I'm just beginning to make M&T joints, and I've seen at least 3-4
general ways to mill mortices:
Dedicated Mortising Machine
Router
Router plus corner cleanout
By hand, using chisels
What kind do *you* use, and why?
--
Vince Heuring ECE Department, University of Colorado - Boulder
To email, remove the Vince.
Vince Heuring <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<150920031354436813%[email protected]>...
> I'm just beginning to make M&T joints, and I've seen at least 3-4
> general ways to mill mortices:
>
> Dedicated Mortising Machine
> Router
> Router plus corner cleanout
> By hand, using chisels
>
> What kind do *you* use, and why?
I use my DW625 which has offset router base.
I figure out if you fit a 12mm stright bit and router the tenon piece
with one side of the base riding on a stright edge and turn to another
side of the base for routing the other tenon face, you will get a
perfect 12mm width tenon. Use the same bit and edge guide to route
mortise and I have a perfect machine fit joint and the tenon shoulder
is level on all sides.
The good thing come with this method is that you only set up the
stright edge once and do the tenons like production run. Since the
workpiece is clamp down, I can route in the wrong direction which
eliminates chip out.
yy
Hand router, pix and text at:
http://www.patwarner.com/morticer.html
*******************************************************************
> I'm just beginning to make M&T joints, and I've seen at least 3-4
> general ways to mill mortices:
>
> Dedicated Mortising Machine
> Router
> Router plus corner cleanout
> By hand, using chisels
>
> What kind do *you* use, and why?
Dedicated Mortising Machine for me :)
Just a little quicker, and very valuable when time is a rare commodity!
--
Regards,
Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
------------------------------------------------------------
Latest 5 Reviews:
- Woodworking Techniques & Projects
- Kreg Right Angle Clamp
- Bosch 3912 (GCM12) 12" Compound Miter Saw
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------------------------------------------------------------
Martin Frankel <[email protected]> wrote:
: Luigi Zanasi wrote:
:> I use mortice for the noun & mortise for the verb, on the advice/advise
:> model.
: What about pronunciation? Do you use a "mor-tize-ing" chisel to cut a
: "mor-tis"? :) Please "ad-vize".
Or, along the lines of choice/choose, should I mortoose my mortices :) ?
Norm
You forgot my way: drill press out waste with forstner bit and chisel
out remaining waste. I'd rather pound them out by hand with a mortise
chisel but I don't think my downstairs neighbor would appreciate that.
:-)
Layne
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 13:54:43 -0600, Vince Heuring
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm just beginning to make M&T joints, and I've seen at least 3-4
>general ways to mill mortices:
>
>Dedicated Mortising Machine
>Router
>Router plus corner cleanout
>By hand, using chisels
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:150920031354436813%[email protected]...
>
> I'm just beginning to make M&T joints, and I've seen at least 3-4
> general ways to mill mortices:
>
> Dedicated Mortising Machine
> Router
> Router plus corner cleanout
> By hand, using chisels
>
> What kind do *you* use, and why?
>
> --
> Vince Heuring ECE Department, University of Colorado - Boulder
> To email, remove the Vince.
By hand with a mortise chisel and a swan-necked chisel for clean up.
I don't drill out first, but instead use the method descibed on Jeff
Gorman's (excellent) website.
why? 'cos I don't cut a high volume by many folk's standards around here,
and because I'm enjoying honing the technique.
For tenons I cheat a little, cut the shoulders first, and remove to
thickness using a router and a quick'n'dirty mdf jig. Mostly because I
don't own a decent tenon saw yet.
cheers
Richard
--
Richard Sampson
email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk
> Vince Heuring <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:150920031354436813%[email protected]:
>
> >
> > I'm just beginning to make M&T joints, and I've seen at
> > least 3-4 general ways to mill mortices:
> >
> > Dedicated Mortising Machine
> > Router
> > Router plus corner cleanout
> > By hand, using chisels
> >
> > What kind do *you* use, and why?
The what is a drill press and cleanup with chisels. Tenons on the bandsaw.
The why is that is what I had to work with.
To clarify, I built a Tudor style garden bench with about 50 M & T joints.
It was, for me, quite an undertaking as I've never done that type of joint.
It gives new respect for the guys that make such beautiful joints,
especially the neander way.
If I was to do it again, I'd probably invest in a dedicated mortising
machine and a tenon fixture for the table saw. That works out to about $7 a
joint for that project.
Ed
On 15-Sep-2003, B a r r y B u r k e J r . <[email protected]> wrote:
> >(even though there's a clearout down the road on a Bosch 1617EVS
> > @ $100 off... whimper...)
