final sheen."
>>
>> And why I suggested an oil based paint. They typically are good to go
>> in 24 hours.
>>
>
> Ah, but a question still remains:
>
> Which ends up harder after it's own published curing time? I don't know the
> answer, I just ask the questions. ;-)
>
> In other words, does the Advance paint end up harder and more durable after
> it's 30 day complete cure than the oil paint does after it's 24 hour complete
> cure? Let's not quibble over cure times. Let's wait 6 months and then test
> both paints. I'm pretty sure that they would both be 100% cured by then.
>
> If the Advance paint is harder than the oil 6 months down the road, then
> it's the better paint for a "desk/part time workbench". Again, I'm not saying
> that it will be, I'm simply saying that it's not about cure time, it's about
> ultimate hardness/durability.
>
I use Sherwin Williams Oil based Alkyd paint on all of my wife's
quilting studio furniture, 7 separate pieces. Nothing sticks to it and
the surface is hard. She regularly swaps out sewing machines from her
8' sewing table with no stick spots or marks left in the paint surface.
If there is a harder drying surface, she/we don't need it. And
seriously who wants to wait 30 days or 6 months to use the surface? We
actually wait 3~4 days to place the sewing machines and fabrics on the
surfaces but we can easily handle the painted surfaces 24 hours after
application.
On 1/24/2019 8:30 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 1/24/2019 9:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
>> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
>> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
>> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
>> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
>> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
>> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
>> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
>> a wall.
>
> Is it possible that the wood under the paint is something really nice?
> If so, I'd strip it and polyurethane it. If you want paint, a good
> enamel should do.
>
> Going back 30 years or more, it was common for people to "antique"
> furniture by painting it with a kit. Some nice wood got hidden for the
> sake of some trendy style.
This desk was built in Vietnam for Pottery Barn Kids. I doubt
if it is all that wonderful. My first thought was High Density
Fiberboard, although the drawers look kind of like wood.
Bill
On 1/25/2019 5:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 12:07:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
>>> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
>>> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
>>> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
>>> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
>>> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
>>> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
>>> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
>>> a wall.
>>>
>>> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
>>> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
>>> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
>>> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
>>> 4 Prime it
>>> 5 Sand
>>> 6 Tack Cloth
>>> 7 Paint 2 coats.
>>> 8 let dry thoroughly
>>>
>>> Any suggestions?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bill
>>
>>
>> so that objects will not stick to the surface I would advise to avoid
>> latex type paints. I would go with an Alkaid Oil based paint.
>
> The Benjamin Moore Advance paint may fit the need without the oil paint
> clean up.
>
> "A premium quality, waterborne alkyd enamel that delivers the desired
> flow and leveling characteristics of conventional alkyd paint. It
> provides a tough, satin finish that stands up to repeated washing.
> It is easy to apply, resists spattering and cleans up with soap and
> water."
>
> I used it on the cabinet/bookcase I built for the kitchen.
>
> "Ideal for interior doors, trim, cabinets, walls, and ceilings. For
> primed or previously painted wallboard, plaster, masonry, wood and
> metal."**
>
> However...
>
> "Depending on weather and drying conditions, it could take up to 30 days
> to reach optimum hardness and final sheen."
>
> Because of other things I was doing in the kitchen and then a 2 week
> vacation, I was actually able to let my project cure for the full 30 days
> before use.
>
> **I'm not sure about that "Ideal for...walls and ceilings" claim. Even my
> Benjamin Moore dealer was hesitant. When I went to buy the paint for the
> kitchen walls, she suggested the Aura line instead of the Advance. She said
> it can be very hard to prevent sags with the Advance line. It is kind of
> thick.
>
> The Aura is very quick drying. Under the proper conditions you can recoat in
> 1 hour. I actually enjoyed painting with it. Did the whole kitchen in one day.
>
I found a review of the Aura paint. The reviewer apparently had some
of the same problems. He suggested General Finishes paint. It is
available here in Tulsa at Woodcraft.
