"Fly-by-Night CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> With a hand-held circular saw the general advice is to have the good
> side down (your understanding of the mechanics is right on); with table
> saws you'd have the good side up.
> --
OK, thanks!
dwhite
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> And on the beadply, you may want to at least invest in a sharp blade for
> the circular saw. That should help, and not break the bank.
>
I got a 140 tooth blade, which cut a piece of ply like butter. Should work
well on the beadboard.
dwhite
Fly-by-Night CC <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Hi. I have to cut 4x8 sheets of beadboard with a fine toothed
>> circular saw. If I'm not mistaken the blade rotates from below the
>> sheet upward as I go forward (is this right?). Anyway, if I want a
>> clean cut on the front of the beadboard should I cut with it up or
>> down?
>
> With a hand-held circular saw the general advice is to have the good
> side down (your understanding of the mechanics is right on); with
> table saws you'd have the good side up.
A sheet of rigid foam insulation (sacrifical) under the sheet you're
cutting (then laid on the ground or floor) is said to help as well. The
beadply is then better supported, and less prone to splintering as well.
How's the deli coming?
Patriarch
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>> How's the deli coming?
>>
>> Patriarch
>
> Yes, I'd heard that one and then cheaped out as the foam was about
> $25. Maybe I wasn't looking at the right thing. I think I'll just
> try to cut it on a counter edge with some help holding the cutoff
> piece and see how that goes.
>
> Anyway I'm done with all the major cutting and screwing stuff. It is
> coming together very nicely if I say so. Maybe I'll post some pics if
> anyone cares. I have to warn you, though, to be prepared to see lots
> of heavily polyurethaned hard maple counters! I think they look
> great, and hopefully will stand up to normal wear and tear.
>
> thanks!
> dwhite
>
I never thought the poly was correctly a religious thing. It certainly has
its place, and kitchens are quite often that place.
There have been a number of active threads on kitchens lately, so I imagine
that there would be interest on your project as well.
And on the beadply, you may want to at least invest in a sharp blade for
the circular saw. That should help, and not break the bank.
Patriarch
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Fly-by-Night CC <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> Hi. I have to cut 4x8 sheets of beadboard with a fine toothed
> >> circular saw. If I'm not mistaken the blade rotates from below the
> >> sheet upward as I go forward (is this right?). Anyway, if I want a
> >> clean cut on the front of the beadboard should I cut with it up or
> >> down?
> >
> > With a hand-held circular saw the general advice is to have the good
> > side down (your understanding of the mechanics is right on); with
> > table saws you'd have the good side up.
>
> A sheet of rigid foam insulation (sacrifical) under the sheet you're
> cutting (then laid on the ground or floor) is said to help as well. The
> beadply is then better supported, and less prone to splintering as well.
>
> How's the deli coming?
>
> Patriarch
Yes, I'd heard that one and then cheaped out as the foam was about $25.
Maybe I wasn't looking at the right thing. I think I'll just try to cut
it on a counter edge with some help holding the cutoff piece and see how
that goes.
Anyway I'm done with all the major cutting and screwing stuff. It is coming
together very nicely if I say so. Maybe I'll post some pics if anyone
cares. I have to warn you, though, to be prepared to see lots of heavily
polyurethaned hard maple counters! I think they look great, and hopefully
will stand up to normal wear and tear.
thanks!
dwhite
In article <[email protected]>,
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi. I have to cut 4x8 sheets of beadboard with a fine toothed circular saw.
> If I'm not mistaken the blade rotates from below the sheet upward as I go
> forward (is this right?). Anyway, if I want a clean cut on the front of the
> beadboard should I cut with it up or down?
With a hand-held circular saw the general advice is to have the good
side down (your understanding of the mechanics is right on); with table
saws you'd have the good side up.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____
"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05