Enlarging a hole for a deadbolt

In article <[email protected]>, Doug Kanter
<[email protected]> wrote:

> Anyone got a cool trick?

Cut a plug to fill the hole, glue it in place, then redrill. You'll
even have a pilot hole.

djb

In article <[email protected]>, Will
<[email protected]> wrote:

> Use a 1-3/4" hole saw as guide and piggy back a 2-1/8" hole saw on top. This
> trick I read it on a magazine this month.

Ooh! I like that better than plugging the existing hole!

In article <[email protected]>, Doug Kanter
<[email protected]> wrote:

> That's a lot of putty. Could take several applications, and a week or more
> for all of it to set up. Now I'm wondering about screwing a piece of scrap
> wood to one side of the door and using that as a target for the guide bit.

Yep.

-chib

--
(email: change out to in)

Will wrote:

>Use a 1-3/4" hole saw as guide and piggy back a 2-1/8" hole saw on top. This
>trick I read it on a magazine this month.
>
>
That's the best, and easiest, solution so far.

>
>"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>
>>OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
>>Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
>>backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
>>the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
>>2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
>>guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
>>saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
>>elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>>
>>Anyone got a cool trick?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (Doug Kanter) writes:

| OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
| Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
| backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
| the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
| 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
| guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
| saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
| elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
|
| Anyone got a cool trick?

Starrett has a special "Oops" arbor (seriously, that's the name) that lets
you use one hole saw as a pilot for a bigger hole saw. It has a 1/4" shank
and threads for both saw sizes. I think you might be better off just clamping
a piece of wood over the hole as others have suggested, though. When my
locksmith did this he used his normal lock jig. Versions of that are available
at home stores.

Dan Lanciani
ddl@danlan.*com

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (Eric Ryder) writes:

| > [snip]
| >
| > I found the article, just a snippet, really - "The Family Handyman"
| > October
| > 2004. pp 19. It syas to use two hole saws, the pilot saw the same
| > diameter
| > os the existing hole and the larger hole saw (the correct size) - install
| > both. Go slowly until the pilot saw aligns the larger.
| >
| > Looks soooo easy,
| >
| > Josie
| >
| >
| >
| >
|
| That would work with the el-cheapo stack holesaw sets, but ain't gonna make
| it with my Lennox set.

The Starrett Oops arbor will fit your Lennox saws (as well as Milwaukee and
Blu-Mol). It seems very handy in concept, though I admit that I have not
opened it since I bought it...

Dan Lanciani
ddl@danlan.*com

willshak wrote:
> Will wrote:
>
>> Use a 1-3/4" hole saw as guide and piggy back a 2-1/8" hole saw on
>> top. This trick I read it on a magazine this month.
>>
>>
> That's the best, and easiest, solution so far.

Got a router? Got a 3/8 cutter with a 1/4 shank? Extend the bit so it cuts
the underside of the hole about 1/2 the thickness of the wood. Use the
shank of the bit to run around the top edge of the hole. You have now
enlarged the diameter of the bottom half of the hole by 1/8. Turn the door
over, set the bit so it cuts what wasn't cut before. Repeat until the
enlarged part of the hole is the correct diameter then switch to a 1/4 bit
and trim the rest of the hole flush with the enlarged part.

Takes more time to tell than do, makes a nice vertical hole.

--
dadiOH
_____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.0...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
____________________________

You keep your used masking tape from previous projects? Seems strange
that you're into saving stuff like that, but then want to waste some
bondo and a 1/2 lb. of toothpicks to fill a hole that you're about to
remove.

The best solution I read in the original thread was to cut the new
size hole in a scrap of plywood. Clamp this over the old hole, and use
it for a guide. Cut halfway through, then flip the door over and
repeat from the other side. You can ensure correct placement for the
back cut by placing alignment marks on some masking tape (new or old)
on the door edge and on the plywood, then matching them up on the
other side.

Waiting for Bondo to set? You're obviously charging by the hour. It
certainly would work reliably though...

-Mike


"Joe Fabeitz" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> 1) Remove door from hinges and lay it horizontally on the table of your
> drill press. Support the outer portions of the door with a platform made of
> 2 x 4s and plywood (or OSB) left over from previous projects.
> 2) Adjust the height of this platform to match the height of your drill
> press table so the door is level.
> 3) Apply wide duct tape (or masking tape left over from a previous painting
> project) to the underside of the door hole, making sure to seal the tape
> around the hole in preparation for the next step.
> 4) Create a mixture of "Bondo" and wood chips recovered from your shop dust
> collection system. If you have recently cleaned out the dust collection
> system and don't have enough chips you may substitute 1/2 lb. of toothpicks
> run through your office shredder. (Many folks don't realize this little
> "trick of the trade").
> 5) When it is about the consistency of toothpaste (Crest), pour it into the
> old hole, making sure to completely fill the opening.
> 6) When this 'plug" has set up, drill your damn hole!
>
>
> ;-)
> "Jeff Cochran" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 02:19:32 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have
> a
> > >Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> > >backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> > >the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> > >2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> > >guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> > >saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> > >elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
> > >
> > >Anyone got a cool trick?
> >
> > Tack a 1/4" piece of plywood across the hole, use a hole saw to drill
> > the new hole. Plywood acts as a guide, pull the tacks and a few tiny
> > holes to putty and repaint.
> >
> > Jeff

