Restoring Antique Leather Chairs

Wreck only

On Tue, 14 Sep 2010 03:43:02 -0700 (PDT), Student
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I am looking for an advice on how to restore a set of six leather
>chairs. They were made in Vienna more than 100 years ago. I think it
>is a pigskin stretched over a wood frame and nailed on the outside of
>the chair frame with the decorative pins. I have posted some pictures
>at

Pigskin is generally thin and scarred. That is likely either thick
bull or buffalo leather, instead.


>http://s1179.photobucket.com/albums/x390/levis55/Antique%20Chairs/
>
>You can see that the leather is cracking, and seems to be
>deteriorating faster and faster, especially the seats. Please advise:

The leather has been allowed to dry out and break. It is now unstable,
and while you might make it softer with mink oil, the cracks and chips
are not repairable. Yer SOL, Sam.


>Can it be fixed, and how?

Yes, replace the old leather with new, complete with tooling.

--
Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins
when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in
order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary.
-- Peter Minard

In article
<9243b1f3-dc19-47c7-8f9c-425a6c5dad78@q18g2000vbm.googlegroups.com>,
Student <[email protected]> wrote:

> I am looking for an advice on how to restore a set of six leather
> chairs. They were made in Vienna more than 100 years ago. I think it
> is a pigskin stretched over a wood frame and nailed on the outside of
> the chair frame with the decorative pins. I have posted some pictures
> at
>
> http://s1179.photobucket.com/albums/x390/levis55/Antique%20Chairs/
>
> You can see that the leather is cracking, and seems to be
> deteriorating faster and faster, especially the seats. Please advise:
> Can it be fixed, and how?

I'm with Mr. Clarke. Have the chairs assessed by someone who
understands the restoration of antique furniture or risk destroying
their value.

In article
<[email protected]>,
Student <[email protected]> wrote:

> Hiring the specialist
> is not an option at this point either.

If you don't care about preserving the value then forego an opinion
from an expert and just do whatever you want.

On Sep 15, 4:15=A0am, Just Another Lurker <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 15/09/2010 01:22, CW wrote:
>
> >><[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> Chances are very good it isn't even leather, a number of these embosse=
d
> >> seats were actually a man made fiber material that resembles leather.
> > He did say they were over 100 years old. No such thing then as fake lea=
ther.
>
> You are confusing the word fake. Try imitation -"that which is made to
> resemble"- as in, simulate, mimic. Not necessarily for fraudulent
> purposes but for style and economical reasons. Of course, there were
> perfectly acceptable man made 19th products (and techniques) which
> resembled (simulated) leather.
>
> --
>
> Posted From rec.antiques

Artificial leather has been around for more than 100 years, according
to Wiki. It was used for lots of things - even the coverings on
things like suitcases and typewriter cases.....

N.

On Sep 16, 2:29=A0pm, "ChairMan" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Innews:925e0d30-ad40-49d5-b349-96ff6b6a1657@v23g2000vbi.googlegroups.com,
> Sonny <[email protected]> spewed forth:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sep 15, 11:22 pm, Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> For stability, hot glue should secure a tear. Place a good upholstery
> >> grade cloth under the tear, using a probe (regulator, in the
> >> upholstery business) to smoothen it out. Carefully insert hot glue.
> >> Do a practice application on some other item, as the hot glue can get
> >> stringy or mis-applied if you're not familiar with using it in tight
> >> places. Hot glue holds pretty well, as hot glue is often used for
> >> gimp trim and a few other places on furniture.
>
> >> Sonny
>
> > Addendum: =A0If you would like, I can possibly setup a hot glue
> > tutorial, via still pics, and email them to you, showing how I would
> > proceed with a tear repair. =A0I've never done a leather tear repair,
> > but if all you want is to stabilize the tear(s), I would think the hot
> > glue would work to some extent.
>
> > Sonny
>
> hot glue isn't going to work on leather

Which glue would you recommend? Have you tried "Vinyl & Leather
Mender"? Is there a contact cement you'd recommend - a leather cement?

> Chances are very good it isn't even leather, a number of these embossed
> seats were actually a man made fiber material that resembles leather.
> In any event click here for a source for both:http://www.vandykes.com/search/2/seat?brand=&color=&finish=&wood_type...

