-MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>On 10/26/15 11:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> Electric Comet <[email protected]> writes:
>>> On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400 Jack <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but
>>>> I
>>>
>>> i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found wood
>>> and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself
>>
>> A planer without a jointer doesn't seem particularly useful to me,
>> unless you always buy perfectly flat lumber (and if you do, please
>> point me towards your supplier :-).
>>
>
>I have both, but my jointer is small and not much good for lengths over
>4 feet.
>I usually buy lumber that is at least flat on one side, though.
>
>A planer is also very useful for flattening joined panels.
>When making panels wider than my planer (13"), I will often only glue-up
>sections narrower than that, plane each one perfectly flat, then join
>those panels together for the final width. That leaves you with 1 or 2
>glue joints to scrape even instead of a dozen or more.
For the last few years, I've used the drum sander[*] in place of
the planer for almost everything the planer was formerly used
for; particularly for panels as well as for making one face
coplaner with the other face. If I need to remove more than .125",
I'll often drag out the Jet 15" planer, but more often than not I'll
resaw thicker stock rather than discarding (composting) piles of shavings.
[*] Performax 22-44.
On 10/26/2015 1:15 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>> On 10/26/15 11:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>> Electric Comet <[email protected]> writes:
>>>> On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400 Jack <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but
>>>>> I
>>>>
>>>> i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found wood
>>>> and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself
>>>
>>> A planer without a jointer doesn't seem particularly useful to me,
>>> unless you always buy perfectly flat lumber (and if you do, please
>>> point me towards your supplier :-).
>>>
>>
>> I have both, but my jointer is small and not much good for lengths over
>> 4 feet.
>> I usually buy lumber that is at least flat on one side, though.
>>
>> A planer is also very useful for flattening joined panels.
>> When making panels wider than my planer (13"), I will often only glue-up
>> sections narrower than that, plane each one perfectly flat, then join
>> those panels together for the final width. That leaves you with 1 or 2
>> glue joints to scrape even instead of a dozen or more.
>
> For the last few years, I've used the drum sander[*] in place of
> the planer for almost everything the planer was formerly used
> for; particularly for panels as well as for making one face
> coplaner with the other face. If I need to remove more than .125",
> I'll often drag out the Jet 15" planer, but more often than not I'll
> resaw thicker stock rather than discarding (composting) piles of shavings.
>
> [*] Performax 22-44.
>
Yeah! My Performax 22-44 sees lots of action too. If I can resaw the
sander gets the work. If I need more than half the thickness of the
stock the planer gets the work out.
On 10/26/2015 11:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Electric Comet <[email protected]> writes:
>> On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400
>> Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but I
>>
>> i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found wood
>> and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself
>
> A planer without a jointer doesn't seem particularly useful to me,
> unless you always buy perfectly flat lumber (and if you do, please
> point me towards your supplier :-).
>
I often use my planer but got rid of my jointer about 5 years ago.
Certainly good to have if you surface rough cut lumber but I simply did
not use mine.
Flat wood. I go through the lumber that I buy to make sure I get
relatively flat wood. Past that If you buy S4S lumber that is not flat
a jointer is not going to do you any good either unless you are OK with
less than 3/4" thick. Selling my work I find that there is simply not
enough savings to mill the wood to final thickness and I go with S4S to
begin with. I only use my planer if I buy S2S or need less than 3/4"
thick material.
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 17:31:48 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 10/22/2015 3:51 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Greg Guarino<[email protected]> wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
>>> email.me:
>>>
>>>> ... or efficient?
>>>>
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>>>
>>>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>>>
>>> Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
>>> especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
>>> on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
>>> rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
>>> to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
>>> other machining operations.
>>>
>>> (* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
>>> hand plane).
>>>
>>> John
>> Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
>> power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
>> foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
>> planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.
>>
>> Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
>> identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.
>
>Bandsaw needs no jig, simply freehand to the line and clean it up.
>
>And, repeatability is near trivial...for first step, one would gang the
>work pieces.
To make 400 of them????? Or even 40?
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 21:39:33 -0400, woodchucker <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 10/22/2015 4:51 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
>>> email.me:
>>>
>>>> ... or efficient?
>>>>
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>>>
>>>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>>>
>>> Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
>>> especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
>>> on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
>>> rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
>>> to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
>>> other machining operations.
>>>
>>> (* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
>>> hand plane).
>>>
>>> John
>> Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
>> power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
>> foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
>> planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.
>>
>> Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
>> identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.
>>
>
>so I am not sure it assures repeatability more so than a tablesaw.
>With the tablesaw, when you are done you can take a swipe on the
>jointer. It's fully supported all the way through.
>I truly dislike Glen's methods. Taking a point (the first few passes on
>two points) and moving it to a spinning blade is asking for trouble.
>We're not talking a tablesaw.
>
>I believe that it might actually push back the point and slap the front
>down to the table.