You keep your used masking tape from previous projects? Seems strange
that you're into saving stuff like that, but then want to waste some
bondo and a 1/2 lb. of toothpicks to fill a hole that you're about to
remove.

The best solution I read in the original thread was to cut the new
size hole in a scrap of plywood. Clamp this over the old hole, and use
it for a guide. Cut halfway through, then flip the door over and
repeat from the other side. You can ensure correct placement for the
back cut by placing alignment marks on some masking tape (new or old)
on the door edge and on the plywood, then matching them up on the
other side.

Waiting for Bondo to set? You're obviously charging by the hour. It
certainly would work reliably though...

-Mike


"Joe Fabeitz" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> 1) Remove door from hinges and lay it horizontally on the table of your
> drill press. Support the outer portions of the door with a platform made of
> 2 x 4s and plywood (or OSB) left over from previous projects.
> 2) Adjust the height of this platform to match the height of your drill
> press table so the door is level.
> 3) Apply wide duct tape (or masking tape left over from a previous painting
> project) to the underside of the door hole, making sure to seal the tape
> around the hole in preparation for the next step.
> 4) Create a mixture of "Bondo" and wood chips recovered from your shop dust
> collection system. If you have recently cleaned out the dust collection
> system and don't have enough chips you may substitute 1/2 lb. of toothpicks
> run through your office shredder. (Many folks don't realize this little
> "trick of the trade").
> 5) When it is about the consistency of toothpaste (Crest), pour it into the
> old hole, making sure to completely fill the opening.
> 6) When this 'plug" has set up, drill your damn hole!
>
>
> ;-)
> "Jeff Cochran" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 02:19:32 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have
> a
> > >Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> > >backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> > >the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> > >2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> > >guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> > >saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> > >elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
> > >
> > >Anyone got a cool trick?
> >
> > Tack a 1/4" piece of plywood across the hole, use a hole saw to drill
> > the new hole. Plywood acts as a guide, pull the tacks and a few tiny
> > holes to putty and repaint.
> >
> > Jeff

You know, I was thinking that if you clamped your guide hole on top
and a 1/4" piece of ply, or 1/8" piece of masonite on the bottom, the
guide bit for the hole saw may go through the bottom piece (as long as
the blade doesn't get through the door). This would give you a guide
hole for the flip cut without resetting anything.

Just figure out how much clearance you have between the bit and the
blade depth.

-Mike

"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Mike Reed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > The best solution I read in the original thread was to cut the new
> > size hole in a scrap of plywood. Clamp this over the old hole, and use
> > it for a guide. Cut halfway through, then flip the door over and
> > repeat from the other side. You can ensure correct placement for the
> > back cut by placing alignment marks on some masking tape (new or old)
> > on the door edge and on the plywood, then matching them up on the
> > other side.
>
> A (very young) guy at Home Depot suggested that I just try and hold the
> larger hole saw really steady, and that hopefully, once it bit in 1/4" or
> so, the wood would guide it. Obviously, his dad never taught him the meaning
> of "cob job". :-)
>
> I really appreciate all the GOOD suggestions here, by the way. Now, I'm
> waiting for the hardware store guy to key the new locks alike, and I'll
> select the most exciting idea from the list!

On 07 Oct 2004 22:27:32 EDT, Mark and Kim Smith
<[email protected]> wrote:

|Doug Kanter wrote:
|
|>OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
|>Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
|>backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
|>the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
|>2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
|>guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
|>saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
|>elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
|>
|>Anyone got a cool trick?
|>
|>
|>
|How 'bout get a 3/4" thick piece of scrap. Make hole with the new hole
|saw. Clamp scrap into position over where you want bigger hole. Drill
|hole.


Exactly!

Sti©ky <sti©[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Eric Ryder said...
> > Bore the correct hole in a scrap of ply, clamp this where you want the hole
> > and bore away. The scrap will guide the outside of the holesaw. For the
> > best results, bore the skin from both faces in.
> >
> >
> > "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
> > > Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> > > backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> > > the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> > > 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> > > guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> > > saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> > > elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
> > >
> > > Anyone got a cool trick?
> > >
> I used this method for several french doors. Worked like a charm and
> was dead easy.