When I first read the post, before seeing the pics, I was thinking
oilcloth, as well as leather. Usually oilcloth is thin, but there are
examples of built-up applications. I'm not sure as to how thick
oilcloth might be formed (the carved/tooled look).

As an upholsterer, I, personally, wouldn't tool the leather. The
leather would be tooled by an appropriate leather craftsman, then I
would apply it to the chairs. It's not out of the question that some
upholsterers can tool leather, though.

Sonny

Student wrote:
> I am looking for an advice on how to restore a set of six leather
> chairs. They were made in Vienna more than 100 years ago. I think it
> is a pigskin stretched over a wood frame and nailed on the outside of
> the chair frame with the decorative pins. I have posted some pictures
> at
>
> http://s1179.photobucket.com/albums/x390/levis55/Antique%20Chairs/
>
> You can see that the leather is cracking, and seems to be
> deteriorating faster and faster, especially the seats. Please advise:
> Can it be fixed, and how?


Chances are very good it isn't even leather, a number of these embossed
seats were actually a man made fiber material that resembles leather.
In any event click here for a source for both:
http://www.vandykes.com/search/2/seat?brand=&color=&finish=&wood_type=&material=&height=&length=&width=&diameter=&depth=&sSearch=seat&items_per_page=8

Larry Jaques wrote:
> Wreck only
>
> On Tue, 14 Sep 2010 03:43:02 -0700 (PDT), Student
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I am looking for an advice on how to restore a set of six leather
>>chairs. They were made in Vienna more than 100 years ago. I think it
>>is a pigskin stretched over a wood frame and nailed on the outside of
>>the chair frame with the decorative pins. I have posted some pictures
>>at
>
>
> Pigskin is generally thin and scarred. That is likely either thick
> bull or buffalo leather, instead.
>
>
>
>>http://s1179.photobucket.com/albums/x390/levis55/Antique%20Chairs/
>>
>>You can see that the leather is cracking, and seems to be
>>deteriorating faster and faster, especially the seats. Please advise:
>
>
> The leather has been allowed to dry out and break. It is now unstable,
> and while you might make it softer with mink oil, the cracks and chips
> are not repairable. Yer SOL, Sam.
>
>
>
>>Can it be fixed, and how?
>
>
> Yes, replace the old leather with new, complete with tooling.
>

Van Dyke's Restorers is a possible source for replacement leather. See:

http://www.vandykes.com/product/unfinished-tapered-leather-chair-seat-with-dove

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]

CW wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Student wrote:
>>> I am looking for an advice on how to restore a set of six leather
>>> chairs. They were made in Vienna more than 100 years ago. I think it
>>> is a pigskin stretched over a wood frame and nailed on the outside of
>>> the chair frame with the decorative pins. I have posted some pictures
>>> at
>>>
>>> http://s1179.photobucket.com/albums/x390/levis55/Antique%20Chairs/
>>>
>>> You can see that the leather is cracking, and seems to be
>>> deteriorating faster and faster, especially the seats. Please advise:
>>> Can it be fixed, and how?
>>
>> Chances are very good it isn't even leather, a number of these embossed
>> seats were actually a man made fiber material that resembles leather.
>> In any event click here for a source for both:
>> http://www.vandykes.com/search/2/seat?brand=&color=&finish=&wood_type=&material=&height=&length=&width=&diameter=&depth=&sSearch=seat&items_per_page=8
>
> He did say they were over 100 years old. No such thing then as fake leather.
>
>


As a restorer of furniture since the 1960's I have to disagree, much
cheaper grade furniture sold in catalogs during the turn of the 19th
century used fake leather, but not likely used on these pieces. If I had
a dime for every one of them I tore the stuff off of I'd be a wealthy man.

From what I can see in the images the material used here is embossed,
the design is stamped with dies. Chairs like these tend to be 1880 to
Edwardian period pieces, but I've seen Spanish revival examples date
into the 1930's

On 15/09/2010 01:22, CW wrote:

>><[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Chances are very good it isn't even leather, a number of these embossed
>> seats were actually a man made fiber material that resembles leather.