>
>
> WHERE???
Mississauga, ON. Canadian Tire - they seem to be dumping Bosch from
the stores and only selling online. The stores are stocked with cheap
brands. That's C$, not US$ so it's more like US$73 off.
Mike
On 15 Sep 2003, Vince Heuring spake unto rec.woodworking:
>
> What kind do *you* use
=> By hand, using chisels
> and why?
A number of reasons. It's quick, fun, and very satisfying. Thwacking a
mortise chisel with a mallet and prying out the waste is gratifying, hands-
on woodworking, and not difficult with a bit of practice. I get consistent
results, and a bit of exercise in the bargain.
Scott
Vince Heuring <[email protected]> wrote in
news:150920031354436813%[email protected]:
>
> I'm just beginning to make M&T joints, and I've seen at
> least 3-4 general ways to mill mortices:
>
> Dedicated Mortising Machine
> Router
> Router plus corner cleanout
> By hand, using chisels
>
> What kind do *you* use, and why?
>
Hand chiseled for the small one-offs. Drill press followed with
chisels to clean for repetitive cuts. Own a router, but haven't
even cranked it up yet. I always seem to do the work with a
hand tool or other method so far.
Table saw and occasional handsaw for the tenons. Cleanup with a
sharp knife for fit (I tend to make them a little large so I can
trim down for a very TIGHT fit) and a small plane I picked up
somewhere once.
______________________________________________________________________
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Vince Heuring wrote:
> I'm just beginning to make M&T joints, and I've seen at least 3-4
> general ways to mill mortices:
>
> Dedicated Mortising Machine
> Router
> Router plus corner cleanout
> By hand, using chisels
you forgot horizontal router table (or boring machine)...
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:150920031354436813%[email protected]...
> What kind do *you* use,
Dedicated Mortising Machine (cheapest I could find on Ebay)
>and why?
Having taken up WW only 6 - 7 months ago after a 25+ year gap, I can
achieve near perfect fitting M&T joints with very little if any skill. Also
it's a lot quicker than by hand.
I did try using a router at first, but as I don't have a proper router
table I didn't get very good results.
Graham
Vince Heuring wrote:
> Dedicated Mortising Machine
> Router
> Router plus corner cleanout
> By hand, using chisels
>
> What kind do *you* use, and why?
Does drill press and forstner bit followed by chisels fall into any of
the above? I've only done two mortises so far, but that's how I did it.
That was Norm's way before he got the attachment for his drill press,
and then the dedicated mortiser.
Dan
Dan <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Vince Heuring wrote:
> > Dedicated Mortising Machine
> > Router
> > Router plus corner cleanout
> > By hand, using chisels
> >
> > What kind do *you* use, and why?
>
> Does drill press and forstner bit followed by chisels fall into any of
> the above? I've only done two mortises so far, but that's how I did it.
> That was Norm's way before he got the attachment for his drill press,
> and then the dedicated mortiser.
>
> Dan
I second that. Why? Best method with the tools I own and I don't
have a mortising chisel so it is "almost" hand cut.
-Chris
Router with edge guide and home-made jigs.
Very quick, clean, and consistent mortices.
With saw-cut or routed tenons I square the mortices because I've messed up
too many shoulders while rounding tenons. With loose tenons the tenon stock
is rounded to match the mortice ends.
For my first project with dozens of small spindles I'll be looking for a
dedicated morticer.
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:150920031354436813%[email protected]...
>
> I'm just beginning to make M&T joints, and I've seen at least 3-4
> general ways to mill mortices:
>
> Dedicated Mortising Machine
> Router
> Router plus corner cleanout
> By hand, using chisels
>
> What kind do *you* use, and why?
>
> --
> Vince Heuring ECE Department, University of Colorado - Boulder
> To email, remove the Vince.
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:150920031354436813%[email protected]...
>
> I'm just beginning to make M&T joints, and I've seen at least 3-4
> general ways to mill mortices:
>
> Dedicated Mortising Machine
I had the Jet - quicker, positive placement for exactness, and I was doing a
lot of work. The production flew by.
Jim
Floating tenons. Beadlock. Quick...easy.....accurate.
TomL
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 13:54:43 -0600, Vince Heuring
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I'm just beginning to make M&T joints, and I've seen at least 3-4
>general ways to mill mortices:
>
>Dedicated Mortising Machine
>Router
>Router plus corner cleanout
>By hand, using chisels
>
>What kind do *you* use, and why?
On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 11:14:04 -0700, Martin Frankel
<[email protected]> scribbled
>
>Luigi Zanasi wrote:
>> I use mortice for the noun & mortise for the verb, on the advice/advise
>> model.
