This time of year I need let the cars back into my workshop/garage. My
table saw and jointer and other equipment get rolled to the side and
covered, except on weekends. What do you suggest I use to try and prevent
rust from moisture condensation? I was hoping to find something that would
not cause streaking of stain, if oil gets transferred to wood that I will
then pass through the machines. Also I don't like to use wax that has to be
laboriously scraped off. Any ideas? I read about leaving a little oil in an
old tuna can, to evaporate and condense on the steel. With our climate, the
cars bring in snow on the tires, and puddles of water sit on the shop floor
for hours.
Dave
On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 07:41:21 GMT, "Dave"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> This time of year I need let the cars back into my workshop/garage. My
>table saw and jointer and other equipment get rolled to the side and
>covered, except on weekends. What do you suggest I use to try and prevent
>rust from moisture condensation? I was hoping to find something that would
>not cause streaking of stain, if oil gets transferred to wood that I will
>then pass through the machines. Also I don't like to use wax that has to be
>laboriously scraped off. Any ideas? I read about leaving a little oil in an
>old tuna can, to evaporate and condense on the steel. With our climate, the
>cars bring in snow on the tires, and puddles of water sit on the shop floor
>for hours.
>
>Dave
>
>
Place a 3W light bulb under the table. The slightly higher
temperature will keep moisture away. You could also dust the top with
chalk (calcium carbonate).
Dave asks:
> This time of year I need let the cars back into my workshop/garage. My
>table saw and jointer and other equipment get rolled to the side and
>covered, except on weekends. What do you suggest I use to try and prevent
>rust from moisture condensation? I was hoping to find something that would
>not cause streaking of stain, if oil gets transferred to wood that I will
>then pass through the machines. Also I don't like to use wax that has to be
>laboriously scraped off. Any ideas? I read about leaving a little oil in an
>old tuna can, to evaporate and condense on the steel. With our climate, the
>cars bring in snow on the tires, and puddles of water sit on the shop floor
>for hours.
Wax is usually it. I use Boeshield T9 most of the time, but with a recent table
saw I made my own wax, harder than Johnson's even, and power buffed the top
using a cordless buffer. It has surprised me. It is still slick. Still has the
original shine.
You do not need to remove a properly done wax job on cast iron surfaces. But
you cannot just apply a single coat and walk away. Whether you use floor wax
(make sure it is NOT the anti-slip kind) or Boeshield or another, you have to
buff. And I prefer three coats to one.
Charlie Self
"Man is the only animal that blushes. Or needs to." Mark Twain
Dave wrote:
> then pass through the machines. Also I don't like to use wax that has to
> be laboriously scraped off. Any ideas? I read about leaving a little oil
Wax doesn't have to be scraped off if you apply and buff it correctly.
I've said lotsa times, and will say once more, my anti-rust system is
Johnson's paste wax in combination with a cheap box fan aimed in the
general direction of the most rustables. I forget where this idea came
from originally, but I finally tried it, and hoo boy does it work great.
So far my new aircraft carrier sized hunk o' cast iron still looks just
like it did when I got the last of the cosmoline off of it about a year
ago. My chisels and sundry other rustables are all nearly perfect too,
though I did get a few dots of rust cropping up on the underside of two
plane irons, and one frog. Presumably where the wax had worn through and
the air wasn't moving fast enough to discourage condensation.
The shop is small, not climate controlled, and the door is often leaky in
rain, which is comparable to your tire drippage scenario.
Assuming you can actually purchase a fan in Kanukistan of course. :)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:BOwvd.482307$Pl.150479@pd7tw1no...
>
What do you suggest I use to try and prevent
> rust from moisture condensation?
Boeshield T-9 or Top Cote, available at all good woodworking supply stores
and Lee Valley. Repeat every month or so to be sure.
Dave,
Others have mentioned what the products of choice are for rust prevention of
the work areas. Don't forget to spray and/or apply the stuff to the bottom
edges and underneath parts that are unfinished and subject to moisture also.
For places that are not work surfaces, I uses an industrial Teflon spray
($6/can) that is used for coating chains and metal surfaces against salt
water. With the garage floor being wet and if in the northeast, salt usually
is part of the mix so everyday - squeegee the floor.
Bob S.
Another item is the cover you place over the equipment. Don't use plastic
or any other material that can't breathe. I purchased some heavy cotton
drop cloths from HD a couple of years back and cut them to the size need.
You can also purchase equipment covers.
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:BOwvd.482307$Pl.150479@pd7tw1no...
> This time of year I need let the cars back into my workshop/garage. My
> table saw and jointer and other equipment get rolled to the side and
> covered, except on weekends. What do you suggest I use to try and prevent
> rust from moisture condensation? I was hoping to find something that would
> not cause streaking of stain, if oil gets transferred to wood that I will
> then pass through the machines. Also I don't like to use wax that has to
be
> laboriously scraped off. Any ideas? I read about leaving a little oil in
an
> old tuna can, to evaporate and condense on the steel. With our climate,
the
> cars bring in snow on the tires, and puddles of water sit on the shop
floor
> for hours.
>
> Dave
>
>
>