I need to make a couple of 1/4" solid cherry panels. I have never done this
before because I usually buy plywood when I need 1/4" panels.
My panels are 18.5" wide by 14.5" long. I was planning on making 4 boards
per panel for the glue-up to get the required width.
Are there any tricks to getting a flat panel out of a 4 board glue-up for
1/4" panels? How should I apply clamping pressure and should I NOT glue
them up all at once?
Thanks
Project:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TV_Stand.htm
--
Brian
www.garagewoodworks.com
"In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king."
Desiderius Erasmus
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Don't forget that if you start with over dimensioned stock, as above, you
> will have ample chances to re-rip your joints on a table saw and start
> over
> if you have less than desirable results the first time around.
>
> This also holds true for thickness, as you can plane (hand or machine) to
> final thickness, usually giving you better results than if you're locked
> into a particular dimension.
AND, if you make the panels over sided in width you do not have to worry
about clamp indentions on the edges as those will be trimmed off,
"Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The reason that we have raised panels is not because they look nice,
> although they do, but because the old timers used this method when
> making a panel. They beveled the perimeter so that it would fit in
> the housing and turned the beveled face towards the less public face.
>
> I wouldn't want to glue up 1/4" panels of the size described and would
> use the raised panel method.
I thought about making the panels 1/2" or so and beveling the inside so it
fits in a 1/4" groove.
Do you recommend this for longevity or will the panel have a better chance
of being flat?
>
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Tom
>
> Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
> tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
> www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
>> I need to make a couple of 1/4" solid cherry panels. I have never done
> this
>> before because I usually buy plywood when I need 1/4" panels.
>>
>> My panels are 18.5" wide by 14.5" long. I was planning on making 4
>> boards
>> per panel for the glue-up to get the required width.
>> Are there any tricks to getting a flat panel out of a 4 board glue-up for
>> 1/4" panels? How should I apply clamping pressure and should I NOT glue
>> them up all at once?
>
> What Barry said .... adding that it's nice if you can start with boards
> that
> are a bit longer and wider than you need and after you're satisfied with
> your panels, trim them to project dimensions.
>
> In addition, and FWIW, I'd probably do two glue-up's for each panel (2
> boards per). This gives you a better chance for flat panels with thinner
> stock, IME.
>
> Don't forget that if you start with over dimensioned stock, as above, you
> will have ample chances to re-rip your joints on a table saw and start
> over
> if you have less than desirable results the first time around.
>
> This also holds true for thickness, as you can plane (hand or machine) to
> final thickness, usually giving you better results than if you're locked
> into a particular dimension.
Thanks for the great advice! (even though I have been woodworking for 5
years, I keep running into situations where my experience is lacking. It's
great to have access to 'more experience' here)
>
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 5/14/08
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
>
>
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I like to edge joint thin panels in pairs with a hand plane. Just as
> some folks do with thicker panels, fold the panels like a book and
> plane them together. You'll only need a pass or two after power
> jointing. Even a block plane will do. I find a sharp hand plane much
> easier and more accurate than my jointer on thin stock.
>
> I glue them with waxed cauls across the middle, and the edges aligned
> by trapping them between clamped melamine blocks. I'd scrape the glue
> line with a carbide scraper, followed by a card scraper or my drum
> sander.
>
>> How should I apply clamping pressure and should I NOT glue
>>them up all at once?
>
> I don't get crazy with the pressure. Sometimes, I'll do two and two.
> Try it without glue and see if all four boards are too much of a pain.
Thanks Barry!
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Don't forget that if you start with over dimensioned stock, as above, you
>> will have ample chances to re-rip your joints on a table saw and start
>> over
>> if you have less than desirable results the first time around.
>>
>> This also holds true for thickness, as you can plane (hand or machine) to
>> final thickness, usually giving you better results than if you're locked
>> into a particular dimension.
>
>
> AND, if you make the panels over sided in width you do not have to worry
> about clamp indentions on the edges as those will be trimmed off,
Nice! Thanks.
>
>
"Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 31 May 2008 22:59:10 -0400, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>
>>I thought about making the panels 1/2" or so and beveling the inside so it
>>fits in a 1/4" groove.
>>
>>Do you recommend this for longevity or will the panel have a better chance
>>of being flat?
>
>
> If the 1/4" is fully housed, it may not be a problem.
What you mean by 'fully housed' here?
Thanks.
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Zqw0k.232$yg6.195@trnddc01...
> He means stuck in a frame. To keep the panel flat when it wants to warp.
