I was checking the alignment of my JET tablesaw today, and noticed that
the blade (WWII)was cupped quite a bit (at least 1/16") when I
tightened the arbor nut. I think the problem is in the arbor flange
(the one next to the nut); it seems like it was incorrectly machined
and forces the blade to cup whenever I tightened it.
I assume getting a blade stabilizer would help, but I want to first fix
the arbor flange problem if it is indeed defective. Any ideas or
suggestions?
I just stopped by a local Jet dealer and compared my arbor flange with
the one they have on the floor. Mine has a different profile that I
think is the cause of the problem. Picked up a new flange from the
dealer for $5. Will find out tonite if it fixes the problem.
Thanks for all the input.
George wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I was checking the alignment of my JET tablesaw today, and noticed
that
> >
> > the blade (WWII)was cupped quite a bit (at least 1/16") when I
> > tightened the arbor nut. I think the problem is in the arbor flange
> > (the one next to the nut); it seems like it was incorrectly
machined
> > and forces the blade to cup whenever I tightened it.
> >
> >
> > I assume getting a blade stabilizer would help, but I want to first
fix
> >
> > the arbor flange problem if it is indeed defective. Any ideas or
> > suggestions?
> >
>
> Dished in? Is the outside washer's diameter not equal to the arbor
facing
> (fixed part)? Only way I see that this could be a problem, unless
we're on
> a different wavelength, and you're talking about misalignment of the
blade
> on the arbor itself.
>
> You set the blade on the table and all the teeth more or less touch
> regardless of side, so the blade is not naturally dished in, so it
would
> almost have to be the difference in diameters or a belly in the
washer
> itself, which would make the effective diameter less. If your washer
has a
> dished in center, it should face the blade, of course.
>
> Stabilizer may not "stabilize" the blade that much, but it does cut
down on
> noise with a lot of them.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I was checking the alignment of my JET tablesaw today, and noticed that
>
> the blade (WWII)was cupped quite a bit (at least 1/16") when I
> tightened the arbor nut. I think the problem is in the arbor flange
> (the one next to the nut); it seems like it was incorrectly machined
> and forces the blade to cup whenever I tightened it.
>
>
> I assume getting a blade stabilizer would help, but I want to first fix
>
> the arbor flange problem if it is indeed defective. Any ideas or
> suggestions?
>
Dished in? Is the outside washer's diameter not equal to the arbor facing
(fixed part)? Only way I see that this could be a problem, unless we're on
a different wavelength, and you're talking about misalignment of the blade
on the arbor itself.
You set the blade on the table and all the teeth more or less touch
regardless of side, so the blade is not naturally dished in, so it would
almost have to be the difference in diameters or a belly in the washer
itself, which would make the effective diameter less. If your washer has a
dished in center, it should face the blade, of course.
Stabilizer may not "stabilize" the blade that much, but it does cut down on
noise with a lot of them.
I have had this problem on my Unisaw. The nut is too tight. The arbor is
threaded so it won't loosen when running. It really doesn't have to be very
tight to work.max
> I was checking the alignment of my JET tablesaw today, and noticed that
>
> the blade (WWII)was cupped quite a bit (at least 1/16") when I
> tightened the arbor nut. I think the problem is in the arbor flange
> (the one next to the nut); it seems like it was incorrectly machined
> and forces the blade to cup whenever I tightened it.
>
>
> I assume getting a blade stabilizer would help, but I want to first fix
>
> the arbor flange problem if it is indeed defective. Any ideas or
> suggestions?
>
Get out the dial indicator and check the arbor shoulder where the
blade rests to be sure it is flat. Also, check the run out of the
threaded part. If both are true, then something else is causing this.
If they are NOT true, time to talk to Jet support about this
John
On 29 Mar 2005 06:54:45 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>I was checking the alignment of my JET tablesaw today, and noticed that
>
>the blade (WWII)was cupped quite a bit (at least 1/16") when I
>tightened the arbor nut. I think the problem is in the arbor flange
>(the one next to the nut); it seems like it was incorrectly machined
>and forces the blade to cup whenever I tightened it.
>
>
>I assume getting a blade stabilizer would help, but I want to first fix
>
>the arbor flange problem if it is indeed defective. Any ideas or
>suggestions?
1/8" thick steel is cupping 1/16" due to force applied to arbor nut?
You're making it WAY too tight. I actually don't believe it, not with
the radius of the arbor flange. Arbor nuts are self-tightening, simply
snugging them has worked quite well for me, for years.
George said the following on 3/29/2005 11:01 AM:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I was checking the alignment of my JET tablesaw today, and noticed that
>>
>>the blade (WWII)was cupped quite a bit (at least 1/16") when I
>>tightened the arbor nut. I think the problem is in the arbor flange
>>(the one next to the nut); it seems like it was incorrectly machined
>>and forces the blade to cup whenever I tightened it.
>>
>>
>>I assume getting a blade stabilizer would help, but I want to first fix
>>
>>the arbor flange problem if it is indeed defective. Any ideas or
>>suggestions?
>>
>
>
> Dished in? Is the outside washer's diameter not equal to the arbor facing
> (fixed part)? Only way I see that this could be a problem, unless we're on
> a different wavelength, and you're talking about misalignment of the blade
> on the arbor itself.
>
> You set the blade on the table and all the teeth more or less touch
> regardless of side, so the blade is not naturally dished in, so it would
> almost have to be the difference in diameters or a belly in the washer
> itself, which would make the effective diameter less. If your washer has a
> dished in center, it should face the blade, of course.
>
> Stabilizer may not "stabilize" the blade that much, but it does cut down on
> noise with a lot of them.
>
>