I've just about completed the high chair I've been working on and tell the
truth I've nervous about the finish. It's looking good with it's rock maple
and walnut accents and I'd hate to mess it up. It needs a good durable
finish that's easy to clean up. I need something fool proof since this
isn't the time to experiment. Any suggestions? Remember, baby, food, easily
cleaned.
--
"If you are arrogant, who's going to care if you're the best?"
On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 17:46:13 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Patrick Olguin wrote:
>
>> Someone else mentioned that this is the time to experiement. I agree.
>> Get a piece of maple and sand/plane it just the way you did the high
>> chair, and then execute the complete finishing schedule. I used to be
>> deathly afraid of finishing and then I dunno... I just changed my
>> attitude about it and adopted it as every bit as interesting as the
>> rest of the woodDorking hobby (shaping, planing, sawing, etc.)
>
>After you sand/plane the piece of scrap, run some shallow table saw kerfs,
>making several areas you can finish independently without the finishes
>intermingling. I did this for SWMBO -- put a different finish on each of
>the 4 sections and let her choose what she wanted. ;-)
>
> -- Mark
>
Great point.
I'd like to add that writing each finishing step on the back of the
test board is also a good idea. Having the steps written down makes
problem solving or repeating the success much easier.
Barry
mel wrote:
> I've just about completed the high chair I've been working on and tell the
> truth I've nervous about the finish. It's looking good with it's rock maple
> and walnut accents and I'd hate to mess it up. It needs a good durable
> finish that's easy to clean up. I need something fool proof since this
> isn't the time to experiment. Any suggestions? Remember, baby, food, easily
> cleaned.
>
> --
> "If you are arrogant, who's going to care if you're the best?"
My choice in this instance would be several coats of a wipe on poly.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
"mel" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I've just about completed the high chair I've been working on and tell the
> truth I've nervous about the finish. It's looking good with it's rock maple
> and walnut accents and I'd hate to mess it up. It needs a good durable
> finish that's easy to clean up. I need something fool proof since this
> isn't the time to experiment. Any suggestions? Remember, baby, food, easily
> cleaned.
Someone else mentioned that this is the time to experiement. I agree.
Get a piece of maple and sand/plane it just the way you did the high
chair, and then execute the complete finishing schedule. I used to be
deathly afraid of finishing and then I dunno... I just changed my
attitude about it and adopted it as every bit as interesting as the
rest of the woodDorking hobby (shaping, planing, sawing, etc.)
I'd be inclined to use shellac, with either boiled linseed oil (BLO)
or walnut oil as an undercoat. BLO gives a bit darker amber hue.
Thin the oil 1:1 with turpentine or mineral spirits, wipe it on and
then wipe off all you can, pretty much immediately. Use a 1.5# cut of
shellac (you can use pre-mixed stuff like SealCoat - by Zinsser, and
cut 1:1 with alcohol or mix your own using flakes) and wipe it on with
a rag. Someone else mentioned books by Jeff Jewitt. I second that.
Now, there's a reason to use shellac on something like a high chair.
Dewaxed shellac (as in either flakes or the Zinsser SealCoat) isn't
bothered by water or baby food. It's much more durable than oil/wax,
and ridiculously easy to repair. It's also foolproof to apply. If
you hose it up, you can simply strip it off with alcohol. Simple!
The fact is, there are no invincible finishes, and so anyhting you
choose is a compromise. My experience as a (former) finish supplier
has made me a firm believer in repairability being a huge
consideration when contemplating a finish.
For lots more, try googling on "shellac rub-out" "shellac brushing"
and so on.
My two cents.
O'Deen
Patrick Olguin wrote:
> Someone else mentioned that this is the time to experiement. I agree.
> Get a piece of maple and sand/plane it just the way you did the high
> chair, and then execute the complete finishing schedule. I used to be
> deathly afraid of finishing and then I dunno... I just changed my
> attitude about it and adopted it as every bit as interesting as the
> rest of the woodDorking hobby (shaping, planing, sawing, etc.)
After you sand/plane the piece of scrap, run some shallow table saw kerfs,
making several areas you can finish independently without the finishes
intermingling. I did this for SWMBO -- put a different finish on each of
the 4 sections and let her choose what she wanted. ;-)
-- Mark
I'll second that. I suck at finishing and this one works for me.
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." <[email protected]> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> Suggestion #2: Reread #1. <G>
>
> I'd go with a high-quality, urethane product thinned 50/50 and wiped
> on. Waterlox's Urethane Varnish comes to mind. Woodcraft sells it at
> $18-20 qt. At times, you may need to do everything short of hose this
> thing down, so I'd stay away from finishes that are easily damaged by
> wet sponges and cleaning products.
>
> Barry
>
>
Done a little bit of finishing. If you are reticent about the finishing
process, I would go with wipe on poly or oil and wax finish. The poly is
tough but hard to repair; the oil is easy to repair but not as tough. Both
are easy to apply - no brainers.
My favorite oil is - http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/varnish.htm and
yes, I get $15 for every recommendation.