>But those are my beliefs. I just posted something from the table book in
>the binaries. It show's another Glen moment.
I've done similar in the past with no issues.
On 10/22/2015 11:01 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 17:31:48 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 10/22/2015 3:51 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Greg Guarino<[email protected]> wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
>>>> email.me:
>>>>
>>>>> ... or efficient?
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>>>>
>>>>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>>>>
>>>> Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
>>>> especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
>>>> on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
>>>> rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
>>>> to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
>>>> other machining operations.
>>>>
>>>> (* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
>>>> hand plane).
>>>>
>>>> John
>>> Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
>>> power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
>>> foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
>>> planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.
>>>
>>> Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
>>> identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.
>>
>> Bandsaw needs no jig, simply freehand to the line and clean it up.
>>
>> And, repeatability is near trivial...for first step, one would gang the
>> work pieces.
> To make 400 of them????? Or even 40?
>
Really, you going to tape them together? Clamp them together???
I don't think so. Repeatable.
So is my tablesaw.
--
Jeff
On 10/23/2015 10:30 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 10/23/2015 9:26 AM, dpb wrote:
>> On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> ... or efficient?
>>>>
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>>>
>>>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>>>
>>> The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
>>> much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.
>>
>> I'd disagree w/ a typical small taper on a TS..the bandsaw, yes; TS,
>> "not so much". Not that it can't be but it's a lot more trouble as you
>> _must_ have a tapering sled for the TS whereas it's simply a freehand
>> operation on the BS.
>>
>> --
>>
> This is true but I then, most likely, you have to clean that cut up.
> And FWIW once you have the tapering sled it is not much different than
> ripping a board.
Agreed. My tapering sled is also used to cleanup boards with no straight
edge.
--
Jeff
On 10/22/2015 11:02 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
> You mean NORM in his early years ? Now that was nothing to behold!
>
> He has cleaned up his act after having problems.
>
> Using a table saw can be and often is just as tricky and dangerous.
>
> A high speed blade with hook teeth ? and someone feeds stock into it.
>
> Cutting joints on a table saw can be nasty.
>
> Martin
>
> On 10/22/2015 9:24 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 10/22/2015 10:11 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>> What is the problem.
>>> He is a pro or semi-pro and stated over and over NOT to do
>>> this without the guard. He was showing the cutter do its thing.
>>>
>>> Martin
>>>
>>> On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> ... or efficient?
>>>>
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>>>
>>>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>>
>> He's a pro, only in that someone paid him to write.
>> He might have nice stuff, I don't know. But I always found his methods
>> to be wreckless for the in-experienced, or even the avid woodworker.
>>
Norm was never (that I saw) dangerous.
Glen, is usually dangerous (from what I have seen).
--
Jeff
On 10/23/2015 11:53 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 10/23/15 10:58 AM, John McCoy wrote:
>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
[snip]
> I'm not missing any point and I know perfectly well how and why shoe
> blocks work.
> Exerting force forward of the trailing edge is *one* advantage of a shoe
> block, not the only or even most important advantage. A shoe block can
> and would put downward force where it's needed for the procedure in this
> video. I have several shop-made shoe blocks of differing sizes/lengths,
> all with can be made in the time it takes to locate an appropriately
> size garbage can for storing a birdmouth pushstick. :-)
>
> I still say a shoe block is better this (and just about any other)
> procedure.
> You can even see how uneasy the guy is with the birdsmouth sticks.
> That's generally how it goes any time people try to do a procedure with
> two pushsticks, trying to apply pressure in two directions at one time.
If the only tool you have is a hammer then every problem tends to be a
nail. Nothing wrong with birds mouth push sticks any more than there is
with shoe blocks, etc. The trick is to use the one most appropriate for
the job or... maybe custom make one for the job at hand.
I would not use the birds mouth stick as the gent did in the video...
at least not when I'm knocking 3/8" off of stock. I'd want much more
control than those will provide. OTOH, if the taper was going to be
subtle, like 3/8" total, depending on the type of stock I might be
comfortable using the birds mouth.
I suspect that those of us who get in trouble - and all of us do at one
time or another - fall into the trap of "I know this ain't the best
setup but..." It's quite similar to "Hey, hold my beer and watch
this!" <g>
On 10/24/2015 8:39 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Unquestionably Confused <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 10/23/2015 11:53 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>
>>> I'm not missing any point and I know perfectly well how and why shoe
>>> blocks work.
>>> Exerting force forward of the trailing edge is *one* advantage of a
[snip]
> My point exactly. For that particular job, a push stick that
> focused all the force at the trailing end would be most
> appropriate. Which isn't to say another style wouldn't work,
> it's more of a "better" and "best" situation.
>
> As for a custom part, and to Mike's point about the difficulty
> of using two push sticks, I think if I were going to use that
> technique I'd try to find a way to use featherboards rather
> than the second stick. Which might take a specially shaped
> featherboard, or some sort of riser block to put it in the
> right position.
