I was just thinking that it might be very useful to make a "super
straightedge"
for cutting veneer. The trouble with the common aluminum straightedge
is that it can be unexpectedly difficult to keep it from moving
slightly when making a cut, or to unknowingly jiggle it out of place.
I'm thinking of going to the local machine shop and getting a piece of
steel about 3/4" thick, 4" wide and 4' long with a bevel along one or
both sides. I could tap some screw holes on top for handles. That
sucker would stay wher it was placed, before and during the cut.
I worked in graphic arts for 35 years, our favorite straightedges were
hardened steel, not neccessarily heavy but usually backed with
something to keep them from slipping, sometimes only a strip of masking
tape. Thicker materials for backing would raise the straightedge too
high, allowing your blade or whatever to undercut it.
If you're looking for machined straight edges cheap, check with print
shops and ad agencies, or watch for auctions from them. The edges of
their light tables have a removable, adjustable steel bar, 1-3" x 3/8"
x size of table side that is precisely machined. Probably not Starret
standards straight, like for setting up a jointer, but plenty accurate
for what you want. They also make a good router guide for jointing
boards without use of a jointer.
There are many abandoned light tables all over the country, from a time
when most layout work was done by hand. Since the bars are usually
chromed, rust is not a problem.
"swollenthumb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I was just thinking that it might be very useful to make a "super
> straightedge"
> for cutting veneer. The trouble with the common aluminum straightedge
> is that it can be unexpectedly difficult to keep it from moving
> slightly when making a cut, or to unknowingly jiggle it out of place.
> I'm thinking of going to the local machine shop and getting a piece of
> steel about 3/4" thick, 4" wide and 4' long with a bevel along one or
> both sides. I could tap some screw holes on top for handles. That
> sucker would stay wher it was placed, before and during the cut.
>
Assuming that you are trying to straighten the edge to edge join two pieces
of veneer: You could straighten the edge by using a shooting board... fold
the two pieces of veneer together and clamp the veneer between two pieces of
MDF or particle board, and to the bench, with the edge of the veneer
sticking proud of the boards a bit (e.g., 1/8" or less). Shoot the edge of
the veneer with the plane resting on the workbench. The idea is to joint the
edge using the length of the plane as the straight edge and NOT the boards.
John
Hi John,
Would you expand on that a bit for us slower folks. Thanks, JG
John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "swollenthumb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I was just thinking that it might be very useful to make a "super
> > straightedge"
> > for cutting veneer. The trouble with the common aluminum straightedge
> > is that it can be unexpectedly difficult to keep it from moving
> > slightly when making a cut, or to unknowingly jiggle it out of place.
> > I'm thinking of going to the local machine shop and getting a piece of
> > steel about 3/4" thick, 4" wide and 4' long with a bevel along one or
> > both sides. I could tap some screw holes on top for handles. That
> > sucker would stay wher it was placed, before and during the cut.
> >
>
> Assuming that you are trying to straighten the edge to edge join two pieces
> of veneer: You could straighten the edge by using a shooting board... fold
> the two pieces of veneer together and clamp the veneer between two pieces of
> MDF or particle board, and to the bench, with the edge of the veneer
> sticking proud of the boards a bit (e.g., 1/8" or less). Shoot the edge of
> the veneer with the plane resting on the workbench. The idea is to joint the
> edge using the length of the plane as the straight edge and NOT the boards.
>
> John
Thanks, JG
John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "JGS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi John,
> > Would you expand on that a bit for us slower folks. Thanks, JG
> >
> > John Grossbohlin wrote:
>
> snip
>
> >> Assuming that you are trying to straighten the edge to edge join two
> >> pieces
> >> of veneer: You could straighten the edge by using a shooting board...
> >> fold
> >> the two pieces of veneer together and clamp the veneer between two pieces
> >> of
> >> MDF or particle board, and to the bench, with the edge of the veneer
> >> sticking proud of the boards a bit (e.g., 1/8" or less). Shoot the edge
> >> of
> >> the veneer with the plane resting on the workbench. The idea is to joint
> >> the
> >> edge using the length of the plane as the straight edge and NOT the
> >> boards.
>
> I posted some pictures in ABPW that demonstrate the process.
On 2 Apr 2005 18:32:45 -0800, "swollenthumb" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I was just thinking that it might be very useful to make a "super
>straightedge" for cutting veneer.
Super straightedges are great - I do a lot of picture framing.
It's not weight that's useful, it's the foam or fabric underneath.
Fine shirtmaking corduroy is the best nonslip I've found so far
(thinner than mousemat)
"JGS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi John,
> Would you expand on that a bit for us slower folks. Thanks, JG
>
> John Grossbohlin wrote:
snip
>> Assuming that you are trying to straighten the edge to edge join two
>> pieces
>> of veneer: You could straighten the edge by using a shooting board...
>> fold
>> the two pieces of veneer together and clamp the veneer between two pieces
>> of
>> MDF or particle board, and to the bench, with the edge of the veneer
>> sticking proud of the boards a bit (e.g., 1/8" or less). Shoot the edge
>> of
>> the veneer with the plane resting on the workbench. The idea is to joint
>> the
>> edge using the length of the plane as the straight edge and NOT the
>> boards.
I posted some pictures in ABPW that demonstrate the process.