My three latest jewelry boxes:
http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
interesting.
-Kevin
<[email protected]> wrote
>
> Well everyone feels strongly about the slides :) I have had feedback
> from customers that they don't like short drawers that fall out when
> you try to get to the back of them. As I said elsewhere, the main
> problem is the top drawer where the top overhangs, especially if you
> have a drawer that is inset to the frame of the box rather than
> overlapping the front, the wood slides have to end the thickness of
> the front of the drawer plus the reveal from the front edge, the top
> overhangs the front of the box perhaps 1/2" to 3/4", and you need a
> good 1/2" to 3/4" of the drawer still on the slides to support it
> without falling out. Add all that up and you have an inch and half or
> more of the drawer still under the top.
>
OK, I am moving rapidly into an area I know nothing about. But I have seen
some kind of double dovetail slides out of wood. This would essentially be
a full extension slide. No idea how to make them (obviously a jig of some
kind) or how durable they would be. You obviously don't want to produce
something that would break easily.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:572fa769-5808-4415-96c5-d0cf97340f44@r22g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 17, 9:54 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> >http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> > First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
> > favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
> > over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
> > jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
> > functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
> > slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
> > because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
> > are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
> > interesting.
>
> > -Kevin
>
> Absolutely great Kevin but I was really turned off with the mechanical
> steel
> slides on the last one. May I suggest sliding dado's next time?
Holy shiat... good eye, Leon. And a good point. I didn't even notice
them the first time around, now they stand out like a sore slide.
Yup, they got to go.
*slaps forehead wondering why I didn't see them before....*
===================================
Now, now guys...., settle down. He may have had good reason to put those
slides on there. He may have some VERY heavy jewelry,,,. or gold bars..., or
spanish bullion. In which case, he would need those metal slides!
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
> favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
> over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
> jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
> functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
> slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
> because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
> are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
> interesting.
>
>
> -Kevin
Good lookin' stuff Keven. I love the designs. You obviously have to work a
little harder to make the drawers and make them fit when doing designs like
this. It was time well spent.
On Feb 16, 10:37=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> My three latest jewelry boxes:
Nice work.
Which one holds the family jewels?
On Feb 17, 3:09 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Something to consider and this has been discussed time and again. Many
> times the question has been asked, what material should I use for drawer
> sides. The common answer and a correct one is any material you want.
> Through the years I have pretty much proven time and again that the harder
> the wood that you use for the drawer sides and for the slide or frame that
> the drawer will slide on the longer the drawer will last and the better the
> drawer will slide. About 28 years ago I built our Oak frame dresser and
> built the drawer sides out of pine know knowing any better at the time. The
> drawers have always been draggy from the friction between the pine and oak.
> Varnish, wax, dry lube never really helped the matter. Additionally if you
> pull a drawer out you will see pine dust where the drawer bottoms are slowly
> wearing down.
> About 4 years later I built night stand chests and built the drawers
> and frame entirely out of oak. To this day there is no visible wear and the
> drawers still slide in and out as easily as if they were on ball bearing
> slides. Now I always try to build the drawers and their contact points out
> of as hard of a material as I can so that there is a long life expectancy
> and easy smooth movement.
I like to make my drawer boxes out of poplar, for a few reasons. Easy
to machine. I can get it in s2s 8/4 with little price premium and
just rip it to 1/4" thickness for the front/back and 5/8" for the
sides and it's instant drawer parts. Much less waste than dealing
with 4/4. I end up with quartersawn boards, which we can pretend is
relevantly more stable on an 1-3/4" wide board. And by having it as a
secondary wood I can have a bunch of it prepared ahead of time all at
once rather than match to the outside wood. Of course poplar isn't
very hard though.
-Kevin
"PDQ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Don't think time is a function. At $60 a pop the bill would be about
$3,000.
Should be all he needs is a receipt for tax purposes from the Legion.
P D Q
You are probably right if they issue a receipt. I doubt however if it could
actually be a tax credit rather than a deduction if itemizing here in the
US. But he is in Canada and who knows how that works up there.
On Feb 17, 9:16 am, [email protected] wrote:
> I'm disgusted! Those projects must have been done with Magic! I now
> don't feel qualified to wipe down the toolbox of such a Master
> Woodworker.
Ha ha! Actually from a woodworking perspective everything is very
simple. There are a lot of half lap joints and pocket screws in what
I do. If I can do it, you can do it.
-Kevin
On Feb 19, 11:47 am, [email protected] wrote:
> Lee Michaels <leemichaels*[email protected]> wrote:
> > <[email protected]> wrote
>
> > > Well everyone feels strongly about the slides :) I have had feedback
> > > from customers that they don't like short drawers that fall out when
> > > you try to get to the back of them. As I said elsewhere, the main
>
> > OK, I am moving rapidly into an area I know nothing about. But I have seen
> > some kind of double dovetail slides out of wood. This would essentially be
> > a full extension slide. No idea how to make them (obviously a jig of some
> > kind) or how durable they would be. You obviously don't want to produce
> > something that would break easily.
>
> I think I saw some full extension slides made from wood in a Fine Woodworking
> a few (maybe 10, maybe less) years back. But, those were on a full size
> chest-of-drawers and were kind of big as I remember. Might be hard to do
> on a jewelry box, except for that guy who does the minatures of course . . .
I've googled previously on the subject, but haven't experimented with
it. My concern is there's got to be some free sliding middle part to
accomplish it, and at this scale that could easily warp. I don't have
a lot of confidence it's going to keep working well over time, but
that's just my gut feeling.
-Kevin
On Feb 18, 12:06 pm, Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > On Feb 17, 9:16 am, [email protected] wrote:
> >> I'm disgusted! Those projects must have been done with Magic! I now
> >> don't feel qualified to wipe down the toolbox of such a Master
> >> Woodworker.
>
> > Ha ha! Actually from a woodworking perspective everything is very
> > simple. There are a lot of half lap joints and pocket screws in what
> > I do. If I can do it, you can do it.
>
> I don't think so Kevin. The designs are very appealing and creative. I
> could probably do the work, but not the design. For example, the little
> wave on the last box top is special, I doubt I would ever have come up
> with doing that, very artistic. Don't under sell yourself, any one can
> build stuff, you have to be special to design stuff that pleasing to the
> eye.
Well I was referring more to the techniques involved. I still have
miters give me fits from time to time and I am generally going to ruin
something if hand tools are involved. Master woodworker I am not.
From the design/creativity side, that's really something hard to
define. I see it as I have an understanding of what the wood can and
cannot do, what my tools and skills can and cannot do, and a library
of techniques to deal with about any situation that is going to come
up. I have learned to not let my fear of things not turning out right
stop me and to just go with it. I don't see it as me doing
something special, more that most everyone else is holding themselves
back. It's probably a little of both.
