I'm working on a model ship. To do it right, the masts need to be tapered
from the manufacturer's provided 1/4" wood dowels. Measuring the plans, I
get a diameter at the top of ~.160" (more or less, depending on the
thickness of the lines that they use to draw it). I'm assuming that not all
that critical and that anything in that range is okay.
All I've got in the way of stationary power tools are a Radial Arm Saw and a
Bench Drillpress. I managed to kludge something for the foremast (~13"
length) by jacking up the head of the drillpress on the column by ~2" and
clamped a block of plywood with an appropriate hole against the base, then
chucked the dowel in the DP and "turned" it down with coarse sandpaper.
Well, it worked ... sort of ... and I've definitely got something I can use
for the Foremast this way, but the Mainmast has to be 2" longer and I don't
think I can get that length unless I drill a hole in the top of the cabinet
the DP is mounted on, and then I have no way to really support the bottom of
the dowel. And one problem I did have was that the top of the dowel (the
part that I tapered) broke off at one point and I lost whatever length was
hidden in the chuck. While I didn't need that length for the Foremast, I do
for the Mainmast.
SO ... I'm looking for other ideas. One problem I seem to be having is
that the dowel in the chuck works loose and occasionally actually drops out.
Would I be better off if I drove a nail (or screw) into the end of the dowel
and held that in the chuck?
I've thought of actually giving up and buying an inexpensive wood lathe from
HF, but this too long a slender piece to turn horizontally it seems to me.
I suppose intermediate supports would be needed but now we're getting into a
really expensive setup, aren't we?
Another thought was to turn the mast in sections and then glue the sections
together and use putty to smooth the taper. Seems to be a lot more trouble
than it's worth that way.
Suggestions welcome.
TIA
Norm
It was no no big thing recently to "whittle" a .5" square strip of
spruce into a selectively-fitted dowel-pin to hold an old chair's back
together. Whittling done with miniature plane was really pretty
straightforward. If it were desirable, a few seconds in the drill press
with some sandpaper would've made it smooth.
J
I've built a number of model sailing ships over the years. My strategy
has been to clamp one end of the dowel in my bench vise, then reduce
the diameter with a small hand plane (maybe around 3" long -- no idea
where I got it). Then, when the majority of the shaping was done,
simply smooth out with sucessively finer grades of sandpaper on a
sanding block. If you don't like it, simply get some more dowel!
I did find it useful to also use my bench vise as a rest -- just open
it up a crack and set the dowel in it. In this manner, I could handle
the smaller diameter part without bending or cracking the small end of
the mast.
For booms, which are smaller, I just used sandpaper.
Simple solution is better here...
Norm Dresner wrote:
> I'm working on a model ship. To do it right, the masts need to be tapered
> from the manufacturer's provided 1/4" wood dowels. Measuring the plans, I
> get a diameter at the top of ~.160" (more or less, depending on the
> thickness of the lines that they use to draw it). I'm assuming that not all
> that critical and that anything in that range is okay.
>
> All I've got in the way of stationary power tools are a Radial Arm Saw and a
> Bench Drillpress. I managed to kludge something for the foremast (~13"
> length) by jacking up the head of the drillpress on the column by ~2" and
> clamped a block of plywood with an appropriate hole against the base, then
> chucked the dowel in the DP and "turned" it down with coarse sandpaper.
>
> Well, it worked ... sort of ... and I've definitely got something I can use
> for the Foremast this way, but the Mainmast has to be 2" longer and I don't
> think I can get that length unless I drill a hole in the top of the cabinet
> the DP is mounted on, and then I have no way to really support the bottom of
> the dowel. And one problem I did have was that the top of the dowel (the
> part that I tapered) broke off at one point and I lost whatever length was
> hidden in the chuck. While I didn't need that length for the Foremast, I do
> for the Mainmast.
>
> SO ... I'm looking for other ideas. One problem I seem to be having is
> that the dowel in the chuck works loose and occasionally actually drops out.
> Would I be better off if I drove a nail (or screw) into the end of the dowel
> and held that in the chuck?
>
> I've thought of actually giving up and buying an inexpensive wood lathe from
> HF, but this too long a slender piece to turn horizontally it seems to me.