> He did say they were over 100 years old. No such thing then as fake leather.
>


You are confusing the word fake. Try imitation -"that which is made to
resemble"- as in, simulate, mimic. Not necessarily for fraudulent
purposes but for style and economical reasons. Of course, there were
perfectly acceptable man made 19th products (and techniques) which
resembled (simulated) leather.


--

Posted From rec.antiques

"Student" wrote:
> I think I misused the word "restore". I am not in antiques neither
> as
business or hobby. What I really care the most is to stop further
deterioration.
------------------------------
There is no free lunch.

At a minimum, you need to get an opinion of a professional restorer.

If you pay for the opinion, you will be dealing ".. at arms length".

A good position in business affairs.

Lew

On 16/09/2010 12:16, J. Clarke wrote:

> If he just wants something to sit on perhaps he should sell his antique
> chairs to an antique dealer or someone else who cares about them as
> antiques and is willing and able to pay the cost of proper preservation
> and use the proceeds to buy some new chairs from Ikea or wherever (Ikea
> has perfectly serviceable chairs for 15 bucks--they're not fancy but
> they'll keep your butt off the floor).

"use the proceeds to buy some new chairs?"
Judging my the set of photos. IMHO - would doubt he may even get "15
bucks" for his "antique" chairs from the antiques trade

...... I'd say Ikea could be the better bet.


--
Posted from rec.antiques
Long Time Antique Dealer (now retired)

J. Clarke wrote:
> On 9/15/2010 7:50 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
>> In article
>> <[email protected]>,
>> Student<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Hiring the specialist
>>> is not an option at this point either.
>>
>> If you don't care about preserving the value then forego an opinion
>> from an expert and just do whatever you want.
>
> If he just wants something to sit on perhaps he should sell his antique
> chairs to an antique dealer or someone else who cares about them as
> antiques and is willing and able to pay the cost of proper preservation
> and use the proceeds to buy some new chairs from Ikea or wherever (Ikea
> has perfectly serviceable chairs for 15 bucks--they're not fancy but
> they'll keep your butt off the floor).


The chairs are not really all that old or rare, you can pick up
comparable sets of four for under $500.00 at auction.

J. Clarke wrote:
> On 9/15/2010 7:50 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
>> In article
>> <[email protected]>,
>> Student<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Hiring the specialist
>>> is not an option at this point either.
>>
>> If you don't care about preserving the value then forego an opinion
>> from an expert and just do whatever you want.
>
> If he just wants something to sit on perhaps he should sell his antique
> chairs to an antique dealer or someone else who cares about them as
> antiques and is willing and able to pay the cost of proper preservation
> and use the proceeds to buy some new chairs from Ikea or wherever (Ikea
> has perfectly serviceable chairs for 15 bucks--they're not fancy but
> they'll keep your butt off the floor).


The chairs are not really all that old or rare, you can pick up
comparable sets of four- six in excellent for under $500.00 at auction.

J. Clarke wrote:
> On 9/15/2010 7:50 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
>> In article
>> <[email protected]>,
>> Student<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Hiring the specialist
>>> is not an option at this point either.
>>
>> If you don't care about preserving the value then forego an opinion
>> from an expert and just do whatever you want.
>
> If he just wants something to sit on perhaps he should sell his antique
> chairs to an antique dealer or someone else who cares about them as
> antiques and is willing and able to pay the cost of proper preservation
> and use the proceeds to buy some new chairs from Ikea or wherever (Ikea
> has perfectly serviceable chairs for 15 bucks--they're not fancy but
> they'll keep your butt off the floor).


The chairs are not really all that old or rare, you can pick up
comparable sets of four- six in excellent shape for under $500.00 at
auction.

On 9/16/2010 2:28 PM godsword spake thus:

> Student wrote:
>
>> Which glue would you recommend? Have you tried "Vinyl & Leather
>> Mender"? Is there a contact cement you'd recommend - a leather cement?
>
> The Glue of choice for leather is, and has been for over 100 years,
> "Barge" cement. Used by Shoe repair and Shoe makers the world over.
> Also used to glue together leather belts used to drive machinery. It
> was formulated for that trade. It comes in 2 oz tubes, quarts and
> gallons. Every shoe repair shop has it. I buy it in the 2 oz tubes but
> if you have a shoe repair shop near you, perhaps they would just give
> you some.

Agree--Barge Cement is the stuff to use for leather goods.