My thought on customizing the push block for doing the tapered leg on
the jointer was to make an "L-shaped" push block with the sides slightly
less width than the leg itself with a hook or edge on the near end to
firmly push. Made in this fashion I think it would provide adequate
support to hold down and snug the workpiece to the fence and table.
Again, just thinking aloud but that's what I'd do. (Think of those jigs
used to machine small parts on a router table. The jig firmly attached
(however) to the workpiece and the jig is way larger than the workpiece
for good control and safety.
On 10/24/2015 2:17 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 10/23/2015 9:30 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> This is true but I then, most likely, you have to clean that cut up.
>>> And FWIW once you have the tapering sled it is not much different than
>>> ripping a board.
>>
>> Well, you'll have to cleanup the TS cut, too, in all likelihood... :)
>
> That depends on the construction of the taper sled. If you cut your tapers top-to-bottom, with
> the blade entering the side of the leg and exiting from the end, some blade deflection at the
> beginning of the cut is almost inevitable, leaving cuts that need some cleanup. That's one of
> the main reasons I designed and built what I called "TUTS - The Ultimate Taper Sled" (you
> may remember my post about that several years ago). That sled cuts tapers from the bottom
> up, with the blade entering the end of the leg and exiting from the side. There's no detectable
> blade deflection, and what little cleanup needs to be done can be accomplished in under a
> minute with a card scraper.
>
I started going from the bottom up, when I could not figure out why the
taper was at an angle at the top. I don't remember if it was the rec or
alt binaries where someone recommended bottom up.
My sled was capable either way. To me it seemed I was cutting against
the grain with this method, but the cuts were now square. And it has not
been a problem.
So I'll second your recommendation of cut from the bottom up. It solved
my problem.
--
Jeff
On 10/22/2015 4:51 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
>> email.me:
>>
>>> ... or efficient?
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>>
>>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>>
>> Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
>> especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
>> on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
>> rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
>> to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
>> other machining operations.
>>
>> (* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
>> hand plane).
>>
>> John
> Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
> power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
> foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
> planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.
>
> Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
> identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.
>
so I am not sure it assures repeatability more so than a tablesaw.
With the tablesaw, when you are done you can take a swipe on the
jointer. It's fully supported all the way through.
I truly dislike Glen's methods. Taking a point (the first few passes on
two points) and moving it to a spinning blade is asking for trouble.
We're not talking a tablesaw.
I believe that it might actually push back the point and slap the front
down to the table.
But those are my beliefs. I just posted something from the table book in
the binaries. It show's another Glen moment.
--
Jeff
On 10/24/2015 10:26 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 10:19:17 -0400
> Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>
> another thought is that a joiner is not at the top of the list of tools to get
>
> i do not have a joiner and have no plans to get one
> but more importantly i have not needed one
>
> so maybe he was asked to find a use for the joiner and do a video
Europeans have been using a jointer to taper parts for longer than dodo
and his video have been around.
Hell, you have to have decent jointer chops to use a jointer and NOT
taper a part, that's why you typically joint one face FIRST, and plane
the other parallel. ;)
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
email.me:
> ... or efficient?
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>
> (using a jointer to taper legs)
Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
other machining operations.
(* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
hand plane).
John
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> The whole procedure would go much more smoothly and safely if he'd only
> use a shoe-style push block.
Actually, since he needs to rock the part back on end for the
second cut, the bird's mouth stick might be better for that.
It's kind of an unusual application to want to raise the
leading edge of the work, usually you're trying to force the
leading edge down.
John
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On 10/22/15 4:00 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>
>>> The whole procedure would go much more smoothly and safely if he'd
>>> only use a shoe-style push block.
>>
>> Actually, since he needs to rock the part back on end for the second
>> cut, the bird's mouth stick might be better for that. It's kind of an
>> unusual application to want to raise the leading edge of the work,
>> usually you're trying to force the leading edge down.
> As far as I can tell, the reason he makes the first notch on the back
> side, is so the piece can move forward on two stable points. A shoe
> push block would be fine in doing that.
You're kind of missing the point. The advantage of a shoe
type push block is it exerts it's force well forward of the
trailing edge of the work - which is desirable when you want
to keep the work flat, as on a table saw.
For this cut, tho, you don't want the force forward. You
want all of the downward force right at the trailing edge
of the work. You could do that with a shoe, but it's
probably easier to focus all the force on that point with
the birds-mouth.
John
Unquestionably Confused <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 10/23/2015 11:53 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> I'm not missing any point and I know perfectly well how and why shoe
>> blocks work.
