I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 10:50:39 -0800 (PST), "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Getting back to the topic. I wonder if the worse cut from the 200 tooth
>> blade is due to it being steel, while your other blades are carbide.
>> All of my blades are carbide. Table saws and circular saws and miter
>> saws. About the only steel blades I have are for the reciprocating saw.
>> And its not known for making a smooth cut.
>
> There is no reason that steel can't be as sharp as carbide, even
> sharper. More likely the problem is the $10. How accurate is the set
> in all those teeth? How sharp? High-end blades don't have nearly that
> many teeth. The highest I've seen is around 80 for a 10" blade and
> that's for solid-surface counter material.
>
>>
>> On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 5:23:41 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
>>> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
>>> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
>>>
I'll go with too many teeth for thick material. The blades teeth are
simply loading up before clearing the cut. There is no more room in the
gullet before the teeth exit the cut.
When resawing on a BS it is recommended that there be fewer teeth so that
the gullets do not fill before exiting the cut. One of my blades has a
tooth every 1.3". It resaws smoother and faster than my blades with more
closely cut teeth.
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/20/17 8:19 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 17:35:39 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/19/2017 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
>>>> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
>>>> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
>>>> right?
>>>>
>>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
>>>>
>>>> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
>>>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
>>>> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
>>>>
>>>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
>>>> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
>>>> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
>>>> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
>>>> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
>>>>
>>>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>>>>
>>>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
>>>> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>>>>
>>>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>>>>
>>>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
>>>> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
>>>> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
>>>>
>>>
>>> Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.
>>>
>>> My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey
>>> but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a
>>> stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.
>>
>> Perhaps but the Freud Glue-Line Rip is one sweet blade. Another
>> useful blade is the #1 grind.
>>
>
> I love the Glue-Line!
> Is the #1 grind the flat top one?
>
>
I'll have to make a correction to my statement. I do change a WWII for
another WWII that I had Forrest put a flat grind on, I use it strictly for
narrower than 1/4" wide groves.
On Sunday, November 26, 2017 at 1:18:03 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> >
> > Respectable enough to even have some padauk. ;-)
> >
> > Maybe tomorrow. I've already de-dusted myself for the day.
>
> That sounds delicious. Does it make a good mix with turkey gravy? :-)
I've never tried sawdust infused gravy, but I did mkae stuffing waffles on
Friday day morning.
A couple of us had them with eggs on top, others just used maple syrup.
Both ways were delicious. A tradition has been born!
https://i.imgur.com/2RIOuX2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8TpJxLf.jpg
I need to work on the presentation, but stuffing doesn't tend to pour
as well as waffle batter. It's more of a spread and sqush process.
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>> If it's new, probably.
>>>
>>> I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered
>>>
>>>> One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
>>>> I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions on what to buy?
>>
>> I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.
>>
>> https://www.woodcraft.com/products/freud-sc-001-saw-blade-stabilizer-set-3-1-2-diameter-x-5-8-bore
>>
>> http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers
>>
>>> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
>>
>> It might widen it a smidgen.
>>
>
> It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
> It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
> probably 1/8".
> So you now have a slot 1/8" wider than your blade which negates the
> benefits of a ZCI on the motor side.
> If you do all your cutting on the blade side it won't make a difference
> to the quality of the cut. But if you cut on the motor side, you'll get
> some tearout.
>
>
Whaaaaaaaaat? :-). Do all your cutting on the blade side? Maybe you
meant nut side.
But, regardless of where the gap is at you are likely to need/use the
pieces from both sides of the cut. So the usable scrap will possibly have
some splintering.
AND, yes using the double set stabilizer will widen the slot.
On Monday, November 27, 2017 at 11:03:50 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/27/17 6:40 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >=20
> > I tested 3 blades today.
> >=20
> > 1 - A Bosch 60 tooth blade that came with my miter saw. It's on my
> > miter saw right now for some crap cuts, so I figured I might as well
> > try it for comparison.
> >=20
> > 2 - A Diablo 40 tooth general purpose blade on the table saw. This is
> > my "standard" blade. The one on the table saw is basically new. I have
> > another one that I plan to get sharpened.
> >=20
> > 3 - An Irwin-Marples 80 tooth Hi-ATB blade on the table saw.
> >=20
> > I cross-cut 3 species using a sled: Poplar, Maple and Padauk
> >=20
> > I made my choice of the smoothest cut and then had SWMBO give me her
> > opinion. She was totally unbiased because she had no idea which blade
> > made which cut. Her test was 100% tactile.
> >=20
> > Without hesitation, the Bosch cut on the miter saw was deemed the worst
> > in all three cases. No surprise. Single finger swipe, decision made.
> >=20
> > The comparison between the Diablo blade and the Irwin blade was much mo=
re
> > difficult. For both of us, it took multiple swipes before a decision wa=
s
> > made. For the Paduak and the Poplar, we both felt that the Irwin was sl=
ightly
> > smoother than the Diablo. For the Maple, we both chose the Diablo.
> >=20
> > After SWMBO made her choices, I told her the price of the blades. She a=
greed
> > that in the cases where the Irwin was smoother, an $8 higher price (eBa=
y) was
> > reasonable. When I told her that the Irwin typically sold for $50-$60, =
she
> > agreed that a $20-$30 price difference was not reflected in the differe=
nce
> > in the quality of cut.
> >=20
> > Comparing longevity will be tougher. Maybe I'll leave that to someone e=
lse.
> >=20
> > For now, I'll leave the Irwin on the table saw and put the Diablo on th=
e
> > miter saw. That will get me through my bookcase project with 2 blades
> > that perform close enough to "equally well" for my purposes.
> >=20
>=20
> Thanks for the informative comparison review.
> Were all the blades thin kerf?
>=20
They all mic at 3/32=E2=80=9D
On 26 Nov 2017 06:17:59 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>> Respectable enough to even have some padauk. ;-)
>>
>> Maybe tomorrow. I've already de-dusted myself for the day.
>
>That sounds delicious. Does it make a good mix with turkey gravy? :-)
>
>Puckdropper
Do not know but a bread baker (large corp) did use saw dust cause it
is added fiber.
Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/19/2017 6:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>>
>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
>> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>>
>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>>
>
> Well, everything is relative. It is better than say, a steak knife.
> Makes you wonder how a product like that gets on the store shelf. I
> guess the manufacturer has no shame.
>
I think the blade is intended for THIN plywood. I had one these style
blades in 1979, it only did well in thin material.
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
*snip*
> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>
> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>
> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
The image quality is plenty clear. You can see the effects of the 200
tooth blade and the tear out on the bottom.
*snip*
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> That could be it. I knew it was steel when I bought it, and I knew not
> to expect much for $10.
