What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it would be
difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.
http://www.deltamesa.com/Wood/tess.gif
Maybe a jig of some sort with the scroll saw? These are tesselation
forms and so I'd have to be able to cut out several of them with a fair
degree of accuracy.
Other than simply having a surgeon's steady hand, what's the best
approach to cutting these shapes?
Jack
Hello,
I commented Your recent posting on accurate cuts on small pieces.
Tessellation forming means You readily have well determined geometrical
quantities for angles and distances. Also, If I understand correctly,
You want to make these cuts in a board. Because in woodworking there is
no seamless zero-loss cutting, you need to correct the cut by blade
thickness correction.
If for some reason You have doubts on Your ability to cut by the hand
guiding, then You need a jig. Actually, to me it's more fun to practice
to do such things by hand, but sometimes something demands more for
some reason.
Just a suggestion: Extend the table of the scroll saw with large piece
of fiberboard. If You already are aware of tessellation angles and
distances, You should be able to define the placement of jig fence with
a pair of compasses and a ruler. Note that You also must consider the
dimensions and squareness of the workpiece.
The challenge is that You will need one parallel edge in the working
piece board for each cut angle inside the board. I count 4 cut angles.
I do not know Your situation, but seems to me that If You cut these
forms inside a chess board, You need extra assisting framing around the
board where all of these angle are presented.
Then You need either quite a lot of accurately cut straigth blanks to
use with the static jig fence to compensate distances inside the board,
or You need adjustable and very accurately positioned fence. It's going
to be quite a hassle, but why not :) It's cool, anyway.
If You need a lot of these, it is always possible to take them to Your
nearest waterjet cutting service. They need a 2D cad file for the cut.
I mean, if accuracy is the only thing needed here, then I in Your
position would go for that.
Regards,
Samu
mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net kirjoitti:
> What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
> cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it would be
> difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.
>
> http://www.deltamesa.com/Wood/tess.gif
>
> Maybe a jig of some sort with the scroll saw? These are tesselation
> forms and so I'd have to be able to cut out several of them with a fair
> degree of accuracy.
>
> Other than simply having a surgeon's steady hand, what's the best
> approach to cutting these shapes?
>
> Jack
I also have some pretty weird friends here. I remember when someone of
them had an idea of using darts board as a chess board. I think they
did some quite serious attempts to define a chess-type of board game
with this approach. One game would have been to play a simple
checkmate, the other would have been to bring the king to the bullseye
like in the "king of the hill" -game.
If I remember it right, the most difficult was to compensate horse
moving pattern, because it became too powerful piece. Bishop was
designated to move in a similar manner, but with one step more forward.
This led to more complicated force balance and so on. I do not know the
current status of game development. Challenging, anyway. Not for
straight angle thinkers like me :)
But back on woodworking and cuts: it just needs "emancipated" practice.
Not only as technical exercise, but mental as well. If Your usual
occupation is intellectual, fast moving and quick decisions content
type of work, concentrating on something like slowly developing
straight cut with a scrollsaw becomes kinda "mental trip". For example
on sharpening blades by free hand, every now and then you can read on
people who grind and hone their tool edges. The edge is just about to
appear when something really unintentional disturbs your focus, perhaps
just a glimpse through the window, and the damn blade says screech on
the honing stone. Nothing new in there, pal :)
I know one thing by experience: The first thing I do when I start
working on anything remotely accuracte is that I check and adjust the
seat where I'm going to sit through the work. I know a guy who has a
Recaro racing bucket as his working chair. Works for him. No seat
belts, though :) Like said, the best jigs are well supported.
Regards,
Samu
mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
> Yeah, actually, a jig like you're describing would in fact be possible.
> The angles are well defined and as long as the sum of the angles on the
> jig are in a reasonable bound, even a slight deviation from the original
> design would work ... for my needs anyway.
>
> And yes, this would in fact be a VERY strange chessboard. But I have
> some very strange friends. I should show you the non-linear tic-tac-toe
> games they play.
>
> I think though that I will try it by hand at first. Maybe after twenty
> or thirty tries, I can get the hang of it. I have no problem cutting
> nice smooth curves on the scrollsaw because slight errors get absorbed
> in the noise.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jack
>
Yeah, actually, a jig like you're describing would in fact be possible.