Bill
On 1/25/2019 10:07 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 9:34:38 PM UTC-5, Bill Gill wrote:
>> On 1/25/2019 5:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 12:07:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
>>>>> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
>>>>> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
>>>>> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
>>>>> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
>>>>> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
>>>>> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
>>>>> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
>>>>> a wall.
>>>>>
>>>>> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
>>>>> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
>>>>> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
>>>>> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
>>>>> 4 Prime it
>>>>> 5 Sand
>>>>> 6 Tack Cloth
>>>>> 7 Paint 2 coats.
>>>>> 8 let dry thoroughly
>>>>>
>>>>> Any suggestions?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>> Bill
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> so that objects will not stick to the surface I would advise to avoid
>>>> latex type paints. I would go with an Alkaid Oil based paint.
>>>
>>> The Benjamin Moore Advance paint may fit the need without the oil paint
>>> clean up.
>>>
>>> "A premium quality, waterborne alkyd enamel that delivers the desired
>>> flow and leveling characteristics of conventional alkyd paint. It
>>> provides a tough, satin finish that stands up to repeated washing.
>>> It is easy to apply, resists spattering and cleans up with soap and
>>> water."
>>>
>>> I used it on the cabinet/bookcase I built for the kitchen.
>>>
>>> "Ideal for interior doors, trim, cabinets, walls, and ceilings. For
>>> primed or previously painted wallboard, plaster, masonry, wood and
>>> metal."**
>>>
>>> However...
>>>
>>> "Depending on weather and drying conditions, it could take up to 30 days
>>> to reach optimum hardness and final sheen."
>>>
>>> Because of other things I was doing in the kitchen and then a 2 week
>>> vacation, I was actually able to let my project cure for the full 30 days
>>> before use.
>>>
>>> **I'm not sure about that "Ideal for...walls and ceilings" claim. Even my
>>> Benjamin Moore dealer was hesitant. When I went to buy the paint for the
>>> kitchen walls, she suggested the Aura line instead of the Advance. She said
>>> it can be very hard to prevent sags with the Advance line. It is kind of
>>> thick.
>>>
>>> The Aura is very quick drying. Under the proper conditions you can recoat in
>>> 1 hour. I actually enjoyed painting with it. Did the whole kitchen in one day.
>>>
>> I found a review of the Aura paint. The reviewer apparently had some
>> of the same problems. He suggested General Finishes paint. It is
>> available here in Tulsa at Woodcraft.
>>
>> Bill
>
> I'm not sure what you are talking about.
>
> I posted nothing related to "problems" with the Aura paint.
>
> In fact, my exact words were: "I actually enjoyed painting with it."
>
My bad. I meant the Advance.
Bill
On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
> a wall.
>
> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
> 4 Prime it
> 5 Sand
> 6 Tack Cloth
> 7 Paint 2 coats.
> 8 let dry thoroughly
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Bill
Thanks for the input. Now I just have to choose my paint and
get to work.
Bill
On 1/30/19 10:53 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 1/29/2019 5:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 12:05:59 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>> On 1/25/2019 5:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 12:07:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
>>>>>> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
>>>>>> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
>>>>>> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
>>>>>> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
>>>>>> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
>>>>>> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
>>>>>> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
>>>>>> a wall.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
>>>>>> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
>>>>>> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
>>>>>> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
>>>>>> 4 Prime it
>>>>>> 5 Sand
>>>>>> 6 Tack Cloth
>>>>>> 7 Paint 2 coats.
>>>>>> 8 let dry thoroughly
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any suggestions?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>> Bill
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> so that objects will not stick to the surface I would advise to avoid
>>>>> latex type paints. I would go with an Alkaid Oil based paint.
>>>>
>>>> The Benjamin Moore Advance paint may fit the need without the oil paint
>>>> clean up.
>>>>
>>>> "A premium quality, waterborne alkyd enamel that delivers the
>>>> desired
>>>> flow and leveling characteristics of conventional alkyd paint. It
>>>> provides a tough, satin finish that stands up to repeated
>>>> washing.