>
>What about pronunciation? Do you use a "mor-tize-ing" chisel to cut a
>"mor-tis"? :) Please "ad-vize".
I would like to advice you that in English, unlike most other
languages (with the notable exception of French), pronounciation has
very little to do with the way a word is spelled. So my advise is
pronounce it the way you want. :-)
Note that mortice/mortise is one of the many exceptions to one of the
few clear clues to pronounciation that English has, i.e. that an "e"
following a consonant indicates that the preceding vowel has a long
sound.
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 13:54:43 -0600, Vince Heuring
<[email protected]> scribbled
>
>I'm just beginning to make M&T joints, and I've seen at least 3-4
>general ways to mill mortices:
>
>Dedicated Mortising Machine
>Router
>Router plus corner cleanout
>By hand, using chisels
>
>What kind do *you* use, and why?
Lessee:
Made open mortices (bridle joints) on the table saw for many years.
One pass with a dado blade, with the work piece held vertically. Why:
did not have the tools to make them otherwise.
Also made mortices by laminating three pieces of wood, with the middle
one the width of the mortice and a gap of the appropriate length.
Cleaned the glue out of the corners with a chisel. Why: It was usually
on a thick pieces of wood. Made sense in the applications I used (e.g.
base for a plant stand).
On the posts & beams in my solarium: hand drill (with home made guide)
& cleaned up with chisel. Why: no router or mortiser or drill press
mortising attachment could make them deep enough. Could not justify
$2,000 chain mortiser for ~20 mortises, although I would have loved to
get one.
On greenhouse windows, got a delta mortising attachment for my drill
press. Why: I needed a mortice in the middle of the stile, so open
mortices done on the table saw (what I had been using up to that
point) could not work. Couldn't afford (or couldn't really justify)
buying a plunge router at that time.
On solarium windows, plunge router with long 1/2" bit & a home-made
jig. Why: wanted a plunge router and nice, accurate clean-sided
mortices. Rounded most of the tenon over with a roundover bit in the
router table, and finished the end of the tenon (close to the
shoulder) with a Lee Valley flush plane (#05P20.01). Why: experimented
with many methods including squaring the mortice corners with a
regular chisel and a corner chisel, and rounding over the tenons with
a rasp, sandpaper, sander, router table with regular chisel for the
clean-up. This was the fastest method.
Given a choice in the future, I would use the last method. Why:
accurate, clean mortice cheeks and, consequently, a presumably better
glue joint.
But, next, I gotta try doing them by hand, but I have to get good
mortising chisels first.
Note that the mortice/mortise spelling choices are quite deliberate. I
use mortice for the noun & mortise for the verb, on the advice/advise
model. I would like to propose that we wreckers make that the official
spelling so we have one more reason to bug newbies about their
spelling.
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
On 15-Sep-2003, Vince Heuring <[email protected]> wrote:
> What kind do *you* use,
Drill holes with a hand drill and brad points, finish
with chisels.
> and why?
Cause I'm a) beginner at M&T joints and b) too broke to buy a
router, drill press and mortice attachment or any other fancy gadget
(even though there's a clearout down the road on a Bosch 1617EVS
@ $100 off... whimper...)
Mike
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 20:48:19 GMT, "Michael Daly"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>(even though there's a clearout down the road on a Bosch 1617EVS
> @ $100 off... whimper...)
WHERE???
I want another.
Thanks,
Barry
>
> Note that mortice/mortise is one of the many exceptions to one of the
> few clear clues to pronounciation that English has, i.e. that an "e"
> following a consonant indicates that the preceding vowel has a long
> sound.
>
> Luigi
=========================
I had to laugh at getting a lession on the English Language from a guy
named Luigi....
BUT if anyone needs at least 100 such lessions .. I'm the guy...
Bob Griffiths
Big old Powermatic #10 standup mortiser for cabinet work. Why -- because I
like big old machines and they work great. Portable Makita chain mortiser
for timber frame work, followed by cleanup with a sharp chisel. Why --
because there are alot of mortises in the average timber frame. I also
occassionally do them with one of my antique hand powered Millers Falls
mortisers if there aren't too many.
--
Ross
www.myoldtools.com
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:150920031354436813%[email protected]...
>
> I'm just beginning to make M&T joints, and I've seen at least 3-4
> general ways to mill mortices:
>
> Dedicated Mortising Machine
> Router
> Router plus corner cleanout
> By hand, using chisels
>
> What kind do *you* use, and why?
>
> --
> Vince Heuring ECE Department, University of Colorado - Boulder
> To email, remove the Vince.