Removing the blade guard and anti-kickback knife on a table saw seem like
you are just asking for trouble. I realize this is the only way that you
can use a dado blade in your saw though. Any thoughts on this. That big
blade spinning around with no covering is very menacing looking. Anyone
have experience with safer ways to make dado's & rabbits, like with a
router?
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You kept all the scale off that old water heater's elements? If not,
your
> figures are skewed. Old was at its worst, new now at best. We just
> replaced ours, and it was amazing what the old elements looked like. As
> cheap as they are, I think it might be worth replacing the lower every two
> or so years.
Scale nothing, in 2 years time the water heater would fill with lime and
calcuim to the point that the element could be pulled out after unscrewing
it. My was a single element that was long and curved. I suspect this kept
the water from circulating properly and it effectively worked like a 10 or
15 gallon unit with a 50 gallon heating element. In the end It was tripping
its internal breaker monthly. I kinda had suspitions that theis was part of
the problem but never realized that it was costing me an additional $13 to
$18 per month.
> Best energy saver I've found are drapes. Up here the coldest days are the
> clearest, so the drapes open to collect heat. Closed now against the
same.
> Wonder what effect the new low transmission glass would have, though.
I live in Houston TX, so cold is not a real on going problem. I do have
storm windows and realized a 10% reduction in my electric bill right away
after they were installed 10 years ago. But, this was a $5,000 investment
vs. the $300 water heater investment. I doubt that I wall see a savings
fron the windows considering theri cost. We appreciat the storm windows
more for having a quieter house, no dust on the window sills, and no drafts
near the windows anymore. I recently built a storage building in my back
yard and used radient barrier decking for the roof. It is amazing that the
closed up room does not get any hotter than the outside of the building.
That cost me an additional $24 over the regular cost of plain plywood
decking. Additionally I did not use tar paper behind the siding, I used
Tyvec which is a woven plastic water barrier that permits air travel one
way. This does not get hot like the black tar paper will and has no odor
like tar paper does. That cost about $50 more than regular tar paper.
"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> There used to be video of Pat Warner doing a similar procedure, on the FWW
> site. Made it pretty clear how this works safely.
Exactly, I have seen it, he uses a square IIRC to align 1 guide board and
uses the sample piece to locate the second board.
> That said, the appropriate manner of dado cutting certainly depends on the
> task(s) at hand. I'm glad to have several methods, and tools, available
to
> me.
My jig has limits in that it will allow cross cut dado's up to about 24".
If you want several grooves down the length of a 6' board the stacked dado
blade might be a better choice.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Looking at that jig, I'm wondering if it would even be necessary to have a
> slot in the bottom boards? Wouldn't a simple bolt hole suffice and width
> adjustment be handled by skewing the setup? Worst case scenario, if the
> holes in the bottom boards didn't work out, then one could cut the needed
> slots. But, Leon's setup does look much cleaner. It's quite the neat jig
> actually.
> Thanks.
Although the single hole and the skewing to change width is an interesting
idea, the slots in the bottom enable the jig to change cutting widths and
the top slots allow the user to tighten each side of the "T" to the edges of
the board to receive the dado. This in effect squares the jig to the work
and insures that the dado is cut at a 90 degree angle to the edge of the
work.
"philly45" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Removing the blade guard and anti-kickback knife on a table saw seem like
> you are just asking for trouble. I realize this is the only way that you
> can use a dado blade in your saw though. Any thoughts on this. That big
> blade spinning around with no covering is very menacing looking. Anyone
> have experience with safer ways to make dado's & rabbits, like with a
> router?
Yes it is dangerous! But a necessary evil.
If you want some type of protection when using a dado set, then you really
need an overhead guard.
This will at least hopefully remind you not to put your hands near the
blade.
Another option is the GRR-Ripper. It can be used to provide further
protection when working with exposed blades.
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/grr-ripper.htm
You can of course use a router, but it takes a lot longer and can be more
hassle if you do not have a wide variety of router bits to get the width you
need relatively quickly.
--
Regards,
Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
Over 50 woodworking product reviews online!
