"Spyro" <Spyro@[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello fellow woodworkers :)
>
> Im making a fence with 4x4 posts. Is it possible to saw them using a
> handsaw with almost or perfect result?
>
> What kind of handsaw do I need?
>
> Yours Sincerely
> Tom
>
Almost impossible if you cut the posts at the correct time. Don't cut the
posts before putting them in the ground. Cut after you have them set and I
would advise cutting with a circle saw.
On 9 Aug, 16:18, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Spyro" <Spyro@[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > Hello fellow woodworkers :)
>
> > Im making a fence with 4x4 posts. Is it possible to saw them using a
> > handsaw with almost or perfect result?
>
> > What kind of handsaw do I need?
>
> > Yours Sincerely
> > Tom
>
> Almost impossible if you cut the posts at the correct time. Don't cut the
> posts before putting them in the ground. Cut after you have them set and I
> would advise cutting with a circle saw.
Thank for replying. Im not going to plant the posts in the ground. I
have those metalpoles which Im going to fasten the posts in. I got a
tip of using my Dewalt 707 and cut half of it and then turn the post
and cut the rest. Think Im going to try that.
On Aug 9, 8:11 am, Spyro <Spyro@[email protected]> wrote:
> Hello fellow woodworkers :)
>
> Im making a fence with 4x4 posts. Is it possible to saw them using a handsaw with almost or perfect result?
>
> What kind of handsaw do I need?
>
> Yours Sincerely
> Tom
Tom, It can be done with a hand saw. A crosscut saw, if it's sharp,
will work very well. All you need is an accurate square, and
something to mark with - pencil, scribe or whatever works.
Start on one face and mark a line at the proper location. Continue
the line around all 4 sides. If accurate, the line will meet the
first line. Then saw to the line across the top of the board, and
down the side facing you. The two lines you can see will keep the saw
cutting square. As you get about half way down the side facing you,
rotate the post away from you, bringing the third side into view. The
existing kerf will keep the far side of the saw alligned as you cut
down the third side. Then repeat for the 4th side. If a little care
is used, you will get a nice square cut.
And it never hurts to do a practice run on a piece of scrap!
Hope this helps.
Rich.....
On 9 Aug, 23:11, "Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Spyro" <Spyro@[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > Hello fellow woodworkers :)
>
> > Im making a fence with 4x4 posts. Is it possible to saw them using a
> > handsaw with almost or perfect result?
>
> > What kind of handsaw do I need?
>
> > Yours Sincerely
> > Tom
>
> Keep in mind that you don't want to cut them square, unless you have some
> kind of cap going on the top ends. Cut them at about a 15 degree angle from
> all four sides, leaving a pyramid top that will shed water. Makes the
> concept of a perfect cut a little less important too.
>
> --
> ********
> Bill Poundshttp://www.billpounds.com
Ah, thank you very much. An amateur as me would have not thought about
that. In another group I have been told to use a japanese saw. Think I
am going to try with that.
"Spyro" <Spyro@[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello fellow woodworkers :)
>
> Im making a fence with 4x4 posts. Is it possible to saw them using a
> handsaw with almost or perfect result?
>
> What kind of handsaw do I need?
>
> Yours Sincerely
> Tom
>
Keep in mind that you don't want to cut them square, unless you have some
kind of cap going on the top ends. Cut them at about a 15 degree angle from
all four sides, leaving a pyramid top that will shed water. Makes the
concept of a perfect cut a little less important too.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
"Puckdropper" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> "Mike Patterson" wrote in message
>>
>>> On Thu, 9 Aug 2007 17:11:01 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:
>>
>>>>
>>>>In the old days I could _precisely_ set the height of a fence post by
>>>>the surgical application of a post hole digger and one half of a pair
>>>>of Sears Roebuck brogans.
>>>>
>>>> ... dig a little deeper than necessary, then kick in an appropriate
>>>> amount
>>>>of dirt.
>>
>>> If you want a 6' fencepost, well sure. But if you want say a 4' post,
>>> digging 4'+ down to backfill 3 " seems a little...tiring.