The angles are well defined and as long as the sum of the angles on the
jig are in a reasonable bound, even a slight deviation from the original
design would work ... for my needs anyway.
And yes, this would in fact be a VERY strange chessboard. But I have
some very strange friends. I should show you the non-linear tic-tac-toe
games they play.
I think though that I will try it by hand at first. Maybe after twenty
or thirty tries, I can get the hang of it. I have no problem cutting
nice smooth curves on the scrollsaw because slight errors get absorbed
in the noise.
Thanks!
Jack
[email protected] wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I commented Your recent posting on accurate cuts on small pieces.
>
> Tessellation forming means You readily have well determined geometrical
> quantities for angles and distances. Also, If I understand correctly,
> You want to make these cuts in a board. Because in woodworking there is
> no seamless zero-loss cutting, you need to correct the cut by blade
> thickness correction.
>
> If for some reason You have doubts on Your ability to cut by the hand
> guiding, then You need a jig. Actually, to me it's more fun to practice
> to do such things by hand, but sometimes something demands more for
> some reason.
>
> Just a suggestion: Extend the table of the scroll saw with large piece
> of fiberboard. If You already are aware of tessellation angles and
> distances, You should be able to define the placement of jig fence with
> a pair of compasses and a ruler. Note that You also must consider the
> dimensions and squareness of the workpiece.
>
> The challenge is that You will need one parallel edge in the working
> piece board for each cut angle inside the board. I count 4 cut angles.
> I do not know Your situation, but seems to me that If You cut these
> forms inside a chess board, You need extra assisting framing around the
> board where all of these angle are presented.
>
> Then You need either quite a lot of accurately cut straigth blanks to
> use with the static jig fence to compensate distances inside the board,
> or You need adjustable and very accurately positioned fence. It's going
> to be quite a hassle, but why not :) It's cool, anyway.
>
> If You need a lot of these, it is always possible to take them to Your
> nearest waterjet cutting service. They need a 2D cad file for the cut.
> I mean, if accuracy is the only thing needed here, then I in Your
> position would go for that.
>
> Regards,
>
> Samu
>
> mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net kirjoitti:
>
>
>>What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
>>cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it would be
>>difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.
>>
>>http://www.deltamesa.com/Wood/tess.gif
>>
>>Maybe a jig of some sort with the scroll saw? These are tesselation
>>forms and so I'd have to be able to cut out several of them with a fair
>>degree of accuracy.
>>
>>Other than simply having a surgeon's steady hand, what's the best
>>approach to cutting these shapes?
>>
>>Jack
>
>
mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
> What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
> cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it
would be
> difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.
Not if you are any good with a scroll saw.
My landlord has a guy who makes temporary tooling use a scroll saw
free hand.
For him, it would be a piece of cake.
Lew
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
> What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
> cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it would be
> difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.
>
> http://www.deltamesa.com/Wood/tess.gif
>
> Maybe a jig of some sort with the scroll saw? These are tesselation
> forms and so I'd have to be able to cut out several of them with a fair
> degree of accuracy.
>
> Other than simply having a surgeon's steady hand, what's the best
> approach to cutting these shapes?
Is there any reason you need to make these boards out of blocks of solid
wood? Seems to me that what you're doing would be a lot easier using
marquetry techniques and veneer.
>
> Jack
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Jack wrote...
> What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
> cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it would be
> difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.
I'd make oversized templates, clamp em onto my Gorton Pantograph Mill, and
pound out as many a dem puppies I need, then clean out the inside corners
with a chisel.
--
Timothy Juvenal
www.rude-tone.com/work.htm
On Sun, 25 Jun 2006 14:59:58 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
<"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
>cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it would be
>difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.
>
>http://www.deltamesa.com/Wood/tess.gif
>
>Maybe a jig of some sort with the scroll saw? These are tesselation
>forms and so I'd have to be able to cut out several of them with a fair
>degree of accuracy.
>
>Other than simply having a surgeon's steady hand, what's the best
>approach to cutting these shapes?
If I had to do it- and I think I'd avoid it- I'd cut them a little
oversized on the bandsaw, then file or sand them down to the mark.
Looks like an awfully fussy project, though.