>> Exerting force forward of the trailing edge is *one* advantage of a
>> shoe block, not the only or even most important advantage. A shoe
>> block can and would put downward force where it's needed for the
>> procedure in this video. I have several shop-made shoe blocks of
>> differing sizes/lengths, all with can be made in the time it takes to
>> locate an appropriately size garbage can for storing a birdmouth
>> pushstick. :-)
>>
>> I still say a shoe block is better this (and just about any other)
>> procedure.
>> You can even see how uneasy the guy is with the birdsmouth sticks.
>> That's generally how it goes any time people try to do a procedure
>> with two pushsticks, trying to apply pressure in two directions at
>> one time.
>
> If the only tool you have is a hammer then every problem tends to be a
> nail. Nothing wrong with birds mouth push sticks any more than there
> is with shoe blocks, etc. The trick is to use the one most
> appropriate for the job or... maybe custom make one for the job at
> hand.
My point exactly. For that particular job, a push stick that
focused all the force at the trailing end would be most
appropriate. Which isn't to say another style wouldn't work,
it's more of a "better" and "best" situation.
As for a custom part, and to Mike's point about the difficulty
of using two push sticks, I think if I were going to use that
technique I'd try to find a way to use featherboards rather
than the second stick. Which might take a specially shaped
featherboard, or some sort of riser block to put it in the
right position.
John
[email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
> power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
> foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw
I disagree; search for my post several years ago about "The Ultimate Taper Sled".
> or band saw, and no
> planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.
No planing needed with a good table saw blade either.
>
> Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
> identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.
But trivially easy to accomplish with a properly-designed taper sled for the table saw. Much
safer, too.
dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On 10/23/2015 9:30 AM, Leon wrote:
>> This is true but I then, most likely, you have to clean that cut up.
>> And FWIW once you have the tapering sled it is not much different than
>> ripping a board.
>
> Well, you'll have to cleanup the TS cut, too, in all likelihood... :)
That depends on the construction of the taper sled. If you cut your tapers top-to-bottom, with
the blade entering the side of the leg and exiting from the end, some blade deflection at the
beginning of the cut is almost inevitable, leaving cuts that need some cleanup. That's one of
the main reasons I designed and built what I called "TUTS - The Ultimate Taper Sled" (you
may remember my post about that several years ago). That sled cuts tapers from the bottom
up, with the blade entering the end of the leg and exiting from the side. There's no detectable
blade deflection, and what little cleanup needs to be done can be accomplished in under a
minute with a card scraper.
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> ... or efficient?
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>>
>>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>>
>> The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
>> much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.
>
> Except as noted in my post, when the leg stock is too thick to cut on a
> 10" bladed table saw, compounded further by the use of a sled.
>
> That, and exact repeatability, is why I have occasionally used the
> jointer to tape extra thick legs.
>
Even in that circumstance, I think I'd opt for roughing it on the band saw, followed by cleanup
on the jointer, rather than doing the entire job on the jointer.
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
[...]
> those damned aluminum taper jigs are
> simply too treacherous ... waaaaay more so than the jointer method.
No argument there.
On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> ... or efficient?
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>
>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>
> The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
> much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.
Except as noted in my post, when the leg stock is too thick to cut on a
10" bladed table saw, compounded further by the use of a sled.
That, and exact repeatability, is why I have occasionally used the
jointer to tape extra thick legs.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 10/24/2015 9:21 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> ... or efficient?
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>>
>>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>>
>> The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
>> much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.
>
> Except as noted in my post, when the leg stock is too thick to cut on a
> 10" bladed table saw, compounded further by the use of a sled.
>
> That, and exact repeatability, is why I have occasionally used the
> jointer to tape extra thick legs.
>
Absolutely, Thick legs/stock can be done on most any jointer, but in the
example, the stock was not very big.
On 10/23/2015 9:26 AM, dpb wrote:
> On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> ... or efficient?
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>>
>>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>>
>> The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
>> much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.
>
> I'd disagree w/ a typical small taper on a TS..the bandsaw, yes; TS,
> "not so much". Not that it can't be but it's a lot more trouble as you
> _must_ have a tapering sled for the TS whereas it's simply a freehand
> operation on the BS.
>
> --
>
This is true but I then, most likely, you have to clean that cut up.
And FWIW once you have the tapering sled it is not much different than
ripping a board.
Electric Comet <[email protected]> writes:
>On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400
>Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but I
>
>i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found wood
>and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself
A planer without a jointer doesn't seem particularly useful to me,
unless you always buy perfectly flat lumber (and if you do, please
point me towards your supplier :-).
On 10/24/2015 1:20 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>> That, and exact repeatability, is why I have occasionally used the
>> jointer to tape extra thick legs.
>>
> Even in that circumstance, I think I'd opt for roughing it on the band saw, followed by cleanup
> on the jointer, rather than doing the entire job on the jointer.
Tried that, went back to the ful lmonte jointer method on stock too
thick to cut on the table saw.
Simply took too much time to get all legs to be exact replicas. Might be
me just being anal, but I look closely at things like that and it bugs
me no end to not see precisely dimensioned parts.