>>>> It is easy to apply, resists spattering and cleans up with soap
>>>> and
>>>> water."
>>>>
>>>> I used it on the cabinet/bookcase I built for the kitchen.
>>>>
>>>> "Ideal for interior doors, trim, cabinets, walls, and ceilings.
>>>> For
>>>> primed or previously painted wallboard, plaster, masonry, wood and
>>>> metal."**
>>>>
>>>> However...
>>>>
>>>> "Depending on weather and drying conditions, it could take up to 30
>>>> days
>>>> to reach optimum hardness and final sheen."
>>>
>>> And why I suggested an oil based paint. They typically are good to go
>>> in 24 hours.
>>>
>>
>> Ah, but a question still remains:
>>
>> Which ends up harder after it's own published curing time? I don't
>> know the
>> answer, I just ask the questions. ;-)
>>
>> In other words, does the Advance paint end up harder and more durable
>> after
>> it's 30 day complete cure than the oil paint does after it's 24 hour
>> complete
>> cure? Let's not quibble over cure times. Let's wait 6 months and then
>> test
>> both paints. I'm pretty sure that they would both be 100% cured by then.
>>
>> If the Advance paint is harder than the oil 6 months down the road, then
>> it's the better paint for a "desk/part time workbench". Again, I'm not
>> saying
>> that it will be, I'm simply saying that it's not about cure time, it's
>> about
>> ultimate hardness/durability.
>>
>
> I use Sherwin Williams Oil based Alkyd paint on all of my wife's
> quilting studio furniture, 7 separate pieces. Nothing sticks to it and
> the surface is hard. She regularly swaps out sewing machines from her
> 8' sewing table with no stick spots or marks left in the paint surface.
> If there is a harder drying surface, she/we don't need it. And
> seriously who wants to wait 30 days or 6 months to use the surface? We
> actually wait 3~4 days to place the sewing machines and fabrics on the
> surfaces but we can easily handle the painted surfaces 24 hours after
> application.
Weren't you the guy who swore by conversion varnish for painting stuff
that needs a hard, non-tacky finish.
I was researching some cabinet door/drawer providers and they seem to
all use a conversion varnish as a top coat.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 1/31/19 8:49 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 1/30/2019 6:14 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 1/30/19 10:53 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 1/29/2019 5:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 12:05:59 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 1/25/2019 5:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 12:07:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>> On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
>>>>>>>> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
>>>>>>>> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
>>>>>>>> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
>>>>>>>> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
>>>>>>>> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
>>>>>>>> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
>>>>>>>> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
>>>>>>>> a wall.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
>>>>>>>> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
>>>>>>>> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
>>>>>>>> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
>>>>>>>> 4 Prime it
>>>>>>>> 5 Sand
>>>>>>>> 6 Tack Cloth
>>>>>>>> 7 Paint 2 coats.
>>>>>>>> 8 let dry thoroughly
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Any suggestions?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>>>> Bill
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> so that objects will not stick to the surface I would advise to
>>>>>>> avoid
>>>>>>> latex type paints. I would go with an Alkaid Oil based paint.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The Benjamin Moore Advance paint may fit the need without the oil
>>>>>> paint
>>>>>> clean up.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "A premium quality, waterborne alkyd enamel that delivers the
>>>>>> desired
>>>>>> flow and leveling characteristics of conventional alkyd
>>>>>> paint. It
>>>>>> provides a tough, satin finish that stands up to repeated
>>>>>> washing.
>>>>>> It is easy to apply, resists spattering and cleans up with
>>>>>> soap and
>>>>>> water."
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I used it on the cabinet/bookcase I built for the kitchen.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Ideal for interior doors, trim, cabinets, walls, and
>>>>>> ceilings. For
>>>>>> primed or previously painted wallboard, plaster, masonry,
>>>>>> wood and
>>>>>> metal."**
>>>>>>
>>>>>> However...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Depending on weather and drying conditions, it could take up to
>>>>>> 30 days
>>>>>> to reach optimum hardness and final sheen."