>
> There is no problem making a 1/4" panel of the size you want, the problem
> is in keeping it flat. Embedding it in a frame will keep it flat *IF* the
> frame is strong enough to resist the warping.
Ok got it. Yep. It will be in a 1/4 groove on all four sides.
Thnaks!
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
On Sat, 31 May 2008 12:18:33 -0400, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>Are there any tricks to getting a flat panel out of a 4 board glue-up for
>1/4" panels?
I like to edge joint thin panels in pairs with a hand plane. Just as
some folks do with thicker panels, fold the panels like a book and
plane them together. You'll only need a pass or two after power
jointing. Even a block plane will do. I find a sharp hand plane much
easier and more accurate than my jointer on thin stock.
I glue them with waxed cauls across the middle, and the edges aligned
by trapping them between clamped melamine blocks. I'd scrape the glue
line with a carbide scraper, followed by a card scraper or my drum
sander.
> How should I apply clamping pressure and should I NOT glue
>them up all at once?
I don't get crazy with the pressure. Sometimes, I'll do two and two.
Try it without glue and see if all four boards are too much of a pain.
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
On Sat, 31 May 2008 12:18:33 -0400, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>I need to make a couple of 1/4" solid cherry panels. I have never done this
>before because I usually buy plywood when I need 1/4" panels.
>
>My panels are 18.5" wide by 14.5" long. I was planning on making 4 boards
>per panel for the glue-up to get the required width.
>Are there any tricks to getting a flat panel out of a 4 board glue-up for
>1/4" panels? How should I apply clamping pressure and should I NOT glue
>them up all at once?
>
>Thanks
>
>Project:
>http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TV_Stand.htm
The reason that we have raised panels is not because they look nice,
although they do, but because the old timers used this method when
making a panel. They beveled the perimeter so that it would fit in
the housing and turned the beveled face towards the less public face.
I wouldn't want to glue up 1/4" panels of the size described and would
use the raised panel method.
Regards,
Tom
Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
On Sat, 31 May 2008 22:59:10 -0400, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>I thought about making the panels 1/2" or so and beveling the inside so it
>fits in a 1/4" groove.
>
>Do you recommend this for longevity or will the panel have a better chance
>of being flat?
If the 1/4" is fully housed, it may not be a problem.
If it's not, I'd want the bigger glue line and the stability that
comes with the thicker panel.
Regards,
Tom
Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
"Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
> I need to make a couple of 1/4" solid cherry panels. I have never done
this
> before because I usually buy plywood when I need 1/4" panels.
>
> My panels are 18.5" wide by 14.5" long. I was planning on making 4 boards
> per panel for the glue-up to get the required width.
> Are there any tricks to getting a flat panel out of a 4 board glue-up for
> 1/4" panels? How should I apply clamping pressure and should I NOT glue
> them up all at once?
What Barry said .... adding that it's nice if you can start with boards that
are a bit longer and wider than you need and after you're satisfied with
your panels, trim them to project dimensions.
In addition, and FWIW, I'd probably do two glue-up's for each panel (2
boards per). This gives you a better chance for flat panels with thinner
stock, IME.
Don't forget that if you start with over dimensioned stock, as above, you
will have ample chances to re-rip your joints on a table saw and start over
if you have less than desirable results the first time around.
This also holds true for thickness, as you can plane (hand or machine) to
final thickness, usually giving you better results than if you're locked
into a particular dimension.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> "Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Sat, 31 May 2008 22:59:10 -0400, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>>
>>>I thought about making the panels 1/2" or so and beveling the inside so
>>>it
>>>fits in a 1/4" groove.
>>>
>>>Do you recommend this for longevity or will the panel have a better
>>>chance
>>>of being flat?
>>
>>
>> If the 1/4" is fully housed, it may not be a problem.
>
> What you mean by 'fully housed' here?
He means stuck in a frame. To keep the panel flat when it wants to warp.
There is no problem making a 1/4" panel of the size you want, the problem is
in keeping it flat. Embedding it in a frame will keep it flat *IF* the
frame is strong enough to resist the warping.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
> Thanks for the great advice! (even though I have been woodworking for 5
> years, I keep running into situations where my experience is lacking.
> It's great to have access to 'more experience' here)
>
Yes, a bunch "more experience" then I have.....more sarcasm....more
tongue-in-cheek...an a few down right hillarious postings. I do like this
NG.
"Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> AND, if you make the panels over sided in width you do not have to worry
>> about clamp indentions on the edges as those will be trimmed off,
>
> Nice! Thanks.
ALTHOUGH, glued panels for a door assembly don't have this particular
problem as the edges are hidden in side the rails and stiles.