This involves a wood holder, so relax. <grin>
On a number of occasions, I made coasters of either slate or
marble, complete with a ground in recess for the drink and a cork
backing. Over the years, I'd guess I made around 500-600 of them
in batches of different sizes, mostly to give away in sets. The
majority of the sets were 8 coasters, wrapped with a tape, and
handed out to house guests, at Christmas, to friends of the kids
or relatives.
They always began as slate or marble 12" tiles, which I cut on my
diamond wet saw to 3-7/8" squares. Cut, rinsed and left to dry, I
could proceed at my leisure, using jigs I'd built and improved
upon over the years.
The first step was to grind in the recess. Since the tiles were
about 1/4" thick- regardless of material- I kept the recess to
around 1/16". It was mostly for looks. The grinder was fashioned
from a 2" thick block of cherry, which I drilled and fitted with a
3/8" carriage bolt, recessed, that permitted me to chuck it in the
drill press. Since the head was recessed, the hole was filled in
with Bondo filler and the face sanded smooth. The abrasive was 40
grit floor sanding paper, which was epoxied on using 10 minute
epoxy. Since the epoxy softens with heat, it was necessary
(thanks to a fellow here in rww long ago) to temper it through use
and letting it cool. The first time it was used, it'd begin to
soften after the second coaster. I'd then let it air cool and go
at it again. The second time might take 2-3 coasters before it'd
again soften. This was repeated until the stuff never softened-
about 5-8 go-rounds.
A jig held the coasters square and aligned under the drill press.
In addition, there were holes and a "wall" all around the coaster
so that my shop vac could collect the dust. It worked swell. I'd
press the turning disk and abrasive against the coaster, let it
grind for about 20 seconds, then back off to clear any trapped
dust. Each coaster took about 3 of these cycles to develop the
circular, ground-in, depression from the grinder.
Using a sheet of 1/8" automotive cork, I laid it out on my
workbench and applied contact cement. Each coaster also got a
coat of contact cement on its back, and was then applied to the
cork sheet and weighed down. When dry, I cut each coaster free
from the sheet.
The final step was trimming the cork and beveling the edges of the
coasters- top and bottom. This was done with a jig on my table
sander. The jig had a Formica base and was just as wide as a
coaster. The base was at a 45 degree angle to the belt, and there
was a stop that could be adjusted to limit the "forward" motion of
the coaster, giving a uniform depth of the bevel. The belt was
just a 120grit that had gotten a bit old. Surprisingly, a belt
would do 100-150 coasters at a time. The beveled bottoms,
including the cork really looked professional and the overall look
and feel of the slate or marble coasters was terrific.
Next: making the holder for the coasters.
--
Nonny
You cannot make a stupid kid smart by
handing him a diploma. Schools need standards
to measure the amount of education actually
absorbed by children. Don't sacrifice the smart
kids to make the dumb ones feel good about themselves.
On Nov 5, 7:45=A0pm, "Nonny" <[email protected]> wrote:
> This involves a wood holder, so relax. <grin>
>
> On a number of occasions, I made coasters of either slate or
> marble, complete with a ground in recess for the drink and a cork
> backing. =A0Over the years, I'd guess I made around 500-600 of them
> in batches of different sizes, mostly to give away in sets. =A0The
> majority of the sets were 8 coasters, wrapped with a tape, and
> handed out to house guests, at Christmas, to friends of the kids
> or relatives.
>
> They always began as slate or marble 12" tiles, which I cut on my
> diamond wet saw to 3-7/8" squares. =A0Cut, rinsed and left to dry, I
> could proceed at my leisure, using jigs I'd built and improved
> upon over the years.
