I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the
jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was
hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue
wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of
wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working
with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin
glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue)
or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what
finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a
conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about
something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or
getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly.
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 11:25:33 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
<[email protected]> wrote:
Yep, I remember doing that. It worked just fine too. That is until one
of the first graders decided that it would be fun to slide down head
first, landing on his nose, forhead, chin, etc. The teacher than had
us slide down on sand for an entire resess. The slide was never the
same after that. :-) Yes, the memories this group brings to mind!
>
>"alexy" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> anyone else
>> here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with
>> wax paper?
>
>When I was a kid, we had a huge, metal slide at out school. We brought
>sandwiches to school wrapped in wax paper. We would save the wax paper and
>bring it out to the slide. Just slide the wax paper under our butts and
>rocket down the slide. Do this enough times and we could improve the kid
>velocity beyond any measure of safety!
>
>
>
Dave Mundt wrote:
> Now...as for the lead paint issue. My parents dealt
> with the problem by training me NOT to chew on inappropriate
> things... If a kid is in the habit of scraping paint off of
> things and eating it, or, picking up flakes of stuff off
> the ground and eating them, perhaps the attention should
> be focused more on WHY he or she is doing this obviously
> inappropriate thing...rather than trying to get rid of ALL
> stuff like that.
I dunno Dave. For older children I might agree, but I have yet to meet
a child in the 1-2 yr old range who 1) doesn't put nearly everything it
can get hold of into its mouth, and 2) is capable of reasoned
instruction.
The lead problem for them is real, and that's the age when they're most
susceptible.
Even for older children, I would not want to assume that the primary
way they ingest this stuff is by picking up chips and chewing on them.
Even adults with good reasoning faculties rub up against or come into
contact with lead, and it somehow gets on the hands, which easily
transfer to nose, mouth, and eyes. Luckily, minor amounts of lead don't
affect adults that much (as far as we know at this point), but the
consequences are less optimistic for developing children.
As great as lead was for its UV protection etc., I'm glad we've
legislated it away for the most part, for childrens' sake.
H.
In article <[email protected]>,
Dan Major <[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the
>jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was
>hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue
>wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of
>wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working
>with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin
>glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue)
>or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what
>finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a
>conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about
>something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or
>getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly.
I keep a roll of wax paper in the shop for just this reason. For a
high-use permanent jig, perhaps you could laminate or use
melamine-coated PB. Wax works OK but you will have to reapply it
periodically.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Lee DeRaud <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 13:51:16 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
>wrote:
>
>>You could try melamine board. Titebond, anyway, doesn't stick to it. Not sure
>>about Gorilla Glue or CA.
>
>Dunno about actual "Gorilla Glue", but Titebond polyurethane glue
>works great with it.
"works great with it" meaning glues it effectively, or releases?
In my experimental butt joint of melamine laminated MDF to a face of
melamine, it held so effectively that the melamine delaminated when I
managed to break the joint.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
"alexy" <[email protected]> wrote
> "Lee Michaels" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"alexy" <[email protected]> wrote
>>>
>>> anyone else
>>> here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with
>>> wax paper?
>>
>>When I was a kid, we had a huge, metal slide at out school. We brought
>>sandwiches to school wrapped in wax paper. We would save the wax paper and
>>bring it out to the slide. Just slide the wax paper under our butts and
>>rocket down the slide. Do this enough times and we could improve the kid
>>velocity beyond any measure of safety!
>
> Ahh... memories!!
>
If this was done today, the kids would probably be locked up as terrorists!
It would be considered a form of child endangerment. Lawyers would salivate
thinking about big money lawsuits.
Come to think of it, hasn't all playgound equipment shrunk considerably
since we were kids? What would be the chance of finding a large metal slide
these days?
And we were just kids having fun!!
Is fun for kids outlawed now?
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 11:06:34 -0400, alexy <[email protected]> wrote:
>Lee DeRaud <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 13:51:16 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
>>wrote:
>>
>>>You could try melamine board. Titebond, anyway, doesn't stick to it. Not sure
>>>about Gorilla Glue or CA.
>>
>>Dunno about actual "Gorilla Glue", but Titebond polyurethane glue
>>works great with it.
>
>"works great with it" meaning glues it effectively, or releases?
>In my experimental butt joint of melamine laminated MDF to a face of
>melamine, it held so effectively that the melamine delaminated when I
>managed to break the joint.
Sorry, that's what I meant: the glue "worked great", as in "stuck like
glue".
Lee
Dan Major wrote:
>
> I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the
> jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was
> hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue
> wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of
> wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working
> with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin
> glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue)
> or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what
> finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a
> conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about
> something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or
> getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly.