The example you gave, well I bought that board which was intended to
be used for a guitar by the guy who cut it. It was longer with a
natural edge along part of it, rough cut straight for maybe 3/4s of
the edge. He did it that way because he had a template for half a
guitar and was minimizing waste. I looked at it and my first thoughts
were probably what anyone else would think, trying to decide which
rectangle I wanted to take from it. The full width and stop at the
natural edge, or a longer length and rip it narrower. But it was
already not as wide as I would like, and not as long as I'd like if I
cut it at the natural edge. So I was just open at that point to
considering a different option, go longer and leave a bit of the
natural edge. Is this going to look stupid? Let's find out! I ended
up deciding to leave the rough cut on the edge so it would blend in
better with the natural edge, and as a bonus - less work for me. From
there having that bit of asymmetry allowed me to consider doing the
pulls in that asymmetrical layout around the swirl of the grain. If
it wasn't for that first choice I wouldn't have made the second
one.
-Kevin
On Feb 16, 11:17 pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> >http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> Beautiful.
>
> Love the drawer handles on the last one.
Thanks! I've been in a rut with the handles for a while and the same
simple straight handle with angled sides was what fit the design but I
wanted to change it up some how. They are staggered like that because
the best grain in the drawer fronts made a swirl right through the
center and I didn't want to cover it. I went back and forth
positioning like that for quite a while before committing to it.
-Kevin
On Feb 17, 12:39 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:e896f997-aa10-4ad2-944c-54256166e48b@q30g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
> Snip
>
>
>
> > The first time I used them exposed like that was the box that sold the
> > fastest, so people don't seem to mind. You don't see it when it's
> > closed, and they are so functional. I don't do it on every box, but
> > it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably more often
> > than not.
>
> > -Kevin
>
> I will admit, my wife got one of the jewelry chests that I built and I sold
> the other before it was finished for $1,200.00. I really don't think that
> I could have gotten that amount with mechanical slides.
It's something I just never see anyone else do, but I do think there
is a market there if you explain the benefits of them. Won't be any
woodworkers buying them, but they wouldn't be buying them anyway.
And speaking of prices, that's an area I am always uncomfortable
with. Usually I am selling online, but the last two are going to a
gallery so I feel a little more freedom to ask a fair price, and need
one since I am giving up 40% instead of around 15%. Anyone want to
take a stab at pricing any of the three? I realize I haven't given
dimensions, the second two are around 20" wide, the first one is
around 16" tall and wide at the extremes.
-Kevin
On Feb 16, 10:37 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
> favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
> over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
> jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
> functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
> slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
> because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
> are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
> interesting.
>
> -Kevin
v nice - one day I'll be that good! (maybe)
On Feb 17, 5:53=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
[snipped a whole lot of common sense]
>
> I like the work, but don't like the attitude that comes with it.
> That's one area that maybe holds me back. =A0I'm not going to talk about
> myself as if what I am doing is museum quality this and finest that,
> and maybe the people with the $$ need to hear that kind of stuff, but
> they won't hear it from me. =A0I just want to smack that guy. =A0
>
Tell you what. I'll hold him, you smack him. Then we switch.
What a snooty douche-nozzle.
But wait! I'm just too brilliantly fantastic and talented to do that.
And too good-looking too! I could muss up my Birkies!! I'm so upset, I
think I'll throw tofu at him instead!!
[email protected] wrote:
> My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
> favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
> over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
> jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
> functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
> slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
> because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
> are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
> interesting.
Those are nice, very creative. Someone also did a first rate job on
lighting them for the photos too. You?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Feb 17, 3:56 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Exactly. High end jewelry boxes are rather unique, and the one I sold was
> about 1/2 the price of the High End ones that I have seen. It is hard to
> sell in bigger quantities because most of the public is not interested in
> the quality of the work. They feel that they have spent a fortune on their
> jewelry, they typically don't want to spend a small fortune on a box to keep
> it in.
That's the part that drives me crazy. You'll spend $100 on one piece
of jewelry, or even way more than that, but you want the box that
holds all of them to cost less than that!
> All 3 are probably not going to be large enough to command high dollar for
> storage. You may very well get a pretty good asking price for the
> art/design aspect on them however.
I agree with that. For a while I had the mindset of not wanting to
waste any space inside the box whatsoever, it had to be practical.
I've let go of that for a while and am just having fun, but I have
gone a little too far with some of them. But I figure that not
everyone who has money to spend necessarily has tons of jewelry and
they may appreciate a smaller box that's unique, and as you provided
links to show people already have names established for high end work
with big storage. I do have a couple of lines of more storage
oriented boxes, nothing really big though. And no metal slides :)
http://www.krtwood.com/curves.html
http://www.krtwood.com/mission.html
I've been planning to do a larger version of the Curves box, I have
the doors partially made but have been putting off working on it. I
should do some larger pieces, I am just reluctant to invest a lot of
time and materials into the larger stuff. The one I am working on
now, I have done the top without knowing what's going under it, and
it's good size so perhaps I'll make this one a bit larger than normal.
> Providing the pictures are not hiding
> any problems and with the right group of customers I could see at least
> $600, possibly much more. It will all depend on who is looking. Again, the
> metal slides could bring the price down from my guess.
I have the first one priced at $400 on Etsy. My own website gets
hardly any traffic (except the page I put up about my shop built drum
sander), I've had a box sit in a consignment shop for a year and then
get returned to me. We'll see how the new gallery turns out.
Sometimes I am just tempted to just double the price of everything and
see what happens.
> http://www.alladd.com/index.htm
I like the work, but don't like the attitude that comes with it.
That's one area that maybe holds me back. I'm not going to talk about
myself as if what I am doing is museum quality this and finest that,
and maybe the people with the $$ need to hear that kind of stuff, but
they won't hear it from me. I just want to smack that guy. But he's
probably only saying it because that's what he thinks people want to
hear, and maybe he's right.
I guess I would rather sell things that maybe they are under priced
but it's still a lot of money to the person buying it and something
they will really appreciate and love, than something somebody bought
because it was expensive which is the feeling I get from a lot of
these sites. But I get more messages from people saying how they love
one of the boxes and would buy it if they had the money than I do
sales. In a way I appreciate those messages more than the sales, but
at the same time it doesn't pay the bills.
-Kevin
Robatoy wrote:
> Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy things
> with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple leaves and
> want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly waste/scrap with
> 15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is, each. Then I get a
> call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50 soldiers' graves with
> them... then I can't, with a clear conscience, ask them for that much.