Much rather use one of my two tapering sleds, but simply can't cut 4"
square leg stock on them, and those damned aluminum taper jigs are
simply too treacherous ... waaaaay more so than the jointer method.
Not many people do it, was surprised to see it even mentioned here.
As usual, YMMV ...
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
>email.me:
>
>> ... or efficient?
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>
>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>
>Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
>especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
>on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
>rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
>to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
>other machining operations.
>
>(* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
>hand plane).
>
>John
Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.
Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.
On 10/22/15 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> ... or efficient?
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>
> (using a jointer to taper legs)
Looks like a viable technique.
I don't see anything unsafe with his *method.*
However, as I've said so many times before, those stupid birds-mouth
push sticks are very UNsafe. I cringe when I see him using them for
doing that.
The whole procedure would go much more smoothly and safely if he'd only
use a shoe-style push block.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 10:19:17 -0400
Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> (using a jointer to taper legs)
it looks strange with those sticks
if it feels unsafe then it probably is
i guess he is comfortable doing it that way
the process seems slow though
did he go slower for the camera
On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> ... or efficient?
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>
> (using a jointer to taper legs)
Not terribly _un_safe, no, altho I'd not do that significant a taper
wholly with the jointer and certainly not in as large a bite
(particularly in hardwood which would likely be the target for most
furniture legs).
As another said, I'd use the "start in the middle on the outfeed table"
technique for small tapers; as another said that much of a taper would
(should imo) be cut on the bandsaw and cleaned up either as that poster
said w/ handplane or I often do use one or two quick _very_ light passes
over the jointer instead...
Suit yourself on the style of pushstick; I've no real preference there,
but don't see any drastic problem with the traditional (probably 'cuz
that's what was raised with, if nothing else..)
--
On 10/22/15 4:00 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>
>> The whole procedure would go much more smoothly and safely if he'd
>> only use a shoe-style push block.
>
> Actually, since he needs to rock the part back on end for the second
> cut, the bird's mouth stick might be better for that. It's kind of an
> unusual application to want to raise the leading edge of the work,
> usually you're trying to force the leading edge down.
>
> John
>
As far as I can tell, the reason he makes the first notch on the back
side, is so the piece can move forward on two stable points. A shoe
push block would be fine in doing that.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/22/2015 3:51 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Greg Guarino<[email protected]> wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
>> email.me:
>>
>>> ... or efficient?
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>>
>>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>>
>> Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
>> especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
>> on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
>> rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
>> to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
>> other machining operations.
>>
>> (* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
>> hand plane).
>>
>> John
> Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
> power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
> foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
> planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.
>
> Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
> identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.
Bandsaw needs no jig, simply freehand to the line and clean it up.
And, repeatability is near trivial...for first step, one would gang the
work pieces.
--
On 10/22/2015 10:01 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 17:31:48 -0500, dpb<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 10/22/2015 3:51 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Greg Guarino<[email protected]> wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
>>>> email.me:
>>>>
>>>>> ... or efficient?
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>>>>
>>>>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>>>>
>>>> Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
>>>> especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
>>>> on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
>>>> rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
>>>> to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
>>>> other machining operations.
>>>>
>>>> (* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
>>>> hand plane).
>>>>
>>>> John
>>> Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
>>> power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
>>> foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
>>> planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.
>>>
>>> Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
>>> identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.
>>
>> Bandsaw needs no jig, simply freehand to the line and clean it up.
>>
>> And, repeatability is near trivial...for first step, one would gang the
>> work pieces.
> To make 400 of them????? Or even 40?
Certainly more efficient and reproducible than the one-at-a-time of the
demo, yes. But, these aren't production woodworking groups; it is <rec>
--
On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> ... or efficient?
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>
>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>
> The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
> much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.
I'd disagree w/ a typical small taper on a TS..the bandsaw, yes; TS,
"not so much". Not that it can't be but it's a lot more trouble as you
_must_ have a tapering sled for the TS whereas it's simply a freehand
operation on the BS.
--
On 10/23/2015 12:22 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Greg Guarino wrote:
>
>> email.me:
>>
>> ... or efficient?
>
>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>
> ------------------------------
> 3/8" climb cuts are not my speed.
>
...
There's no "climb cut" anywhere to be seen -- a stopped cut, yes, but
it's into the cutter and is a normal operation on a jointer.
A climb cut is cutting with the material moving in the same direction as
the rotating cutter; that would be feeding from the outfeed table
towards the infeed and yes, if were suggesting that it would be a
definite no-no; but it isn't.
As I pointed out above, I'd worry some about the 3/8" in hardwoods
primarily just for quality of the cut and likelihood of tearout
(particularly with something like red oak that'd be _a_bad_idea_(tm) )
but looks like he's got a chunk of softwood in the demo.