Preston
"mel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've just about completed the high chair I've been working on and tell the
> truth I've nervous about the finish. It's looking good with it's rock
maple
> and walnut accents and I'd hate to mess it up. It needs a good durable
> finish that's easy to clean up. I need something fool proof since this
> isn't the time to experiment. Any suggestions? Remember, baby, food,
easily
> cleaned.
>
> --
> "If you are arrogant, who's going to care if you're the best?"
>
>
I'm afraid I have to buck the trend here. I'd go with a Danish oil and paste
wax finish.
Fool proof to apply and rejuvenate. If you don't let the collateral damage a
rug rat can cause when eating, splashes, food shrapnel, etc. sit for hours
it won't cause any damage to the finish that can't be easily repaired with a
new coat of wax or oil. Get it right off and just a rewax of the eating
surface once and awhile should suffice..
No guarantees of course and I can't deny that a varnish would be far more
bullet proof but harder to apply but it is the way I would go.
Note, I've had five of my own and a grand child.
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"mel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've just about completed the high chair I've been working on and tell the
> truth I've nervous about the finish. It's looking good with it's rock
maple
> and walnut accents and I'd hate to mess it up. It needs a good durable
> finish that's easy to clean up. I need something fool proof since this
> isn't the time to experiment. Any suggestions? Remember, baby, food,
easily
> cleaned.
>
> --
> "If you are arrogant, who's going to care if you're the best?"
>
>
On Sun, 16 Nov 2003 14:21:56 GMT, "mel"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I've just about completed the high chair I've been working on and tell the
>truth I've nervous about the finish. It's looking good with it's rock maple
>and walnut accents and I'd hate to mess it up. It needs a good durable
>finish that's easy to clean up. I need something fool proof since this
>isn't the time to experiment. Any suggestions?
Suggestion #1: Practice on scrap material left over from the project
Suggestion #2: Reread #1. <G>
I'd go with a high-quality, urethane product thinned 50/50 and wiped
on. Waterlox's Urethane Varnish comes to mind. Woodcraft sells it at
$18-20 qt. At times, you may need to do everything short of hose this
thing down, so I'd stay away from finishes that are easily damaged by
wet sponges and cleaning products.
Barry
"mel" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I've just about completed the high chair I've been working on and tell the
> truth I've nervous about the finish. It's looking good with it's rock maple
> and walnut accents and I'd hate to mess it up. It needs a good durable
> finish that's easy to clean up. I need something fool proof since this
> isn't the time to experiment. Any suggestions? Remember, baby, food, easily
> cleaned.
OOOH! OOOH! Polyurethane has it!
Larry? <g>
Killers by day, lovers by night, drunkards by choice--but Marines, by God.
-Phil Crow
"mel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I need something fool proof since this isn't the time to experiment.
I disagree, this IS the time to experiment, just not on the project. Test
your finish and technique on scrap first. Plan your approach to your
project carefully before you begin. And take your time when you do the
application. A couple hours with a good book on finishing (e.g. Jewitt's
book) now will make you a lot more comfortable.
For your project, I'd go with thinned poly.
And, most importantly, devise some sort of seatbelt. You'll be amazed how
the little ones can wiggle and squirm and dive off high chairs.
-JBB
B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote:
> $18-20 qt. At times, you may need to do everything short of hose this
> thing down, so I'd stay away from finishes that are easily damaged by
> wet sponges and cleaning products.
*Short* of hose it down? Been awhile since you had babies, hasn't it? :)
Sometimes you'll have to get the fire department to come out with one of
their big hoses just to get the crud off the thing. :)
I'd definitely go with some kind of indestructible, high quality poly also.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
wipe on poly
"mel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've just about completed the high chair I've been working on and tell the
> truth I've nervous about the finish. It's looking good with it's rock
maple
> and walnut accents and I'd hate to mess it up. It needs a good durable
> finish that's easy to clean up. I need something fool proof since this
> isn't the time to experiment. Any suggestions? Remember, baby, food,
easily
> cleaned.
>
> --
> "If you are arrogant, who's going to care if you're the best?"
>
>
I disagree with the wipe on poly. I made a high chair and put at least 8
coats of wipe on poly on it and the kid is 22 months old and the high chair
looks like crap. I'm going to refinish it when the kid is out of it so his
parents can keep it as an heirloom. Stay away from wipe on poly for the high
chair.
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> mel wrote:
>
> > I've just about completed the high chair I've been working on and tell
the
> > truth I've nervous about the finish. It's looking good with it's rock
maple
> > and walnut accents and I'd hate to mess it up. It needs a good durable
> > finish that's easy to clean up. I need something fool proof since this
> > isn't the time to experiment. Any suggestions? Remember, baby, food,
easily
> > cleaned.
> >
> > --
> > "If you are arrogant, who's going to care if you're the best?"
>
> My choice in this instance would be several coats of a wipe on poly.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
>
>
Silvan wrote:
> *Short* of hose it down? Been awhile since you had babies, hasn't
> it? :) Sometimes you'll have to get the fire department to come out
> with one of their big hoses just to get the crud off the thing. :)
My folks tell me they put me and the highchair in the tub to make cleanup
easier. <g>
-- Mark