> BUT.. if I tell them, say $ 15.00 each, and the rest of the country
> orders 5000 of them, all other projects stop and I have to make
> money.... quite a dilemma. Now it's no longer scrap either. What to
> do, what to do.
Triple the price to buyers - and present 'em as donations to the Legion.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
[email protected] wrote:
> It might look better if you could get brass, or at least brass
> plated, slides. I always think brass looks better with wood.
Wow - I've never seen brass slides (but I haven't looked either) but
that's the best suggestion I've seen!
Brass would work, but even just a couple of microinches of gold (like
1/1000 of an ounce, worth about US$1.00) would dress up a steel slide
enough to make it worthy of the box.
(tuppence)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
On Feb 20, 11:43 am, [email protected] (Drew Lawson) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>
> [email protected] writes:
>
> >On Feb 18, 11:57 am, Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Honestly, those slides really looked out of place on such nice, creative
> >> work. The first two appear to have some creative and unusual slides, so
> >> I can't help wondering why the metalware on the last one?
>
> >Well everyone feels strongly about the slides :) I have had feedback
>
> I'll take the risk of disagreeing with everyone. It may be my
> beginner perspective, so I don't have any baggage attached to the
> drawer slide issue. Whatever the reason, my first reaction to the
> drawer slides was that the combination of beautiful wood and shiney
> industrial parts was kind of cool.
>
> Maybe I'd react differently to the box, but that was my reaction
> to the pictures. Doesn't matter much. I can't afford your stuff,
> so I'm not the customer you need to please.
Thanks for that! I think it would look pretty out of place on say a
more rustic looking piece with a big natural edge top or something,
but I don't think it looks bad in and of itself.
A lot of it is about perception. I don't _need_ to dovetail the
drawers, but that is perceived to be a standard of quality. It's
actually pretty darn easy to dado in wood slides and they make
everything line up perfectly without any fiddling. I had to muck
around adjusting the steel slides to get everything aligned to the
degree needed here for quite a while, and I had to modify the plastic
bumpers at the back that hold the drawer in the closed position
because they required too much force as is. So it's actually a lot
more work to do it, but the perception may be the reverse, so I need
to make sure if I do use them that I try to explain that.
-Kevin
On Feb 17, 9:54=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> >http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> > First one was a real challenge. =A0Second one is pretty simple but my
> > favorite of the three. =A0It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
> > over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
> > jig required. =A0 And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
> > functional of the group. =A0I really like using the full extension
> > slides for access to the whole drawer. =A0This was a bit interesting
> > because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
> > are at that angle as well. =A0Made fitting the drawers a little
> > interesting.
>
> > -Kevin
>
> Absolutely great Kevin but I was really turned off with the mechanical st=
eel
> slides on the last one. =A0May I suggest sliding dado's next time?
Holy shiat... good eye, Leon. And a good point. I didn't even notice
them the first time around, now they stand out like a sore slide.
Yup, they got to go.
*slaps forehead wondering why I didn't see them before....*
r
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Wow - I've never seen brass slides (but I haven't looked either) but
> that's the best suggestion I've seen!
Probably not too much market for brass slides (even if they do exist)
because of the lack of strength factor. But, for the OP's creations,
something as simple as brass type angle iron and a simple slot cut in the
wood to let it slide might look half decent.
On Feb 17, 1:00 pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> >>>http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
> >> Beautiful.
>
> >> Love the drawer handles on the last one.
>
> > Thanks! I've been in a rut with the handles for a while and the same
> > simple straight handle with angled sides was what fit the design but I
> > wanted to change it up some how. They are staggered like that because
> > the best grain in the drawer fronts made a swirl right through the
> > center and I didn't want to cover it. I went back and forth
> > positioning like that for quite a while before committing to it.
>
> > -Kevin
>
> Some of the most elegant "design" feature are completely by accident.
>
> That's why I like the adventure turning. Sometimes, there are things
> hidden inside the wood that you don't discover until you turn it down,
> which end up dictating the style or design of a piece. I love to let the
> wood tell me what to do with it.
For a good while I was doing more mission type of stuff and I was
telling the wood what to do, but I have been having a lot of full with
some odd shaped pieces of wood that I get with no idea of what I am
going to do with them. They sit around for a while and I pull them
out and look at them, shrug and put them back. Then eventually either
I have an idea that they fit or the idea comes while I am looking at
them. I really like to start a project knowing mostly what I am going
to be doing, but leaving some things open to be figured out as I go
along.
Sometimes that gets me into trouble, like on that first box which had
to be taken almost completely down to nothing and started over. And
then when I had it all redone I was gluing something and took one step
away to reach a clamp and it took that opportunity to make a suicide
leap off the bench to the concrete. Which it actually survived
without *too* much damage, but I did more cursing during that project
than working. If it had been summer I would have taken that sucker
out to the driveway and used the sledgehammer on it, but it's just too
darn cold out so I had to keep working on it instead.
> In yours, the pulls, along with the "ripple" on the front-right edge of
> the top, perfectly contrast and compliment the piece's hard angles,
> straight lines, and symmetry.
>
> I also like to leave wood with beautiful color, its natural color.
> Which leads me to ask if those Sycamore legs have any stain on them.
The legs are bubinga, the top and the rails are sycamore. The legs
are from a quartersawn piece of 8/4 bubinga, which it turns out has a
really boring grain pattern on the quartersawn grain, but it makes
good legs at least.
-Kevin
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Absolutely great Kevin but I was really turned off with the mechanical
steel
> slides on the last one. May I suggest sliding dado's next time?
Or, maybe undermount slides that aren't visible.
On Feb 17, 2:35=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Feb 17, 12:39 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >news:e896f997-aa10-4ad2-944c-54256166e48b@q30g2000vbn.googlegroups.com..=
.
> > Snip
>
> > > The first time I used them exposed like that was the box that sold th=
e
> > > fastest, so people don't seem to mind. =A0You don't see it when it's
> > > closed, and they are so functional. =A0I don't do it on every box, bu=
t
> > > it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably more often
> > > than not.
>
> > > -Kevin
>
> > I will admit, my wife got one of the jewelry chests that I built and I =
sold
> > the other before it was finished for $1,200.00. =A0 I really don't thin=
k that
> > I could have gotten that amount with mechanical slides.
>
> It's something I just never see anyone else do, but I do think there
> is a market there if you explain the benefits of them. =A0Won't be any
> woodworkers buying them, but they wouldn't be buying them anyway.
Which woodworker could possibly afford one of those? :-}
>
> And speaking of prices, that's an area I am always uncomfortable
> with. =A0
Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy things
with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple leaves and
want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly waste/scrap with
15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is, each. Then I get a
call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50 soldiers' graves with
them... then I can't, with a clear conscience, ask them for that much.