It seems to me that many of what were considered routine operations 50+
year ago have been lost with the lack of industrial education. The
general use of the jointer as demonstrated is not out of the ordinary at
all; the only thing at all questionable in my opinion is that healthy
cut in "one swell foop" instead of a couple of passes.
I can't think when last time I saw/heard anybody suggest use of the
rabbeting table on the jointer as intended/designed...
--
On 10/23/2015 9:30 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 10/23/2015 9:26 AM, dpb wrote:
>> On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> ... or efficient?
>>>>
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>>>
>>>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>>>
>>> The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
>>> much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.
>>
>> I'd disagree w/ a typical small taper on a TS..the bandsaw, yes; TS,
>> "not so much". Not that it can't be but it's a lot more trouble as you
>> _must_ have a tapering sled for the TS whereas it's simply a freehand
>> operation on the BS.
>>
>> --
>>
> This is true but I then, most likely, you have to clean that cut up.
> And FWIW once you have the tapering sled it is not much different than
> ripping a board.
Well, you'll have to cleanup the TS cut, too, in all likelihood... :)
And, it's only a lick or two with a good plane.
--
On 10/23/15 10:58 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 10/22/15 4:00 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>
>>>> The whole procedure would go much more smoothly and safely if
>>>> he'd only use a shoe-style push block.
>>>
>>> Actually, since he needs to rock the part back on end for the
>>> second cut, the bird's mouth stick might be better for that. It's
>>> kind of an unusual application to want to raise the leading edge
>>> of the work, usually you're trying to force the leading edge
>>> down.
>
>> As far as I can tell, the reason he makes the first notch on the
>> back side, is so the piece can move forward on two stable points.
>> A shoe push block would be fine in doing that.
>
> You're kind of missing the point. The advantage of a shoe type push
> block is it exerts it's force well forward of the trailing edge of
> the work - which is desirable when you want to keep the work flat, as
> on a table saw.
>
> For this cut, tho, you don't want the force forward. You want all of
> the downward force right at the trailing edge of the work. You could
> do that with a shoe, but it's probably easier to focus all the force
> on that point with the birds-mouth.
>
> John
>
I'm not missing any point and I know perfectly well how and why shoe
blocks work.
Exerting force forward of the trailing edge is *one* advantage of a shoe
block, not the only or even most important advantage. A shoe block can
and would put downward force where it's needed for the procedure in this
video. I have several shop-made shoe blocks of differing sizes/lengths,
all with can be made in the time it takes to locate an appropriately
size garbage can for storing a birdmouth pushstick. :-)
I still say a shoe block is better this (and just about any other)
procedure.
You can even see how uneasy the guy is with the birdsmouth sticks.
That's generally how it goes any time people try to do a procedure with
two pushsticks, trying to apply pressure in two directions at one time.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/23/2015 9:36 AM, dpb wrote:
...
> It seems to me that many of what were considered routine operations 50+
> year ago have been lost with the lack of industrial education. The
> general use of the jointer as demonstrated is not out of the ordinary at
> all; the only thing at all questionable in my opinion is that healthy
> cut in "one swell foop" instead of a couple of passes.
>
> I can't think when last time I saw/heard anybody suggest use of the
> rabbeting table on the jointer as intended/designed...
In fact, I venture there is a sizable fraction who don't even understand
what that little outcroppie thingie is there for at all...
--
On 10/23/2015 10:36 AM, dpb wrote:
> I can't think when last time I saw/heard anybody suggest use of the
> rabbeting table on the jointer as intended/designed...
That's what I was looking for when I found the video I asked about. I
could imagine a jointer being convenient for repeated rabbets.
I'm surprised that the tapering method seems to be a known,
semi-standard technique. That said, I doubt I'll be trying it.
On 10/23/2015 3:35 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 10/23/2015 10:36 AM, dpb wrote:
>> I can't think when last time I saw/heard anybody suggest use of the
>> rabbeting table on the jointer as intended/designed...
>
> That's what I was looking for when I found the video I asked about. I
> could imagine a jointer being convenient for repeated rabbets.
>
> I'm surprised that the tapering method seems to be a known,
> semi-standard technique. That said, I doubt I'll be trying it.
I taper a lot of things via the jointer, albeit generally not in that
manner nor for things with that much taper; as said, I'd cut that to
near a line w/ the bandsaw and then just clean it up w/ the jointer (or
a hand plane depending on my mood and the particular piece :) ).
Mostly what I do is to start w/ a line and simply work to the line by
starting in the middle and repeat...but as said, it'd be rare indeed to
choose to take that much off on that steep an angle via the jointer alone...
For the doubters on the BS, there's an article in August FWW by Pekovich
of very nice dresser where he tapered the legs their length. One
illustration shows the taper cut in progress; you can see there'll be
very little handwork left when he's done...
