Dd

Doug

17/07/2003 7:41 AM

Drying Large Maple Crosscut

Hi Folks,

I've got a large cross cut of maple (22" by 13" high) that I just got
my hands on which is destined to be a butcher block ... someday.

A few questions that I hope someone might know the answers to ...

- What would be the best way to dry it so it doesn't crack?

- I'll likely turn the wood into 2 butcher blocks, each 6 inches high.
Will it make a big difference in drying time if I cut the wood now, or
wait until it's dryed out?

- I've read in some posts that I should paint the grain ends of the
wood to prevent it from drying too fast. Is this true?

- Last but not least ... should I remove the bark now, or wait until
it's all dried out?

Thanks a bunch ...

Doug.


This topic has 4 replies

Gs

"George"

in reply to Doug on 17/07/2003 7:41 AM

17/07/2003 9:20 PM

Get newsprint and stack it under, between, and over the pieces. Keep the
whole out of direct sun and keep it cool. Change the funky newsprint after
about 3-5 days, another seven, another ten, and then at maybe another two
weeks to keep the mildew to a minimum. The stuff about an inch per year
does not apply to endgrain, which loses water probably ten times faster than
the face grain on a board.

Old cruiser friend of mine had sheds full of slabs and burls treated this
way. Of course, some cracked.

"Doug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do you know of any places that carry their products? All I could find
> at the depot and local stores were products that were just a tad too
> toxic. I've also read the latex paint can be used (the ends will be
> trimmed later anyway). Think that would be ok?
>

LZ

Luigi Zanasi

in reply to Doug on 17/07/2003 7:41 AM

17/07/2003 2:59 PM

On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:28:17 GMT, Doug <[email protected]> scribbled

>Hi Tom,
>
>>checking (cracks)You can use anything from paste wax to specialty
>>products (Lee Valley sells an end grain sealer)
>
>Do you know of any places that carry their products? All I could find
>at the depot and local stores were products that were just a tad too
>toxic. I've also read the latex paint can be used (the ends will be
>trimmed later anyway). Think that would be ok?
<snip>
>Ajax here. All that heat last summer and the nasty winter didn't
>cause you any grief?

LVT stores in TO area:

1275 Morningside Ave., (416)286-7574
Scarberia
Northeast corner of Sheppard and Morningside

5701 Steeles Ave. W., (416)746-0850
Weston
Pine Valley exit south off Hwy 407

3060 Davidson Court (905)319-9110
Burlington
North of Q.E.W. off Guelph Line

You lucky b...
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address

Dd

Doug

in reply to Doug on 17/07/2003 7:41 AM

17/07/2003 7:57 AM

Whoops, one more question ....

Would it be best to dry the wood indoors (basement) or outside
(garage). Living in the Toronto, Ontario area, so the winters have
been getting pretty cold lately .. if that makes a difference.


Doug.

Dd

Doug

in reply to Doug on 17/07/2003 7:41 AM

17/07/2003 5:28 PM

Hi Tom,

>checking (cracks)You can use anything from paste wax to specialty
>products (Lee Valley sells an end grain sealer)

Do you know of any places that carry their products? All I could find
at the depot and local stores were products that were just a tad too
toxic. I've also read the latex paint can be used (the ends will be
trimmed later anyway). Think that would be ok?

>- beter to rough cut it now and let it dry. The other option is to get
>it kiln dried.

I've heard of that (kiln drying) but don't have a clue where in the TO
area someone can get stuff kiln dried. Hunted through the ol' yellow
pages to no avail. Have you run into any?

>4) Finally, I'm up in Richmond Hill and I left mine out in the shed to
>dry. Took a little longer, but I just do not have the room in the

Ajax here. All that heat last summer and the nasty winter didn't
cause you any grief?

I've got enough room in the basement to store the pieces, so if
indoors would be better .... I'm game.

Thanks for all the info!

Doug.


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