> I suppose intermediate supports would be needed but now we're getting into a
> really expensive setup, aren't we?
I'm often forced/delighted to find myself in situations without the
proper tools. Jury-rigging a solution is half of the fun. It seems to
me that you have just such an opportunity.
In a similar situation I've clamped a variable speed corded drill in a
vise and clamped a block of wood with a screw poked though it at the
other end to act as a tailstock. The slower speed rotation would be
all that you'd need considering that you don't have to take off that
much material and higher speeds would create problems with vibration.
Your piece, being long, thin and flexible, would probably benefit from
an intermediate support to minimize vibration and the chance of
breakage.
R
Norm Dresner wrote:
> I'm working on a model ship. To do it right, the masts need to be tapered
> from the manufacturer's provided 1/4" wood dowels. Measuring the plans, I
> get a diameter at the top of ~.160" (more or less, depending on the
> thickness of the lines that they use to draw it). I'm assuming that not all
> that critical and that anything in that range is okay.
>
> All I've got in the way of stationary power tools are a Radial Arm Saw and a
> Bench Drillpress. I managed to kludge something for the foremast (~13"
> length) by jacking up the head of the drillpress on the column by ~2" and
> clamped a block of plywood with an appropriate hole against the base, then
> chucked the dowel in the DP and "turned" it down with coarse sandpaper.
>
> Well, it worked ... sort of ... and I've definitely got something I can use
> for the Foremast this way, but the Mainmast has to be 2" longer and I don't
> think I can get that length unless I drill a hole in the top of the cabinet
> the DP is mounted on, and then I have no way to really support the bottom of
> the dowel. And one problem I did have was that the top of the dowel (the
> part that I tapered) broke off at one point and I lost whatever length was
> hidden in the chuck. While I didn't need that length for the Foremast, I do
> for the Mainmast.
>
> SO ... I'm looking for other ideas. One problem I seem to be having is
> that the dowel in the chuck works loose and occasionally actually drops out.
> Would I be better off if I drove a nail (or screw) into the end of the dowel
> and held that in the chuck?
>
> I've thought of actually giving up and buying an inexpensive wood lathe from
> HF, but this too long a slender piece to turn horizontally it seems to me.
> I suppose intermediate supports would be needed but now we're getting into a
> really expensive setup, aren't we?
>
> Another thought was to turn the mast in sections and then glue the sections
> together and use putty to smooth the taper. Seems to be a lot more trouble
> than it's worth that way.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
>
> TIA
> Norm
>
Have you tried asking this question in a forum devoted to modeling? The
folks
at www.drydockmodels.com are friendly and represent all levels of
expertise. Also, the model expo site has manuals for Model Shipways
kits on line in pdf forum. They have some good suggestions on how to
taper a mast but aimed at use of hand tools.
If you can get access to someone's lathe, look for one with a chuck
where the headstock shaft is hollow. This would let you extend the
dowel a small amount at a time and let you shape it near where it is
supported.
John
I think you can come up with a way to use your drill press. One issue
is keeping the dowel from whipping and you can do that by supporting
the rod with one hand. The bottom end can be supported with a
sharpened nail. I have another idea but that involves a router, hand
drill, and custom-made bed from scrap wood (This method will produce
many tapers all the same size). You don't need to buy a lathe.
On Tue, 02 May 2006 15:40:25 GMT, "Norm Dresner" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm working on a model ship. To do it right, the masts need to be tapered
>from the manufacturer's provided 1/4" wood dowels. Measuring the plans, I
>get a diameter at the top of ~.160" (more or less, depending on the
>thickness of the lines that they use to draw it). I'm assuming that not all
>that critical and that anything in that range is okay.
>
>All I've got in the way of stationary power tools are a Radial Arm Saw and a
>Bench Drillpress. I managed to kludge something for the foremast (~13"
>length) by jacking up the head of the drillpress on the column by ~2" and
>clamped a block of plywood with an appropriate hole against the base, then
>chucked the dowel in the DP and "turned" it down with coarse sandpaper.
