I purchased the Veritas Basic Bench kit from Lee Valley, which
includes the plans and hardware needed to build a bench that has two
narrow slabs with a tool well in between. It also allows for side
skirts with dog holes so I can clamp along the sides as well as on
top.
Having used benches with tool wells before, I'd like to eliminate that
feature, and instead have a continous slab across the width of the
bench. The original design allows for each slab to expand and
contract to/from the tool well. If I eliminate the well and use a
single slab, how can allow for wood movement and still incorporate the
side skirts?
What I'm thinking of doing is simply attaching the end skirts to the
middle of the slab only, and leaving the side skirts unattached to the
end skirts. Further out towards the edges of the end skirts I'll
drill oversized holes to allow for movement. This way the slab (with
side skirts permanently attached) can expand away from the center.
Assuming the top will be 30" wide, that seasonal moisture content will
fluctuate 8% here in the Northeast, and that I'll be using hard maple,
it looks like the top may expand/contract up to over 3/4"! I suppose
I can account for this in the length of the end skirts, so they don't
push away the ends of the side skirts during the dry periods.
I don't know, I guess I'm just writing this to be sure I understand
the forces involved and that I engineer around them. If anyone has an
understanding of what I'm trying to do, and sees errors in my
reasoning, or better alternatives to my proposed solutions, I welcome
your feedback.
Thanks for reading!
JP
On Jun 21, 11:55 am, Chris Friesen <[email protected]> wrote:
> Jay Pique wrote:
> > What I'm thinking of doing is simply attaching the end skirts to the
> > middle of the slab only, and leaving the side skirts unattached to the
> > end skirts.
>
> Might be better to fasten the end skirts to the side skirt on the front
> of the bench, and let it move at the back. That way you'll always be
> able to clamp a long board along the front of the bench.
>
> Chris
Thanks, Chris and Steve. I believe I'm going to incorporate both
ideas - attaching the skirt at the "front" and the tongue & groove
feature. Buckling was one of my concerns too.
Did either of you use the Veritas Twin Screw vise? That's what I've
purchased, and from what I gather installation can be tricky. I'm
sure I'll have questions!~
JP
On Jun 22, 1:54 am, charlieb <[email protected]> wrote:
> You didn't say if you're going with the Veritas Twin Screw
> on the end. If you do, this might be useful to have a look
> at and maybe study a bit.
>
> http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/DasBench/CBbench25.html
>
> And if you're going to cut dogholes in the inside of the apronhttp://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/DasBench/CBbench30.html
Yes to the VTSV and yes to the dogholes. Thanks for taking the time
to document your process so well. I haven't yet milled the apron
(actually, I haven't even acquired the lumber yet) but when I do I'll
definitely be studying your schematics.
JP
Jay Pique wrote:
> What I'm thinking of doing is simply attaching the end skirts to the
> middle of the slab only, and leaving the side skirts unattached to the
> end skirts.
Might be better to fasten the end skirts to the side skirt on the front
of the bench, and let it move at the back. That way you'll always be
able to clamp a long board along the front of the bench.
Chris
depending on how thick the top's core is, three routed grooves
in the bottom for AllThread may be the answer. You can reinforce
the areas where you routed the groove by gluing on pieces
spanning the groove. With nuts on the ends, in countersunk holes
in the apron, you can tighten and loosen things as need be.
And splines - ply splines - to keep the apron aligned with the
top core.
Oh and dovetails on the aprons. If oriented correctly they
will allow for wood movement while holding where they need
to hold.
Have a look at the illustration at the bottom of this page
http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/DasBench/CBbench28.html
You didn't say if you're going with the Veritas Twin Screw
on the end. If you do, this might be useful to have a look
at and maybe study a bit.
http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/DasBench/CBbench25.html
And if you're going to cut dogholes in the inside of the apron
http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/DasBench/CBbench30.html
charlie b
What you have described is classic breadboard construction.
My bench is also maple with "side skirts" (thicker long edges) and bolted
"endskirts" (breadboard ends). Unlike your plan, mine is hard-fastened at
the front and is "sloppy bolted" in the back so *all* of the seasonal
movement shows up in the back. The movement that I have observed seasonally
is only around 1/8" (over a 24" wide top). It's located in northern NY, and
heated to about 55 in the winter time. No AC in summer. I suspect that you
will see much (much) less than 3/4" of seasonal movement.
Also, I included a groove in the engrain of the field of the bench in which
the end-skirts' tongues slide. This is to help keep the work surface aligned
through seasonal changes. Just a sloppy bolt might not keep things flush.
-Steve
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I purchased the Veritas Basic Bench kit from Lee Valley, which
> includes the plans and hardware needed to build a bench that has two
> narrow slabs with a tool well in between. It also allows for side
> skirts with dog holes so I can clamp along the sides as well as on
> top.
>
> Having used benches with tool wells before, I'd like to eliminate that
> feature, and instead have a continous slab across the width of the
> bench. The original design allows for each slab to expand and
> contract to/from the tool well. If I eliminate the well and use a
> single slab, how can allow for wood movement and still incorporate the
> side skirts?
>
> What I'm thinking of doing is simply attaching the end skirts to the
> middle of the slab only, and leaving the side skirts unattached to the
> end skirts. Further out towards the edges of the end skirts I'll
> drill oversized holes to allow for movement. This way the slab (with
> side skirts permanently attached) can expand away from the center.
> Assuming the top will be 30" wide, that seasonal moisture content will
> fluctuate 8% here in the Northeast, and that I'll be using hard maple,
> it looks like the top may expand/contract up to over 3/4"! I suppose
> I can account for this in the length of the end skirts, so they don't
> push away the ends of the side skirts during the dry periods.
>
> I don't know, I guess I'm just writing this to be sure I understand
> the forces involved and that I engineer around them. If anyone has an
> understanding of what I'm trying to do, and sees errors in my
> reasoning, or better alternatives to my proposed solutions, I welcome
> your feedback.
>
> Thanks for reading!
> JP
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
> Thanks, Chris and Steve. I believe I'm going to incorporate both
> ideas - attaching the skirt at the "front" and the tongue & groove
> feature. Buckling was one of my concerns too.
>
> Did either of you use the Veritas Twin Screw vise? That's what I've
> purchased, and from what I gather installation can be tricky. I'm
> sure I'll have questions!~
No. although if I ever did it again, I would be very tempted to install a
VTSV.
-Steve
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com