>
> Here's what happened. I was recently perusing an article on cutting
> sheet goods on a table saw. They mentioned picking up an inexpensive,
> high tooth count plywood blade for the best cuts. So I get to HD and
> see an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blade. I said myself "I'm
> sure this won't be any good, but it's worth a quick test.
>
> It's already packaged back up and ready to be returned.
Sometimes I wonder if writers live the thing they write about. Just
reading historical documents and adding your thoughts may be a good way
to get an article done, but it doesn't exactly add to the sum of human
knowledge.
My carbide blades do just fine with most plywood, going up to 80T max. I
usually use a 40T or 60T if the cut edge isn't critical, depending on
what's on the saw. I have not really seen that great of result from
super high tooth count "Naruto's Hair" style teeth the few times I've
tried.
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> And a new sled? I'd rather not.
Epoxy, thickened with microballoons. (RIP Lew Hodgett.)
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> Respectable enough to even have some padauk. ;-)
>
> Maybe tomorrow. I've already de-dusted myself for the day.
That sounds delicious. Does it make a good mix with turkey gravy? :-)
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
> > try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
> > give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
> > right?
> >
> > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
> >
> > I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
> > on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
> > easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
> >
> > Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
> > that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
> > start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
> > plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
> > I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
> >
> > What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
> >
> > I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
> > Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
> >
> > I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
> > used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
> > that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
> >
> > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
> >
>
> I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
> Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.
>
> I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a warning
> about it.
> For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but because the blade is so
> thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving you a crooked cut that is
> very hard to control.
>
> In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine.
> I use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
> http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb
> I got it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
> cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in plywood.
> It looks similar to yours.
>
I ended up having a chance to try the 84 tooth non-ferrous blade. (Dinner
wasn't ready yet.)
The 40 tooth General Purpose Diablo still beat it quality wise. Cut effort
was similar. Just to be sure it wasn't some other factor, I put the 40 tooth
back on and did one last cut. It's definitely the best of the three.
Should I trust this $40 deal?
https://www.ebay.com/i/400561585359?chn=ps&dispctrl=1
On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 1:50:42 PM UTC-5, [email protected] wrot=
e:
> Getting back to the topic. I wonder if the worse cut from the 200 tooth =
blade is due to it being steel, while your other blades are carbide. All o=
f my blades are carbide. Table saws and circular saws and miter saws. Abo=
ut the only steel blades I have are for the reciprocating saw. And its not=
known for making a smooth cut.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 5:23:41 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'=
d=20
> > try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd=
=20
> > give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
> > right?
> >=20
> > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Bl=
ade-A10200X/202021698
> >=20
> > I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few tes=
t cuts
> > on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. A=
n=20
> > easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
> >=20
> > Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was appa=
rent=20
> > that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once=
I=20
> > start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3=
/4"
> > plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table s=
aw.
> > I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.=20
> >=20
> > What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
> >=20
> > I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the=20
> > Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
> >=20
> > https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
> >=20
> > I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
> > used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
> > that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
> >=20
> > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrou=
s-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
That could be it. I knew it was steel when I bought it, and I knew not to e=
xpect much for $10.
Here's what happened. I was recently perusing an article on cutting sheet g=
oods on a table saw.
They mentioned picking up an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blade fo=
r the best cuts.
So I get to HD and see an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blade. I sa=
id myself "I'm=20
sure this won't be any good, but it's worth a quick test.
It's already packaged back up and ready to be returned.
On Saturday, November 25, 2017 at 8:40:46 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/25/17 7:22 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Saturday, November 25, 2017 at 7:25:36 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> On 11/25/17 4:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >>>> On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
> >>>>> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
> >>>>> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
> >>>>> right?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
> >>>>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
> >>>>> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
> >>>>> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
> >>>>> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"yay
> >>>>> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
> >>>>> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
> >>>>> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
> >>>>> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
> >>>>> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
> >>>> Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.
> >>>>
> >>>> I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a warning
> >>>> about it.
> >>>> For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but because the blade is so
> >>>> thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving you a crooked cut that is
> >>>> very hard to control.
> >>>>
> >>>> In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine.
> >>>> I use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
> >>>> http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb
> >>>> I got it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
> >>>> cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in plywood.
> >>>> It looks similar to yours.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> I just tried out the irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb that I got on eBay
> >>> for $38.
> >>>
> >>> First, it's the same thickness as the $30 40-tooth Diablo that had won the
> >>> earlier quality-of-cut trials. 3/32". No need for a new ZCI or sacrificial
> >>> top on the sled.
> >>>
> >>> As far as quality-of-cut, I'll give it a slightly higher rating than the
> >>> $30 Diablo. $38 vs. $30 better? Barely. Full price at $50-$60 vs. $30 better?
> >>> Definitely not.
> >>>
> >>> I can't speak to longevity since I don't cut a lot of plywood, but my bookcase
> >>> project should give me some indication. I'll run the Irwin for the plywood
> >>> until it either gives out or completes the job. We'll see how it does.
> >>>
> >>
> >> Good info, thanks.
> >> If you don't mind, I'd love to hear the results of a test between those
> >> two blades on hardwood crosscuts.
> >>
> >
> > If you have any particular species in mind, just send me a couple of hundred BF so
> > we make sure I test a large enough sample size. ;-)
> >
>
> Every respectable woodworker has some poplar, oak, or maple scraps
> sitting in a bin somewhere.
>
> Are you respectable? :-p
>
>
Respectable enough to even have some padauk. ;-)
Maybe tomorrow. I've already de-dusted myself for the day.
On Tuesday, November 21, 2017 at 9:53:47 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/21/17 7:28 AM, Leon wrote:
> > -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
> >>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>> If it's new, probably.
> >>>>
> >>>> I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered
> >>>>
> >>>>> One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
> >>>>> I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.
> >>>>
> >>>> Any suggestions on what to buy?
> >>>
> >>> I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.
> >>>
> >>> https://www.woodcraft.com/products/freud-sc-001-saw-blade-stabilizer-set-3-1-2-diameter-x-5-8-bore
> >>>
> >>> http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers
> >>>
> >>>> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
> >>>
> >>> It might widen it a smidgen.
> >>>
> >>
> >> It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
> >> It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
> >> probably 1/8".
> >> So you now have a slot 1/8" wider than your blade which negates the
> >> benefits of a ZCI on the motor side.
> >> If you do all your cutting on the blade side it won't make a difference
> >> to the quality of the cut. But if you cut on the motor side, you'll get
> >> some tearout.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > Whaaaaaaaaat? :-). Do all your cutting on the blade side? Maybe you
> > meant nut side.
> >
> > But, regardless of where the gap is at you are likely to need/use the
> > pieces from both sides of the cut. So the usable scrap will possibly have
> > some splintering.
> >
> > AND, yes using the double set stabilizer will widen the slot.
> >
>
> Yeah, I guess that doesn't make sense.