>
>Well, it worked ... sort of ... and I've definitely got something I can use
>for the Foremast this way, but the Mainmast has to be 2" longer and I don't
>think I can get that length unless I drill a hole in the top of the cabinet
>the DP is mounted on, and then I have no way to really support the bottom of
>the dowel. And one problem I did have was that the top of the dowel (the
>part that I tapered) broke off at one point and I lost whatever length was
>hidden in the chuck. While I didn't need that length for the Foremast, I do
>for the Mainmast.
>
>SO ... I'm looking for other ideas. One problem I seem to be having is
>that the dowel in the chuck works loose and occasionally actually drops out.
>Would I be better off if I drove a nail (or screw) into the end of the dowel
>and held that in the chuck?
>
>I've thought of actually giving up and buying an inexpensive wood lathe from
>HF, but this too long a slender piece to turn horizontally it seems to me.
>I suppose intermediate supports would be needed but now we're getting into a
>really expensive setup, aren't we?
>
>Another thought was to turn the mast in sections and then glue the sections
>together and use putty to smooth the taper. Seems to be a lot more trouble
>than it's worth that way.
>
>Suggestions welcome.
>
>TIA
> Norm
Well, you sure got some answers!
How about chucking the dowel in a hand drill held in a vise? Then you can
go horizontal and length won't be a problem. You could also clamp/tack
something like a piece of 2X6 standing on the bench for a steadyrest.
To stay vertical, you could turn your DP base so the chuck could hang over
the bench.
Wilson
"Norm Dresner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm working on a model ship. To do it right, the masts need to be tapered
> from the manufacturer's provided 1/4" wood dowels. Measuring the plans, I
> get a diameter at the top of ~.160" (more or less, depending on the
> thickness of the lines that they use to draw it). I'm assuming that not
> all
> that critical and that anything in that range is okay.
>
> All I've got in the way of stationary power tools are a Radial Arm Saw and
> a
> Bench Drillpress. I managed to kludge something for the foremast (~13"
> length) by jacking up the head of the drillpress on the column by ~2" and
> clamped a block of plywood with an appropriate hole against the base, then
> chucked the dowel in the DP and "turned" it down with coarse sandpaper.
>
> Well, it worked ... sort of ... and I've definitely got something I can
> use
> for the Foremast this way, but the Mainmast has to be 2" longer and I
> don't
> think I can get that length unless I drill a hole in the top of the
> cabinet
> the DP is mounted on, and then I have no way to really support the bottom
> of
> the dowel. And one problem I did have was that the top of the dowel (the
> part that I tapered) broke off at one point and I lost whatever length was
> hidden in the chuck. While I didn't need that length for the Foremast, I
> do
> for the Mainmast.
>
> SO ... I'm looking for other ideas. One problem I seem to be having is
> that the dowel in the chuck works loose and occasionally actually drops
> out.
> Would I be better off if I drove a nail (or screw) into the end of the
> dowel
> and held that in the chuck?
>
> I've thought of actually giving up and buying an inexpensive wood lathe
> from
> HF, but this too long a slender piece to turn horizontally it seems to me.
> I suppose intermediate supports would be needed but now we're getting into
> a
> really expensive setup, aren't we?
>
> Another thought was to turn the mast in sections and then glue the
> sections
> together and use putty to smooth the taper. Seems to be a lot more
> trouble
> than it's worth that way.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
>
> TIA
> Norm
>
"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
| Well, you sure got some answers!
| How about chucking the dowel in a hand drill held in a vise? Then you can
| go horizontal and length won't be a problem. You could also clamp/tack
| something like a piece of 2X6 standing on the bench for a steadyrest.
| To stay vertical, you could turn your DP base so the chuck could hang over
| the bench.
| Wilson
The dowel is 1/4" diameter and 16" long. Clamping it horizontal and
rotating it rapidly is an invitation to personal injury. This works fine
for a 3-4" piece for a spar, but not a mast.
Norm
Norm Dresner wrote:
> I'm working on a model ship. To do it right, the masts need to be
> tapered from the manufacturer's provided 1/4" wood dowels. Measuring
> the plans, I get a diameter at the top of ~.160" (more or less,
> depending on the thickness of the lines that they use to draw it).
> I'm assuming that not all that critical and that anything in that
> range is okay.