>>>>>
>>>>> And why I suggested an oil based paint. They typically are good to go
>>>>> in 24 hours.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ah, but a question still remains:
>>>>
>>>> Which ends up harder after it's own published curing time? I don't
>>>> know the
>>>> answer, I just ask the questions. ;-)
>>>>
>>>> In other words, does the Advance paint end up harder and more
>>>> durable after
>>>> it's 30 day complete cure than the oil paint does after it's 24 hour
>>>> complete
>>>> cure? Let's not quibble over cure times. Let's wait 6 months and
>>>> then test
>>>> both paints. I'm pretty sure that they would both be 100% cured by
>>>> then.
>>>>
>>>> If the Advance paint is harder than the oil 6 months down the road,
>>>> then
>>>> it's the better paint for a "desk/part time workbench". Again, I'm
>>>> not saying
>>>> that it will be, I'm simply saying that it's not about cure time,
>>>> it's about
>>>> ultimate hardness/durability.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I use Sherwin Williams Oil based Alkyd paint on all of my wife's
>>> quilting studio furniture, 7 separate pieces. Nothing sticks to it
>>> and the surface is hard. She regularly swaps out sewing machines
>>> from her 8' sewing table with no stick spots or marks left in the
>>> paint surface. If there is a harder drying surface, she/we don't need
>>> it. And seriously who wants to wait 30 days or 6 months to use the
>>> surface? We actually wait 3~4 days to place the sewing machines and
>>> fabrics on the surfaces but we can easily handle the painted surfaces
>>> 24 hours after application.
>>
>> Weren't you the guy who swore by conversion varnish for painting stuff
>> that needs a hard, non-tacky finish.
>> I was researching some cabinet door/drawer providers and they seem to
>> all use a conversion varnish as a top coat.
>>
>>
>
> Not me. Although I have used a gel varnish on top of flat paints.
I bet it was Robert.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On Tue, 29 Jan 2019 11:05:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 1/25/2019 5:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 12:07:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>> On 1/24/2019 8:23 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
>>>> I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
>>>> But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
>>>> need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
>>>> because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
>>>> workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
>>>> mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
>>>> is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
>>>> a wall.
>>>>
>>>> I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
>>>> 1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
>>>> 2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
>>>> 3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
>>>> 4 Prime it
>>>> 5 Sand
>>>> 6 Tack Cloth
>>>> 7 Paint 2 coats.
>>>> 8 let dry thoroughly
>>>>
>>>> Any suggestions?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Bill
>>>
>>>
>>> so that objects will not stick to the surface I would advise to avoid
>>> latex type paints. I would go with an Alkaid Oil based paint.
>>
>> The Benjamin Moore Advance paint may fit the need without the oil paint
>> clean up.
>>
>> "A premium quality, waterborne alkyd enamel that delivers the desired
>> flow and leveling characteristics of conventional alkyd paint. It
>> provides a tough, satin finish that stands up to repeated washing.
>> It is easy to apply, resists spattering and cleans up with soap and
>> water."
>>
>> I used it on the cabinet/bookcase I built for the kitchen.
>>
>> "Ideal for interior doors, trim, cabinets, walls, and ceilings. For
>> primed or previously painted wallboard, plaster, masonry, wood and
>> metal."**
>>
>> However...
>>
>> "Depending on weather and drying conditions, it could take up to 30 days
>> to reach optimum hardness and final sheen."
>
>And why I suggested an oil based paint. They typically are good to go
>in 24 hours.
>
>As far as clean up goes. I would much rather clean up with thinner than
>soap and water. Thinner cuts oil based paint almost instantly. Soap
>and water on water based paint takes quite a while at the faucet. I
>throw rollers away for both paints.
A little dish soap, a bucket of water, and an hour or three soaking,
make latex paint pretty much disappear from brushes or rollers. A
quick rinse and an overnight dry an they're good to go again.
I agree, though, this isn't a good application for latex paint. Gotta
be careful to use a non-blocking paint, in any case.