------------------------------------------------------------
Latest 6 Reviews:
- Kreg Universal Bench Klamp
- GRR-Ripper System & MJ Splitter
- Spaceage Ceramic Bandsaw Guides
- Infinity "Dadonator" Stacked Dado Set
- GMC LS950SPJ Scrolling Jigsaw
- Triton Powered Respirator
------------------------------------------------------------
You kept all the scale off that old water heater's elements? If not, your
figures are skewed. Old was at its worst, new now at best. We just
replaced ours, and it was amazing what the old elements looked like. As
cheap as they are, I think it might be worth replacing the lower every two
or so years.
Best energy saver I've found are drapes. Up here the coldest days are the
clearest, so the drapes open to collect heat. Closed now against the same.
Wonder what effect the new low transmission glass would have, though.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> On another note, I watched my house being built back in 1981 and have
lived
> here since. I replaced the original electric water heater last September.
> I bought a top of the line Whirlpool. Comparing the energy usage of it
and
> my old unit indicated to me if my old unit was operating at peek effecency
> the new water heater would pay for itself in 3 years. I watch my
> electricity usage like a hawk and have done so for the last 12 year or so.
> Anyway since the month that I installed the new water heater every month
> except 1 has resulted in less electrity usage. In the last 9 month I have
> used 11% less electricity compared to the same 9 months of the previous
year
> and up until that point my usage was increasing at about 2 or 3% per year
> for the last 4 years. Now I figure the new water heater will pay for
itself
> in another 9 to 12 months.
>
>
>
>
Texas? Limestone country. Sounds like you should be a twice-a-year flush
versus annual.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
>
> "George" <george@least> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > You kept all the scale off that old water heater's elements? If not,
> your
> > figures are skewed. Old was at its worst, new now at best. We just
> > replaced ours, and it was amazing what the old elements looked like. As
> > cheap as they are, I think it might be worth replacing the lower every
two
> > or so years.
>
> Scale nothing, in 2 years time the water heater would fill with lime and
> calcuim to the point that the element could be pulled out after unscrewing
> it. My was a single element that was long and curved. I suspect this
kept
> the water from circulating properly and it effectively worked like a 10 or
> 15 gallon unit with a 50 gallon heating element. In the end It was
tripping
> its internal breaker monthly. I kinda had suspitions that theis was part
of
> the problem but never realized that it was costing me an additional $13 to
> $18 per month.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "philly45" wrote in message
> > Removing the blade guard and anti-kickback knife on a table saw seem like
> > you are just asking for trouble. I realize this is the only way that you
> > can use a dado blade in your saw though. Any thoughts on this. That big
> > blade spinning around with no covering is very menacing looking. Anyone
> > have experience with safer ways to make dado's & rabbits, like with a
> > router?
>
Semi-newb here... I recently used my router table for dado and rabbet
work. The results were great. I will continue to do them in this
manner. It did feel a bit safer, but I bet a router injury would be
just as painful as a TS injury. The safest accurate way is probably
with a dado plane.
I suspect the vast majority of people who use a TS and stack for
dadoes do so because of the TS fence and weight. I've used a stack
for dados too, but my stack was a cheapy and now is dull.
I haven't made a hand held router dado jig, but I would make a double
sided one so I won't ruin a board if it drifts. I am interested how
everyone measures dado locations. Do you measure to the center, top,
or bottom of a dado? IE How can you get precise shelf arrangement top
to bottom?
SS
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:z_WIc.15043
> Actually there are washers under the wing nuts. The wing nuts, washers,
and
> bolts are 5/16" sized. I wanted them to be finger friendly. If you look
> very closely at the top middle picture you can see the washers.
Well, however it's constructed, it's a good practical jig if I've ever seen
one. I'm sure there must be a commercial version similar in construction
around somewhere, I'm just surprised I haven't seen one before. Maybe I need
to get out more. :)
Hard to tell from the pictures. Is it made out of plywood to eliminate
chances of warping, or did you consider it unnecessary to consider a
particular type of wood to minimize the chances of it happening?
On Tue, 13 Jul 2004 01:14:07 GMT, "philly45"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Removing the blade guard and anti-kickback knife on a table saw seem like
>you are just asking for trouble. I realize this is the only way that you
>can use a dado blade in your saw though. Any thoughts on this. That big
>blade spinning around with no covering is very menacing looking. Anyone
>have experience with safer ways to make dado's & rabbits, like with a
>router?
>
Use feather boards to hold the work piece in place and use push
sticks. Stand off to one side while pushing the work piece through.