>>
>> Really now? Anyone who needs 4' posts and is too damn stupid to buy 8
>> footers and cut 'em in half deserves to be tired.
>>
>
> Are you just sitting these things on the ground? You'd need 10' cut in
> half to give you ANY support from IN the ground.
The old rule of thumb was 1/3 in the ground... for a 6' post use 9', for a
4' post use 6', etc.
Personally, how I approach the installation of posts depends on the
conditions. In "soil" I dig a bit deep and throw some crushed stone in the
bottom to tweak the height. In "rocky soil" or areas with ledge I dig as
deep as I can get and cut the posts to length after installation.
I've spent time recently preparing to install a privacy fence and I fully
expect to run into rocks when I dig the post holes. Today I had to move one
large rock out of way and bury it--way too big to move any appreciable
distance without heavy equipment. My son was "helping" me... at one point I
had a pick under an edge of the rock to lift it up as I needed to remove
some broken brick debris from underneath it so it would sit low enough. I
couldn't do it myself so I asked my son to pull the errant brick out... so
he comes over and stands on the rock I'm struggling to hold up while he's
pulling the brick out! "Sorry Dad!"
John
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> "Mike Patterson" wrote in message
>
>> On Thu, 9 Aug 2007 17:11:01 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:
>
>>>
>>>In the old days I could _precisely_ set the height of a fence post by
>>>the surgical application of a post hole digger and one half of a pair
>>>of Sears Roebuck brogans.
>>>
>>> ... dig a little deeper than necessary, then kick in an appropriate
>>> amount
>>>of dirt.
>
>> If you want a 6' fencepost, well sure. But if you want say a 4' post,
>> digging 4'+ down to backfill 3 " seems a little...tiring.
>
> Really now? Anyone who needs 4' posts and is too damn stupid to buy 8
> footers and cut 'em in half deserves to be tired.
>
Are you just sitting these things on the ground? You'd need 10' cut in
half to give you ANY support from IN the ground.
Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
"Mike Patterson" wrote in message
> On Thu, 9 Aug 2007 17:11:01 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:
>>
>>In the old days I could _precisely_ set the height of a fence post by the
>>surgical application of a post hole digger and one half of a pair of Sears
>>Roebuck brogans.
>>
>> ... dig a little deeper than necessary, then kick in an appropriate
>> amount
>>of dirt.
> If you want a 6' fencepost, well sure. But if you want say a 4' post,
> digging 4'+ down to backfill 3 " seems a little...tiring.
Really now? Anyone who needs 4' posts and is too damn stupid to buy 8
footers and cut 'em in half deserves to be tired.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 6/1/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> With a square mark 3 lines on 3 sides of the post at the desired location.
> with a circle saw cut through the first line full depth. Use the saw kerf
> to guide the blade for the cut on the next side. Doing the same on the
> third side, complete the cut.
>
Use a speed square to fence, tilt the saw base to bevel and cut round and
round. If a straight cut, still use the fence. If nothing else, it lets
you know where your off hand is.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote in message
>
>> If you are going to attach the wood posts to the metal posts you may
>> want
>> to wait to cut until they are exactly where they are going to end up.
> Then
>> you can use a level line or a measurement up from the ground or bottom
> rail
>> to determine the final height. Try not to commit yourself to a length
> until
>> every thing is in place.
>
> You guys are making me smile with this modern 'cutting off of fence posts
> at
> the right height' methodology.
>
> In the old days I could _precisely_ set the height of a fence post by the
> surgical application of a post hole digger and one half of a pair of Sears
> Roebuck brogans.
>
> ... dig a little deeper than necessary, then kick in an appropriate amount
> of dirt.
>
> Saw? ... what saw?
Huh!
"Leon" wrote in message
> If you are going to attach the wood posts to the metal posts you may want
> to wait to cut until they are exactly where they are going to end up.
Then
> you can use a level line or a measurement up from the ground or bottom
rail
> to determine the final height. Try not to commit yourself to a length
until
> every thing is in place.
You guys are making me smile with this modern 'cutting off of fence posts at
the right height' methodology.