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

Morgans wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote
>
>> The chairs are not really all that old or rare, you can pick up comparable
>> sets of four- six in excellent shape for under $500.00 at auction.
>
> How old are they, if they are not 100yrs old, like he said?


Like I said earlier, "Chairs like these tend to be 1880 to Edwardian
period pieces, but I've seen Spanish revival examples date into the
1930's" . Being 100 years old doesn't mean something is rare or
valuable, only old.

On Sep 15, 9:54=A0am, Nancy2 <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sep 15, 4:15=A0am, Just Another Lurker <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 15/09/2010 01:22, CW wrote:
>
> > >><[email protected]> wrote in message
> > >> Chances are very good it isn't even leather, a number of these embos=
sed
> > >> seats were actually a man made fiber material that resembles leather=
.
> > > He did say they were over 100 years old. No such thing then as fake l=
eather.
>
> > You are confusing the word fake. Try imitation -"that which is made to
> > resemble"- as in, simulate, mimic. Not necessarily for fraudulent
> > purposes but for style and economical reasons. Of course, there were
> > perfectly acceptable man made 19th products (and techniques) which
> > resembled (simulated) leather.
>
> > --
>
> > Posted From rec.antiques
>
> Artificial leather has been around for more than 100 years, according
> to Wiki. =A0It was used for lots of things - even the coverings on
> things like suitcases and typewriter cases.....
>
> N.

Thanks everyone for your opinions!

I think I misused the word "restore". I am not in antiques neither as
business or hobby. What I really care the most is to stop further
deterioration. It makes sense that saddle soap or mink oil would work
well on leather. But now you guys made me unsure if this is the
leather at all! How can I tell? The reason I thought it was a pigskin
is that on the surface there are miniature "holes" in lack of a better
word, typically found on pigskin.

Replacing the covering with the new leather is not an option at this
point, as we want to preserve the original look. Hiring the specialist
is not an option at this point either.

Last question: For the cracks, do you think I could carefully insert a
strip of cloth or thin leather so that it sits under both sides of the
crack, then apply appropriate glue. It may not restore it to the
original look, but should stop the crack from enlarging.

Thanks again!

That's some nice leather work. Too bad it's deteriorating.

An option, if you have the connections, which isn't difficult to
create, is to purchase some cowhide and have a prisoner tool the
leather. There are some excellent leather workers, mostly in state
prison (long-termers!), and cheap, too. Despite their social
condition, some prisoners are excellent service providers in certain
fields and their services are available to the general public, just
like any other service provider. Just because they are in prison,
doesn't mean they can't provide a service.

Some juvenile detention centers, more apt to be local, have inmates
that tool leather, also.

Sonny

On Sep 15, 11:22=A0pm, Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
> For stability, hot glue should secure a tear. =A0Place a good upholstery
> grade cloth under the tear, using a probe (regulator, in the
> upholstery business) to smoothen it out. =A0Carefully insert hot glue.
> Do =A0a practice application on some other item, as the hot glue can get
> stringy or mis-applied if you're not familiar with using it in tight
> places. =A0Hot glue holds pretty well, as hot glue is often used for
> gimp trim and a few other places on furniture.
>
> Sonny

Addendum: If you would like, I can possibly setup a hot glue
tutorial, via still pics, and email them to you, showing how I would
proceed with a tear repair. I've never done a leather tear repair,
but if all you want is to stabilize the tear(s), I would think the hot
glue would work to some extent.

Sonny

Student wrote:
> On Sep 16, 2:29 pm, "ChairMan" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Innews:925e0d30-ad40-49d5-b349-96ff6b6a1657@v23g2000vbi.googlegroups.com,
>> Sonny <[email protected]> spewed forth:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Sep 15, 11:22 pm, Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> For stability, hot glue should secure a tear. Place a good upholstery
>>>> grade cloth under the tear, using a probe (regulator, in the
>>>> upholstery business) to smoothen it out. Carefully insert hot glue.
>>>> Do a practice application on some other item, as the hot glue can get
>>>> stringy or mis-applied if you're not familiar with using it in tight
>>>> places. Hot glue holds pretty well, as hot glue is often used for
>>>> gimp trim and a few other places on furniture.
>>>> Sonny
>>> Addendum: If you would like, I can possibly setup a hot glue
>>> tutorial, via still pics, and email them to you, showing how I would
>>> proceed with a tear repair. I've never done a leather tear repair,
>>> but if all you want is to stabilize the tear(s), I would think the hot
>>> glue would work to some extent.
>>> Sonny
>> hot glue isn't going to work on leather
>
> Which glue would you recommend? Have you tried "Vinyl & Leather
> Mender"? Is there a contact cement you'd recommend - a leather cement?