Thunder
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, however it's constructed, it's a good practical jig if I've ever
seen
> one. I'm sure there must be a commercial version similar in construction
> around somewhere, I'm just surprised I haven't seen one before. Maybe I
need
> to get out more. :)
Thank you ... I'm getting all red in the face here... Shucks. I have never
seen a comertial one quite this simple. I confess that I mixed about 5 or 6
ideas together about 4 years ago to end up with this design. Originally I
used a guide bushing and common straight bit but with errors that can stack
up there I later and by Earl Creels suggestion opted for the Top bearing
flush trim bit. It seems that Morris may have still a better plan to use
Aluminum angle stock to edge the guide arms and not use a flust trim bit at
all. I am waithing for his details on this.
>
> Hard to tell from the pictures. Is it made out of plywood to eliminate
> chances of warping, or did you consider it unnecessary to consider a
> particular type of wood to minimize the chances of it happening?
>
1/2" Baltic Birch 9 ply. I wanted it to be stable and last.
Since none of the dimensions are really critical as long as the clamps or
bolts do not interfere with the path of the router I would advise to make
the shorter "T" end of each half out of a wider piece of stock. Maybe 6"
wide. I think mine are 3 or 4 inches. The router bit does cut in to the T
as it exits the wood being cut. A wider T would IMHO add a little strength
to the end of the T that the bolt goes through. The hardest part of making
this jig was to insure that each half was assembled squarely.
On 13 Jul 2004 06:52:30 -0700, [email protected] (Sam Schmenk) wrote:
>"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> "philly45" wrote in message
>> > Removing the blade guard and anti-kickback knife on a table saw seem like
>> > you are just asking for trouble. I realize this is the only way that you
>> > can use a dado blade in your saw though. Any thoughts on this. That big
>> > blade spinning around with no covering is very menacing looking. Anyone
>> > have experience with safer ways to make dado's & rabbits, like with a
>> > router?
>>
>Semi-newb here... I recently used my router table for dado and rabbet
>work. The results were great. I will continue to do them in this
>manner. It did feel a bit safer, but I bet a router injury would be
>just as painful as a TS injury.
router injuries tend to involve the rapid conversion of chunks of
flesh into hamburger. DAMHIKT.
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I haven't tried to track the photovoltaic panel developments very
> closely. As of the last time I took a serious look they were
> still fairly pricey, weren't anywhere near as efficient as they
> needed to become, and (if my understanding was correct) they
> produced less and less power as they age.
That seems to be the problem with systems such as this. I got pricing
somewhere and a system to handle my needs would pay for it self in about 10
years. With deminishing effeciency that could equate to never.
On another note, I watched my house being built back in 1981 and have lived
here since. I replaced the original electric water heater last September.
I bought a top of the line Whirlpool. Comparing the energy usage of it and
my old unit indicated to me if my old unit was operating at peek effecency
the new water heater would pay for itself in 3 years. I watch my
electricity usage like a hawk and have done so for the last 12 year or so.
Anyway since the month that I installed the new water heater every month
except 1 has resulted in less electrity usage. In the last 9 month I have
used 11% less electricity compared to the same 9 months of the previous year
and up until that point my usage was increasing at about 2 or 3% per year
for the last 4 years. Now I figure the new water heater will pay for itself
in another 9 to 12 months.
Leon wrote:
> "Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> I recall back in the early 80's those passive solar heaters
> were the in thing for helping the water heater in the Houston
> area. They came and went. Most of them were mounted on the
> roofs of houses and slowly disappeared. I cannot wait to see
> a more user friendly power solar panel. I have read that 150
> square feet can generate enough power to almost supply my
> needs. There are a couple of companies near where I live that
> are building these power solar generators but are strictly
> commercial right now.
Solar water heating can provide a substantial savings in many
areas. It can be difficult to find someone to repair/maintain
them. I've tried to avoid solar water heating for exactly that
reason.
I haven't tried to track the photovoltaic panel developments very
closely. As of the last time I took a serious look they were
still fairly pricey, weren't anywhere near as efficient as they
needed to become, and (if my understanding was correct) they
produced less and less power as they age.