I've also used this method with success. Make a little jig from scrap
ply with a stop for correct backset, bore hole in it, and clamp to
door. If you're like me, layout a horizontal center on door edge and
jig so you can align both sides of the door accurately. AND remember,
most lock sets allow some margin of error.
You're lucky if you won't have to fool with filling the old lock
mortise in. I spent 3 hrs last weekend retrofitting a Schlage unit to
a mortised skeleton key setup. It was funny... Prepping the stock,
fitting, and gluing up the mortise was easy, but matching the small
unfinished areas of a 100 year old oak door took the majority of my
time.

Kwikset makes a drill jig for just this. I bought one about 15 years ago for
my locksmith biz. And have made a pile of money with it. Call a local
locksmith and pay him a lot of money.

Plan B is to take two pieces of thin plywood, and a couple C-clamps. Clamp
plywood on both sides of the door. Use a carpenters square to mark where
the hole oughta be, and drill with a hole saw. I personally can't encourage
you to do this, cause it would deprive a brother locksmith of a house call.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.

Anyone got a cool trick?

Might work -- but a lot of extra work.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"C C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Fill the hole with wood putty, let it set up and redrill with correct size
hole saw
Chuck

"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
> Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
> Anyone got a cool trick?
>
>

On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 02:19:32 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
>Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
>backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
>the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
>2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
>guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
>saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
>elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
>Anyone got a cool trick?

Tack a 1/4" piece of plywood across the hole, use a hole saw to drill
the new hole. Plywood acts as a guide, pull the tacks and a few tiny
holes to putty and repaint.

Jeff

That's a lot of putty. Could take several applications, and a week or more
for all of it to set up. Now I'm wondering about screwing a piece of scrap
wood to one side of the door and using that as a target for the guide bit.

"C C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Fill the hole with wood putty, let it set up and redrill with correct size
> hole saw
> Chuck
>
> "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have
a
> > Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> > backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset,
but
> > the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset
requires
> > 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> > guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a
saber
> > saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> > elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
> >
> > Anyone got a cool trick?
> >
> >
>
>

Once again, the solution to this was illustrated in the latest edition of
"The Family Handyman".

Mount two hole saws on the same arbor. Slide the larger one on first so it
will be closer to the drill chuck, then slide the 1 3/4" saw on. Tighten
both, insert the smaller one in the existing hole, using it as a pilot.

"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
> Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
> Anyone got a cool trick?
>
>

Hello,

I didn't see the original post, but from what I read here it looks like this
"oops" arbor made by Starrett might just do the trick. It allows you to use
two hole saws on one arbor. The "new" larger sized one cuts the properly
sized hole, while the "old" original sized one guides it. I haven't used one
yet, but it seems like a good idea.

Here's the link:

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product.asp?ProductID=hs-0019

Hope this helps, Peter.

"Joe Fabeitz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Me! Me! Pick Me!
> "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "Mike Reed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> > > The best solution I read in the original thread was to cut the new
> > > size hole in a scrap of plywood. Clamp this over the old hole, and use
> > > it for a guide. Cut halfway through, then flip the door over and
> > > repeat from the other side. You can ensure correct placement for the
> > > back cut by placing alignment marks on some masking tape (new or old)
> > > on the door edge and on the plywood, then matching them up on the
> > > other side.
> >
> > A (very young) guy at Home Depot suggested that I just try and hold the
> > larger hole saw really steady, and that hopefully, once it bit in 1/4"
or
> > so, the wood would guide it. Obviously, his dad never taught him the
> meaning
> > of "cob job". :-)
> >
> > I really appreciate all the GOOD suggestions here, by the way. Now, I'm
> > waiting for the hardware store guy to key the new locks alike, and I'll
> > select the most exciting idea from the list!
> >
> >
>
>

"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 19:51:14 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >"Mike Reed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >
> >> The best solution I read in the original thread was to cut the new
> >> size hole in a scrap of plywood. Clamp this over the old hole, and use
> >> it for a guide. Cut halfway through, then flip the door over and
> >> repeat from the other side. You can ensure correct placement for the
> >> back cut by placing alignment marks on some masking tape (new or old)
> >> on the door edge and on the plywood, then matching them up on the
> >> other side.
> >
> >A (very young) guy at Home Depot suggested that I just try and hold the
> >larger hole saw really steady, and that hopefully, once it bit in 1/4" or
> >so, the wood would guide it. Obviously, his dad never taught him the
meaning
> >of "cob job". :-)
> >
> >I really appreciate all the GOOD suggestions here, by the way. Now, I'm
> >waiting for the hardware store guy to key the new locks alike, and I'll
> >select the most exciting idea from the list!
> >
> get the guys name at HD.... personal/corporate liability suit coming
> up.. *groan*
>

Maybe I should go with his advice. Then, they can buy me a nice new door.
The one I have is hacked and I'm too busy to strip & repaint it until
spring.

