As long as we're on the RAS subject, I've recently acquired an old
Craftsman just like this one
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/ras.html# that needs some work.
The biggest problem I'm having is that the carriage rocks laterally
quite a bit. After taking it apart, I noticed that there is quite a
bit of play between the carriage bearings and the arm rails. I can't
imagine how this could have happened, though. The bearings are not
adjustable and are mounted directly into a cast housing for the
carriage, so they really couldn't have moved out over time. The rails
don't present any significant wear.... definalty not enough to produce
the amount of play there is. The only thing I can think to do is to
take the rails off and make some kind of curved washers to put behind
them to bring them out.
Has anyone addressed a similar problem with this saw?
Thanks,
Moore
I'll take another look again tonight. It looked like all 4 of the
bearings were non-eccentric, but it sure makes sense that there should
be eccentric bearings on at least one side.
Thanks for the info
Moore
"ks" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<cb3pd.413$VL6.196@clgrps13>...
> Looks similar to my RAS. If it is, the adjustable rollers are on the left
> side of the carriage. The two bolts on that side are eccentric.
>
> "moore" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > As long as we're on the RAS subject, I've recently acquired an old
> > Craftsman just like this one
> > http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/ras.html# that needs some work.
> > The biggest problem I'm having is that the carriage rocks laterally
> > quite a bit. After taking it apart, I noticed that there is quite a
> > bit of play between the carriage bearings and the arm rails. I can't
> > imagine how this could have happened, though. The bearings are not
> > adjustable and are mounted directly into a cast housing for the
> > carriage, so they really couldn't have moved out over time. The rails
> > don't present any significant wear.... definalty not enough to produce
> > the amount of play there is. The only thing I can think to do is to
> > take the rails off and make some kind of curved washers to put behind
> > them to bring them out.
> >
> > Has anyone addressed a similar problem with this saw?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Moore
Looks similar to my RAS. If it is, the adjustable rollers are on the left
side of the carriage. The two bolts on that side are eccentric.
"moore" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> As long as we're on the RAS subject, I've recently acquired an old
> Craftsman just like this one
> http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/ras.html# that needs some work.
> The biggest problem I'm having is that the carriage rocks laterally
> quite a bit. After taking it apart, I noticed that there is quite a
> bit of play between the carriage bearings and the arm rails. I can't
> imagine how this could have happened, though. The bearings are not
> adjustable and are mounted directly into a cast housing for the
> carriage, so they really couldn't have moved out over time. The rails
> don't present any significant wear.... definalty not enough to produce
> the amount of play there is. The only thing I can think to do is to
> take the rails off and make some kind of curved washers to put behind
> them to bring them out.
>
> Has anyone addressed a similar problem with this saw?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Moore
Dustmaker wrote:
> Another possibility is there is an adjustment for the "riding bearing" on
> a
> center track. Look just above the handle to see if there is an adjusting
> screw at that point.
>
> If the saw was made by Emerson Electric, you may be eligible for a safety
> upgrade. They will supply you with parts and instructions for rebuilding
> the head assembly at no charge. I don't know the website for the
> instructions, but you should be able to Google for it.
Huh? What do you mean "rebuilding the head assembly"? The safety upgrade
consists of a new guard, a new handle, and a new table. Nothing has to be
"rebuilt" unless you count removing and replacing two Allen screws to
change out the handle "rebuilding".
And there is nothing in the recall kit that would have any effect on the
adustment which is giving him difficulty.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Another possibility is there is an adjustment for the "riding bearing" on a
center track. Look just above the handle to see if there is an adjusting
screw at that point.
If the saw was made by Emerson Electric, you may be eligible for a safety
upgrade. They will supply you with parts and instructions for rebuilding
the head assembly at no charge. I don't know the website for the
instructions, but you should be able to Google for it.
On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 08:46:26 -0800, moore wrote:
> As long as we're on the RAS subject, I've recently acquired an old
> Craftsman just like this one
> http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/ras.html# that needs some work. The
> biggest problem I'm having is that the carriage rocks laterally quite a
> bit. After taking it apart, I noticed that there is quite a bit of play
> between the carriage bearings and the arm rails. I can't imagine how this
> could have happened, though. The bearings are not adjustable and are
> mounted directly into a cast housing for the carriage, so they really
> couldn't have moved out over time. The rails don't present any
> significant wear.... definalty not enough to produce the amount of play
> there is. The only thing I can think to do is to take the rails off and
> make some kind of curved washers to put behind them to bring them out.
>
> Has anyone addressed a similar problem with this saw?
On a Searz RAS, the roller bearings are adjustable on the left hand side.
With the left hand cover removed, the bearings have a locking nut under
them and a cam type bolt through them that allows them to be adjusted.
You need to get the amnual for this or similar or preeferrably Jon Eakes
book on setting up and tuning the RAS:
<http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3&nPrdImageID=&CatID=3>
When adjusted properly, there should be no movement vertically or side to
side and the motor should move smothly but with some even resistance along
the entire length of the track.
-Doug
On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 23:27:03 +0000, Unisaw A100 wrote:
> And are not the rods down the inside of the arm also movable/loosen and
> turn a couple few degree to make a new bearing surface or am I mixed up
> with the Delta?
If they're moveable on the Searz, it'd hafta be by 180 degrees as they're
attached with a screw on each end into the arm casting.
-Doug
On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 20:14:47 -0800, moore wrote:
> You guys were right on! Turning the top bolt on the left bearings brought
> it right in. Snug as a bug in a rug!
But, you gotta know *how* snug. If you can put your finger (covered by a
rag) on the bearing and move the carriage without being able to stop the
bearing rotation, you have it right. And you need to set both bearings
with this same resistance. And, you should be able to move the motor the
full length of the arm with a smooth and consistant resistance.
And, you gotta find the lock nut under the bearing (usually) and lock
things down so they don't squirm loose.
-Doug