> Also you could cut long and flip over to make the final cut.
> But yeah, just make a new ZCI and be done with it.
>
>
> --
>
And a new sled? I'd rather not.
On Fri, 22 Dec 2017 12:10:32 -0800 (PST), [email protected]
wrote:
>Well I'm new to dado blades. I'm in the market to find a good one and was lucky to find this info - http://handtoolexpert.com/best-dado-blade/ . To me it's worth spending a few extra dollars on a real set for peace of mind and more options.
I have both the Freud and Forrest sets. The Forrest is worth the
price, IMO. You'll only cry once.
On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 3:39:42 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/20/17 1:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 1:50:42 PM UTC-5, [email protected] =
wrote:
> >> Getting back to the topic. I wonder if the worse cut from the 200 too=
th blade is due to it being steel, while your other blades are carbide. Al=
l of my blades are carbide. Table saws and circular saws and miter saws. =
About the only steel blades I have are for the reciprocating saw. And its =
not known for making a smooth cut.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 5:23:41 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought =
I'd
> >>> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I=
'd
> >>> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
> >>> right?
> >>>
> >>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-=
Blade-A10200X/202021698
> >>>
> >>> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few t=
est cuts
> >>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to.=
An
> >>> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
> >>>
> >>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was ap=
parent
> >>> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two on=
ce I
> >>> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of=
3/4"
> >>> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table=
saw.
> >>> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
> >>>
> >>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
> >>>
> >>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
> >>> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
> >>>
> >>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
> >>>
> >>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I'v=
e
> >>> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tri=
ed
> >>> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
> >>>
> >>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferr=
ous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
> >=20
> > That could be it. I knew it was steel when I bought it, and I knew not =
to expect much for $10.
> >=20
> > Here's what happened. I was recently perusing an article on cutting she=
et goods on a table saw.
> > They mentioned picking up an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blad=
e for the best cuts.
> > So I get to HD and see an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blade. =
I said myself "I'm
> > sure this won't be any good, but it's worth a quick test.
> >=20
> > It's already packaged back up and ready to be returned.
> >=20
>=20
> They don't even make good clocks.
>=20
It would probably give me a rough time.
On Saturday, November 25, 2017 at 9:52:00 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Saturday, November 25, 2017 at 8:40:46 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> > On 11/25/17 7:22 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > > On Saturday, November 25, 2017 at 7:25:36 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> > >> On 11/25/17 4:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > >>> On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> > >>>> On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > >>>>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
> > >>>>> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
> > >>>>> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
> > >>>>> right?
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
> > >>>>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
> > >>>>> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
> > >>>>> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
> > >>>>> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"yay
> > >>>>> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
> > >>>>> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
> > >>>>> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
> > >>>>> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
> > >>>>> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
> > >>>> Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a warning
> > >>>> about it.
> > >>>> For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but because the blade is so
> > >>>> thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving you a crooked cut that is
> > >>>> very hard to control.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine.
> > >>>> I use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
> > >>>> http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb
> > >>>> I got it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
> > >>>> cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in plywood.
> > >>>> It looks similar to yours.
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >>> I just tried out the irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb that I got on eBay
> > >>> for $38.
> > >>>
> > >>> First, it's the same thickness as the $30 40-tooth Diablo that had won the
> > >>> earlier quality-of-cut trials. 3/32". No need for a new ZCI or sacrificial
> > >>> top on the sled.
> > >>>
> > >>> As far as quality-of-cut, I'll give it a slightly higher rating than the
> > >>> $30 Diablo. $38 vs. $30 better? Barely. Full price at $50-$60 vs. $30 better?
> > >>> Definitely not.
> > >>>
> > >>> I can't speak to longevity since I don't cut a lot of plywood, but my bookcase
> > >>> project should give me some indication. I'll run the Irwin for the plywood
> > >>> until it either gives out or completes the job. We'll see how it does.
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >> Good info, thanks.
> > >> If you don't mind, I'd love to hear the results of a test between those
> > >> two blades on hardwood crosscuts.
> > >>
> > >
> > > If you have any particular species in mind, just send me a couple of hundred BF so
> > > we make sure I test a large enough sample size. ;-)
> > >
> >
> > Every respectable woodworker has some poplar, oak, or maple scraps
> > sitting in a bin somewhere.
> >
> > Are you respectable? :-p
> >
> >
>
> Respectable enough to even have some padauk. ;-)
>
> Maybe tomorrow. I've already de-dusted myself for the day.
I tested 3 blades today.
1 - A Bosch 60 tooth blade that came with my miter saw. It's on my
miter saw right now for some crap cuts, so I figured I might as well
try it for comparison.
2 - A Diablo 40 tooth general purpose blade on the table saw. This is
my "standard" blade. The one on the table saw is basically new. I have
another one that I plan to get sharpened.
3 - An Irwin-Marples 80 tooth Hi-ATB blade on the table saw.
I cross-cut 3 species using a sled: Poplar, Maple and Padauk
I made my choice of the smoothest cut and then had SWMBO give me her
opinion. She was totally unbiased because she had no idea which blade
made which cut. Her test was 100% tactile.
Without hesitation, the Bosch cut on the miter saw was deemed the worst
in all three cases. No surprise. Single finger swipe, decision made.
The comparison between the Diablo blade and the Irwin blade was much more
difficult. For both of us, it took multiple swipes before a decision was
made. For the Paduak and the Poplar, we both felt that the Irwin was slightly
smoother than the Diablo. For the Maple, we both chose the Diablo.
After SWMBO made her choices, I told her the price of the blades. She agreed
that in the cases where the Irwin was smoother, an $8 higher price (eBay) was
reasonable. When I told her that the Irwin typically sold for $50-$60, she
agreed that a $20-$30 price difference was not reflected in the difference
in the quality of cut.
Comparing longevity will be tougher. Maybe I'll leave that to someone else.
For now, I'll leave the Irwin on the table saw and put the Diablo on the
miter saw. That will get me through my bookcase project with 2 blades
that perform close enough to "equally well" for my purposes.
On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 17:35:39 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 11/19/2017 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
>> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
>> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
>> right?
>>
>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
>>
>> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
>> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
>>
>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
>> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
>> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
>> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
>> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
>>
>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>>
>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
>> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>>
>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>>
>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
>> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
>> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
>>
>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
>>
>
>Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.
>
>My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey
>but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a
>stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.
Perhaps but the Freud Glue-Line Rip is one sweet blade. Another
useful blade is the #1 grind.
On 11/19/2017 6:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>
> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>
> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>
Well, everything is relative. It is better than say, a steak knife.
Makes you wonder how a product like that gets on the store shelf. I
guess the manufacturer has no shame.
On 11/19/2017 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
> right?
>
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
>
> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
>
> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
>
> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>
> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>
> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>
> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
>
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
>
Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.
