I made a sort of cubbyhole unit to mount over my desk. It's a long box
about 5' x 1' x 1' with two vertical dividers splitting it into three
sections. For reasons that no longer seem so smart, the main box is
made of some sort of hardwood plywood (I was told it was oak but I'm
pretty sure it isn't) and the face frame is made of 1 x 2 oak. All of
it is stained a dark red/cordovan (to match other furniture in the
room).
I have chosen to finish the face frame with Minwax Tung Oil finish (3
coats, steel wool in-between) and then wax. The "box" will just have
two coats of satin poly for ease and durability. There will be all
sorts of stuff in this unit (bills, books, fax machine) so the inside
won't be that visible.
I decided that it would be easier to do the two different finishing
methods before the face frame is glued to the box. But it has now
occurred to me, after two coats of the Minwax product, that I will
have to clamp the "finished" face frame on while gluing.
My plan is to put on the last coat of Tung Oil Finish on and let it
dry for at least a day, then glue and clamp it WITHOUT steel-wooling.
Once the clamps come off I'll steel wool the face frame and wax it.
I'm hoping that any marks left by the clamping will be erased by the
steel wool. If that fails, I guess I could sand it little more
agressively and then put on another coat of the Tung Oil Finish.
I'm wondering if there's anything I should put between the pipe clamp
jaws and the finished wood besides the usual wood blocks. Do you think
the wood blocks might stick to the finish? Any other tips?
Greg Guarino
"Greg Guarino"
Snip
> I decided that it would be easier to do the two different finishing
> methods before the face frame is glued to the box. But it has now
> occurred to me, after two coats of the Minwax product, that I will
> have to clamp the "finished" face frame on while gluing.
>
> I'm wondering if there's anything I should put between the pipe clamp
> jaws and the finished wood besides the usual wood blocks. Do you think
> the wood blocks might stick to the finish? Any other tips?
As swingman said, use cork on a wood block but I would add to cover the cork
with clear packing tape or waxed paper. Sometimes the cork will stick to a
fresh finish. Don't over tighten the clamps and when using PVA glues its
not necessary to leave the clamps on more that a few hours.
Dave
Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com
On Tue, 30 May 2006 18:40:03 GMT, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm wondering if there's anything I should put between the pipe clamp
>jaws and the finished wood besides the usual wood blocks. Do you think
>the wood blocks might stick to the finish? Any other tips?
Pony sells some slip-on pipe clamp covers that are made of a sort of
soft plastic and work pretty well.
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> What is PVA glue? I've been using Titebond Wood Glue.
>
> Titebond is a PVA. Poly Vinyl Acytate (sp?), I think. Carpenters'
> glue.
Most of what Titebond offers is PVA however Titebond also sells Polyurethane
glue which is not PVA.
Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Tue, 30 May 2006 13:18:40 -0700, "Teamcasa" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Greg Guarino"
>>Snip
>>> I decided that it would be easier to do the two different finishing
>>> methods before the face frame is glued to the box. But it has now
>>> occurred to me, after two coats of the Minwax product, that I will
>>> have to clamp the "finished" face frame on while gluing.
>>>
>>> I'm wondering if there's anything I should put between the pipe
>>> clamp jaws and the finished wood besides the usual wood blocks. Do
>>> you think the wood blocks might stick to the finish? Any other tips?
>>
>>As swingman said, use cork on a wood block but I would add to cover
>>the cork with clear packing tape or waxed paper.
>
> OK. I think I get it: Cork for no hard edges, like a wood block would
> have, something non-sticky and non-porous over it. But what about my
> idea of leaving the final steel wool step and the wax for AFTER I take
> the clamps off? Does this make any sense?
Synthetic steel wool (the white 3M pad) and wax AFTER is just fine.
Probably better if you wait a week, but hey, it needs to cure, not just
dry.
>
>>Sometimes the cork will stick to a
>>fresh finish. Don't over tighten the clamps and when using PVA glues
>>its not necessary to leave the clamps on more that a few hours.
>
> What is PVA glue? I've been using Titebond Wood Glue.
Titebond is a PVA. Poly Vinyl Acytate (sp?), I think. Carpenters'
glue.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Greg
>
You're welcome.
Patriarch (& others)
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> "Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>> What is PVA glue? I've been using Titebond Wood Glue.
>>
>> Titebond is a PVA. Poly Vinyl Acytate (sp?), I think. Carpenters'
>> glue.
>
> Most of what Titebond offers is PVA however Titebond also sells
> Polyurethane glue which is not PVA.
And that stuff worked for me, too, on certain projects. Not all.
Threw the bottle out after it crytalized, although that took a couple of
years past its expected stale date.
Patriarch
On Tue, 30 May 2006 13:18:40 -0700, "Teamcasa" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Greg Guarino"
>Snip
>> I decided that it would be easier to do the two different finishing
>> methods before the face frame is glued to the box. But it has now
>> occurred to me, after two coats of the Minwax product, that I will
>> have to clamp the "finished" face frame on while gluing.
>>
>> I'm wondering if there's anything I should put between the pipe clamp
>> jaws and the finished wood besides the usual wood blocks. Do you think
>> the wood blocks might stick to the finish? Any other tips?
>
>As swingman said, use cork on a wood block but I would add to cover the cork
>with clear packing tape or waxed paper.
OK. I think I get it: Cork for no hard edges, like a wood block would
have, something non-sticky and non-porous over it. But what about my
idea of leaving the final steel wool step and the wax for AFTER I take
the clamps off? Does this make any sense?
>Sometimes the cork will stick to a
>fresh finish. Don't over tighten the clamps and when using PVA glues its
>not necessary to leave the clamps on more that a few hours.
What is PVA glue? I've been using Titebond Wood Glue.
Thanks in advance.
Greg
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message
> I'm wondering if there's anything I should put between the pipe clamp
> jaws and the finished wood besides the usual wood blocks. Do you think
> the wood blocks might stick to the finish? Any other tips?
Cork works well and can be bought in sheets at many fabric and hobby stores.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/6/06
I've gotten into the habit of putting a "protection" coat of poly on
pieces before gluing them together (er, mill wood, poly, then cut
mortises and tenons) so that I don't have to worry about glue ruining
the finish later. However, I only do one or two thinned coats, and
re-sand and re-finish after gluing.
I've also been finishing drawer bottoms and door panels before
installing them, so I don't get unfinished lines around the edges when
the panels shrink later.