>
> All I've got in the way of stationary power tools are a Radial Arm
> Saw and a Bench Drillpress. I managed to kludge something for the
> foremast (~13" length) by jacking up the head of the drillpress on
> the column by ~2" and clamped a block of plywood with an appropriate
> hole against the base, then chucked the dowel in the DP and "turned"
> it down with coarse sandpaper.
What you need is someway to have *both* the abrasive and work rotating so
you can maintain "round". I'd probably put a sanding drum on the DP, chuck
the dowel in a portable drill and have at it.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
I solved the problem of the top cracking off and getting loose in the chuck
by creating a brass collar out of a piece of tubing. It's quite sold now.
I also discovered the trick of stabalizing the bottom of the dowel by using
my second hand -- the one not holding the sandpaper and it's going much
easier for the Mainmast.
Norm
A spokeshave is the tool you want. Quick, simple, only needs a little
practice once its set up. They're not that expensive either..
--JD
"John" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Norm Dresner wrote:
>> I'm working on a model ship. To do it right, the masts need to be
>> tapered from the manufacturer's provided 1/4" wood dowels. Measuring the
>> plans, I get a diameter at the top of ~.160" (more or less, depending on
>> the thickness of the lines that they use to draw it). I'm assuming that
>> not all that critical and that anything in that range is okay.
>>
>> All I've got in the way of stationary power tools are a Radial Arm Saw
>> and a Bench Drillpress. I managed to kludge something for the foremast
>> (~13" length) by jacking up the head of the drillpress on the column by
>> ~2" and clamped a block of plywood with an appropriate hole against the
>> base, then chucked the dowel in the DP and "turned" it down with coarse
>> sandpaper.
>>
>> Well, it worked ... sort of ... and I've definitely got something I can
>> use for the Foremast this way, but the Mainmast has to be 2" longer and I
>> don't think I can get that length unless I drill a hole in the top of the
>> cabinet the DP is mounted on, and then I have no way to really support
>> the bottom of the dowel. And one problem I did have was that the top of
>> the dowel (the part that I tapered) broke off at one point and I lost
>> whatever length was hidden in the chuck. While I didn't need that length
>> for the Foremast, I do for the Mainmast.
>>
>> SO ... I'm looking for other ideas. One problem I seem to be having is
>> that the dowel in the chuck works loose and occasionally actually drops
>> out. Would I be better off if I drove a nail (or screw) into the end of
>> the dowel and held that in the chuck?
>>
>> I've thought of actually giving up and buying an inexpensive wood lathe
>> from HF, but this too long a slender piece to turn horizontally it seems
>> to me. I suppose intermediate supports would be needed but now we're
>> getting into a really expensive setup, aren't we?
>>
>> Another thought was to turn the mast in sections and then glue the
>> sections together and use putty to smooth the taper. Seems to be a lot
>> more trouble than it's worth that way.
>>
>> Suggestions welcome.
>>
>> TIA
>> Norm
> Have you tried asking this question in a forum devoted to modeling? The
> folks
> at www.drydockmodels.com are friendly and represent all levels of
> expertise. Also, the model expo site has manuals for Model Shipways kits
> on line in pdf forum. They have some good suggestions on how to taper a
> mast but aimed at use of hand tools.
> If you can get access to someone's lathe, look for one with a chuck where
> the headstock shaft is hollow. This would let you extend the dowel a
> small amount at a time and let you shape it near where it is supported.
> John
>
On Tue, 02 May 2006 15:40:25 GMT, "Norm Dresner" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm working on a model ship. To do it right, the masts need to be tapered
Only tool I know that can do this is a "trapping plane", a sort of
variable-diameter, squeeze-controlled rounder. You can probably make
one.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
| It was no no big thing recently to "whittle" a .5" square strip of
| spruce into a selectively-fitted dowel-pin to hold an old chair's back
| together. Whittling done with miniature plane was really pretty
| straightforward. If it were desirable, a few seconds in the drill press
| with some sandpaper would've made it smooth.
|
| J
Honestly, you're probably right, but since I have a problem with the nerves
in my hands I try to do as little wrist-twisting work as I can get away
with. If everything else were equal, I'd certainly have done it with the
plane as the instructions recommend, but holding a piece of coarse sandpaper
against the rotating dowel is much less hand work than either a plane or a
knife.
Thanks for the info.
Norm