In article <[email protected]>,
Doug Kanter <[email protected]> wrote:
>OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
>Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
>backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
>the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
>2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
>guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
>saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
>elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
>Anyone got a cool trick?
>
>

Use your 2 1/8" holesaw to drill a hole through a short piece of a 2X6
or similar, then clamp that on the door so the drilled hole lines up
with where you need the new hole in the door. The (dare I say it)
predrilled 2 1/8" hole will act as a guide for the holesaw.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]

Eric Ryder said...
> Bore the correct hole in a scrap of ply, clamp this where you want the hole
> and bore away. The scrap will guide the outside of the holesaw. For the
> best results, bore the skin from both faces in.
>
>
> "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
> > Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> > backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> > the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> > 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> > guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> > saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> > elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
> >
> > Anyone got a cool trick?
> >
I used this method for several french doors. Worked like a charm and
was dead easy.
--
Sti©ky

"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
> Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
> Anyone got a cool trick?
>
1) Cut a hole the old size (1-3/4") and glue the cutout in the hole.

2) Take a square scrap of wood. Draw a 1-3/4" circle with a compass. Make a
pilot hole at the center. Line up the circle with the old door hole. Clamp
the scrap in place. Drill the new hole using the scrap as your guide.

Fill the hole with wood putty, let it set up and redrill with correct size
hole saw
Chuck

"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
> Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
> Anyone got a cool trick?
>
>

Bore the correct hole in a scrap of ply, clamp this where you want the hole
and bore away. The scrap will guide the outside of the holesaw. For the
best results, bore the skin from both faces in.


"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
> Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
> Anyone got a cool trick?
>
>

"Mike Reed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> The best solution I read in the original thread was to cut the new
> size hole in a scrap of plywood. Clamp this over the old hole, and use
> it for a guide. Cut halfway through, then flip the door over and
> repeat from the other side. You can ensure correct placement for the
> back cut by placing alignment marks on some masking tape (new or old)
> on the door edge and on the plywood, then matching them up on the
> other side.

A (very young) guy at Home Depot suggested that I just try and hold the
larger hole saw really steady, and that hopefully, once it bit in 1/4" or
so, the wood would guide it. Obviously, his dad never taught him the meaning
of "cob job". :-)

I really appreciate all the GOOD suggestions here, by the way. Now, I'm
waiting for the hardware store guy to key the new locks alike, and I'll
select the most exciting idea from the list!

Attach them both to the same arbor?

"Will" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Use a 1-3/4" hole saw as guide and piggy back a 2-1/8" hole saw on top.
This
> trick I read it on a magazine this month.
>
>
> "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have
a
> > Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> > backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset,
but
> > the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset
requires
> > 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> > guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a
saber
> > saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> > elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
> >
> > Anyone got a cool trick?
> >
> >
>
>

That is actually pretty neat. I'd probably test it out on a piece of scrap
first, as I could see possible jumping out of the hole, but for $7 seems
like a reasonable investment.

"Peter Bogiatzidis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> I didn't see the original post, but from what I read here it looks like
this
> "oops" arbor made by Starrett might just do the trick. It allows you to
use
> two hole saws on one arbor. The "new" larger sized one cuts the properly
> sized hole, while the "old" original sized one guides it. I haven't used
one
> yet, but it seems like a good idea.
>
> Here's the link:
>
> http://www.mcfeelys.com/product.asp?ProductID=hs-0019

Doug Kanter wrote:
>> Attach them both to the same arbor?
>>
>> "Will" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Use a 1-3/4" hole saw as guide and piggy back a 2-1/8" hole saw on
>>> top. This trick I read it on a magazine this month.
[snip]

I must have seen it, too, but just can't remember where. Both attached to
the same arbor, reminded me of an upsidedown wedding cake.

Josie

"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
> Maybe I should go with his advice. Then, they can buy me a nice new
> door. The one I have is hacked and I'm too busy to strip & repaint it
> until spring.
>

Woodworks had a segment this week on making one out of Jarrah. Of course it
came out beautifully. Doing one like that should keep you busy in the shop
until spring!

"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
> Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
> Anyone got a cool trick?
>
>
I buy rubber arbors for sanding drums. Press in a piece of tubing to act as
a pilot bearing.

Bill

Of course, I could also change the guide bit to a much longer one. I've got
some throwaway bits that I wouldn't mind filing a notch in to catch the
arbor's set screw.

