I have a 10-year old B & D table saw. It appears that the arbor is too
short to add a dado blade. I don't really have the space or budget for
a new saw now.
I'd like to build some bookshelves, and make dados in the side rails for
the shelves. I just finished making a bookshelf where I cut the dados
with a backsaw and straight-edge clamped to the work. It worked well,
but getting uniform depth on the cuts was difficult.
Looking for suggestions on how to cut accurate dados with a dado blade.
For the dados close to the end of the work, I was thinking I could clamp
2 shelf-size boards to the fence before the blade, and use the miter to
cut. Then remove one of the boards and cut again.
Is there a better way?
"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a 10-year old B & D table saw. It appears that the arbor is too
> short to add a dado blade. I don't really have the space or budget for
> a new saw now.
>
> I'd like to build some bookshelves, and make dados in the side rails for
> the shelves. I just finished making a bookshelf where I cut the dados
> with a backsaw and straight-edge clamped to the work. It worked well,
> but getting uniform depth on the cuts was difficult.
>
> Looking for suggestions on how to cut accurate dados with a dado blade.
> For the dados close to the end of the work, I was thinking I could clamp
> 2 shelf-size boards to the fence before the blade, and use the miter to
> cut. Then remove one of the boards and cut again.
>
> Is there a better way?
>
>
A router can make good dados.
Jim
In article
<[email protected]>, Pat
Barber <[email protected]> wrote:
> Find a posting from Leon on his "spiffy dado jig"...
> using Google groups.
I tried that and the ONLY hit I got was your post, the one to which I'm
replying.
Gerry
On Fri, 3 Jun 2005 09:46:15 -0400, "Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I guess before specific recommendation, what's the material, what size
>> is it and what size dado? Also, what do you have for tools other than
>> not having a dado set?
>
>It is oak, and the shelves are 1 by. Yes, I do have a router and have
>considered that. Not sure how easy it would be to plow through oak,
>though.
>
Been there, done that. Not too difficult.
Use a good quality carbide tipped cutter and make several shallow cuts. I made
a frame that the router slides in and snugs up along the outside of the
plank(s). When doing shelves, I like to do the two sides at the same time to
ensure that the shelves are spaced dead on
____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA
[email protected]
Buck Turgidson wrote:
>
> >
> > Looking for suggestions on how to cut accurate dados with a dado
> blade.
>
> This should read:
>
> Looking for suggestions on how to cut accurate dados _without_ a dado
> blade.
Router is one way.
Certainly possible to do it just like w/ a dado set and "nibble" the
center out although slower and need more cleanup.
I guess before specific recommendation, what's the material, what size
is it and what size dado? Also, what do you have for tools other than
not having a dado set?
With a fresh straight cutting bit, no problem at all.
The router is your friend making dado joints.
Find a posting from Leon on his "spiffy dado jig"...
using Google groups.
Buck Turgidson wrote:
>
> It is oak, and the shelves are 1 by. Yes, I do have a router and have
> considered that. Not sure how easy it would be to plow through oak,
> though.
>
>
> I guess before specific recommendation, what's the material, what size
> is it and what size dado? Also, what do you have for tools other than
> not having a dado set?
It is oak, and the shelves are 1 by. Yes, I do have a router and have
considered that. Not sure how easy it would be to plow through oak,
though.
On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 13:19:37 GMT, "Jim Bailey"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Don't forget the kerf ! Been there...
>
He needs a kerf-sized spacer to replace the shelf.
>Jim Bailey
>
>"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I have a 10-year old B & D table saw. It appears that the arbor is too
>> short to add a dado blade. I don't really have the space or budget for
>> a new saw now.
>>
>> I'd like to build some bookshelves, and make dados in the side rails for
>> the shelves. I just finished making a bookshelf where I cut the dados
>> with a backsaw and straight-edge clamped to the work. It worked well,
>> but getting uniform depth on the cuts was difficult.
>>
>> Looking for suggestions on how to cut accurate dados with a dado blade.
>> For the dados close to the end of the work, I was thinking I could clamp
>> 2 shelf-size boards to the fence before the blade, and use the miter to
>> cut. Then remove one of the boards and cut again.
>>
>> Is there a better way?
>>
>>
>
> I just cut some grooves by cutting both sides with a normal saw blade
> and hogging out the middle with an old Stanley #70 (?) "router".
>
> OK, I did it just for the fun of using the router plane, but it worked
That's exactly what I would've said... only I thought of a chisel to slam out the rest.
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
What do you mean, "not sure how easy it would be to plow through oak"??
Is your router underpowered, and your bits are worn out from milling
a few too many feet of Ipe? :)
Dave
Buck Turgidson wrote:
>>I guess before specific recommendation, what's the material, what size
>>is it and what size dado? Also, what do you have for tools other than
>>not having a dado set?
>
>
> It is oak, and the shelves are 1 by. Yes, I do have a router and have
> considered that. Not sure how easy it would be to plow through oak,
> though.
>
>
Don't forget the kerf ! Been there...
Jim Bailey
"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a 10-year old B & D table saw. It appears that the arbor is too
> short to add a dado blade. I don't really have the space or budget for
> a new saw now.
>
> I'd like to build some bookshelves, and make dados in the side rails for
> the shelves. I just finished making a bookshelf where I cut the dados
> with a backsaw and straight-edge clamped to the work. It worked well,
> but getting uniform depth on the cuts was difficult.