In the old days I could _precisely_ set the height of a fence post by the
surgical application of a post hole digger and one half of a pair of Sears
Roebuck brogans.
... dig a little deeper than necessary, then kick in an appropriate amount
of dirt.
Saw? ... what saw?
:)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/8/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)
SnikkerJensen <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 9 Aug, 23:11, "Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "Spyro" <Spyro@[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> > Hello fellow woodworkers :)
>>
>> > Im making a fence with 4x4 posts. Is it possible to saw them using
>> > a handsaw with almost or perfect result?
>>
>> > What kind of handsaw do I need?
>>
>> > Yours Sincerely
>> > Tom
>>
>> Keep in mind that you don't want to cut them square, unless you have
>> some kind of cap going on the top ends. Cut them at about a 15
>> degree angle from all four sides, leaving a pyramid top that will
>> shed water. Makes the concept of a perfect cut a little less
>> important too.
>>
>> --
>> ********
>> Bill Poundshttp://www.billpounds.com
>
> Ah, thank you very much. An amateur as me would have not thought about
> that. In another group I have been told to use a japanese saw. Think I
> am going to try with that.
>
>
How many do you have to cut?
Patriarch
"SnikkerJensen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 9 Aug, 16:18, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "Spyro" <Spyro@[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> > Hello fellow woodworkers :)
>>
>> > Im making a fence with 4x4 posts. Is it possible to saw them using a
>> > handsaw with almost or perfect result?
>>
>> > What kind of handsaw do I need?
>>
>> > Yours Sincerely
>> > Tom
>>
>> Almost impossible if you cut the posts at the correct time. Don't cut
>> the
>> posts before putting them in the ground. Cut after you have them set and
>> I
>> would advise cutting with a circle saw.
>
> Thank for replying. Im not going to plant the posts in the ground. I
> have those metalpoles which Im going to fasten the posts in. I got a
> tip of using my Dewalt 707 and cut half of it and then turn the post
> and cut the rest. Think Im going to try that.
>
If you are going to attach the wood posts to the metal posts you may want
to wait to cut until they are exactly where they are going to end up. Then
you can use a level line or a measurement up from the ground or bottom rail
to determine the final height. Try not to commit yourself to a length until
every thing is in place.
With a square mark 3 lines on 3 sides of the post at the desired location.
with a circle saw cut through the first line full depth. Use the saw kerf
to guide the blade for the cut on the next side. Doing the same on the
third side, complete the cut.
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> With a square mark 3 lines on 3 sides of the post at the desired
>> location. with a circle saw cut through the first line full depth. Use
>> the saw kerf to guide the blade for the cut on the next side. Doing the
>> same on the third side, complete the cut.
>>
>
> Use a speed square to fence, tilt the saw base to bevel and cut round and
> round. If a straight cut, still use the fence. If nothing else, it lets
> you know where your off hand is.
I used to do this but since the all the of the fences that I build have top
rails across the tops of the posts the top must be flat. The problem I had
with using a speed square is that I cut full depth and the motor housing
hits the square. When cutting with the blade being horizontal, hand
location is not a problem, both hands are on the saw.
On Thu, 9 Aug 2007 17:11:01 -0500, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Leon" wrote in message
>
>> If you are going to attach the wood posts to the metal posts you may want
>> to wait to cut until they are exactly where they are going to end up.
>Then
>> you can use a level line or a measurement up from the ground or bottom
>rail
>> to determine the final height. Try not to commit yourself to a length
>until
>> every thing is in place.
>
>You guys are making me smile with this modern 'cutting off of fence posts at
>the right height' methodology.
>
>In the old days I could _precisely_ set the height of a fence post by the
>surgical application of a post hole digger and one half of a pair of Sears
>Roebuck brogans.
>
> ... dig a little deeper than necessary, then kick in an appropriate amount
>of dirt.
>
>Saw? ... what saw?
>
>:)
If you want a 6' fencepost, well sure. But if you want say a 4' post,
digging 4'+ down to backfill 3 " seems a little...tiring.
Mike Patterson
Please remove the spamtrap to email me.
"I always wanted to be somebody...I should have been more specific..." - Lily Tomlin