My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey
but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a
stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
>>
>> It might widen it a smidgen.
>>
>
> It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
> It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
> probably 1/8".
Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.
If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On 11/20/17 4:53 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
>>>>
>>>> It might widen it a smidgen.
>>>>
>>>
>>> It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
>>> It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
>>> probably 1/8".
>>
>> Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
>> changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.
>>
>> If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
>> impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.
>>
>
> Well, they most often come in pairs, so they do "belong" on both sides.
Your experience and mine differ; I've *never* seen them in pairs, only singles.
On 12/22/2017 2:10 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Well I'm new to dado blades. I'm in the market to find a good one and was lucky to find this info - http://handtoolexpert.com/best-dado-blade/ . To me it's worth spending a few extra dollars on a real set for peace of mind and more options.
>
I bought the Forrest Dado King set in 2005. I build a lot of furniture
and 99% of it has lots of dado's and groves.
For the first time ever I had this set resharpened by Forrest a couple
of months ago.
Very pricey but IMHO worth every penny if you are going to use the set a
lot. With most tools you will use them more if the work well. If they
don't give you good results you will tend to avoid them.
On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 9:16:26 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/19/17 6:37 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I
> >>> thought I'd try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much,
> >>> but I figured I'd give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade
> >>> before. More is better, right?
> >>>
> >>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test
> cuts
> >>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti
> >>> to. An easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
> >>>
> >>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it
> >>> was apparent that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even
> >>> maybe a nap or two once I start my project. The amount of effort
> >>> required to get through 12" of 3/4" plywood was astounding. I've
> >>> got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw. I'm tired just
> >>> thinking about using that blade.
> >>>
> >>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
> >>>
> >>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is
> >>> the Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
> >>>
> >>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
> >>>
> >>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that
> >>> I've used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I
> >>> haven't tried that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
> >>>
> >>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
> >> Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.
> >>
> >> I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a
> >> warning about it. For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but
> >> because the blade is so thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving
> >> you a crooked cut that is very hard to control.
> >>
> >> In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine. I
> >> use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
> >> http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb I got
> >> it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
> >> cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in
> >> plywood. It looks similar to yours.
> >>
> >
> > I ended up having a chance to try the 84 tooth non-ferrous blade.
> > (Dinner wasn't ready yet.)
> >
> > The 40 tooth General Purpose Diablo still beat it quality wise. Cut
> > effort was similar. Just to be sure it wasn't some other factor, I
> > put the 40 tooth back on and did one last cut. It's definitely the
> > best of the three.
> >
> > Should I trust this $40 deal?
> >
> > https://www.ebay.com/i/400561585359?chn=ps&dispctrl=1
> >
>
> If it's new, probably.
I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered
> One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
> I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.
Any suggestions on what to buy?
Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
Spalted Walt <[email protected]> wrote:
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > If it's new, probably.
> >
> > I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered
> >
> > > One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
> > > I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.
> >
> > Any suggestions on what to buy?
>
> I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.
>
> https://www.woodcraft.com/products/freud-sc-001-saw-blade-stabilizer-set-3-1-2-diameter-x-5-8-bore
>
> http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers
>
> > Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
>
> It might widen it a smidgen.
Clarification:
If the blade stiffener is 1/8" and the Irwin is 3/32" then
the afore mentioned "smidgen" = ~ 3/32" wider.
Another consideration when switching to a thin kerf:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/how-thin-thin-kerf-37285/#post320350
On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 7:21:55 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/20/17 6:17 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> > -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> >
> >> On 11/20/17 4:53 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> >>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> >>>
> >>>> On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
> >>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>>>> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> It might widen it a smidgen.
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
> >>>> It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
> >>>> probably 1/8".
> >>>
> >>> Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
> >>> changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.
> >>>
> >>> If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
> >>> impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.
> >>>
> >>
> >> Well, they most often come in pairs, so they do "belong" on both sides.
> >
> > Your experience and mine differ; I've *never* seen them in pairs, only singles.
> >
>
> Better not google it or you'll break that record. :-p
>
>
If you plan to use just one, use this one.
http://www.wonders-in-wood.us/images/ridgid/stiffener.jpg
On Saturday, November 25, 2017 at 7:25:36 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/25/17 4:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
> >>> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
> >>> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
> >>> right?
> >>>
> >>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
> >>>
> >>> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
> >>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
> >>> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
> >>>
> >>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
> >>> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
> >>> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"yay
> >>> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
> >>> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
> >>>
> >>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
> >>>
> >>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
> >>> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
> >>>
> >>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
> >>>
> >>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
> >>> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
> >>> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
> >>>
> >>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
> >>>
> >>
> >> I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
> >> Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.
> >>
> >> I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a warning
> >> about it.
> >> For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but because the blade is so
> >> thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving you a crooked cut that is
> >> very hard to control.
> >>
> >> In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine.
> >> I use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
> >> http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb
> >> I got it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
> >> cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in plywood.
> >> It looks similar to yours.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > I just tried out the irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb that I got on eBay
> > for $38.
> >
> > First, it's the same thickness as the $30 40-tooth Diablo that had won the
> > earlier quality-of-cut trials. 3/32". No need for a new ZCI or sacrificial
> > top on the sled.
> >
> > As far as quality-of-cut, I'll give it a slightly higher rating than the
> > $30 Diablo. $38 vs. $30 better? Barely. Full price at $50-$60 vs. $30 better?
> > Definitely not.
> >
> > I can't speak to longevity since I don't cut a lot of plywood, but my bookcase
> > project should give me some indication. I'll run the Irwin for the plywood
> > until it either gives out or completes the job. We'll see how it does.
> >
>
> Good info, thanks.
> If you don't mind, I'd love to hear the results of a test between those
> two blades on hardwood crosscuts.
>
If you have any particular species in mind, just send me a couple of hundred BF so
we make sure I test a large enough sample size. ;-)
On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 5:35:50 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
=20
> Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.
>=20
> My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey=20
> but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a=
=20
> stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.
Of all the years of being in and out of cabinet shops (and using blades mys=
elf) I have never seen a higher tooth count than 80 (on 12" saws) and usual=
ly no more than 60 tooth count on 12" or 10". Production cabinet shops des=
ign cabinets to hide their cuts, so speed and accuracy of dimension are jus=
t as important as splinter problems.
They use brands of blades that I only see when I am in their shops, and the=
blades are selected by the size of carbide tips (determines the times they=
can be sharpened) and by the type of carbide (at least C3), the tooth desi=
gn and quality of original manufacture.
The only time I see the super high tooth count blades is on mitering machin=
es of some sort that cut specialty moldings.