>
> Looking for suggestions on how to cut accurate dados with a dado blade.
> For the dados close to the end of the work, I was thinking I could clamp
> 2 shelf-size boards to the fence before the blade, and use the miter to
> cut. Then remove one of the boards and cut again.
>
> Is there a better way?
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> Looking for suggestions on how to cut accurate dados _without_ a dado
> blade.
>
I just cut some grooves by cutting both sides with a normal saw blade
and hogging out the middle with an old Stanley #70 (?) "router".
OK, I did it just for the fun of using the router plane, but it worked
:-).
--
BNSF = Build Now, Seep Forever
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> I have a 10-year old B & D table saw. It appears that the arbor is
> too short to add a dado blade. I don't really have the space or
> budget for a new saw now.
>
> I'd like to build some bookshelves, and make dados in the side rails
> for the shelves. I just finished making a bookshelf where I cut the
> dados with a backsaw and straight-edge clamped to the work. It
> worked well, but getting uniform depth on the cuts was difficult.
>
> Looking for suggestions on how to cut accurate dados with a dado
> blade. For the dados close to the end of the work, I was thinking I
> could clamp 2 shelf-size boards to the fence before the blade, and
> use the miter to cut. Then remove one of the boards and cut again.
>
> Is there a better way?
Other than a router, you could halve (or more) the passes with your saw
by using two or more blades on it.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> It is oak, and the shelves are 1 by. Yes, I do have a router and have
> considered that. Not sure how easy it would be to plow through oak,
> though.
Depending on depth of dado, it is normal to do the cutting in multiple
passes.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
If you lived in the good old UK you would have no choice; all our saws have
short arbours so that we can not use dado blades. Apparently our Health and
Safety Executive believes we can't be trusted with them!
Routers work great but better still with a jig; using guide bushes and
different size blades you can get just about any width exactly.
It still doesn't make me feel any less jealous when I see Norm Abram making
a dado in abot a quarter the time it takes me!
Barry Uk
"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> writes:
> Looking for suggestions on how to cut accurate dados _without_ a dado
> blade.
You can make two or three cuts with a table saw at the edges of the
dado and use a chisel to clean up the extra. This can be done fast, as
the critical parts aren't done by hand.
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
On Fri, 3 Jun 2005 08:52:16 -0400, "Buck Turgidson"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a 10-year old B & D table saw. It appears that the arbor is too
>short to add a dado blade. I don't really have the space or budget for
>a new saw now.
What model number? I've never seen one that wouldn't accommodate a
dado.
>Looking for suggestions on how to cut accurate dados with a dado blade.
...without...?
1. Power Router and guide.
2. Depending on width [fixed/variable] a good clean molding set.
3. Nibble with repeated saw cuts.
4. Hand Router [the old-fashioned way.] Better than chiselling out
backsaw cuts.
"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Looking for suggestions on how to cut accurate dados with a dado blade.
> For the dados close to the end of the work, I was thinking I could clamp
> 2 shelf-size boards to the fence before the blade, and use the miter to
> cut. Then remove one of the boards and cut again.
>
> Is there a better way?
Router. Check Pat Warner's site for some information on how to make a nifty
jig for accuracy, IIRC there is a video but it may have been on another
site.
You can nibble away with a regular blade. Instead of one pass with a dado
blade, you make 8 or 10 passes with the regular blade. Not as neat though.
Be sure you have stops set too.
Plane. Works for neanders
On Fri, 3 Jun 2005 08:52:16 -0400, "Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Looking for suggestions on how to cut accurate dados [without] a dado blade.
IMHO, nibble them on the table saw, rather than using a router. This may
vary, depending on the stability and accuracy of your own kit.
You'll want a crosscut box that's nice and stable, then you just cut the
two side cheeks of the dado. Remove the central waste by either nibbling
at it, or with a rebate plane (a Stanley #92 is just the job) and maybe
a router plane (#71) to shift the bulk. If it's not too tough a timber,
then this short-grain stuff just flies out.
I wouldn't do it with a router. It's hard to get such neat straight
edges, and there's a real risk of an accidental divot in at least one
place. You also have to make the first cut on both sides of the bit, so
one side is climb milling.
If you rout it, make a good guide jig to control the router.
Personally I'd also use a cutter about 2/3rd of the dado width, and I'd
make one pass for each side. If you have the rigidity and the
confidence, then do it in one pass.
A router is obviously preferable if it's a bigger piece of timber than
you want to be sliding around on your saw's table.
--
Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet.
On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 17:29:44 GMT, "Barry Parsons"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>If you lived in the good old UK you would have no choice; all our saws have
>short arbours so that we can not use dado blades.
Only the recent ones (mine has no trouble), and not the production-grade
ones. Even Machine Mart will cheerfully sell you a dado head.
> Apparently our Health and Safety Executive believes we can't be trusted with them!
They don't like them, but that's not why we don't have short arbors.
It's to do with the spin-down time regulations of PUWER 98 (Google this
ng for details)
If you haven't already seen it, this is worth the read.
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/woodindx.htm
--
Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet.
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html
G.E.R.R.Y. wrote:
> In article
> <[email protected]>, Pat
> Barber <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Find a posting from Leon on his "spiffy dado jig"...
>>using Google groups.
>
>
> I tried that and the ONLY hit I got was your post, the one to which I'm
> replying.
>
> Gerry