"Mike Reed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You know, I was thinking that if you clamped your guide hole on top
> and a 1/4" piece of ply, or 1/8" piece of masonite on the bottom, the
> guide bit for the hole saw may go through the bottom piece (as long as
> the blade doesn't get through the door). This would give you a guide
> hole for the flip cut without resetting anything.
>
> Just figure out how much clearance you have between the bit and the
> blade depth.
>
> -Mike
>
> "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > "Mike Reed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> > > The best solution I read in the original thread was to cut the new
> > > size hole in a scrap of plywood. Clamp this over the old hole, and use
> > > it for a guide. Cut halfway through, then flip the door over and
> > > repeat from the other side. You can ensure correct placement for the
> > > back cut by placing alignment marks on some masking tape (new or old)
> > > on the door edge and on the plywood, then matching them up on the
> > > other side.
> >
> > A (very young) guy at Home Depot suggested that I just try and hold the
> > larger hole saw really steady, and that hopefully, once it bit in 1/4"
or
> > so, the wood would guide it. Obviously, his dad never taught him the
meaning
> > of "cob job". :-)
> >
> > I really appreciate all the GOOD suggestions here, by the way. Now, I'm
> > waiting for the hardware store guy to key the new locks alike, and I'll
> > select the most exciting idea from the list!

Doug Kanter wrote:

>OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
>Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
>backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
>the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
>2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
>guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
>saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
>elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
>Anyone got a cool trick?
>
>
>
How 'bout get a 3/4" thick piece of scrap. Make hole with the new hole
saw. Clamp scrap into position over where you want bigger hole. Drill
hole.

On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 19:51:14 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>"Mike Reed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>> The best solution I read in the original thread was to cut the new
>> size hole in a scrap of plywood. Clamp this over the old hole, and use
>> it for a guide. Cut halfway through, then flip the door over and
>> repeat from the other side. You can ensure correct placement for the
>> back cut by placing alignment marks on some masking tape (new or old)
>> on the door edge and on the plywood, then matching them up on the
>> other side.
>
>A (very young) guy at Home Depot suggested that I just try and hold the
>larger hole saw really steady, and that hopefully, once it bit in 1/4" or
>so, the wood would guide it. Obviously, his dad never taught him the meaning
>of "cob job". :-)
>
>I really appreciate all the GOOD suggestions here, by the way. Now, I'm
>waiting for the hardware store guy to key the new locks alike, and I'll
>select the most exciting idea from the list!
>
get the guys name at HD.... personal/corporate liability suit coming
up.. *groan*

"Sam Schmenk" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sti©ky <sti©[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > Eric Ryder said...
> > > Bore the correct hole in a scrap of ply, clamp this where you want the
hole
> > > and bore away. The scrap will guide the outside of the holesaw. For
the
> > > best results, bore the skin from both faces in.
> > >
> > >
> > > "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I
have a
> > > > Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet.
The
> > > > backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for
Kwikset, but
> > > > the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset
requires
> > > > 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for
the
> > > > guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a
saber
> > > > saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something
more
> > > > elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
> > > >
> > > > Anyone got a cool trick?
> > > >
> > I used this method for several french doors. Worked like a charm and
> > was dead easy.
>
> I've also used this method with success. Make a little jig from scrap
> ply with a stop for correct backset, bore hole in it, and clamp to
> door. If you're like me, layout a horizontal center on door edge and
> jig so you can align both sides of the door accurately. AND remember,
> most lock sets allow some margin of error.
> You're lucky if you won't have to fool with filling the old lock
> mortise in. I spent 3 hrs last weekend retrofitting a Schlage unit to
> a mortised skeleton key setup. It was funny... Prepping the stock,
> fitting, and gluing up the mortise was easy, but matching the small
> unfinished areas of a 100 year old oak door took the majority of my
> time.

Really makes you want to slap the bejeezus out of whomever designed lock
packaging containing the words "Easy Installation!" :-) Nothing in home
repair is as quick as we wish it would be.

"A brother locksmith"? Give me a break!
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61-#spamblock*[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Kwikset makes a drill jig for just this. I bought one about 15 years ago
for
> my locksmith biz. And have made a pile of money with it. Call a local
> locksmith and pay him a lot of money.
>
> Plan B is to take two pieces of thin plywood, and a couple C-clamps. Clamp
> plywood on both sides of the door. Use a carpenters square to mark where
> the hole oughta be, and drill with a hole saw. I personally can't
encourage
> you to do this, cause it would deprive a brother locksmith of a house
call.
>
> --
>
> Christopher A. Young
> Learn more about Jesus
> www.lds.org
> www.mormons.com
>
>
> "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
> Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
> Anyone got a cool trick?
>
>
>

Me! Me! Pick Me!
"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mike Reed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > The best solution I read in the original thread was to cut the new
> > size hole in a scrap of plywood. Clamp this over the old hole, and use
> > it for a guide. Cut halfway through, then flip the door over and
> > repeat from the other side. You can ensure correct placement for the
> > back cut by placing alignment marks on some masking tape (new or old)
> > on the door edge and on the plywood, then matching them up on the
> > other side.
>
> A (very young) guy at Home Depot suggested that I just try and hold the
> larger hole saw really steady, and that hopefully, once it bit in 1/4" or
> so, the wood would guide it. Obviously, his dad never taught him the
meaning
> of "cob job". :-)
>
> I really appreciate all the GOOD suggestions here, by the way. Now, I'm
> waiting for the hardware store guy to key the new locks alike, and I'll
> select the most exciting idea from the list!
>
>