Robert
Getting back to the topic. I wonder if the worse cut from the 200 tooth bl=
ade is due to it being steel, while your other blades are carbide. All of =
my blades are carbide. Table saws and circular saws and miter saws. About=
the only steel blades I have are for the reciprocating saw. And its not k=
nown for making a smooth cut.
On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 5:23:41 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd=
=20
> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd=
=20
> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
> right?
>=20
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blad=
e-A10200X/202021698
>=20
> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test =
cuts
> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An=
=20
> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
>=20
> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was appare=
nt=20
> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I=
=20
> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4=
"
> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw=
.
> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.=20
>=20
> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>=20
> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the=20
> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>=20
> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>=20
> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
>=20
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-=
Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 20:38:21 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 11/20/17 8:19 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 17:35:39 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/19/2017 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
>>>> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
>>>> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
>>>> right?
>>>>
>>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
>>>>
>>>> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
>>>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
>>>> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
>>>>
>>>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
>>>> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
>>>> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
>>>> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
>>>> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
>>>>
>>>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>>>>
>>>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
>>>> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>>>>
>>>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>>>>
>>>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
>>>> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
>>>> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
>>>>
>>>
>>> Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.
>>>
>>> My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey
>>> but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a
>>> stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.
>>
>> Perhaps but the Freud Glue-Line Rip is one sweet blade. Another
>> useful blade is the #1 grind.
>>
>
>I love the Glue-Line!
It's certainly worth the bother of changing blades.
>Is the #1 grind the flat top one?
Yes.
<https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/forrestwoodworkerii10x40toothno1squarecutblade18kerf.aspx>
On Sun, 19 Nov 2017 21:43:09 -0800, Electric Comet
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 19 Nov 2017 21:15:02 -0500
>Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Well, everything is relative. It is better than say, a steak knife.
>> Makes you wonder how a product like that gets on the store shelf. I
>> guess the manufacturer has no shame.
>
>
>another sign of the degradation of the supply chain to the consumer
>
>instead of the buyer for home depot insisting on quality they buy
>from some pre approved supplier
>
Home Depot just sells what people want to buy. They're not a high-end
woodworking store, like say, Highland. I'd be surprised if HW sold
such (but even their customers may want to buy such) but the likes of
HD, Sears, and HF sell what the greatest (common denominator) number
of people want. If you want to blame someone, blame the (generic)
customer. You may not always get what you pay for but you're
certainly not going to get something you didn't pay for.
On Wednesday, November 22, 2017 at 12:15:06 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/21/17 5:45 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Tuesday, November 21, 2017 at 9:53:47 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> On 11/21/17 7:28 AM, Leon wrote:
> >>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>> On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
> >>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>> If it's new, probably.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping.
> >>>>>> Ordered
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> One caveat I forgot to mention, though. I used blade
> >>>>>>> stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Any suggestions on what to buy?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> https://www.woodcraft.com/products/freud-sc-001-saw-blade-stabilizer-set-3-1-2-diameter-x-5-8-bore
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by
> >>>>>> moving the blade?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> It might widen it a smidgen.
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> It's going to do a lot more than widen it. It's going to move
> >>>> it over the width of the stabilizer, which is probably 1/8". So
> >>>> you now have a slot 1/8" wider than your blade which negates
> >>>> the benefits of a ZCI on the motor side. If you do all your
> >>>> cutting on the blade side it won't make a difference to the
> >>>> quality of the cut. But if you cut on the motor side, you'll
> >>>> get some tearout.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> Whaaaaaaaaat? :-). Do all your cutting on the blade side?
> >>> Maybe you meant nut side.
> >>>
> >>> But, regardless of where the gap is at you are likely to need/use
> >>> the pieces from both sides of the cut. So the usable scrap will
> >>> possibly have some splintering.
> >>>
> >>> AND, yes using the double set stabilizer will widen the slot.
> >>>
> >>
> >> Yeah, I guess that doesn't make sense. Also you could cut long and
> >> flip over to make the final cut. But yeah, just make a new ZCI and
> >> be done with it.
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >>
> >
> > And a new sled? I'd rather not.
> >
>
> You don't even need aZCI with a sled, but you can do what I do.
I agree, since the sled acts as a ZCI.
> I use a sacrificial top on my sled. It's thin MDF (3/16"?) screwed down
> to the sled that I just move over to cover the slot. The first pass
> through the blade give you your ZC line. When you switch to a larger
> blade/stack, it cuts through the sacrificial top to make a wider ZC line.
> When you switch to a narrower blade, you just unscrew the MDF, move it
> over to close the gap, screw it down, and start over. Very fast and
> effective.
>
Sure, but now I have to raise the blade another 3/16". Jeez, more work. ;-)
On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
> > try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
> > give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
> > right?
> >
> > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
> >
> > I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
> > on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
> > easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
> >
> > Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
> > that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
> > start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
> > plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
> > I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
> >
> > What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
> >
> > I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
> > Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
> >
> > I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
> > used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
> > that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
> >
> > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
> >
>
> I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
> Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.
>
> I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a warning
> about it.
> For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but because the blade is so
> thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving you a crooked cut that is
> very hard to control.
>
> In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine.
> I use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
> http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb
> I got it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
> cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in plywood.
> It looks similar to yours.
>
>
I just tried out the irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb that I got on eBay
for $38.
First, it's the same thickness as the $30 40-tooth Diablo that had won the
earlier quality-of-cut trials. 3/32". No need for a new ZCI or sacrificial
top on the sled.
As far as quality-of-cut, I'll give it a slightly higher rating than the
$30 Diablo. $38 vs. $30 better? Barely. Full price at $50-$60 vs. $30 better?
Definitely not.
I can't speak to longevity since I don't cut a lot of plywood, but my bookcase
project should give me some indication. I'll run the Irwin for the plywood
until it either gives out or completes the job. We'll see how it does.
On Sun, 19 Nov 2017 15:23:38 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
>try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
>give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
>right?
>
>https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
>
>I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
>on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
>easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
>
>Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
>that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
>start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
>plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
>I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
>
>What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>
>I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
>Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>
>https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>
>I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
>used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
>that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
>
>https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
I've never had good luck with those really fine-toothed plywood
blades, either for the table saw or circular saws. I have an Avante
80T carbide blade for my TS that isn't terrible. It's no WWII but it
works. I'm not sure what you expect from a $10 blade, though.
BTW, it wasn't in backwards, was it? DAMHIKT ;-)
On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 10:50:39 -0800 (PST), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Getting back to the topic. I wonder if the worse cut from the 200 tooth blade is due to it being steel, while your other blades are carbide. All of my blades are carbide. Table saws and circular saws and miter saws. About the only steel blades I have are for the reciprocating saw. And its not known for making a smooth cut.
There is no reason that steel can't be as sharp as carbide, even
sharper. More likely the problem is the $10. How accurate is the set
in all those teeth? How sharp? High-end blades don't have nearly that
many teeth. The highest I've seen is around 80 for a 10" blade and
that's for solid-surface counter material.