The Glue of choice for leather is, and has been for over 100 years,
"Barge" cement. Used by Shoe repair and Shoe makers the world over.
Also used to glue together leather belts used to drive machinery. It
was formulated for that trade. It comes in 2 oz tubes, quarts and
gallons. Every shoe repair shop has it. I buy it in the 2 oz tubes but
if you have a shoe repair shop near you, perhaps they would just give
you some.

Jack

<[email protected]> wrote

> The chairs are not really all that old or rare, you can pick up comparable
> sets of four- six in excellent shape for under $500.00 at auction.

How old are they, if they are not 100yrs old, like he said?
--
Jim in NC

On Sep 14, 5:43=A0am, Student <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am looking for an advice on how to restore a set of six leather
> chairs. They were made in Vienna more than 100 years ago. I think it
> is a pigskin stretched over a wood frame and nailed on the outside of
> the chair frame with the decorative pins. I have posted some pictures
> at
>
> http://s1179.photobucket.com/albums/x390/levis55/Antique%20Chairs/
>
> You can see that the leather is cracking, and seems to be
> deteriorating faster and faster, especially the seats. Please advise:
> Can it be fixed, and how?

I don't know anything about proper restoration, BUT - leather is
organic, and once it starts tearing, peeling or cracking, there's no
way to "put it back" to its original look. An expert could tell you
how to keep it from deteriorating further - simple massage with saddle
soap would be my first move, but that might not be the best thing.

N.

On Sep 14, 2:46=A0pm, Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Chances are very good it isn't even leather, a number of these embossed
> > seats were actually a man made fiber material that resembles leather.
> > In any event click here for a source for both:http://www.vandykes.com/s=
earch/2/seat?brand=3D&color=3D&finish=3D&wood_type...
>
> When I first read the post, before seeing the pics, I was thinking
> oilcloth, as well as leather. =A0Usually oilcloth is thin, but there are
> examples of built-up applications. =A0I'm not sure as to how thick
> oilcloth might be formed (the carved/tooled look).
>
> As an upholsterer, I, personally, wouldn't tool the leather. =A0The
> leather would be tooled by an appropriate leather craftsman, then I
> would apply it to the chairs. =A0It's not out of the question that some
> upholsterers can tool leather, though.
>
> Sonny

Based on some of the deterioration shown in the pics, I think it is
leather - when the surface deteriorates, you get that powder-like
reddish substance - almost like sawdust - in the next layer down. I
can see that plainly in one picture. Oilcloth or turn of the (20th)
century fake leather wouldn't be thick enough for tooling, in my
opinion, nor do I think it would hold the pattern because even with
layers, the backing is fabric of some kind. I've tooled leather in my
time, but not any fake substance.

N.

<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Student wrote:
>> I am looking for an advice on how to restore a set of six leather
>> chairs. They were made in Vienna more than 100 years ago. I think it
>> is a pigskin stretched over a wood frame and nailed on the outside of
>> the chair frame with the decorative pins. I have posted some pictures
>> at
>>
>> http://s1179.photobucket.com/albums/x390/levis55/Antique%20Chairs/
>>
>> You can see that the leather is cracking, and seems to be
>> deteriorating faster and faster, especially the seats. Please advise:
>> Can it be fixed, and how?
>
>
> Chances are very good it isn't even leather, a number of these embossed
> seats were actually a man made fiber material that resembles leather.
> In any event click here for a source for both:
> http://www.vandykes.com/search/2/seat?brand=&color=&finish=&wood_type=&material=&height=&length=&width=&diameter=&depth=&sSearch=seat&items_per_page=8

He did say they were over 100 years old. No such thing then as fake leather.