Just finish them w/ and wax...nothing except the CA-types will stick.
I typically just use a sheet of wax paper in between to make it even
easier cleanup, however...
Lee Michaels wrote:
...
> Come to think of it, hasn't all playgound equipment shrunk considerably
> since we were kids? What would be the chance of finding a large metal slide
> these days?
>
Yeah, I've watched w/ disgust on the TV news the neutering of Wichita
playgrounds by the correctness police... :( They took out the "rocket
tower" that had been in a park since the early 60's a couple years ago
and this summer destroyed all the concrete climbing animal figures, all
of which had been there from at least that long ago. The supposed
justification was they had had some lead-based paint at some distant
time and by scraping on the bottoms and other inaccesible places they
had managed to remove a tiny scraping or two... :(
Greetings and Salutations....
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 11:28:01 -0500, Duane Bozarth
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Lee Michaels wrote:
>...
>> Come to think of it, hasn't all playgound equipment shrunk considerably
>> since we were kids? What would be the chance of finding a large metal slide
>> these days?
>>
>
>Yeah, I've watched w/ disgust on the TV news the neutering of Wichita
>playgrounds by the correctness police... :( They took out the "rocket
>tower" that had been in a park since the early 60's a couple years ago
>and this summer destroyed all the concrete climbing animal figures, all
>of which had been there from at least that long ago. The supposed
>justification was they had had some lead-based paint at some distant
>time and by scraping on the bottoms and other inaccesible places they
>had managed to remove a tiny scraping or two... :(
All part of that grand conspiracy to keep us all in diapers
for our entire life. After all, it IS in the best interests of
those in power to keep the vast majority of citizens ignorant,
fearful, and incompetent.
Now, having popped out THAT theory...The problem is more
that for some reason over the past 30 year or so, Americans have
bought into the concept that life can be totally safe. Take
my word for it (or not), life is NOT safe. And, in a lot of cases
there is NOT a lot we can rationally do to make it less dangerous.
In conjunction with that, many folks have developed the
belief that when bad things happen it is ALWAYS someone else's
responsibility...and that they should get a big compensation for
it. That is ONE of the reasons that lawyers drive the new cars
and can afford to wear the expensive suits.
This sort of attitude is exemplified by the fellow over
in Texas who rescued the drowning man, and was immediately arrested
and held in jail overnight. His "crime" was to make a decision
to go back under water ONE more time to try and get the drowning
guy up, instead of following the police instructions to get out
of the water. Now, it might have been that if he HAD followed
their instructions, the drowning guy would still have been
rescued in time. But, I suspect that since the rescue crews
were just showing up when he was pulling the guy up, the victim
would have been brain dead, and, it would have become more
of a body recovery than a rescue.
Now...as for the lead paint issue. My parents dealt
with the problem by training me NOT to chew on inappropriate
things... If a kid is in the habit of scraping paint off of
things and eating it, or, picking up flakes of stuff off
the ground and eating them, perhaps the attention should
be focused more on WHY he or she is doing this obviously
inappropriate thing...rather than trying to get rid of ALL
stuff like that.
Regards
Dave Mundt
Dan Major <[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the
>jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was
>hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue
>wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of
>wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working
>with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin
>glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue)
>or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what
>finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a
>conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about
>something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or
>getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly.
1) Shellac followed by a thin, well-buffed-out coat of paste wax. Made
the mistake of doing a workbench that way, and had to re level it so
everything didn't just slide off. But glue releases very well. (Not
sure about CA, though. But can remove it with acetone, I believe.)
2) wax paper, but I'd avoid putting it where your workpiece rubs, as
you don't want the wax getting on your work. And it will--anyone else
here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with
wax paper?
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Dan
I wrap projects in "saran wrap". You can buy industrial size rolls - works
like a charm and doesn't affect glue time or clamping pressure. I also line
all the clamps with cork - it will still bond, but the two in combination
are guaranteed.
my 2-cents
Schroeder
"Dan Major" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the
> jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was
> hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue
> wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of
> wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm
working
> with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin
> glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla
glue)
> or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what
> finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a
> conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about
> something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or
> getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly.
Dan Major (in [email protected]) said:
| I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need
| the jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up
| construction. I was hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or
| nylon, something the glue wouldn't stick to.
Dan...
Follow the link below for one approach that's served me well for
glue-ups using Titebond. It provides good alignment for box-like
constructions - and I've never managed to glue it to the work.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/drawer_clamp.html
In article <[email protected]>,
Lee Michaels <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"alexy" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> anyone else
>> here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with
>> wax paper?