>
>On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 5:23:41 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
>> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
>> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
>> right?
>>
>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
>>
>> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
>> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
>>
>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
>> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
>> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
>> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
>> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
>>
>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>>
>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
>> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>>
>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>>
>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
>> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
>> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
>>
>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> > If it's new, probably.
>
> I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered
>
> > One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
> > I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.
>
> Any suggestions on what to buy?
I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/freud-sc-001-saw-blade-stabilizer-set-3-1-2-diameter-x-5-8-bore
http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers
> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
It might widen it a smidgen.
On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
> right?
>
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
>
> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
>
> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
>
> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>
> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>
> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>
> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
>
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
>
I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.
I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a warning
about it.
For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but because the blade is so
thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving you a crooked cut that is
very hard to control.
In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine.
I use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb
I got it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in plywood.
It looks similar to yours.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 11/19/17 6:37 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I
>>> thought I'd try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much,
>>> but I figured I'd give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade
>>> before. More is better, right?
>>>
>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
>>>
>>>
>>>
I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test
cuts
>>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti
>>> to. An easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
>>>
>>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it
>>> was apparent that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even
>>> maybe a nap or two once I start my project. The amount of effort
>>> required to get through 12" of 3/4" plywood was astounding. I've
>>> got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw. I'm tired just
>>> thinking about using that blade.
>>>
>>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>>>
>>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is
>>> the Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>>>
>>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>>>
>>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that
>>> I've used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I
>>> haven't tried that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
>>>
>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
>>>
>>
>>
>>>
I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
>> Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.
>>
>> I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a
>> warning about it. For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but
>> because the blade is so thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving
>> you a crooked cut that is very hard to control.
>>
>> In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine. I
>> use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
>> http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb I got
>> it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
>> cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in
>> plywood. It looks similar to yours.
>>
>
> I ended up having a chance to try the 84 tooth non-ferrous blade.
> (Dinner wasn't ready yet.)
>
> The 40 tooth General Purpose Diablo still beat it quality wise. Cut
> effort was similar. Just to be sure it wasn't some other factor, I
> put the 40 tooth back on and did one last cut. It's definitely the
> best of the three.
>
> Should I trust this $40 deal?
>
> https://www.ebay.com/i/400561585359?chn=ps&dispctrl=1
>
If it's new, probably.
One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade. Thin kerf
blades can and do bend enough to adversely affect the accuracy of cuts.
I would normally never buy a thin kerf blade since my table saw has
plenty of horse power. But in this case, as I mentioned, I was looking
for a blade with very sharp, very pointy outer teeth. The Marples fit
the bill.
I still use it for the occasional crosscutting on the TS. I has a job
where I needed to cut up about 22 sheets of plywood and didn't want to
use a $100 blade to do it, so I threw the Marples on and was very
pleased with the ease and cleanness of the cut. It was effortless and
didn't have a lot of chip out.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 11/19/17 9:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 9:16:26 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/19/17 6:37 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I
>>>>> thought I'd try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect
>>>>> much, but I figured I'd give it a shot. Never tried a 200
>>>>> tooth blade before. More is better, right?
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>>
I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test
>> cuts
>>>>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the
>>>>> Avanti to. An easy push through the blade and nice clean
>>>>> cut.
>>>>>
>>>>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches,
>>>>> it was apparent that I'll have to take numerous breaks and
>>>>> even maybe a nap or two once I start my project. The amount
>>>>> of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4" plywood was
>>>>> astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table
>>>>> saw. I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
>>>>>
>>>>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>>>>>
>>>>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece
>>>>> is the Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>>>>>
>>>>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>>>>>
>>>>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade
>>>>> that I've used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of
>>>>> aluminum. I haven't tried that yet...don't have time tonight.
>>>>> Thoughts?
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>>
I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
>>>> Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home
>>>> depot.
>>>>
>>>> I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a
>>>> warning about it. For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut
>>>> but because the blade is so thin, it bends and starts to curve,
>>>> giving you a crooked cut that is very hard to control.
>>>>
>>>> In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do
>>>> fine. I use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for
>>>> 40 bucks.
>>>> http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb I
>>>> got it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to
>>>> cross cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect
>>>> cuts in plywood. It looks similar to yours.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I ended up having a chance to try the 84 tooth non-ferrous
>>> blade. (Dinner wasn't ready yet.)
>>>
>>> The 40 tooth General Purpose Diablo still beat it quality wise.
>>> Cut effort was similar. Just to be sure it wasn't some other
>>> factor, I put the 40 tooth back on and did one last cut. It's
>>> definitely the best of the three.
>>>
>>> Should I trust this $40 deal?
>>>
>>> https://www.ebay.com/i/400561585359?chn=ps&dispctrl=1
>>>
>>
>> If it's new, probably.
>
> I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered
>
>> One caveat I forgot to mention, though. I used blade stabilizers,
>> as I do with any thin kerf blade.
>
> Any suggestions on what to buy?
>
Whatever's cheap. They're not rocket science.
> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the
> blade?
>
Yes. But, you'll need a new ZCI for the different kerf anyway.
They are easy to make and you should have one for each thickness blade
if you really want to take advantage of what a ZCI can do (prevent
tearout).
While we're on the subject, the blade stabilizers will help to keep the
slot in the ZCI tight against the blade. When the blade can wobble, it
will widen the slot allowing tearout.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>> If it's new, probably.
>>
>> I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered
>>
>>> One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
>>> I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.
>>
>> Any suggestions on what to buy?
>
> I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.
>
> https://www.woodcraft.com/products/freud-sc-001-saw-blade-stabilizer-set-3-1-2-diameter-x-5-8-bore
>
> http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers
>
>> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
>
> It might widen it a smidgen.
>
It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
probably 1/8".
So you now have a slot 1/8" wider than your blade which negates the
benefits of a ZCI on the motor side.
If you do all your cutting on the blade side it won't make a difference
to the quality of the cut. But if you cut on the motor side, you'll get
some tearout.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On Sun, 19 Nov 2017 21:15:02 -0500
Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
> Well, everything is relative. It is better than say, a steak knife.