Here in Iowa, most farm homes are heated with either #2 heating
oil or propane. As the price of #2 goes up so does the price of
propane - and the level of stress and hardship seems to expand
almost exponentially for people already struggling to keep the
family farm operating. The panels I'm producing aren't suitable
replacements for the more conventional heating systems; but a
good installation can significantly reduce (by 1/3 to 2/3) the
amount of fuel burned by #2 and propane heating systems.
And unlike solar water heaters and PV systems, the passive air
heaters only need the same maintenance as windows - keep any
exposed wood painted and wash the glazing when it gets dirty.
Stuff that almost all homeowners can do for themselves.
I'm neither an energy expert nor a "mother-earther"; but I've
been tinkering and experimenting with low-cost passive panels for
more than thirty years now (and have enjoyed working with wood
since I was a small fry). When my digital systems development
consulting market imploded, I decided to switch my focus to
solving the cost-of-heating problem for as many people as I
could. I'm enjoying it.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
toller wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> "Woodcrafter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> You can of course use a router, but it takes a lot longer
>>> and can be
>
> more
>
>>> hassle if you do not have a wide variety of router bits to
>>> get the width
>>
>> you
>>
>>> need relatively quickly.
>>>
>>
>>
>> I bet you I can set up and route a single dado to
>> "accurately" fit a particular board 3 times faster than you
>> can set up dado blades and make the cut. Or a variety of
>> widths with 1 bit.
>>
>> I can show you a great router jig to cut a variety of any
>> sized dados 1/2" or wider. The jig takes about 20 seconds
>> to set up accurately.
>>
>
> I agree that set up is easier with a router table, but
> actually cutting them on a table saw is so much faster and
> easier.
Hmm. I think you may have missed Leon's post a while back on ABPW
- I saved the pix and posted them (with a drawing) at
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I recall back in the early 80's those passive solar heaters were the in
thing for helping the water heater in the Houston area. They came and went.
Most of them were mounted on the roofs of houses and slowly disappeared. I
cannot wait to see a more user friendly power solar panel. I have read that
150 square feet can generate enough power to almost supply my needs. There
are a couple of companies near where I live that are building these power
solar generators but are strictly commercial right now.
"philly45" wrote in message
> Removing the blade guard and anti-kickback knife on a table saw seem like
> you are just asking for trouble. I realize this is the only way that you
> can use a dado blade in your saw though. Any thoughts on this. That big
> blade spinning around with no covering is very menacing looking. Anyone
> have experience with safer ways to make dado's & rabbits, like with a
> router?
That menacing look is a good thing, as it definitely demands respect.
However, and considering one is used for non-through cuts that can almost
always be safely handled with proper techniques, push blocks, and
sacrificial fences, a dado stack may be statistically less dangerous than a
regular blade.
For dadoes and grooves in casework I almost always use a dado stack, if for
no other reason than the time factor involved over using a router. And it
may well be worth considering that a relatively dangerous operation that can
be done in less time and with less effort, and with the same amount of
safety consciousness, ultimately means less exposure to the danger,
particularly when performing repetitive tasks with woodworking machinery..
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Texas? Limestone country. Sounds like you should be a twice-a-year flush
> versus annual.
Well all that my water is on a softener now and the build up is 99 %
better.
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The angles "confine" the router's base plate. I try hard not to
> let any metal (other than the collet) touch spinning router bits!
I think I see here. I have never trusted the router base much more than the
guide bushings. I do not particularly like to keep the router clocked in
the same position to insure that the bit travels the same path.
> Other than for a couple of test cuts, I haven't used the jig much
> - nearly all of my joinery is done by the robot while I'm off
> doing something else. I've had the jig down more often for show
> 'n' tell than for use.
Ah, that's cool.
> The spindle on my PC690 is concentric with its base plate; and
> the base plate is round. I think I may have lucked out because if
> either of those conditions weren't met, the angle approach
> wouldn't work very well - while your bushing approach will always
> work...
Exactly. My 1617evs permits centering the base to the collet but I know
that it could easily be knocked out of whack. I prefer the top bearing bit
as it is always accurate. Using a sample board to set the slot width seems
to work fine for me. I only use one size bit for all the width cuts 1/2"
and larger.
On another note, Am I correct in assuming that you build solar panels? If
you do, what kind?