>
>When I was a kid, we had a huge, metal slide at out school. We brought
>sandwiches to school wrapped in wax paper. We would save the wax paper and
>bring it out to the slide. Just slide the wax paper under our butts and
>rocket down the slide. Do this enough times and we could improve the kid
>velocity beyond any measure of safety!
>
>
>
>
And as someone once suggested here on the wreck, use wax paper to
quickly wax a plane sole or tablesaw top.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Dan Major wrote:
> I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the
> jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was
> hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue
> wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of
> wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working
> with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin
> glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue)
> or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what
> finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a
> conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about
> something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or
> getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly.
Wax paper.
Lee Michaels wrote:
> "alexy" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>>anyone else
>>here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with
>>wax paper?
>
>
> When I was a kid, we had a huge, metal slide at out school. We brought
> sandwiches to school wrapped in wax paper. We would save the wax paper and
> bring it out to the slide. Just slide the wax paper under our butts and
> rocket down the slide. Do this enough times and we could improve the kid
> velocity beyond any measure of safety!
>
My dad told me that, when he was a kid, he'd wrap a cat's paws in wax
paper and send it sliding onto the kitchen floor. Lots of fun watching
it try to stand up.
"alexy" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> anyone else
> here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with
> wax paper?
When I was a kid, we had a huge, metal slide at out school. We brought
sandwiches to school wrapped in wax paper. We would save the wax paper and
bring it out to the slide. Just slide the wax paper under our butts and
rocket down the slide. Do this enough times and we could improve the kid
velocity beyond any measure of safety!
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 13:44:06 GMT, Dan Major <[email protected]>
wrote:
try using wax paper or celophane
>I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the
>jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was
>hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue
>wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of
>wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working
>with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin
>glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue)
>or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what
>finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a
>conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about
>something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or
>getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly.
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 13:44:06 GMT, Dan Major <[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the
>jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was
>hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue
>wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of
>wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working
>with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin
>glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue)
>or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what
>finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a
>conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about
>something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or
>getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly.
being lazy, I've always put blue masking tape on the jig... makes cleanup easy
and it doesn't throw off the fit if the tape is applied smoothly....
Mac
03 Tahoe Widelite 26GT Travel Trailer
replaced 1958 Hilite tent trailer
99 Dodge Ram QQ 2wd - 5.9L, auto, 3:55 gears
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 13:51:16 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>You could try melamine board. Titebond, anyway, doesn't stick to it. Not sure
>about Gorilla Glue or CA.
Dunno about actual "Gorilla Glue", but Titebond polyurethane glue
works great with it. CA on melamine may not be structurally sound but
certainly sticks to it too much for OP's purposes.
Lee
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 13:44:06 GMT, Dan Major <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the
>jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was
>hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue
>wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of
>wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working
>with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin
>glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue)
>or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what
>finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a
>conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about
>something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or
>getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly.
I apply a finish (tung oil or danish oil, whatever is available) to
jigs that may come in contact with glue. After a couple days you can
apply Johnsons Paste Wax, giving added protection from glue. If you
are in a hurry wax paper works well.
>> Come to think of it, hasn't all playgound equipment shrunk considerably
>> since we were kids? What would be the chance of finding a large metal
>> slide
>> these days?
I'll build you one...
There is a 200' version in Saranac NY at a Young Life camp. They wet it
down and you go down backwards, head first onto the lake and hydroplane
across the surface for a good 15' or so...
I did it ONCE. That was enough.
--
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
http://www.AutoDrill.com
http://www.Multi-Drill.com
V8013-R
In article <[email protected]>, Dan Major <[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the
>jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was
>hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue
>wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of
>wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working
>with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin
>glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue)
>or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what
>finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a
>conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about
>something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or
>getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly.
You could try melamine board. Titebond, anyway, doesn't stick to it. Not sure
about Gorilla Glue or CA.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
In article <[email protected]>,
Dan Major <[email protected]> wrote:
> something the glue
> wouldn't stick to
Like some others, I use melamine for my smaller clamping cauls but for
my larger ones, I put a strip of clear packing tape on the
spruceyfirrypineywood's contact face, wrapping around the edges. No
problems at all with yellow glues or poly. I just finished some Ipe
glueups with polyglue and used wax paper to protect the work surface.
That too worked well and didn't stick.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________
"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05
"Lee Michaels" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"alexy" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> anyone else
>> here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with
>> wax paper?
>
>When I was a kid, we had a huge, metal slide at out school. We brought
>sandwiches to school wrapped in wax paper. We would save the wax paper and
>bring it out to the slide. Just slide the wax paper under our butts and
>rocket down the slide. Do this enough times and we could improve the kid
>velocity beyond any measure of safety!
Ahh... memories!!
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.