BUT.. if I tell them, say $ 15.00 each, and the rest of the country
orders 5000 of them, all other projects stop and I have to make
money.... quite a dilemma. Now it's no longer scrap either. What to
do, what to do.
> Usually I am selling online, but the last two are going to a
> gallery so I feel a little more freedom to ask a fair price, and need
> one since I am giving up 40% instead of around 15%. =A0Anyone want to
> take a stab at pricing any of the three? =A0I realize I haven't given
> dimensions, the second two are around 20" wide, the first one is
> around 16" tall and wide at the extremes.
>
> -Kevin
"Upscale" <[email protected]> writes:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> My three latest jewelry boxes:
>> http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> Very nice. My first thought was that you should get together with an
> architect and build a few houses similar in shape to those jewelry boxes.
:-) Just don't end up on a list like
http://www.darkroastedblend.com/2009/01/architectural-horrors-drb-series.html
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
> favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
> over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
> jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
> functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
> slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
> because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
> are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
> interesting.
>
>
> -Kevin
Absolutely great Kevin but I was really turned off with the mechanical steel
slides on the last one. May I suggest sliding dado's next time?
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Now, now guys...., settle down. He may have had good reason to put those
> slides on there. He may have some VERY heavy jewelry,,,. or gold bars...,
> or spanish bullion. In which case, he would need those metal slides!
Good point! But there should have been a lock too, huh? ;~)
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:37e4247d-8305-4734-a190-1597ba0cff81@p13g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
>
> I like the work, but don't like the attitude that comes with it.
> That's one area that maybe holds me back. I'm not going to talk about
> myself as if what I am doing is museum quality this and finest that,
> and maybe the people with the $$ need to hear that kind of stuff, but
> they won't hear it from me. I just want to smack that guy. But he's
> probably only saying it because that's what he thinks people want to
> hear, and maybe he's right.
>
> I guess I would rather sell things that maybe they are under priced
> but it's still a lot of money to the person buying it and something
> they will really appreciate and love, than something somebody bought
> because it was expensive which is the feeling I get from a lot of
> these sites. But I get more messages from people saying how they love
> one of the boxes and would buy it if they had the money than I do
> sales. In a way I appreciate those messages more than the sales, but
> at the same time it doesn't pay the bills.
>
> -Kevin
Wellllllll you have to sell yourself, I have done plenty of that in the
past. Fortunately I have reoccurring customers and referrals from them. I
wonder what would happen with your pieces if you put them on another
unrelated site and doubled the price. I have learned that you can scare
business off if you are too cheap or don't display enough confidence in your
pricing. Very often I get jobs that I an not interested in doing until I
actually up the price to what I am comfortable with. I think a customer can
read your discomfort in your pricing. I "try" not to let pricing limit what
I want to do in a project.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:e896f997-aa10-4ad2-944c-54256166e48b@q30g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
Snip
>
> The first time I used them exposed like that was the box that sold the
> fastest, so people don't seem to mind. You don't see it when it's
> closed, and they are so functional. I don't do it on every box, but
> it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably more often
> than not.
>
> -Kevin
I will admit, my wife got one of the jewelry chests that I built and I sold
the other before it was finished for $1,200.00. I really don't think that
I could have gotten that amount with mechanical slides.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> closed, and they are so functional. I don't do it on every box, but
>> it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably more often
>> than not.
>
> Do you even need slides at all? Why not drawers that just slide on a flat
> frame with a stop to prevent them from coming all the way out? My chest of
> drawers works that way, minus the stop.
>
>
If I may answer that, ;~) typically a jewelry chest is small, that frame
that typical full sized furniture uses to support the drawers takes up
precious room. Even if the support was only 1/4" thick the loss of storage
area adds up in a hurry. In my particular case I would have lost about
1-3/4" of drawer space and or would have had to sacrifice a couple of
drawers.
On Feb 20, 2:40 pm, Morris Dovey <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > It might look better if you could get brass, or at least brass
> > plated, slides. I always think brass looks better with wood.
>
> Wow - I've never seen brass slides (but I haven't looked either) but
> that's the best suggestion I've seen!
>
> Brass would work, but even just a couple of microinches of gold (like
> 1/1000 of an ounce, worth about US$1.00) would dress up a steel slide
> enough to make it worthy of the box.
Believe it or not I was just googling brass full extension slides this
afternoon, but I didn't come up with anything. Anything is possible
for the right amount of $$$ but for the tiny volume I do if it works
out to $100/pr it aint worth it.
For the amount of weight involved it ought to be possible to make an
undermount slide that isn't huge either.
-Kevin
On Feb 16, 10:37=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> First one was a real challenge. =A0Second one is pretty simple but my
> favorite of the three. =A0It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
> over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
> jig required. =A0 And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
> functional of the group. =A0I really like using the full extension
> slides for access to the whole drawer. =A0This was a bit interesting
> because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
> are at that angle as well. =A0Made fitting the drawers a little
> interesting.
>
> -Kevin
Bold, refreshing, innovative, brilliant! And that is just my reaction
to the designs. The execution looks great as well. Kudos, bro'.
On Feb 18, 11:57 am, Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
> Leon wrote:
> > <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> >>http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> >> First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
> >> favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
> >> over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
> >> jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
> >> functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
> >> slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
> >> because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
> >> are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
> >> interesting.
>
> >> -Kevin
>
> > Absolutely great Kevin but I was really turned off with the mechanical steel
> > slides on the last one. May I suggest sliding dado's next time?
>
> Thats the only thing I liked... Those slides looked like something I'd
> do, the rest of it made me feel like, inferior....
>
> Honestly, those slides really looked out of place on such nice, creative
> work. The first two appear to have some creative and unusual slides, so
> I can't help wondering why the metalware on the last one?
Well everyone feels strongly about the slides :) I have had feedback
from customers that they don't like short drawers that fall out when
you try to get to the back of them. As I said elsewhere, the main
problem is the top drawer where the top overhangs, especially if you
have a drawer that is inset to the frame of the box rather than
overlapping the front, the wood slides have to end the thickness of
the front of the drawer plus the reveal from the front edge, the top
overhangs the front of the box perhaps 1/2" to 3/4", and you need a
good 1/2" to 3/4" of the drawer still on the slides to support it
without falling out. Add all that up and you have an inch and half or
more of the drawer still under the top.
The other alternative is to make the top drawer not actually a drawer
but fixed and have the top hinged. That's doable on a rectangular
box, but when you start throwing in angles and curves as I like to do
it starts getting tricky. Plus when you have a solid wood top that is
just a single board I want that attached to some structure to help
limit any warping it wants to do.