Morris Dovey <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> toller wrote:
>
>> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> "Woodcrafter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>> You can of course use a router, but it takes a lot longer
>>>> and can be
>>
>> more
>>
>>>> hassle if you do not have a wide variety of router bits to
>>>> get the width
>>>
>>> you
>>>
>>>> need relatively quickly.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I bet you I can set up and route a single dado to
>>> "accurately" fit a particular board 3 times faster than you
>>> can set up dado blades and make the cut. Or a variety of
>>> widths with 1 bit.
>>>
>>> I can show you a great router jig to cut a variety of any
>>> sized dados 1/2" or wider. The jig takes about 20 seconds
>>> to set up accurately.
>>>
>>
>> I agree that set up is easier with a router table, but
>> actually cutting them on a table saw is so much faster and
>> easier.
>
> Hmm. I think you may have missed Leon's post a while back on ABPW
> - I saved the pix and posted them (with a drawing) at
> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html
>
There used to be video of Pat Warner doing a similar procedure, on the FWW
site. Made it pretty clear how this works safely.
That said, the appropriate manner of dado cutting certainly depends on the
task(s) at hand. I'm glad to have several methods, and tools, available to
me.
Patriarch
Leon wrote:
> "patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote
> in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> There used to be video of Pat Warner doing a similar
>> procedure, on the FWW site. Made it pretty clear how this
>> works safely.
>
> Exactly, I have seen it, he uses a square IIRC to align 1
> guide board and uses the sample piece to locate the second
> board.
>
>> That said, the appropriate manner of dado cutting certainly
>> depends on the task(s) at hand. I'm glad to have several
>> methods, and tools, available to me.
>
> My jig has limits in that it will allow cross cut dado's up to
> about 24". If you want several grooves down the length of a 6'
> board the stacked dado blade might be a better choice.
Neener: My routers came with guide/fences to make it even easier
to do that. (-:
BTW: I added a pair of 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum angles to your jig
design to allow me to use plain (no bearings) bits.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
I have been woodworking seriously since 1978. I have yet to buy a set of
dado blades.
You can use a router to cut your dado's.
Quick and accurate, take a sample of the wood that will fit the dado, set it
on edge at the location that will receive the dado, clamp 2 boards on either
side of the sample, remove the sample and use a router with a top bearing
flush trim bit to route out the material between the two boards that you
clamped.
"philly45" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Removing the blade guard and anti-kickback knife on a table saw seem like
> you are just asking for trouble. I realize this is the only way that you
> can use a dado blade in your saw though. Any thoughts on this. That big
> blade spinning around with no covering is very menacing looking. Anyone
> have experience with safer ways to make dado's & rabbits, like with a
> router?
>
>
Leon wrote:
> So, are you letting the shank of the bit rub up against the
> aluminum edges? Seems that would open up more capabilities of
> using much smaller bits for thin material also. How has that
> been holding up for you?
The angles "confine" the router's base plate. I try hard not to
let any metal (other than the collet) touch spinning router bits!
Other than for a couple of test cuts, I haven't used the jig much
- nearly all of my joinery is done by the robot while I'm off
doing something else. I've had the jig down more often for show
'n' tell than for use.
The spindle on my PC690 is concentric with its base plate; and
the base plate is round. I think I may have lucked out because if
either of those conditions weren't met, the angle approach
wouldn't work very well - while your bushing approach will always
work...
I've given some thought to making the position of the angles
adjustable for different bit sizes - but that would require
milling some fairly accurate slots in the aluminum and would
probably only be practical for two bit diameters (although a
step-shaped slot might work for 3/4", 1/2", 1/4", and 1/8".) I
think it'd be easier to make single-size jigs with
differently-positioned angles. If I break down and add a small
mill to the shop I may have to experiment.
Smaller bits? I've routed thin mahogany veneer using a 1/32" bit
on the 'bot; but just haven't even been tempted to try that
freehand. I doubt I can advance the router smoothly enough by
hand to avoid breaking 'em - it wouldn't take much.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
Leon wrote:
> On another note, Am I correct in assuming that you build solar
> panels? If you do, what kind?
Really good ones! (-:
Sorry, I couldn't resist a bit of crass self-promotion. I build
passive (unpowered) vertical panels that draw cool air from a
structure at floor level, heat it up, and deliver it back into
the structure six feet higher and (mid-winter, mid-day) 100ºF -
140ºF warmer.