>
> The first step was to grind in the recess. =A0Since the tiles were
> about 1/4" thick- regardless of material- I kept the recess to
> around 1/16". =A0It was mostly for looks. =A0The grinder was fashioned
> from a 2" thick block of cherry, which I drilled and fitted with a
> 3/8" carriage bolt, recessed, that permitted me to chuck it in the
> drill press. =A0Since the head was recessed, the hole was filled in
> with Bondo filler and the face sanded smooth. =A0The abrasive was 40
> grit floor sanding paper, which was epoxied on using 10 minute
> epoxy. =A0Since the epoxy softens with heat, it was necessary
> (thanks to a fellow here in rww long ago) to temper it through use
> and letting it cool. =A0The first time it was used, it'd begin to
> soften after the second coaster. =A0I'd then let it air cool and go
> at it again. =A0The second time might take 2-3 coasters before it'd
> again soften. =A0This was repeated until the stuff never softened-
> about 5-8 go-rounds.
>
> A jig held the coasters square and aligned under the drill press.
> In addition, there were holes and a "wall" all around the coaster
> so that my shop vac could collect the dust. =A0It worked swell. =A0I'd
> press the turning disk and abrasive against the coaster, let it
> grind for about 20 seconds, then back off to clear any trapped
> dust. =A0Each coaster took about 3 of these cycles to develop the
> circular, ground-in, depression from the grinder.
>
> Using a sheet of 1/8" automotive cork, I laid it out on my
> workbench and applied contact cement. =A0Each coaster also got a
> coat of contact cement on its back, and was then applied to the
> cork sheet and weighed down. =A0When dry, I cut each coaster free
> from the sheet.
>
> The final step was trimming the cork and beveling the edges of the
> coasters- top and bottom. =A0This was done with a jig on my table
> sander. =A0The jig had a Formica base and was just as wide as a
> coaster. =A0The base was at a 45 degree angle to the belt, and there
> was a stop that could be adjusted to limit the "forward" motion of
> the coaster, giving a uniform depth of the bevel. =A0The belt was
> just a 120grit that had gotten a bit old. =A0Surprisingly, a belt
> would do 100-150 coasters at a time. =A0The beveled bottoms,
> including the cork really looked professional and the overall look
> and feel of the slate or marble coasters was terrific.
>
> Next: =A0making the holder for the coasters.
>
Slate is a wonderful natural material. I bought an old-style slate
black-board from a recycler and had it cut to size for a client of
mine who wanted a place to roll out her pie dough. Flat, cool and a
nice grey color. That section of her island was dropped to 28" height
to make rolling dough a bit more ergonomic.
The rest of the slab, I framed and hung on her wall for use as a
message board. I love stone. Tomorrow I am going to meet The
Stoneman.
( www.stoneman.ca )
He has a huge selection of soap stone...and that stuff machines
beautifully on a CNC.
Automotive cork, eh? Nice tip. Thank you for that.
r
Try oiling the soap stone
On Nov 5, 8:24=A0pm, basilisk <[email protected]> wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
> > On Nov 5, 7:45=A0pm, "Nonny" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> This involves a wood holder, so relax. <grin>
>
> >> On a number of occasions, I made coasters of either slate or
> >> marble, complete with a ground in recess for the drink and a cork
> >> backing. =A0Over the years, I'd guess I made around 500-600 of them
> >> in batches of different sizes, mostly to give away in sets. =A0The
> >> majority of the sets were 8 coasters, wrapped with a tape, and
> >> handed out to house guests, at Christmas, to friends of the kids
> >> or relatives.
>
> >> They always began as slate or marble 12" tiles, which I cut on my
> >> diamond wet saw to 3-7/8" squares. =A0Cut, rinsed and left to dry, I
> >> could proceed at my leisure, using jigs I'd built and improved
> >> upon over the years.
>
> >> The first step was to grind in the recess. =A0Since the tiles were
> >> about 1/4" thick- regardless of material- I kept the recess to
> >> around 1/16". =A0It was mostly for looks. =A0The grinder was fashioned
> >> from a 2" thick block of cherry, which I drilled and fitted with a
> >> 3/8" carriage bolt, recessed, that permitted me to chuck it in the
> >> drill press. =A0Since the head was recessed, the hole was filled in
> >> with Bondo filler and the face sanded smooth. =A0The abrasive was 40
> >> grit floor sanding paper, which was epoxied on using 10 minute
> >> epoxy. =A0Since the epoxy softens with heat, it was necessary
> >> (thanks to a fellow here in rww long ago) to temper it through use
> >> and letting it cool. =A0The first time it was used, it'd begin to
> >> soften after the second coaster. =A0I'd then let it air cool and go
> >> at it again. =A0The second time might take 2-3 coasters before it'd
> >> again soften. =A0This was repeated until the stuff never softened-
> >> about 5-8 go-rounds.