-Kevin
On Feb 16, 11:17 pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Feb 16, 10:37 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> >http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> > First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
> > favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
> > over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
> > jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
> > functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
> > slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
> > because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
> > are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
> > interesting.
>
> > -Kevin
>
> Bold, refreshing, innovative, brilliant! And that is just my reaction
> to the designs. The execution looks great as well. Kudos, bro'.
Wow! Thanks!
-Kevin
On Feb 20, 4:25 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > On Feb 20, 2:40 pm, Morris Dovey <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > [email protected] wrote:
> > > > It might look better if you could get brass, or at least brass
> > > > plated, slides. I always think brass looks better with wood.
>
> > > Wow - I've never seen brass slides (but I haven't looked either) but
> > > that's the best suggestion I've seen!
> > Believe it or not I was just googling brass full extension slides this
> > afternoon, but I didn't come up with anything. Anything is possible
> > for the right amount of $$$ but for the tiny volume I do if it works
> > out to $100/pr it aint worth it.
>
> Yeah, I don't know if anyone makes brass full extension slides, I was
> just saying that I prefer brass hardware with wood if it's available.
> You have to work with what you can get. Like you say, money-no-object
> is not a real game plan for staying in business.
>
> > For the amount of weight involved it ought to be possible to make an
> > undermount slide that isn't huge either.
>
> For what it's worth, I don't think the steel slides looked all
> that bad. Brass would look better, and black would too, but
> you'd probably have a harder time finding slides in black than
> in brass.
I can get black and white epoxy coated, but not in the smaller 75 lb
rated slides. The one time I tried epoxy coated slides the epoxy
started to wear off in the bearing track before I even got the project
fully assembled, and the epoxy that wore off got gummed up into the
bearings which made them seize, which made the slides not function
smoothly and only made the wear problem worse. I don't know if it was
a bad batch or what, I sent them back and replaced with the regular
zinc.
-Kevin
On Feb 17, 10:16 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:572fa769-5808-4415-96c5-d0cf97340f44@r22g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
> On Feb 17, 9:54 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Holy shiat... good eye, Leon. And a good point. I didn't even notice
> them the first time around, now they stand out like a sore slide.
> Yup, they got to go.
>
> *slaps forehead wondering why I didn't see them before....*
Thank you for making my point :)
> But in all fairness, the boxes are top rate. I guess I quickly noticed
> because I built 2 jewelry chests about a year ago and all 26 drawers had the
> sliding dado's for slides.
>
> Now Kevin did mention that he liked the drawers coming "all" the way out
> however he is obviously capable of building to tolerances close enough that
> the sliding dado would allow the drawers to be pulled out enough that the
> drawer backs would be fully visible. Basically my drawers will open far
> enough that only the 1/2" thick drawer back is still inside the cabinet.
I typically make the back 1/4", which with the ply bottom glued in is
plenty strong. I often like to have the top drawer close to the top
of the box (sometimes I avoid any cross grain situation with the top
and I need no further structure at the top of the box), which can
often overhang the box a fair bit. It's not so much the access to the
other drawers that is a problem, but the top drawer usually the back
inch or more is impossible to get to without pulling out the drawer,
and if you only have 6-7 inches of drawer to start with that is a
lot. I also have concerns that if the drawers are getting pulled
out so that they are almost out and then left hanging there, that's
putting a lot of wear on the back end of the drawer slide groove and
the front of the drawer slide. Plus there's a bit of slop necessary
to account for expansion/ contraction and any possible light warping.
I could fit them tight if I wanted to, but I am shipping these all
over the country so I feel I have to leave a bit more slop than I
would like to make sure they remain operational. With the metal
slides I don't have to worry about it, or have the customer do any
maintenance to wax a wood slide.
-Kevin
On Feb 17, 6:41 am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> >http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> > First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
> > favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
> > over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
> > jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
> > functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
> > slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
> > because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
> > are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
> > interesting.
>
> Those are nice, very creative. Someone also did a first rate job on
> lighting them for the photos too. You?
Thanks! Yep, I do the photos. When you sell online the photography
is what sells, so it helps to have that as your hobby. I have a good
size light tent, but the second two are too wide for it. My lighting
setup is actually pretty simple though. I have a 4 ft fluorescent
fixture hanging from an upside-down U shaped frame. On the legs of
the U I have 4 clamp lights with CFL bulbs. Everything has the same
color balance. I can turn on/off clamp lights to get more light
coming from one side however I want. The light tent helps diffuse the
light, but with the fluorescents it's already pretty diffuse. But I'm
in trouble if I have to photograph anything bigger than those.
-Kevin
On Feb 17, 5:47=A0am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > My three latest jewelry boxes:
> >http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> Very nice. My first thought was that you should get together with an
> architect and build a few houses similar in shape to those jewelry boxes.
I'm disgusted! Those projects must have been done with Magic! I now
don't feel qualified to wipe down the toolbox of such a Master
Woodworker.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> My three latest jewelry boxes:
> http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
Very nice. My first thought was that you should get together with an
architect and build a few houses similar in shape to those jewelry boxes.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:b95c5b1c-21b8-495f-b5dc-717120da59b0@n10g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
Snip
>
> I typically make the back 1/4", which with the ply bottom glued in is
> plenty strong. I often like to have the top drawer close to the top
> of the box (sometimes I avoid any cross grain situation with the top
> and I need no further structure at the top of the box), which can
> often overhang the box a fair bit. It's not so much the access to the
> other drawers that is a problem, but the top drawer usually the back
> inch or more is impossible to get to without pulling out the drawer,
> and if you only have 6-7 inches of drawer to start with that is a
> lot. I also have concerns that if the drawers are getting pulled
> out so that they are almost out and then left hanging there, that's
> putting a lot of wear on the back end of the drawer slide groove and
> the front of the drawer slide. Plus there's a bit of slop necessary
> to account for expansion/ contraction and any possible light warping.
> I could fit them tight if I wanted to, but I am shipping these all
> over the country so I feel I have to leave a bit more slop than I
> would like to make sure they remain operational. With the metal
> slides I don't have to worry about it, or have the customer do any
> maintenance to wax a wood slide.
>
> -Kevin
>
Something to consider and this has been discussed time and again. Many
times the question has been asked, what material should I use for drawer
sides. The common answer and a correct one is any material you want.
Through the years I have pretty much proven time and again that the harder
the wood that you use for the drawer sides and for the slide or frame that
the drawer will slide on the longer the drawer will last and the better the
drawer will slide. About 28 years ago I built our Oak frame dresser and
built the drawer sides out of pine know knowing any better at the time. The
drawers have always been draggy from the friction between the pine and oak.