--
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 10:19:17 -0400
Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> (using a jointer to taper legs)
another thought is that a joiner is not at the top of the list of tools to get
i do not have a joiner and have no plans to get one
but more importantly i have not needed one
so maybe he was asked to find a use for the joiner and do a video
On 10/23/2015 12:53 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
I have several shop-made shoe blocks of differing sizes/lengths,
> all with can be made in the time it takes to locate an appropriately
> size garbage can for storing a birdmouth pushstick. :-)
>
> I still say a shoe block is better this (and just about any other)
> procedure.
> You can even see how uneasy the guy is with the birdsmouth sticks.
> That's generally how it goes any time people try to do a procedure with
> two pushsticks, trying to apply pressure in two directions at one time.
I almost always prefer birdsmouth sticks, particularly on the table saw.
I have zero problems applying pressure in two directions at the same
time. IMO (and considerable experience) Birdmouths are very safe, hard
to get hurt using them.
On the table saw, if the piece is large enough for a shoe block, I
generally just use my hand. If it's too small for my hand, I prefer to
use two birdsmouth, although in the last few years I have been using a
piece of 2x with a handle. I feel very comfortable using two birds on
the jointer when the piece is too small for a shoe type.
I see nothing particularly dangerous with his methods, although I never
did it, I think it looks like a great method, not sure about a 3/8" cut
on my jointer, unless I had a segmented spiral cutter head, which I
really wish I had on my jointer.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 10/24/2015 11:26 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> another thought is that a joiner is not at the top of the list of tools to get
>
> i do not have a joiner and have no plans to get one
> but more importantly i have not needed one
>
> so maybe he was asked to find a use for the joiner and do a video
Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but I use
my jointer all the time, more than just for the planer, it is a very
nice tool to have, and is about mandatory if you use a planer, or do
much work with rough cut lumber.
Top of the list tool, probably not, nor is a planer, but they both are
needed in a cabinet shop.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 10/24/2015 6:39 PM, Swingman wrote:
> Hell, you have to have decent jointer chops to use a jointer and NOT
> taper a part, that's why you typically joint one face FIRST, and plane
> the other parallel. ;)
Amen to that. Near impossible to pull off. I quit trying long ago. Same
with snipe on a planer. I quit trying and simply add snipe to the cut
off list when possible.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 10/23/2015 2:34 PM, DJ Delorie wrote:
> dpb <[email protected]> writes:
>> I can't think when last time I saw/heard anybody suggest use of the
>> rabbeting table on the jointer as intended/designed...
>
> I had to do a set of 3/4x3/4 rabbets on some 6' boards recently. I
> considered the jointer for a moment, then said "no way!". ended up
> using the tablesaw (two cuts with a regular blade).
>
> I think I've used that rabbeting shelf once, just to see how it worked.
> Haven't dared use it since then.
Ditto! Of the many ways to make a rabbet, this has to be the least
favorite. I did it exactly once for the same reason as you, just way
too much hassle for the the wrong tool to do the job. Well, it might be
better than using a motor-less rabbeting plane... yuck.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400
Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
> Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but I
i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found wood
and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself
On 10/26/15 11:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Electric Comet <[email protected]> writes:
>> On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400 Jack <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but
>>> I
>>
>> i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found wood
>> and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself
>
> A planer without a jointer doesn't seem particularly useful to me,
> unless you always buy perfectly flat lumber (and if you do, please
> point me towards your supplier :-).
>
I have both, but my jointer is small and not much good for lengths over
4 feet.
I usually buy lumber that is at least flat on one side, though.
A planer is also very useful for flattening joined panels.
When making panels wider than my planer (13"), I will often only glue-up
sections narrower than that, plane each one perfectly flat, then join
those panels together for the final width. That leaves you with 1 or 2
glue joints to scrape even instead of a dozen or more.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/26/15 1:15 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>> On 10/26/15 11:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>> Electric Comet <[email protected]> writes:
>>>> On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400 Jack <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand,
>>>>> but I
>>>>
>>>> i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found
>>>> wood and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself
>>>
>>> A planer without a jointer doesn't seem particularly useful to
>>> me, unless you always buy perfectly flat lumber (and if you do,
>>> please point me towards your supplier :-).
>>>
>>
>> I have both, but my jointer is small and not much good for lengths
>> over 4 feet. I usually buy lumber that is at least flat on one
>> side, though.
>>
>> A planer is also very useful for flattening joined panels. When
>> making panels wider than my planer (13"), I will often only
>> glue-up sections narrower than that, plane each one perfectly flat,
>> then join those panels together for the final width. That leaves
>> you with 1 or 2 glue joints to scrape even instead of a dozen or
>> more.
>
> For the last few years, I've used the drum sander[*] in place of the
> planer for almost everything the planer was formerly used for;
> particularly for panels as well as for making one face coplaner with
> the other face. If I need to remove more than .125", I'll often drag
> out the Jet 15" planer, but more often than not I'll resaw thicker
> stock rather than discarding (composting) piles of shavings.