For stability, hot glue should secure a tear. Place a good upholstery
grade cloth under the tear, using a probe (regulator, in the
upholstery business) to smoothen it out. Carefully insert hot glue.
Do a practice application on some other item, as the hot glue can get
stringy or mis-applied if you're not familiar with using it in tight
places. Hot glue holds pretty well, as hot glue is often used for
gimp trim and a few other places on furniture.

Sonny

Addendum: .... Then get an upholsterer to reupholster the leather onto
the chairs.

Sonny

On 9/14/2010 6:43 AM, Student wrote:
> I am looking for an advice on how to restore a set of six leather
> chairs. They were made in Vienna more than 100 years ago. I think it
> is a pigskin stretched over a wood frame and nailed on the outside of
> the chair frame with the decorative pins. I have posted some pictures
> at
>
> http://s1179.photobucket.com/albums/x390/levis55/Antique%20Chairs/
>
> You can see that the leather is cracking, and seems to be
> deteriorating faster and faster, especially the seats. Please advise:
> Can it be fixed, and how?

If you care about the antique value, hire a specialist. While I'm big
on DIY for most things, restoring antiques is one of those jobs where
specialized knowledge and skills are needed and there's no do-over.

Student wrote:
...

> ... How can I tell? The reason I thought it was a pigskin
> is that on the surface there are miniature "holes" in lack of a better
> word, typically found on pigskin.

Well, I'd surely think a minute inspection of the cracking would reveal
clues of sufficient indication to tell whether it was/is actually
leather or not...
>
> Replacing the covering with the new leather is not an option at this
> point, as we want to preserve the original look. Hiring the specialist
> is not an option at this point either.

One gets what one pays (or chooses not to pay) for is generally good
thing to remember.

> Last question: For the cracks, do you think I could carefully insert a
> strip of cloth or thin leather so that it sits under both sides of the
> crack, then apply appropriate glue. It may not restore it to the
> original look, but should stop the crack from enlarging.
...

Then, otoh, how much are you willing to risk that it may cause a
complete failure by creating a mismatched stress point that doesn't give
compared to the old material surrounding it?

I've paid essentially no attention to this thread, but the above caught
my eye and couldn't let it go...

If this piece has any value at all, it would be desecration at about its
worst possible incarnation to do such butchery to it.

--

On 9/15/2010 7:50 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
> In article
> <[email protected]>,
> Student<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Hiring the specialist
>> is not an option at this point either.
>
> If you don't care about preserving the value then forego an opinion
> from an expert and just do whatever you want.

If he just wants something to sit on perhaps he should sell his antique
chairs to an antique dealer or someone else who cares about them as
antiques and is willing and able to pay the cost of proper preservation
and use the proceeds to buy some new chairs from Ikea or wherever (Ikea
has perfectly serviceable chairs for 15 bucks--they're not fancy but
they'll keep your butt off the floor).

Wreck only

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 17:50:25 -0600, Dave Balderstone
<dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote:

>In article
><[email protected]>,
>Student <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Hiring the specialist
>> is not an option at this point either.
>
>If you don't care about preserving the value then forego an opinion
>from an expert and just do whatever you want.

Right. He can buy the leather, learn leather working/tooling/carving,
and do it himself. Much, much cheaper. May take awhile, though.

--
Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins
when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in
order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary.
-- Peter Minard

In news:925e0d30-ad40-49d5-b349-96ff6b6a1657@v23g2000vbi.googlegroups.com,
Sonny <[email protected]> spewed forth:
> On Sep 15, 11:22 pm, Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>> For stability, hot glue should secure a tear. Place a good upholstery
>> grade cloth under the tear, using a probe (regulator, in the
>> upholstery business) to smoothen it out. Carefully insert hot glue.
>> Do a practice application on some other item, as the hot glue can get
>> stringy or mis-applied if you're not familiar with using it in tight
>> places. Hot glue holds pretty well, as hot glue is often used for
>> gimp trim and a few other places on furniture.
>>
>> Sonny
>
> Addendum: If you would like, I can possibly setup a hot glue
> tutorial, via still pics, and email them to you, showing how I would
> proceed with a tear repair. I've never done a leather tear repair,
> but if all you want is to stabilize the tear(s), I would think the hot
> glue would work to some extent.
>
> Sonny

hot glue isn't going to work on leather