1) Remove door from hinges and lay it horizontally on the table of your
drill press. Support the outer portions of the door with a platform made of
2 x 4s and plywood (or OSB) left over from previous projects.
2) Adjust the height of this platform to match the height of your drill
press table so the door is level.
3) Apply wide duct tape (or masking tape left over from a previous painting
project) to the underside of the door hole, making sure to seal the tape
around the hole in preparation for the next step.
4) Create a mixture of "Bondo" and wood chips recovered from your shop dust
collection system. If you have recently cleaned out the dust collection
system and don't have enough chips you may substitute 1/2 lb. of toothpicks
run through your office shredder. (Many folks don't realize this little
"trick of the trade").
5) When it is about the consistency of toothpaste (Crest), pour it into the
old hole, making sure to completely fill the opening.
6) When this 'plug" has set up, drill your damn hole!


;-)
"Jeff Cochran" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 02:19:32 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have
a
> >Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> >backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> >the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> >2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> >guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> >saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> >elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
> >
> >Anyone got a cool trick?
>
> Tack a 1/4" piece of plywood across the hole, use a hole saw to drill
> the new hole. Plywood acts as a guide, pull the tacks and a few tiny
> holes to putty and repaint.
>
> Jeff

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 12:09:57 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
<[email protected]> wrote:

give him a dremal and a few dozen sanding drums.. lol

>Worst idea so far - my son's. He suggested I try enlarging the hole with a
>curved rasp. I told him "knock yourself out - just set aside the entire
>morning". He changed his mind. He emphasized that ***I*** was to do the
>work.
>
>"Joe Fabeitz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Me! Me! Pick Me!
>> "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > "Mike Reed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:[email protected]...
>> >
>> > > The best solution I read in the original thread was to cut the new
>> > > size hole in a scrap of plywood. Clamp this over the old hole, and use
>> > > it for a guide. Cut halfway through, then flip the door over and
>> > > repeat from the other side. You can ensure correct placement for the
>> > > back cut by placing alignment marks on some masking tape (new or old)
>> > > on the door edge and on the plywood, then matching them up on the
>> > > other side.
>> >
>> > A (very young) guy at Home Depot suggested that I just try and hold the
>> > larger hole saw really steady, and that hopefully, once it bit in 1/4"
>or
>> > so, the wood would guide it. Obviously, his dad never taught him the
>> meaning
>> > of "cob job". :-)
>> >
>> > I really appreciate all the GOOD suggestions here, by the way. Now, I'm
>> > waiting for the hardware store guy to key the new locks alike, and I'll
>> > select the most exciting idea from the list!
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>

"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
> <snip>
> > Maybe I should go with his advice. Then, they can buy me a nice new
> > door. The one I have is hacked and I'm too busy to strip & repaint it
> > until spring.
> >
>
> Woodworks had a segment this week on making one out of Jarrah. Of course
it
> came out beautifully. Doing one like that should keep you busy in the shop
> until spring!

What I need is to win a small lottery. Just enough so I could take two years
off and get this house in shape. I just moved in and there are some real
oddities.

1) Green siding, but a purple front door, for instance.

2) Neighbors tell me the original owner managed a hardware store. But,
there's absolutely NO indication that he hung anything with hooks or any
other kind of fasteners. The day after I closed on the house, I went along
the cellar beams with a flashlight. Not only were there no hooks or nails,
but no holes of any kind. Same in the garage. Maybe he owned no stuff.
Nothing. :-) How can you work at a hardware store and not spend part of your
paycheck on "jewelry"?

3) Kitchen sink faucet is too long for the sink - it extends almost 80% of
the way from the base to the edge of the sink where I stand. Makes washing
big things a real pain. The stem is also apparently stuffed with Bondo. It
takes almost 300 lbs of force to move it back & forth. (I know...a rebuild
kit will fix it).

4) Half the windows are painted shut. There should be stiff penalties for
that crime.

5) Outdoor lights were arranged to eliminate any possibility of seeing stars
at night, and to completely blind anyone looking at the house. Owner
apparently had fantasies of electrifying a prison yard. If I ever need to
call the cops because of an intruder, they'll have to choose between
approaching the house in total darkness, or wearing welder's goggles.

6) Bathroom tiles are Pepto Pink. Gotta go. :-)

On the plus side:

1) Awesome lawn done without chemicals. Half of it will be flowers and
vegetables by next year.

2) New furnace (albeit a cheapo piece of crap Goodman unit), new water
heater.

3) Amazing trees to break up the view, but they're on other peoples'
property. Not much raking.