>
> [*] Performax 22-44.
>
I would love a wide sander like that!
The woodworking shows had a vendor called Stockroom Supply that sold
flatness sander kits for much cheaper than an industrial model. I still
may get one of those.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/9/15 1:55 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 10/24/2015 9:25 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>
>> Never ceases to amaze me that folks who have no clue, and who so
>> obviously have no personal experience with regard to a woodworking
>> procedure, will continue to expound hereabouts as if their wisdom in the
>> matter is infinite and unquestionable.
>
+100
I'm stealing that.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Swingman wrote:
> On 10/24/2015 9:25 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>
>> Never ceases to amaze me that folks who have no clue, and who so
>> obviously have no personal experience with regard to a woodworking
>> procedure, will continue to expound hereabouts as if their wisdom in
>> the matter is infinite and unquestionable.
>
> .
Thank you Karl! I get in trouble when I speak my mind like that, so I'm
glad to see you do so.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Swingman wrote:
>
> Never ceases to amaze me that folks who have no clue, and who so
> obviously have no personal experience with regard to a woodworking
> procedure, will continue to expound hereabouts as if their wisdom in
> the matter is infinite and unquestionable.
>
Hey! This is my first post to this thread, and I am a lot more humble
than that! ; )
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Hey! This is my first post to this thread, and I am a lot more humble
> than that! ; )
>
> Bill
And besides that Bill - you're just a nice guy
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 10/22/2015 10:11 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
> What is the problem.
> He is a pro or semi-pro and stated over and over NOT to do
> this without the guard. He was showing the cutter do its thing.
>
> Martin
>
> On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> ... or efficient?
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>
>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
He's a pro, only in that someone paid him to write.
He might have nice stuff, I don't know. But I always found his methods
to be wreckless for the in-experienced, or even the avid woodworker.
--
Jeff
Never ceases to amaze me that folks who have no clue, and who so
obviously have no personal experience with regard to a woodworking
procedure, will continue to expound hereabouts as if their wisdom in the
matter is infinite and unquestionable.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 10/24/2015 9:25 AM, Swingman wrote:
>
> Never ceases to amaze me that folks who have no clue, and who so
> obviously have no personal experience with regard to a woodworking
> procedure, will continue to expound hereabouts as if their wisdom in the
> matter is infinite and unquestionable.
.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> ... or efficient?
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>
> (using a jointer to taper legs)
Absolutely safe, if a bit tricky and fussy on setup.
Back in December, at the request of a client, I put tapered legs on a
built-in extension of a kitchen peninsula.
The leg size she wanted was simply too big to cut on a 10" table saw
with tapering jig. I used the exact same method in your video above to
do the leg tapers on the jointer:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#6208586244951950434
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Fri, 23 Oct 2015 09:02:53 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> ... or efficient?
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>
>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>
>The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
>much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.
The Jointer was the tool of the day back 50 or more years ago for
tapers and stuff, and also for rabbits as in both cases they were very
clean and precise cuts.
BTW the guard has to come off for rabbits, there is no other way.
But I was shocked at the 3/8 " cut he was making right out of the
chute. I am surprised it didn't chock on it.
On 10/22/2015 10:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> ... or efficient?
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>
> (using a jointer to taper legs)
I can't stand Glen Huey.
He always shows the most unsafe methods of working.
A jointer can be used to tape legs. Would I do it the way he did?
Absolutely now. I would put the piece up on the outfeed in the same
spot each time and work from there. It self tapers.
His way is dangerous.
I can show you some pics of a book that I have that he does some
unbelievable stupid methods of work.
He should not be teaching others how to do things.
--
Jeff
You mean NORM in his early years ? Now that was nothing to behold!
He has cleaned up his act after having problems.
Using a table saw can be and often is just as tricky and dangerous.
A high speed blade with hook teeth ? and someone feeds stock into it.
Cutting joints on a table saw can be nasty.
Martin
On 10/22/2015 9:24 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 10/22/2015 10:11 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>> What is the problem.
>> He is a pro or semi-pro and stated over and over NOT to do
>> this without the guard. He was showing the cutter do its thing.
>>
>> Martin
>>
>> On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> ... or efficient?
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ
>>>
>>> (using a jointer to taper legs)
>
> He's a pro, only in that someone paid him to write.
> He might have nice stuff, I don't know. But I always found his methods
> to be wreckless for the in-experienced, or even the avid woodworker.
>
dpb <[email protected]> writes:
> I can't think when last time I saw/heard anybody suggest use of the
> rabbeting table on the jointer as intended/designed...
I had to do a set of 3/4x3/4 rabbets on some 6' boards recently. I
considered the jointer for a moment, then said "no way!". ended up
using the tablesaw (two cuts with a regular blade).
I think I've used that rabbeting shelf once, just to see how it worked.
Haven't dared use it since then.