I have a chance of picking up a used Delta UniSaw from a local millwork
shop that is closing one of their locations. It is probably about 10 to
15 years old and it looks well cared for. It has a UniFence and an
extension table.
What kind of things should I be looking out for on a machine like this
that has been used commercially. I will not have the opportunity to
dismantle it to check deeply. I only have simple measuring tools,
machinist squares, a dial indicator, etc - nothing fancy. Can anyone
reccomend a simple check-out routine that will give me an idea if the
machine is in good shape or not? How do I find out the year it was
manufactured?
The person in charge of liquidating the tools does not know the
electrical specs. How do I tell if it is 110 or 220 and single phase
vs. 3 phase?
Thanks in advance,
Chuck
"Chuck" wrote in message
> Can anyone
> reccomend a simple check-out routine that will give me an idea if the
> machine is in good shape or not?
Crank it up and cut some wood with it ... nothing simpler.
If the price is anywhere reasonable, buy it before someone else does ... my
bet is that you'll kick yourself in the butt later if you pass it up.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/07/05
On 24 Aug 2005 12:37:15 -0700, "Chuck" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a chance of picking up a used Delta UniSaw from a local millwork
>shop that is closing one of their locations. It is probably about 10 to
>15 years old and it looks well cared for. It has a UniFence and an
>extension table.
>
>What kind of things should I be looking out for on a machine like this
>that has been used commercially. I will not have the opportunity to
>dismantle it to check deeply. I only have simple measuring tools,
>machinist squares, a dial indicator, etc - nothing fancy. Can anyone
>reccomend a simple check-out routine that will give me an idea if the
>machine is in good shape or not?
Listen for arbor bearing noise, realizing that they can be replaced.
Indicate on the arbor face and look for excessive runnout. should be
less than .0005
Crank through the full tilt and elevation checking for smoothness or
excessive backlash.
Attach your dial indicator to a miter bar (if you can) and run it
through the slot indicating on a good blade outside the tooth area
looking for heel. Should be no more than .005 at 90 and should not
degrade to more than about .020 at 45. This can be adjusted but you
do not want the difference to be more than about .015 or so.
This is not a perfect measurement because a blade is involved. It is
done at the factory with a gage plate attached to the arbor.
Better yet adjust the fence parallel to the miter slot and rip a piece
of hard oak looking for burn
Check table flatness. straight edge and feeler gage. hardest
direction to control is across the insert opening. Look for .010 max
on the table going to .030 max across two wings if you have them.
If the millwork shop was doing good work with it it is probably a
good saw. Takes more than 10-15 years to wear one out.
How do I find out the year it was
>manufactured?
In that time frame (last ten to fifteen years) the first two digits of
the serial number indicates the year. the next is a letter that
indicates the month (A=Jan, B=Feb, etc). If you can't figure it out,
call Delta customer service, they can tell you
>
>The person in charge of liquidating the tools does not know the
>electrical specs. How do I tell if it is 110 or 220 and single phase
>vs. 3 phase?
All Unisaws built in that time frame were at least 220 single phase
Electrical specs should be on the serial plate and the motor plate.
Serial plate on the back right top area.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Chuck