4) It appears someone cleaned the basement monthly using a magnifying glass
and Q-Tips.

5) Four neighbors: One dead & gone, two old & quiet, and one with a funny
little kid who has a fascination with his dad's push broom. He likes to
sweep other peoples' driveways (but not his dad's). I'm negotiating a deal
to have him actually scoop up what he sweeps and put it in the trash. He
wants $0.25 per day, which is a great deal, considering how many maple
thingies are flying around at the moment.

"firstjois" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [snip]
>>>>> "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>> OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to.
>>>>>> I have a Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with
>>>>>> a KwikSet. The backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is
>>>>>> correct for Kwikset, but the hole's size is too small. It's about
>>>>>> 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires 2-1/8". I've got the right size
>>>>>> hole saw, but without solid wood for the guide bit, I can't see a
>>>>>> way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber saw is a
>>>>>> possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
>>>>>> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Anyone got a cool trick?
>>>>>>
> [snip]
>
> I found the article, just a snippet, really - "The Family Handyman"
> October
> 2004. pp 19. It syas to use two hole saws, the pilot saw the same
> diameter
> os the existing hole and the larger hole saw (the correct size) - install
> both. Go slowly until the pilot saw aligns the larger.
>
> Looks soooo easy,
>
> Josie
>
>
>
>

That would work with the el-cheapo stack holesaw sets, but ain't gonna make
it with my Lennox set.

On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 02:19:32 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
>Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
>backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
>the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
>2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
>guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
>saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
>elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
>Anyone got a cool trick?
>
DAMN... i had the same problem a couple of years ago...
another, related problem was my the drill hole saw had about 1/2 of
actual drill bit sticking out of the bottom..
I bought a longer bit, clamped a piece of scrap plywood on the other
side of the door, marked the hole center on it and drilled the new
hole..
Not a great way to do it, but it was easy (once i had the longer bit)
and worked well for me..

"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

Using a saber
> saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.

My hole saw setup lets a person attach two hole saws to one mandrel. In
effect there's one hole saw inside a bigger one. Could you do something like
that ~ put a hole saw for the existing sized hole inside the bigger one you
actually want?

Worst idea so far - my son's. He suggested I try enlarging the hole with a
curved rasp. I told him "knock yourself out - just set aside the entire
morning". He changed his mind. He emphasized that ***I*** was to do the
work.

"Joe Fabeitz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Me! Me! Pick Me!
> "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "Mike Reed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> > > The best solution I read in the original thread was to cut the new
> > > size hole in a scrap of plywood. Clamp this over the old hole, and use
> > > it for a guide. Cut halfway through, then flip the door over and
> > > repeat from the other side. You can ensure correct placement for the
> > > back cut by placing alignment marks on some masking tape (new or old)
> > > on the door edge and on the plywood, then matching them up on the
> > > other side.
> >
> > A (very young) guy at Home Depot suggested that I just try and hold the
> > larger hole saw really steady, and that hopefully, once it bit in 1/4"
or
> > so, the wood would guide it. Obviously, his dad never taught him the
> meaning
> > of "cob job". :-)
> >
> > I really appreciate all the GOOD suggestions here, by the way. Now, I'm
> > waiting for the hardware store guy to key the new locks alike, and I'll
> > select the most exciting idea from the list!
> >
> >
>
>

"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> willshak wrote:
> > Will wrote:
> >
> >> Use a 1-3/4" hole saw as guide and piggy back a 2-1/8" hole saw on
> >> top. This trick I read it on a magazine this month.
> >>
> >>
> > That's the best, and easiest, solution so far.
>
> Got a router? Got a 3/8 cutter with a 1/4 shank? Extend the bit so it
cuts
> the underside of the hole about 1/2 the thickness of the wood. Use the
> shank of the bit to run around the top edge of the hole. You have now
> enlarged the diameter of the bottom half of the hole by 1/8. Turn the
door
> over, set the bit so it cuts what wasn't cut before. Repeat until the
> enlarged part of the hole is the correct diameter then switch to a 1/4 bit
> and trim the rest of the hole flush with the enlarged part.
>
> Takes more time to tell than do, makes a nice vertical hole.

Yet ANOTHER good idea! I don't think about my router at times like this
because frankly, I'm not that skilled with it. Out comes the scrap wood for
practice purposes.......

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 12:09:57 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Worst idea so far - my son's. He suggested I try enlarging the hole with a
>curved rasp. I told him "knock yourself out - just set aside the entire
>morning". He changed his mind. He emphasized that ***I*** was to do the
>work.

Okay, I've done this. When you're on site with no hole saw and you
need to improvise, this one works reasonably well.