Varnish, wax, dry lube never really helped the matter. Additionally if you
pull a drawer out you will see pine dust where the drawer bottoms are slowly
wearing down.
About 4 years later I built night stand chests and built the drawers
and frame entirely out of oak. To this day there is no visible wear and the
drawers still slide in and out as easily as if they were on ball bearing
slides. Now I always try to build the drawers and their contact points out
of as hard of a material as I can so that there is a long life expectancy
and easy smooth movement.
On Feb 17, 3:14 pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> Which woodworker could possibly afford one of those? :-}
I underprice substantially. They can as long as I continue to be
young, stupid and desperate. I'm stretching the young part these
days, but the other two still apply ;) Most I've ever sold a box for
was $650, and that was two weeks of work.
> > And speaking of prices, that's an area I am always uncomfortable
> > with.
>
> Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy things
> with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple leaves and
> want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly waste/scrap with
> 15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is, each.
Gah! Where are these people and why do they never come to visit me?
I get to deal with the people who want a custom made somethingorother
for $15. I can't even figure out what you want for less than $15 of
labor and I haven't done anything yet.
> Then I get a
> call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50 soldiers' graves with
> them... then I can't, with a clear conscience, ask them for that much.
> BUT.. if I tell them, say $ 15.00 each, and the rest of the country
> orders 5000 of them, all other projects stop and I have to make
> money.... quite a dilemma. Now it's no longer scrap either. What to
> do, what to do.
Send them to me ;)
-Kevin
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> closed, and they are so functional. I don't do it on every box, but
> it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably more often
> than not.
Do you even need slides at all? Why not drawers that just slide on a flat
frame with a stop to prevent them from coming all the way out? My chest of
drawers works that way, minus the stop.
On Feb 17, 9:54 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> >http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> > First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
> > favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
> > over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
> > jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
> > functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
> > slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
> > because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
> > are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
> > interesting.
>
> > -Kevin
>
> Absolutely great Kevin but I was really turned off with the mechanical steel
> slides on the last one. May I suggest sliding dado's next time?
When I saw there were 15 posts I knew there had to be some
controversy, heh. Yeah, I don't like to see the steel either. But
they are extremely functional. There really isn't room to undermount
them usually, and nobody makes undermount slides short enough so I
have to use the regular slides on their sides and the ones you can get
short aren't rated for that either. I've tried the ones coated with
white epoxy, and I don't know if I got a bad batch or what but the
epoxy wore right off the ball bearing track and gummed them up so they
didn't operate well even before I finished the piece, so I am
reluctant to try that again. Lee Valley has 75 lb slides that are a
lot lighter though not much smaller and they come down to 8".
The first time I used them exposed like that was the box that sold the
fastest, so people don't seem to mind. You don't see it when it's
closed, and they are so functional. I don't do it on every box, but
it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably more often
than not.
-Kevin
"PDQ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Morris Dovey wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
>
>> Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy things
>> with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple leaves and
>> want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly waste/scrap with
>> 15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is, each. Then I get a
>> call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50 soldiers' graves with
>> them... then I can't, with a clear conscience, ask them for that
>> much. BUT.. if I tell them, say $ 15.00 each, and the rest of the
>> country orders 5000 of them, all other projects stop and I have to
>> make money.... quite a dilemma. Now it's no longer scrap either.
>> What to do, what to do.
>
> Triple the price to buyers - and present 'em as donations to the
> Legion.
And use the legion donation as a really nice tax credit.
I dont think you can write off your time. I believe you can only write off
materials when considering a donation. You give your time.
You have already established a price per unit ;)
P D Q
On Feb 17, 7:47 am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > My three latest jewelry boxes:
> >http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> Very nice. My first thought was that you should get together with an
> architect and build a few houses similar in shape to those jewelry boxes.
One of the things I like about doing jewelry boxes is I can get away
with some things that would be too much on the scale of full size
furniture, and you want to go another order of magnitude bigger!
-Kevin
[email protected] wrote:
> My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
Beautiful.
Love the drawer handles on the last one.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
[email protected] wrote:
>>> http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>> Beautiful.
>>
>> Love the drawer handles on the last one.
>
> Thanks! I've been in a rut with the handles for a while and the same
> simple straight handle with angled sides was what fit the design but I
> wanted to change it up some how. They are staggered like that because
> the best grain in the drawer fronts made a swirl right through the
> center and I didn't want to cover it. I went back and forth
> positioning like that for quite a while before committing to it.
>
> -Kevin
Some of the most elegant "design" feature are completely by accident.
That's why I like the adventure turning. Sometimes, there are things
hidden inside the wood that you don't discover until you turn it down,
which end up dictating the style or design of a piece. I love to let the
wood tell me what to do with it.
In yours, the pulls, along with the "ripple" on the front-right edge of
the top, perfectly contrast and compliment the piece's hard angles,
straight lines, and symmetry.
I also like to leave wood with beautiful color, its natural color.
Which leads me to ask if those Sycamore legs have any stain on them.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>> I also like to leave wood with beautiful color, its natural color.
>> Which leads me to ask if those Sycamore legs have any stain on them.
>
> The legs are bubinga, the top and the rails are sycamore. The legs
> are from a quartersawn piece of 8/4 bubinga, which it turns out has a
> really boring grain pattern on the quartersawn grain, but it makes
> good legs at least.
>
> -Kevin
Now I feel like a dumbass. :-)
Now that I'm thinking about it, the legs do have that Bubinga color.
I haven't been around Sycamore enough to know...
in fact it looks like Cocobolo sapwood to me.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Morris Dovey wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
>=20
>> Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy things
>> with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple leaves and
>> want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly waste/scrap with
>> 15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is, each. Then I get a
>> call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50 soldiers' graves with
>> them... then I can't, with a clear conscience, ask them for that
>> much. BUT.. if I tell them, say $ 15.00 each, and the rest of the
>> country orders 5000 of them, all other projects stop and I have to
>> make money.... quite a dilemma. Now it's no longer scrap either.
>> What to do, what to do.
>=20
> Triple the price to buyers - and present 'em as donations to the
> Legion.=20
And use the legion donation as a really nice tax credit. =20
You have already established a price per unit ;)
P D Q
Robatoy wrote:
...
> Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy things
> with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple leaves and
> want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly waste/scrap with
> 15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is, each. Then I get a
> call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50 soldiers' graves with
> them... then I can't, with a clear conscience, ask them for that much.
> BUT.. if I tell them, say $ 15.00 each, and the rest of the country
> orders 5000 of them, all other projects stop and I have to make
> money.... quite a dilemma. Now it's no longer scrap either. What to
> do, what to do.