>
> >> A jig held the coasters square and aligned under the drill press.
> >> In addition, there were holes and a "wall" all around the coaster
> >> so that my shop vac could collect the dust. =A0It worked swell. =A0I'd
> >> press the turning disk and abrasive against the coaster, let it
> >> grind for about 20 seconds, then back off to clear any trapped
> >> dust. =A0Each coaster took about 3 of these cycles to develop the
> >> circular, ground-in, depression from the grinder.
>
> >> Using a sheet of 1/8" automotive cork, I laid it out on my
> >> workbench and applied contact cement. =A0Each coaster also got a
> >> coat of contact cement on its back, and was then applied to the
> >> cork sheet and weighed down. =A0When dry, I cut each coaster free
> >> from the sheet.
>
> >> The final step was trimming the cork and beveling the edges of the
> >> coasters- top and bottom. =A0This was done with a jig on my table
> >> sander. =A0The jig had a Formica base and was just as wide as a
> >> coaster. =A0The base was at a 45 degree angle to the belt, and there
> >> was a stop that could be adjusted to limit the "forward" motion of
> >> the coaster, giving a uniform depth of the bevel. =A0The belt was
> >> just a 120grit that had gotten a bit old. =A0Surprisingly, a belt
> >> would do 100-150 coasters at a time. =A0The beveled bottoms,
> >> including the cork really looked professional and the overall look
> >> and feel of the slate or marble coasters was terrific.
>
> >> Next: =A0making the holder for the coasters.
>
> > Slate is a wonderful natural material. I bought an old-style slate
> > black-board from a recycler and had it cut to size for a client of
> > mine who wanted a place to roll out her pie dough. Flat, cool and a
> > nice grey color. That section of her island was dropped to 28"
> > height to make rolling dough a bit more ergonomic.
> > The rest of the slab, I framed and hung on her wall for use as a
> > message board. I love stone. Tomorrow I am going to meet The
> > Stoneman.
> > (www.stoneman.ca)
> > He has a huge selection of soap stone...and that stuff machines
> > beautifully on a CNC.
>
> > Automotive cork, eh? Nice tip. Thank you for that.
>
> > r
>
> That is beautiful stuff, I have some New England soapstone,
> it is plain, gray, and doesn't have any depth to it.
>
> basilisk
> --http://www.welshpembrokecorgis.comhttp://www.stonebasilisk.com- Hide qu=
oted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
"Nonny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This involves a wood holder, so relax. <grin>
>
> On a number of occasions, I made coasters of either slate or marble,
> complete with a ground in recess for the drink and a cork backing. Over
> the years, I'd guess I made around 500-600 of them in batches of different
> sizes, mostly to give away in sets. The majority of the sets were 8
> coasters, wrapped with a tape, and handed out to house guests, at
> Christmas, to friends of the kids or relatives.
>
> They always began as slate or marble 12" tiles, which I cut on my diamond
> wet saw to 3-7/8" squares. Cut, rinsed and left to dry, I could proceed
> at my leisure, using jigs I'd built and improved upon over the years.
So how well does that stone soak up condensation from a cold drink?
On Thu, 5 Nov 2009 16:45:17 -0800, "Nonny" <[email protected]> wrote:
>On a number of occasions, I made coasters of either slate or
>marble, complete with a ground in recess for the drink and a cork
>backing. Over the years, I'd guess I made around 500-600 of them
>in batches of different sizes, mostly to give away in sets.
Some pictures posted to ABPW please?
