On Feb 3, 4:53=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 14:05:32 GMT, Keith nuttle
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >What is the experience with using this type of joints for drawers over
> >more traditional methods. =A0 Example Rockler cat# 92112
>
> >I am an amature woodworker but my projects involving drawers die when
> >they hit the dovetails.
>
> What no one here is telling you is the setup time. =A0Have lots of scrap
> test pieces around - the same thickness (this is important). =A0The bit
> height is critical and will change if you use different thicknesses of
> material. =A0The following site has a good piece on using a drawer lock
> bit.
>
> http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages...
>
> P
You are absolutely right regarding material thickness and thanks for
the link. The prices look very competative. Have you bought from them
before and, if so, how was the experience? I bought my lock bit from
Rockler and purchased the setup blocks as well. I make a setup block
for my other "hard to setup" bits and save it for the next time.
On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 14:05:32 GMT, Keith nuttle
<[email protected]> wrote:
>What is the experience with using this type of joints for drawers over
>more traditional methods. Example Rockler cat# 92112
>
>I am an amature woodworker but my projects involving drawers die when
>they hit the dovetails.
What no one here is telling you is the setup time. Have lots of scrap
test pieces around - the same thickness (this is important). The bit
height is critical and will change if you use different thicknesses of
material. The following site has a good piece on using a drawer lock
bit.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_door.html#drawer_lock_bits_anchor
P
On Feb 3, 11:58=A0am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Keith nuttle wrote:
> > What is the experience with using this type of joints for drawers
> > over more traditional methods. =A0 Example Rockler cat# 92112
>
> > I am an amature woodworker but my projects involving drawers die
> > when they hit the dovetails.
>
> Never used one, usually attach drawer fronts/sides with sliding
> dovetails...quick & easy to make and strong.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico
The drawer lock bit is my choice for drawers when the joint is not
part of the detail of the piece. It is fast and the glue area is
plenty large enough. Dovetails are preffered when a through dovetail
will be visible and adds to the character.
"George" wrote in message
>
> "Swingman" wrote in message
>
> > "Keith nuttle" wrote
> >
> >> What is the experience with using this type of joints for drawers over
> >> more traditional methods. Example Rockler cat# 92112
> >>
> >> I am an amature woodworker but my projects involving drawers die when
> >> they hit the dovetails.
> >
> > If you have a table saw do a DAGS on "lock rabbet joint" and "table
saw".
> >
> > Plenty strong for most furniture drawers, easy to cut, and can be
> > strengthened further, and attractively, with pegs/pins of various
> > materials.
>
> Or watch The Router Workshop and make the same joint -"combination
joint" -
> with the router, as they do.
Agreed ... and with a much cheaper bit to boot.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Feb 3, 9:29 am, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Keith nuttle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > What is the experience with using this type of joints for drawers over
> > more traditional methods. Example Rockler cat# 92112
>
> > I am an amature woodworker but my projects involving drawers die when they
> > hit the dovetails.
>
> The lack of ability (or desire) to do dovetails is why these router bits
> exist. They work well from my limited experience.
I used them on 25 plywood 20" by 30" by 6" high drawers in my shop to
hold tools, fasteners, etc. All heavy load items. Six years later
they are still glued tight. Just need to pay attention to initial
layout and remember what is a side and what is a front/back.
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "Keith nuttle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> What is the experience with using this type of joints for drawers
>> over more traditional methods. Example Rockler cat# 92112
>>
>> I am an amature woodworker but my projects involving drawers die
>> when they hit the dovetails.
>
> The lack of ability (or desire)
Or time. In production work even with a jig dovetails take longer and
thus cost more, and most people neither know nor care what kind of
joint is used as long as it doesn't break.
> to do dovetails is why these router
> bits exist. They work well from my limited experience.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Keith nuttle" wrote
>
>> What is the experience with using this type of joints for drawers over
>> more traditional methods. Example Rockler cat# 92112
>>
>> I am an amature woodworker but my projects involving drawers die when
>> they hit the dovetails.
>
> If you have a table saw do a DAGS on "lock rabbet joint" and "table saw".
>
> Plenty strong for most furniture drawers, easy to cut, and can be
> strengthened further, and attractively, with pegs/pins of various
> materials.
Or watch The Router Workshop and make the same joint -"combination joint" -
with the router, as they do.
"Keith nuttle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What is the experience with using this type of joints for drawers over
> more traditional methods. Example Rockler cat# 92112
>
> I am an amature woodworker but my projects involving drawers die when they
> hit the dovetails.
The lack of ability (or desire) to do dovetails is why these router bits
exist. They work well from my limited experience.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> What no one here is telling you is the setup time. Have lots of scrap
> test pieces around - the same thickness (this is important). The bit
> height is critical and will change if you use different thicknesses of
> material. The following site has a good piece on using a drawer lock
> bit.
>
> http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_door.html#drawer_lock_bits_anchor
>
> P
Setup is time consuming the first time around. Then you save a piece for
next time and it takes only seconds to adjust.
Keith nuttle wrote:
> What is the experience with using this type of joints for drawers
> over more traditional methods. Example Rockler cat# 92112
>
> I am an amature woodworker but my projects involving drawers die
> when they hit the dovetails.
Never used one, usually attach drawer fronts/sides with sliding
dovetails...quick & easy to make and strong.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Keith nuttle" wrote
> What is the experience with using this type of joints for drawers over
> more traditional methods. Example Rockler cat# 92112
>
> I am an amature woodworker but my projects involving drawers die when
> they hit the dovetails.
If you have a table saw do a DAGS on "lock rabbet joint" and "table saw".
Plenty strong for most furniture drawers, easy to cut, and can be
strengthened further, and attractively, with pegs/pins of various materials.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)