I build two "lines" of panels: one that installs /in/ a vertical
wall like a factory-built window unit; and another for
(primarily) agricultural and warehouse use that mounts /on/ the
outside wall. There're photos of both types scattered around my
web site. Both lines operate in exactly the same way and use the
same absorber/exchanger design.
There's a passive solar water heater in the works. The initial
design is complete; but there are a couple of other projects in
the queue ahead of it - I'm hoping to have a manufacturing
prototype working by the end of September.
Right now, I'm trying to wind up a re-design of the in-wall
version to sell in kit form (at the urging of some people in the
UK.) It's been a challenge to anticipate all the ways the darned
thing could be mis-assembled and to find simple ways to /force/
correct assembly. Why do you suppose it is that people are at
their very most creative when they're screwing up? d-:
Essentially the panels are just wooden boxes with folded internal
baffles, a shop built aluminum combination absorber and heat
exchanger, and a really good polycarbonate solar glazing which is
secured by (you've probably already guessed :-) aluminum angle.
The in-wall type are built with 1" select pine and the on-wall
with 2" fir.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
"Woodcrafter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> You can of course use a router, but it takes a lot longer and can be more
> hassle if you do not have a wide variety of router bits to get the width
you
> need relatively quickly.
>
I bet you I can set up and route a single dado to "accurately" fit a
particular board 3 times faster than you can set up dado blades and make
the cut. Or a variety of widths with 1 bit.
I can show you a great router jig to cut a variety of any sized dados 1/2"
or wider. The jig takes about 20 seconds to set up accurately.
Nice and simple Leon. I want to make a pair..
One question - why is there no washer under the wingnut?
-Jack
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
>
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > Looking at that jig, I'm wondering if it would even be necessary to have
a
> > slot in the bottom boards? Wouldn't a simple bolt hole suffice and width
> > adjustment be handled by skewing the setup? Worst case scenario, if the
> > holes in the bottom boards didn't work out, then one could cut the
needed
> > slots. But, Leon's setup does look much cleaner. It's quite the neat jig
> > actually.
> > Thanks.
>
>
> Although the single hole and the skewing to change width is an interesting
> idea, the slots in the bottom enable the jig to change cutting widths and
> the top slots allow the user to tighten each side of the "T" to the edges
of
> the board to receive the dado. This in effect squares the jig to the work
> and insures that the dado is cut at a 90 degree angle to the edge of the
> work.
>
>
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>
> Neener: My routers came with guide/fences to make it even easier
> to do that. (-:
My latest router that I bought 3 weeks ago came with a guide fence.
>
> BTW: I added a pair of 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum angles to your jig
> design to allow me to use plain (no bearings) bits.
So, are you letting the shank of the bit rub up against the aluminum edges?
Seems that would open up more capabilities of using much smaller bits for
thin material also. How has that been holding up for you?
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Woodcrafter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > You can of course use a router, but it takes a lot longer and can be
more
> > hassle if you do not have a wide variety of router bits to get the width
> you
> > need relatively quickly.
> >
>
>
> I bet you I can set up and route a single dado to "accurately" fit a
> particular board 3 times faster than you can set up dado blades and make
> the cut. Or a variety of widths with 1 bit.
>
> I can show you a great router jig to cut a variety of any sized dados 1/2"
> or wider. The jig takes about 20 seconds to set up accurately.
>
I agree that set up is easier with a router table, but actually cutting them
on a table saw is so much faster and easier.
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hmm. I think you may have missed Leon's post a while back on ABPW
> - I saved the pix and posted them (with a drawing) at
> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html
Looking at that jig, I'm wondering if it would even be necessary to have a
slot in the bottom boards? Wouldn't a simple bolt hole suffice and width
adjustment be handled by skewing the setup? Worst case scenario, if the
holes in the bottom boards didn't work out, then one could cut the needed
slots. But, Leon's setup does look much cleaner. It's quite the neat jig
actually.
Thanks.
"Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Nice and simple Leon. I want to make a pair..
> One question - why is there no washer under the wingnut?
>
> -Jack
Thanks Jack
Actually there are washers under the wing nuts. The wing nuts, washers, and
bolts are 5/16" sized. I wanted them to be finger friendly. If you look
very closely at the top middle picture you can see the washers.