Robatoy wrote:
> On Nov 5, 7:45Â pm, "Nonny" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> This involves a wood holder, so relax. <grin>
>>
>> On a number of occasions, I made coasters of either slate or
>> marble, complete with a ground in recess for the drink and a cork
>> backing. Â Over the years, I'd guess I made around 500-600 of them
>> in batches of different sizes, mostly to give away in sets. Â The
>> majority of the sets were 8 coasters, wrapped with a tape, and
>> handed out to house guests, at Christmas, to friends of the kids
>> or relatives.
>>
>> They always began as slate or marble 12" tiles, which I cut on my
>> diamond wet saw to 3-7/8" squares. Â Cut, rinsed and left to dry, I
>> could proceed at my leisure, using jigs I'd built and improved
>> upon over the years.
>>
>> The first step was to grind in the recess. Â Since the tiles were
>> about 1/4" thick- regardless of material- I kept the recess to
>> around 1/16". Â It was mostly for looks. Â The grinder was fashioned
>> from a 2" thick block of cherry, which I drilled and fitted with a
>> 3/8" carriage bolt, recessed, that permitted me to chuck it in the
>> drill press. Â Since the head was recessed, the hole was filled in
>> with Bondo filler and the face sanded smooth. Â The abrasive was 40
>> grit floor sanding paper, which was epoxied on using 10 minute
>> epoxy. Â Since the epoxy softens with heat, it was necessary
>> (thanks to a fellow here in rww long ago) to temper it through use
>> and letting it cool. Â The first time it was used, it'd begin to
>> soften after the second coaster. Â I'd then let it air cool and go
>> at it again. Â The second time might take 2-3 coasters before it'd
>> again soften. Â This was repeated until the stuff never softened-
>> about 5-8 go-rounds.
>>
>> A jig held the coasters square and aligned under the drill press.
>> In addition, there were holes and a "wall" all around the coaster
>> so that my shop vac could collect the dust. Â It worked swell. Â I'd
>> press the turning disk and abrasive against the coaster, let it
>> grind for about 20 seconds, then back off to clear any trapped
>> dust. Â Each coaster took about 3 of these cycles to develop the
>> circular, ground-in, depression from the grinder.
>>
>> Using a sheet of 1/8" automotive cork, I laid it out on my
>> workbench and applied contact cement. Â Each coaster also got a
>> coat of contact cement on its back, and was then applied to the
>> cork sheet and weighed down. Â When dry, I cut each coaster free
>> from the sheet.
>>
>> The final step was trimming the cork and beveling the edges of the
>> coasters- top and bottom. Â This was done with a jig on my table
>> sander. Â The jig had a Formica base and was just as wide as a
>> coaster. Â The base was at a 45 degree angle to the belt, and there
>> was a stop that could be adjusted to limit the "forward" motion of
>> the coaster, giving a uniform depth of the bevel. Â The belt was
>> just a 120grit that had gotten a bit old. Â Surprisingly, a belt
>> would do 100-150 coasters at a time. Â The beveled bottoms,
>> including the cork really looked professional and the overall look
>> and feel of the slate or marble coasters was terrific.
>>
>> Next: Â making the holder for the coasters.
>>
>
> Slate is a wonderful natural material. I bought an old-style slate
> black-board from a recycler and had it cut to size for a client of
> mine who wanted a place to roll out her pie dough. Flat, cool and a
> nice grey color. That section of her island was dropped to 28"
> height to make rolling dough a bit more ergonomic.
> The rest of the slab, I framed and hung on her wall for use as a
> message board. I love stone. Tomorrow I am going to meet The
> Stoneman.
> ( www.stoneman.ca )
> He has a huge selection of soap stone...and that stuff machines
> beautifully on a CNC.
>
> Automotive cork, eh? Nice tip. Thank you for that.
>
> r
That is beautiful stuff, I have some New England soapstone,
it is plain, gray, and doesn't have any depth to it.
basilisk
--
http://www.welshpembrokecorgis.com
http://www.stonebasilisk.com
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4e200fbd-1118-47e1-87bd-40dfa0a37dfb@x25g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
Try oiling the soap stone
<snip>
It does look better oiled, it originally came from a
laboratory at the university of Alabama and I suspect it
wasn't selected for appearance.
basilisk