...
If your doing this as part of the business and keeping books rather than
just cash transactions you can claim the difference between fair market
and your charge to them as business expense for a relatively small
number such as that. If it were to turn to really large numbers, then
you obviously have the necessity to make it have to be worth the time
although one would assume there would be the "economy of scale" pricing
there as well.
What you do for one doesn't have to necessarily match what you do for
the other.
--
Leon wrote:
> "PDQ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>=20
>=20
> Morris Dovey wrote:
>> Robatoy wrote:
>>=20
>>> Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy
>>> things with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple
>>> leaves and want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly
>>> waste/scrap with 15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is,
>>> each. Then I get a call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50
>>> soldiers' graves with them... then I can't, with a clear
>>> conscience, ask them for that much. BUT.. if I tell them, say $
>>> 15.00 each, and the rest of the country orders 5000 of them, all
>>> other projects stop and I have to make money.... quite a dilemma.
>>> Now it's no longer scrap either. What to do, what to do.
>>=20
>> Triple the price to buyers - and present 'em as donations to the
>> Legion.
>=20
> And use the legion donation as a really nice tax credit.
>=20
> I dont think you can write off your time. I believe you can only
> write off materials when considering a donation. You give your time.
>=20
>=20
> You have already established a price per unit ;)
>=20
> P D Q
Don't think time is a function. At $60 a pop the bill would be about =
$3,000.
Should be all he needs is a receipt for tax purposes from the Legion.
P D Q
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "PDQ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Morris Dovey wrote:
>> Robatoy wrote:
>>
>>> Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy things
>>> with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple leaves and
>>> want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly waste/scrap with
>>> 15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is, each. Then I get a
>>> call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50 soldiers' graves with
>>> them... then I can't, with a clear conscience, ask them for that
>>> much. BUT.. if I tell them, say $ 15.00 each, and the rest of the
>>> country orders 5000 of them, all other projects stop and I have to
>>> make money.... quite a dilemma. Now it's no longer scrap either.
>>> What to do, what to do.
>>
>> Triple the price to buyers - and present 'em as donations to the
>> Legion.
>
> And use the legion donation as a really nice tax credit.
>
> I dont think you can write off your time. I believe you can only write
> off materials when considering a donation. You give your time.
>
>
> You have already established a price per unit ;)
>
> P D Q
this is correct. you can only write off the cost of materials for donated
goods. as a glass artist i get approached a lot for objects to raffle off.
it's more cost effective to just give a check.
regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/ChaniArts
>
> http://www.krtwood.com/curves.html
> http://www.krtwood.com/mission.html
>
>> http://www.alladd.com/index.htm
>
>
> -Kevin
Now you're just pissing me off. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> My three latest jewelry boxes:
>>
>> http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>>
>> First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
>> favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
>> over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
>> jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
>> functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
>> slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
>> because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
>> are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
>> interesting.
>>
>>
>> -Kevin
>
>
> Absolutely great Kevin but I was really turned off with the mechanical steel
> slides on the last one. May I suggest sliding dado's next time?
Thats the only thing I liked... Those slides looked like something I'd
do, the rest of it made me feel like, inferior....
Honestly, those slides really looked out of place on such nice, creative
work. The first two appear to have some creative and unusual slides, so
I can't help wondering why the metalware on the last one?
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com
[email protected] wrote:
> On Feb 17, 9:16 am, [email protected] wrote:
>> I'm disgusted! Those projects must have been done with Magic! I now
>> don't feel qualified to wipe down the toolbox of such a Master
>> Woodworker.
>
> Ha ha! Actually from a woodworking perspective everything is very
> simple. There are a lot of half lap joints and pocket screws in what
> I do. If I can do it, you can do it.
I don't think so Kevin. The designs are very appealing and creative. I
could probably do the work, but not the design. For example, the little
wave on the last box top is special, I doubt I would ever have come up
with doing that, very artistic. Don't under sell yourself, any one can
build stuff, you have to be special to design stuff that pleasing to the
eye.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com
Lee Michaels <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote
> >
> > Well everyone feels strongly about the slides :) I have had feedback
> > from customers that they don't like short drawers that fall out when
> > you try to get to the back of them. As I said elsewhere, the main
> >
> OK, I am moving rapidly into an area I know nothing about. But I have seen
> some kind of double dovetail slides out of wood. This would essentially be
> a full extension slide. No idea how to make them (obviously a jig of some
> kind) or how durable they would be. You obviously don't want to produce
> something that would break easily.
I think I saw some full extension slides made from wood in a Fine Woodworking
a few (maybe 10, maybe less) years back. But, those were on a full size
chest-of-drawers and were kind of big as I remember. Might be hard to do
on a jewelry box, except for that guy who does the minatures of course . . .
Bill Ranck
Blacksburg, Va.
In article <[email protected]>
[email protected] writes:
>On Feb 18, 11:57 am, Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Honestly, those slides really looked out of place on such nice, creative
>> work. The first two appear to have some creative and unusual slides, so
>> I can't help wondering why the metalware on the last one?
>
>Well everyone feels strongly about the slides :) I have had feedback
I'll take the risk of disagreeing with everyone. It may be my
beginner perspective, so I don't have any baggage attached to the
drawer slide issue. Whatever the reason, my first reaction to the
drawer slides was that the combination of beautiful wood and shiney
industrial parts was kind of cool.
Maybe I'd react differently to the box, but that was my reaction
to the pictures. Doesn't matter much. I can't afford your stuff,
so I'm not the customer you need to please.
--
| Stories of tortures used by debauchers
Drew Lawson | lurid, licentious and vile
| make me smile
Drew Lawson <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>
> [email protected] writes:
> >On Feb 18, 11:57 am, Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Honestly, those slides really looked out of place on such nice, creative
> >> work. The first two appear to have some creative and unusual slides, so
> >> I can't help wondering why the metalware on the last one?
> >
> >Well everyone feels strongly about the slides :) I have had feedback
> I'll take the risk of disagreeing with everyone. It may be my
> beginner perspective, so I don't have any baggage attached to the
> drawer slide issue. Whatever the reason, my first reaction to the
> drawer slides was that the combination of beautiful wood and shiney
> industrial parts was kind of cool.
It might look better if you could get brass, or at least brass
plated, slides. I always think brass looks better with wood.
But, hey, it's your stuff and you have to satisfy yourself first.
Bill Ranck
Blacksburg, Va.
[email protected] wrote:
> On Feb 20, 2:40 pm, Morris Dovey <[email protected]> wrote:
> > [email protected] wrote:
> > > It might look better if you could get brass, or at least brass
> > > plated, slides. I always think brass looks better with wood.
