ss

"stryped"

27/06/2006 7:45 AM

Mineral oil for cutting board

x-no-archive:yes

Is the mineral oil you find in the pharmacy for constipation the same
as what you use for a cutting board finish? (Something that wont go
rancid)?

Also, what are the best kind of rags to use to apply a finish?


This topic has 13 replies

Aa

"Andy"

in reply to "stryped" on 27/06/2006 7:45 AM

27/06/2006 10:05 AM

stryped wrote:
> Is the mineral oil you find in the pharmacy for constipation the same
> as what you use for a cutting board finish? (Something that wont go
> rancid)?

Yes.

> Also, what are the best kind of rags to use to apply a finish?

Something lint-free is best. Old socks/underwear/t-shirts are OK, but
have some lint, which can be a problem depending on the type of finish
- mineral oil should be fine with just about anything. I read
somewhere that old good-quality dress shirts are better for varnishes
etc. because the cotton fibers are longer and there's less lint, but I
haven't used them.
Good luck,
Andy

w

in reply to "stryped" on 27/06/2006 7:45 AM

28/06/2006 6:39 AM


no(SPAM)vasys wrote:
>
> Where are you finding BLO these days that doesn't have metallic dryers
> which render it toxic?
>

http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/

The key to these is that, unlike all the others that have metal driers,
these actually _are_ boiled. Sometimes old-timey really is the best
way.

I use these and love 'em. Put 'em on bare-handed if I want to. A joy
to work with.

w

in reply to "stryped" on 27/06/2006 7:45 AM

28/06/2006 6:40 AM


Toller wrote:
> That could be because mineral oil never dries.
> I use BLO. Non-toxic and actually dries.
> Supposedly walnut oil dries, but I expect it is rather more expensive than
> BLO

Walnut oil is actually cheaper. Found in better salad-dressing aisles
near you.

GG

"George"

in reply to "stryped" on 27/06/2006 7:45 AM

28/06/2006 6:41 AM


"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:cufog.25979$FR1.22979@dukeread05...
> Pharmacy mineral oil works fine but needs renewed every few months. I
> usually pour a small amount on the board, rub it around with my bare hands
> and blot/wipe it lightly with a soft, lint free rag (t-shirt, sheet,
> etc.). Pretty similar to tung or danish oil application. If you let the
> wet oil set on the board it will take forever to dry.
>

Or, in the case of mineral oil - never. That's the weakness. It collects
dirt and microbes in its sticky grip and makes it difficult for polar
solvents like water, even with the help of surfactants, to get to 'em.

GG

"George"

in reply to "stryped" on 27/06/2006 7:45 AM

28/06/2006 12:08 PM


"no(SPAM)vasys" <"no(SPAM)vasys"@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> I use BLO. Non-toxic and actually dries.
>> Supposedly walnut oil dries, but I expect it is rather more expensive
>> than BLO
>
> Where are you finding BLO these days that doesn't have metallic dryers
> which render it toxic?
>

Everywhere. Like everything, it's dose dependant. If you chug the bottle,
might take one or two to show an effect.

Experiments in mice have shown a significant decrease in prostate cancer in
mice fed linseed, so you might just want to consider it a medicine and limit
your dose to what's on the prescription.

dd

"dadiOH"

in reply to "stryped" on 27/06/2006 7:45 AM

27/06/2006 6:46 PM

stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> Is the mineral oil you find in the pharmacy for constipation the same
> as what you use for a cutting board finish? (Something that wont go
> rancid)?
>
> Also, what are the best kind of rags to use to apply a finish?

Old ones.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico


nn

"no(SPAM)vasys" <"no(SPAM)vasys"@adelphia.net>

in reply to "stryped" on 27/06/2006 7:45 AM

27/06/2006 8:23 PM

Toller wrote:
> "RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:cufog.25979$FR1.22979@dukeread05...
>
>>Pharmacy mineral oil works fine but needs renewed every few months. I
>>usually pour a small amount on the board, rub it around with my bare hands
>>and blot/wipe it lightly with a soft, lint free rag (t-shirt, sheet,
>>etc.). Pretty similar to tung or danish oil application. If you let the
>>wet oil set on the board it will take forever to dry.
>>
>
> That could be because mineral oil never dries.
> I use BLO. Non-toxic and actually dries.
> Supposedly walnut oil dries, but I expect it is rather more expensive than
> BLO
>
>

Where are you finding BLO these days that doesn't have metallic dryers
which render it toxic?