Jeff


>"Joe Fabeitz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Me! Me! Pick Me!
>> "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > "Mike Reed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:[email protected]...
>> >
>> > > The best solution I read in the original thread was to cut the new
>> > > size hole in a scrap of plywood. Clamp this over the old hole, and use
>> > > it for a guide. Cut halfway through, then flip the door over and
>> > > repeat from the other side. You can ensure correct placement for the
>> > > back cut by placing alignment marks on some masking tape (new or old)
>> > > on the door edge and on the plywood, then matching them up on the
>> > > other side.
>> >
>> > A (very young) guy at Home Depot suggested that I just try and hold the
>> > larger hole saw really steady, and that hopefully, once it bit in 1/4"
>or
>> > so, the wood would guide it. Obviously, his dad never taught him the
>> meaning
>> > of "cob job". :-)
>> >
>> > I really appreciate all the GOOD suggestions here, by the way. Now, I'm
>> > waiting for the hardware store guy to key the new locks alike, and I'll
>> > select the most exciting idea from the list!
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>

"Jeff Cochran" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 02:19:32 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
>>Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
>>backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
>>the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
>>2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
>>guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
>>saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
>>elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>>
>>Anyone got a cool trick?
>
> Tack a 1/4" piece of plywood across the hole, use a hole saw to drill
> the new hole. Plywood acts as a guide, pull the tacks and a few tiny
> holes to putty and repaint.
>
> Jeff

Just *jam* a piece of wood in the hole. Drill your new hole.

I've done it, too. But I don't wanna do it again. Perhaps I should let my
son do it, though. He needs to learn.

"Jeff Cochran" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 12:09:57 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Worst idea so far - my son's. He suggested I try enlarging the hole with
a
> >curved rasp. I told him "knock yourself out - just set aside the entire
> >morning". He changed his mind. He emphasized that ***I*** was to do the
> >work.
>
> Okay, I've done this. When you're on site with no hole saw and you
> need to improvise, this one works reasonably well.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> >"Joe Fabeitz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Me! Me! Pick Me!
> >> "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >> > "Mike Reed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> > news:[email protected]...
> >> >
> >> > > The best solution I read in the original thread was to cut the new
> >> > > size hole in a scrap of plywood. Clamp this over the old hole, and
use
> >> > > it for a guide. Cut halfway through, then flip the door over and
> >> > > repeat from the other side. You can ensure correct placement for
the
> >> > > back cut by placing alignment marks on some masking tape (new or
old)
> >> > > on the door edge and on the plywood, then matching them up on the
> >> > > other side.
> >> >
> >> > A (very young) guy at Home Depot suggested that I just try and hold
the
> >> > larger hole saw really steady, and that hopefully, once it bit in
1/4"
> >or
> >> > so, the wood would guide it. Obviously, his dad never taught him the
> >> meaning
> >> > of "cob job". :-)
> >> >
> >> > I really appreciate all the GOOD suggestions here, by the way. Now,
I'm
> >> > waiting for the hardware store guy to key the new locks alike, and
I'll
> >> > select the most exciting idea from the list!
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
>

Use a 1-3/4" hole saw as guide and piggy back a 2-1/8" hole saw on top. This
trick I read it on a magazine this month.


"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
> Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
> Anyone got a cool trick?
>
>

Doug Kanter wrote:

> OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
> Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
> Anyone got a cool trick?
can you put a center guide bit in your hole saw? A long drill bit in the
hole saw that can reach the bottom of the existing hole to center it.

On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 02:19:32 GMT, Doug Kanter
<[email protected]> wrote:
> OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
> Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
> Anyone got a cool trick?
>
>

If the new hole is concentric with the old hole, any of the suggestions
given will work.

If they are not concentric, fill the old hole with catalyzed body
filler, I've done a single pour, but two if you want to sand less.

I've had the same problem replacing Dexter Locks with Baldwins. Our local
Ace Hardware Store has a kit that they rent out. It contains a large metal
jig that clamps to the door and a 2 1/8 inch forsner bit. Easy, fool proof
and fast. Takes about 4 minutes. They rent it out for about $20 for a
couple of hours and require a $200 deposit to make sure you use it and bring
it back.


"Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
> Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
> backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
> the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
> 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
> guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
> saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>
> Anyone got a cool trick?
>
>

[snip]
>>>> "Doug Kanter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>> OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to.
>>>>> I have a Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with
>>>>> a KwikSet. The backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is
>>>>> correct for Kwikset, but the hole's size is too small. It's about
>>>>> 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires 2-1/8". I've got the right size
>>>>> hole saw, but without solid wood for the guide bit, I can't see a
>>>>> way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber saw is a
>>>>> possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
>>>>> elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyone got a cool trick?
>>>>>
[snip]

I found the article, just a snippet, really - "The Family Handyman" October
2004. pp 19. It syas to use two hole saws, the pilot saw the same diameter
os the existing hole and the larger hole saw (the correct size) - install
both. Go slowly until the pilot saw aligns the larger.

Looks soooo easy,

Josie