> Makes you wonder how a product like that gets on the store shelf. I
> guess the manufacturer has no shame.
another sign of the degradation of the supply chain to the consumer
instead of the buyer for home depot insisting on quality they buy
from some pre approved supplier
On Sun, 19 Nov 2017 15:23:38 -0800 (PST)
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few
> test cuts on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the
> Avanti to. An easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
put a 8 inch diablo on my 10 inch table saw and it is amazing
bought the blade for my mitre saw but thought why not try it
thinking about it the 8 inch may be a little stiffer since it is shorter
span from spindle to blade tip and it is slower too
it is very quiet
those diablo blades for my skilsaw make it feel like a different saw
it is the thin kerf the tip design and spacing and the stress
relievers in the blade face
make sure you make a new zero clearance insert for your ts
On 11/20/17 1:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 1:50:42 PM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
>> Getting back to the topic. I wonder if the worse cut from the 200 tooth blade is due to it being steel, while your other blades are carbide. All of my blades are carbide. Table saws and circular saws and miter saws. About the only steel blades I have are for the reciprocating saw. And its not known for making a smooth cut.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 5:23:41 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
>>> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
>>> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
>>> right?
>>>
>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
>>>
>>> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
>>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
>>> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
>>>
>>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
>>> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
>>> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
>>> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
>>> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
>>>
>>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>>>
>>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
>>> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>>>
>>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>>>
>>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
>>> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
>>> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
>>>
>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
>
> That could be it. I knew it was steel when I bought it, and I knew not to expect much for $10.
>
> Here's what happened. I was recently perusing an article on cutting sheet goods on a table saw.
> They mentioned picking up an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blade for the best cuts.
> So I get to HD and see an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blade. I said myself "I'm
> sure this won't be any good, but it's worth a quick test.
>
> It's already packaged back up and ready to be returned.
>
They don't even make good clocks.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 11/20/17 4:53 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
>>>
>>> It might widen it a smidgen.
>>>
>>
>> It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
>> It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
>> probably 1/8".
>
> Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
> changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.
>
> If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
> impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.
>
Well, they most often come in pairs, so they do "belong" on both sides.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 11/20/17 6:17 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 11/20/17 4:53 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
>>>>>
>>>>> It might widen it a smidgen.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
>>>> It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
>>>> probably 1/8".
>>>
>>> Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
>>> changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.
>>>
>>> If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
>>> impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.
>>>
>>
>> Well, they most often come in pairs, so they do "belong" on both sides.
>
> Your experience and mine differ; I've *never* seen them in pairs, only singles.
>
Better not google it or you'll break that record. :-p
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 11/20/17 8:19 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 17:35:39 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 11/19/2017 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
>>> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
>>> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
>>> right?
>>>
>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
>>>
>>> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
>>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
>>> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
>>>
>>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
>>> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
>>> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
>>> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
>>> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
>>>
>>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>>>
>>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
>>> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>>>
>>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>>>
>>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
>>> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
>>> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
>>>
>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
>>>
>>
>> Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.
>>
>> My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey
>> but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a
>> stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.
>
> Perhaps but the Freud Glue-Line Rip is one sweet blade. Another
> useful blade is the #1 grind.
>
I love the Glue-Line!
Is the #1 grind the flat top one?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 11/20/17 9:21 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 7:21:55 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/20/17 6:17 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> On 11/20/17 4:53 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>>>>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It might widen it a smidgen.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
>>>>>> It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
>>>>>> probably 1/8".
>>>>>
>>>>> Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
>>>>> changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.
>>>>>
>>>>> If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
>>>>> impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Well, they most often come in pairs, so they do "belong" on both sides.
>>>
>>> Your experience and mine differ; I've *never* seen them in pairs, only singles.
>>>
>>
>> Better not google it or you'll break that record. :-p
>>
>>
>
> If you plan to use just one, use this one.
>
> http://www.wonders-in-wood.us/images/ridgid/stiffener.jpg
>
You win! LMAO.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 11/21/17 7:28 AM, Leon wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>> If it's new, probably.
>>>>
>>>> I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered
>>>>
>>>>> One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
>>>>> I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.
>>>>
>>>> Any suggestions on what to buy?
>>>
>>> I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.
>>>
>>> https://www.woodcraft.com/products/freud-sc-001-saw-blade-stabilizer-set-3-1-2-diameter-x-5-8-bore
>>>
>>> http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers
>>>
>>>> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
>>>
>>> It might widen it a smidgen.
>>>
>>
>> It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
>> It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
>> probably 1/8".
>> So you now have a slot 1/8" wider than your blade which negates the
>> benefits of a ZCI on the motor side.
>> If you do all your cutting on the blade side it won't make a difference
>> to the quality of the cut. But if you cut on the motor side, you'll get
>> some tearout.
>>
>>
>
> Whaaaaaaaaat? :-). Do all your cutting on the blade side? Maybe you
> meant nut side.
>
> But, regardless of where the gap is at you are likely to need/use the
> pieces from both sides of the cut. So the usable scrap will possibly have
> some splintering.
>
> AND, yes using the double set stabilizer will widen the slot.
>
Yeah, I guess that doesn't make sense.
Also you could cut long and flip over to make the final cut.
But yeah, just make a new ZCI and be done with it.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 11/21/17 5:45 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, November 21, 2017 at 9:53:47 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/21/17 7:28 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>> If it's new, probably.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping.
>>>>>> Ordered
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> One caveat I forgot to mention, though. I used blade
>>>>>>> stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any suggestions on what to buy?
>>>>>
>>>>> I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.woodcraft.com/products/freud-sc-001-saw-blade-stabilizer-set-3-1-2-diameter-x-5-8-bore
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers
>>>>>
>>>>>> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by
>>>>>> moving the blade?
>>>>>
>>>>> It might widen it a smidgen.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It's going to do a lot more than widen it. It's going to move
>>>> it over the width of the stabilizer, which is probably 1/8". So
>>>> you now have a slot 1/8" wider than your blade which negates
>>>> the benefits of a ZCI on the motor side. If you do all your
>>>> cutting on the blade side it won't make a difference to the
>>>> quality of the cut. But if you cut on the motor side, you'll
>>>> get some tearout.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Whaaaaaaaaat? :-). Do all your cutting on the blade side?
>>> Maybe you meant nut side.
>>>
>>> But, regardless of where the gap is at you are likely to need/use
>>> the pieces from both sides of the cut. So the usable scrap will
>>> possibly have some splintering.
>>>
>>> AND, yes using the double set stabilizer will widen the slot.
>>>
>>
>> Yeah, I guess that doesn't make sense. Also you could cut long and
>> flip over to make the final cut. But yeah, just make a new ZCI and
>> be done with it.
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>
> And a new sled? I'd rather not.
>
You don't even need aZCI with a sled, but you can do what I do.
I use a sacrificial top on my sled. It's thin MDF (3/16"?) screwed down
to the sled that I just move over to cover the slot. The first pass
through the blade give you your ZC line. When you switch to a larger
blade/stack, it cuts through the sacrificial top to make a wider ZC line.
When you switch to a narrower blade, you just unscrew the MDF, move it
over to close the gap, screw it down, and start over. Very fast and
effective.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 11/25/17 4:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
>>> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
>>> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
>>> right?