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
(Remove -SPAM- to send email)

TT

"Toller"

in reply to "stryped" on 27/06/2006 7:45 AM

27/06/2006 8:46 PM


"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:cufog.25979$FR1.22979@dukeread05...
> Pharmacy mineral oil works fine but needs renewed every few months. I
> usually pour a small amount on the board, rub it around with my bare hands
> and blot/wipe it lightly with a soft, lint free rag (t-shirt, sheet,
> etc.). Pretty similar to tung or danish oil application. If you let the
> wet oil set on the board it will take forever to dry.
>
That could be because mineral oil never dries.
I use BLO. Non-toxic and actually dries.
Supposedly walnut oil dries, but I expect it is rather more expensive than
BLO

Rr

"RonB"

in reply to "stryped" on 27/06/2006 7:45 AM

27/06/2006 2:16 PM

Pharmacy mineral oil works fine but needs renewed every few months. I
usually pour a small amount on the board, rub it around with my bare hands
and blot/wipe it lightly with a soft, lint free rag (t-shirt, sheet, etc.).
Pretty similar to tung or danish oil application. If you let the wet oil
set on the board it will take forever to dry.

Ron

Uu

"Upscale"

in reply to "stryped" on 27/06/2006 7:45 AM

28/06/2006 6:49 AM


"George" <George@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > Pharmacy mineral oil works fine but needs renewed every few months.

> Or, in the case of mineral oil - never. That's the weakness. It collects
> dirt and microbes in its sticky grip and makes it difficult for polar
> solvents like water, even with the help of surfactants, to get to 'em.

I use unscented baby oil. It's also called mineral oil if I remember
rightly, but I'm wondering if there's any practical difference between the
two.

sD

[email protected] (Doug Miller)

in reply to "stryped" on 27/06/2006 7:45 AM

27/06/2006 7:30 PM

In article <[email protected]>, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>x-no-archive:yes
>
>Is the mineral oil you find in the pharmacy for constipation the same
>as what you use for a cutting board finish? (Something that wont go
>rancid)?

What did folks tell you the last time you asked this question?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

FB

Frank Boettcher

in reply to "stryped" on 27/06/2006 7:45 AM

28/06/2006 6:26 AM

On 27 Jun 2006 07:45:44 -0700, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:

>x-no-archive:yes
>
>Is the mineral oil you find in the pharmacy for constipation the same
>as what you use for a cutting board finish? (Something that wont go
>rancid)?
>
Yes

>Also, what are the best kind of rags to use to apply a finish?

Lint free and disposable.

I use two step process. Walnut oil in several coats until it doesn't
want to rapidly absorb. Then I have a mixture of mostly walnut oil
with beeswax in it. I heat that up on my shop glue double boiler and
spread some on then buff it off when it solidfies.

Seems to work great, but I've never used mineral oil, so I have no
point of comparison.

Frank

nn

"no(SPAM)vasys" <"no(SPAM)vasys"@adelphia.net>

in reply to "stryped" on 27/06/2006 7:45 AM

28/06/2006 2:33 PM

George wrote:

> "no(SPAM)vasys" <"no(SPAM)vasys"@adelphia.net> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>>I use BLO. Non-toxic and actually dries.
>>>Supposedly walnut oil dries, but I expect it is rather more expensive
>>>than BLO
>>
>>Where are you finding BLO these days that doesn't have metallic dryers
>>which render it toxic?
>>
>
>
> Everywhere. Like everything, it's dose dependant. If you chug the bottle,
> might take one or two to show an effect.

I think I'll pass.

>
> Experiments in mice have shown a significant decrease in prostate cancer in
> mice fed linseed, so you might just want to consider it a medicine and limit
> your dose to what's on the prescription.
>
>

Was the linseed treated with salts of cobalt, manganese, etc.?

See Section B.4 and "Annexe 1" of the following publication:

http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/pdf/paints_varnishes/interimreport_nov2001.pdf

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
(Remove -SPAM- to send email)


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