I have sprayed dye on a set of kitchen cabinets and followed it with l=
acquer. On one cabinet I did some "patch work" with a filler that says it =
will take stain. No such luck. The dye took everywhere except where the f=
iller was used. Unfortunately, it is a "right in your face" spot. =20
My proposed solution (other than tearing it out and repairing the piec=
e) is to put some dye in finish material and spray on very light coats. It=
is a water soluble dye and lacquer. Would it be better to use shellac as =
a carrier for the patch dye, or just put it in the lacquer and spray light =
coats. I saw Robert's approach to spraying the dye in a "powder" form and t=
hen finish coat over it. Sounds tricky, but anything is better than redoin=
g this part of the cabinet.
Len
On Thursday, March 7, 2013 1:03:27 PM UTC-8, Len wrote:
> I have sprayed dye on a set of kitchen cabinets and followed it with lacq=
uer. On one cabinet I did some "patch work" with a filler that says it will=
take stain. No such luck. The dye took everywhere except where the filler =
was used. Unfortunately, it is a "right in your face" spot. My proposed sol=
ution (other than tearing it out and repairing the piece) is to put some dy=
e in finish material and spray on very light coats. It is a water soluble d=
ye and lacquer. Would it be better to use shellac as a carrier for the patc=
h dye, or just put it in the lacquer and spray light coats. I saw Robert's =
approach to spraying the dye in a "powder" form and then finish coat over i=
t. Sounds tricky, but anything is better than redoing this part of the cabi=
net. Len
I have used transtint to tone lacquer lots of times. I would suggest settin=
g it many shades lighter and build to the color you need with multiple coat=
s. Worth a try before you do a full blown repair. Won't be easy but can be =
done.
On Thursday, March 7, 2013 3:03:27 PM UTC-6, Len wrote:
> I have sprayed dye on a set of kitchen cabinets and followed it with lacq=
uer. On one cabinet I did some "patch work" with a filler that says it wil=
l take stain. No such luck. The dye took everywhere except where the fill=
er was used. Unfortunately, it is a "right in your face" spot. =20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> My proposed solution (other than tearing it out and repairing the pi=
ece) is to put some dye in finish material and spray on very light coats. =
It is a water soluble dye and lacquer. Would it be better to use shellac a=
s a carrier for the patch dye, or just put it in the lacquer and spray ligh=
t coats. I saw Robert's approach to spraying the dye in a "powder" form and=
then finish coat over it. Sounds tricky, but anything is better than redo=
ing this part of the cabinet.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Len
Please understand that there is no way to get an accurate diagnosis
for a problem of this type unless you are standing there in person,
looking at this problem. So all advice you get here I would consider
thoughtful speculation, especially anything I say.
With that in mind, onward. You didn't say what kind of wood you were
finishing, nor what your prep was up to top coat. I think it would be
helpful if you would tell us the type of wood, and all steps from bare
wood to top coat that you followed.
In these situations, it may be almost impossible to fix, but there are
different ideas that may present a workable solution.
Robert
On Thu, 7 Mar 2013 13:03:27 -0800 (PST), Len <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have sprayed dye on a set of kitchen cabinets and followed it with lacquer.
> On one cabinet I did some "patch work" with a filler that says it will take stain.
> No such luck. The dye took everywhere except where the filler was used.
> Unfortunately, it is a "right in your face" spot.
>
> My proposed solution (other than tearing it out and repairing the piece) is
> to put some dye in finish material and spray on very light coats.
> It is a water soluble dye and lacquer. Would it be better to use shellac
> as a carrier for the patch dye, or just put it in the lacquer and spray
> light coats. I saw Robert's approach to spraying the dye in a "powder"
> form and then finish coat over it. Sounds tricky, but anything is better
> than redoing this part of the cabinet.
>
>Len
You are going to practice this on scrap, right?
The first thing I'd try on the scrap is to use a washcoat of blonde
dewaxed shellac to provide a seal over the dyed wood / filler. You can
try all the different solutions suggested in this thread. I'd opt for
trying tinting with more shellac simply because the fumes from lacquer
make me feel worse than the fumes from alcohol, and I suspect coming
up with the right formula may take a number of attempts.
Len wrote:
> On Thursday, March 7, 2013 3:03:27 PM UTC-6, Len wrote:
>> I have sprayed dye on a set of kitchen cabinets and followed it with
>> lacquer. On one cabinet I did some "patch work" with a filler that
>> says it will take stain. No such luck. The dye took everywhere
>> except where the filler was used. Unfortunately, it is a "right in
>> your face" spot.
>>
>>
>>
>> My proposed solution (other than tearing it out and repairing
>> the piece) is to put some dye in finish material and spray on very
>> light coats. It is a water soluble dye and lacquer. Would it be
>> better to use shellac as a carrier for the patch dye, or just put it
>> in the lacquer and spray light coats. I saw Robert's approach to
>> spraying the dye in a "powder" form and then finish coat over it.
>> Sounds tricky, but anything is better than redoing this part of the
>> cabinet.
>>
I would probably try an application with an artist's brush or something
similar, to see how the dye is going to take on the area. The problem with
fillers - regardless of what they say on the container is that they do not
absorb finishes like wood. You will likely require something that is more
like the way paint behaves, and lies on top of the area, and then a blending
technique to the surrounding areas.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]