>>>
>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
>>>
>>> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
>>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
>>> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
>>>
>>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
>>> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
>>> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
>>> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
>>> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
>>>
>>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>>>
>>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
>>> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>>>
>>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>>>
>>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
>>> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
>>> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
>>>
>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
>>>
>>
>> I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
>> Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.
>>
>> I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a warning
>> about it.
>> For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but because the blade is so
>> thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving you a crooked cut that is
>> very hard to control.
>>
>> In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine.
>> I use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
>> http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb
>> I got it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
>> cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in plywood.
>> It looks similar to yours.
>>
>>
>
> I just tried out the irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb that I got on eBay
> for $38.
>
> First, it's the same thickness as the $30 40-tooth Diablo that had won the
> earlier quality-of-cut trials. 3/32". No need for a new ZCI or sacrificial
> top on the sled.
>
> As far as quality-of-cut, I'll give it a slightly higher rating than the
> $30 Diablo. $38 vs. $30 better? Barely. Full price at $50-$60 vs. $30 better?
> Definitely not.
>
> I can't speak to longevity since I don't cut a lot of plywood, but my bookcase
> project should give me some indication. I'll run the Irwin for the plywood
> until it either gives out or completes the job. We'll see how it does.
>
Good info, thanks.
If you don't mind, I'd love to hear the results of a test between those
two blades on hardwood crosscuts.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 11/25/17 7:22 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Saturday, November 25, 2017 at 7:25:36 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/25/17 4:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
>>>>> try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
>>>>> give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
>>>>> right?
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
>>>>>
>>>>> I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
>>>>> on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
>>>>> easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
>>>>>
>>>>> Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
>>>>> that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
>>>>> start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"yay
>>>>> plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
>>>>> I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
>>>>>
>>>>> What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
>>>>>
>>>>> I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
>>>>> Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.
>>>>>
>>>>> https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg
>>>>>
>>>>> I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
>>>>> used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
>>>>> that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Tooth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
>>>> Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.
>>>>
>>>> I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a warning
>>>> about it.
>>>> For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but because the blade is so
>>>> thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving you a crooked cut that is
>>>> very hard to control.
>>>>
>>>> In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine.
>>>> I use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
>>>> http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb
>>>> I got it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
>>>> cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in plywood.
>>>> It looks similar to yours.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I just tried out the irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb that I got on eBay
>>> for $38.
>>>
>>> First, it's the same thickness as the $30 40-tooth Diablo that had won the
>>> earlier quality-of-cut trials. 3/32". No need for a new ZCI or sacrificial
>>> top on the sled.
>>>
>>> As far as quality-of-cut, I'll give it a slightly higher rating than the
>>> $30 Diablo. $38 vs. $30 better? Barely. Full price at $50-$60 vs. $30 better?
>>> Definitely not.
>>>
>>> I can't speak to longevity since I don't cut a lot of plywood, but my bookcase
>>> project should give me some indication. I'll run the Irwin for the plywood
>>> until it either gives out or completes the job. We'll see how it does.
>>>
>>
>> Good info, thanks.
>> If you don't mind, I'd love to hear the results of a test between those
>> two blades on hardwood crosscuts.
>>
>
> If you have any particular species in mind, just send me a couple of hundred BF so
> we make sure I test a large enough sample size. ;-)
>
Every respectable woodworker has some poplar, oak, or maple scraps
sitting in a bin somewhere.
Are you respectable? :-p
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On Sun, 26 Nov 2017 12:03:49 -0600, Markem wrote:
> On 26 Nov 2017 06:17:59 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>That sounds delicious. Does it make a good mix with turkey gravy? :-)
>>
>>Puckdropper
>
> Do not know but a bread baker (large corp) did use saw dust cause it is
> added fiber.
I've heard of a sausage maker using sawdust, because in these troubled
economic times, it's hard to make both ends meat.
Cheers,
Colin
On 11/27/17 6:40 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> I tested 3 blades today.
>
> 1 - A Bosch 60 tooth blade that came with my miter saw. It's on my
> miter saw right now for some crap cuts, so I figured I might as well
> try it for comparison.
>
> 2 - A Diablo 40 tooth general purpose blade on the table saw. This is
> my "standard" blade. The one on the table saw is basically new. I have
> another one that I plan to get sharpened.
>
> 3 - An Irwin-Marples 80 tooth Hi-ATB blade on the table saw.
>
> I cross-cut 3 species using a sled: Poplar, Maple and Padauk
>
> I made my choice of the smoothest cut and then had SWMBO give me her
> opinion. She was totally unbiased because she had no idea which blade
> made which cut. Her test was 100% tactile.
>
> Without hesitation, the Bosch cut on the miter saw was deemed the worst
> in all three cases. No surprise. Single finger swipe, decision made.
>
> The comparison between the Diablo blade and the Irwin blade was much more
> difficult. For both of us, it took multiple swipes before a decision was
> made. For the Paduak and the Poplar, we both felt that the Irwin was slightly
> smoother than the Diablo. For the Maple, we both chose the Diablo.
>
> After SWMBO made her choices, I told her the price of the blades. She agreed
> that in the cases where the Irwin was smoother, an $8 higher price (eBay) was
> reasonable. When I told her that the Irwin typically sold for $50-$60, she
> agreed that a $20-$30 price difference was not reflected in the difference
> in the quality of cut.
>
> Comparing longevity will be tougher. Maybe I'll leave that to someone else.
>
> For now, I'll leave the Irwin on the table saw and put the Diablo on the
> miter saw. That will get me through my bookcase project with 2 blades
> that perform close enough to "equally well" for my purposes.
>
Thanks for the informative comparison review.
Were all the blades thin kerf?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 11/21/2017 12:11 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 5:35:50 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>
>> Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.
>>
>> My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey
>> but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a
>> stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.
>
> Of all the years of being in and out of cabinet shops (and using blades myself) I have never seen a higher tooth count than 80 (on 12" saws) and usually no more than 60 tooth count on 12" or 10". Production cabinet shops design cabinets to hide their cuts, so speed and accuracy of dimension are just as important as splinter problems.
>
> They use brands of blades that I only see when I am in their shops, and the blades are selected by the size of carbide tips (determines the times they can be sharpened) and by the type of carbide (at least C3), the tooth design and quality of original manufacture.
>
> The only time I see the super high tooth count blades is on mitering machines of some sort that cut specialty moldings.
>
> Robert
>
Systematic ring a bell? That was my first good quality blade, a local
and old picture framing shop used them on their miter saws.
On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 22:53:51 -0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
<[email protected]> wrote:
>-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?
>>>
>>> It might widen it a smidgen.
>>>
>>
>> It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
>> It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
>> probably 1/8".
>
>Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
>changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.
>
>If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
>impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.
If you use two stabilizers one on each side of the blade, the ones I
have came in a pair. Then the answer is yes.