> >
> > Wow - I've never seen brass slides (but I haven't looked either) but
> > that's the best suggestion I've seen!
> Believe it or not I was just googling brass full extension slides this
> afternoon, but I didn't come up with anything. Anything is possible
> for the right amount of $$$ but for the tiny volume I do if it works
> out to $100/pr it aint worth it.
Yeah, I don't know if anyone makes brass full extension slides, I was
just saying that I prefer brass hardware with wood if it's available.
You have to work with what you can get. Like you say, money-no-object
is not a real game plan for staying in business.
> For the amount of weight involved it ought to be possible to make an
> undermount slide that isn't huge either.
For what it's worth, I don't think the steel slides looked all
that bad. Brass would look better, and black would too, but
you'd probably have a harder time finding slides in black than
in brass.
Bill Ranck
Blacksburg, Va.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:572fa769-5808-4415-96c5-d0cf97340f44@r22g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 17, 9:54 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
Holy shiat... good eye, Leon. And a good point. I didn't even notice
them the first time around, now they stand out like a sore slide.
Yup, they got to go.
*slaps forehead wondering why I didn't see them before....*
But in all fairness, the boxes are top rate. I guess I quickly noticed
because I built 2 jewelry chests about a year ago and all 26 drawers had the
sliding dado's for slides.
Now Kevin did mention that he liked the drawers coming "all" the way out
however he is obviously capable of building to tolerances close enough that
the sliding dado would allow the drawers to be pulled out enough that the
drawer backs would be fully visible. Basically my drawers will open far
enough that only the 1/2" thick drawer back is still inside the cabinet.
Leon wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:e896f997-aa10-4ad2-944c-54256166e48b@q30g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
> Snip
>
>>
>> The first time I used them exposed like that was the box that sold
>> the fastest, so people don't seem to mind. You don't see it when
>> it's closed, and they are so functional. I don't do it on every
>> box, but it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably
>> more often than not.
>>
>> -Kevin
>
> I will admit, my wife got one of the jewelry chests that I built and
> I sold the other before it was finished for $1,200.00. I really
> don't think that I could have gotten that amount with mechanical
> slides.
Holy bank account...I may take up jewelry boxes:)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Feb 17, 12:39 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> It's something I just never see anyone else do, but I do think there
> is a market there if you explain the benefits of them. Won't be any
> woodworkers buying them, but they wouldn't be buying them anyway.
Exactly. High end jewelry boxes are rather unique, and the one I sold was
about 1/2 the price of the High End ones that I have seen. It is hard to
sell in bigger quantities because most of the public is not interested in
the quality of the work. They feel that they have spent a fortune on their
jewelry, they typically don't want to spend a small fortune on a box to keep
it in. Woodworkers turly appreciate the craftsmanship but they can do it
themselves.
I think what most people don't understand in today's "immediate
gratification world" is that what they are buying at Sears, or Walmart is
not going to look or even feel the same in 5 years. The new has worn off
and they are conditioned by furniture not lasting and having to replace it
every so many years. Couple with that the fact that styles change and their
old Sears or Ikea stuff looks dated. Why does it look dated? BECAUSE IT IS
CHEAP!
Quality always looks good and is always in style. If you don't believe
that, take a look at what antique furniture goes for these days. You just
have to find the right kind of customer. I am finishing up on a small job
and was at an upholstery shop buying fabric with my wife. We ran into a guy
that was buying new fabric for an 1860's sofa that he said had the original
finish. He was buying frilly 3" buttons and tassels to put on the end of
the arm rests. He mentioned that he was thinking about asking $24K when he
was ready to resale it.
>
> And speaking of prices, that's an area I am always uncomfortable
> with. Usually I am selling online, but the last two are going to a
> gallery so I feel a little more freedom to ask a fair price, and need
> one since I am giving up 40% instead of around 15%. Anyone want to
> take a stab at pricing any of the three? I realize I haven't given
> dimensions, the second two are around 20" wide, the first one is
> around 16" tall and wide at the extremes.
"IMHO"
All 3 are probably not going to be large enough to command high dollar for
storage. You may very well get a pretty good asking price for the
art/design aspect on them however. Providing the pictures are not hiding
any problems and with the right group of customers I could see at least
$600, possibly much more. It will all depend on who is looking. Again, the
metal slides could bring the price down from my guess.
Take a look here, I was inspired by the chest on this site and made my small
modifications and changes and drew the complete set of plans using the
dimensions as a guide. I built my 2 chests based on the Gerstner 24K Crown
Jewelry Chests. Notice the price at the bottom of the page. I sold mine
for about 1/2 that price and I would not hesitate to compare them side by
side. I made mine from maple with tiger maple veneer on the drawer fronts.
the front doors had Saplted Oak center panels surrounded by Maple.
http://www.gerstnerusa.com/jewelry/24k.htm
Also take a look here for a more simple elegant design that is serious about
providing storage for lots of jewelry.
http://www.westcreekstudio.com/chests.html
and even larger chests
http://www.westcreekstudio.com/cabinets.html
and then there is this site
http://www.alladd.com/index.htm
I think with the right exposure you could easily fit into this end of the
category. But about those steel slides. :~)
tHEOn Tue, 17 Feb 2009 06:41:54 -0500, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> My three latest jewelry boxes:
>>
>> http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>>
>> First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
>> favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
>> over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
>> jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
>> functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
>> slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
>> because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
>> are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
>> interesting.
>
>
>Those are nice, very creative. Someone also did a first rate job on
>lighting them for the photos too. You?
I noticed that too. The photography is first-rate.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My three latest jewelry boxes:
>
> http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
>
> First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
> favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
> over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
> jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
> functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
> slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
> because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
> are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
> interesting.
>
>
> -Kevin
Very nice! Last one is my favorite, but they are all superb works of art.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:80a0b5da-6864-48cc-b7d9-9e23f08b756e@e24g2000vbe.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 17, 2:35 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Feb 17, 12:39 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy things
with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple leaves and
want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly waste/scrap with
15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is, each. Then I get a
call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50 soldiers' graves with
them... then I can't, with a clear conscience, ask them for that much.
BUT.. if I tell them, say $ 15.00 each, and the rest of the country
orders 5000 of them, all other projects stop and I have to make
money.... quite a dilemma. Now it's no longer scrap either. What to
do, what to do.
Keep in mind that 50 vs. 1 allows for a lot more wiggle room. As you well
know setup time is a big and real cost. Doing something 50 times with the
same set up is normally not too much more work than doing a set up for 1.
I would much rather make less per hour, not as much as you are considering,
if I can get in to a mass production setting with a back log than doing a 1
at a time thing.