Hello all. I'm working on an arbor to "frame" a set of French doors on
the front of our house. It is a simple design of Craftsman/Asian
influence. I've worked with Ipe before on an outdoor bench and table.
At local lumberyard I can get nominal 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 boards. I've
poured two footings using sonotubes and have sunk J-bolts for 4 x 4
Simpson brackets for the two posts. My idea is to use either pressure
treated or redwood milled to 3" x 3" and then wrap 1/4" ipe edge
mitered on top, Gorilla glued and brad nailed. My question is for the
"base" lumber, would it better to use PT or redwood. I could use my
thickness planer to mill a 4x4 piece of redwood to 3x3. Or I could rip
redwood 2x4 to 3" wide and laminate two together. Or I could rip PT
2x4 to 3" and laminate them to make a dimensional 3x3. After the post
situation is solved I've got the rest of the design and construction
figured out. I'm going to use Penofin oil to "seal" the ipe. TIA for
your help.
On 6/9/2009 11:18 AM SonomaProducts.com spake thus:
> Ah yes, I did some testing of many adhesives a few years back for an
> extreme application, wood to stone, and now I always keep a tube of
> the winner, liquid nails, around for those odd jobs where I need a
> quick permenant fix.
Please don't top post. You'll notice hardly anyone here does.
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
On 6/9/2009 11:47 AM Tom Watson spake thus:
> piss off
Ah, yes, the typically helpful, reasoned response from a stubborn
top-poster.
Right back atcha.
> On Tue, 09 Jun 2009 11:37:37 -0700, David Nebenzahl
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On 6/9/2009 11:18 AM SonomaProducts.com spake thus:
>>
>>> Ah yes, I did some testing of many adhesives a few years back for an
>>> extreme application, wood to stone, and now I always keep a tube of
>>> the winner, liquid nails, around for those odd jobs where I need a
>>> quick permenant fix.
>>
>>Please don't top post. You'll notice hardly anyone here does.
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
On Tue, 9 Jun 2009 11:10:21 -0700 (PDT), ed_h <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Jun 9, 12:31 pm, Tom Watson <[email protected]> wrote:
>> It is not possible to glue ipe.
>>
>
>It's a good thing I didn't know that when I did quite a bit of ipe
>gluing on a deck five or six years ago.
>
>The wood was sold as "Ipe" from Ipe Depot. It was glued with Titebond
>II immediately after jointing. I may have wiped some of it with
>solvent, but I don't think I was consistent on it. None of the glue
>joints are structural, but are on horizontal, flat deck boards fully
>exposed to midwest weather. Five or so years later, the glue line on
>some joints is visible, but all joints still appear to be sound.
>
>I also wrapped the edge of a round part of the deck with 1/4-inch ipe,
>glued with construction adhesive. It, too, appears to be holding up
>well.
>
>We'll see what the next five years bring.
I'm glad you've had a good experience with it.
I suspect that, as it says in a couple of the posts on the WoodWeb
thread, that the species you are getting in the midwest are different
than what we are getting locally.
What we get is extremely oily and the oil bleeds to the surface soon
after it is worked or wiped with denatured alcohol or acetone.
We've tested isocyanurates, various epoxies, West System, TiteBond
III, etc. We've tried the Timesaver with 60 and 80 grit and we wiped
with both denatured alcohol and acetone. We were unable to get a bond
that we could trust for gluing up for width or thickness.
The last job we did was 4000 bd ft for a roof top screening job in
Manhattan and we just decided that we couldn't afford the exposure of
gluing up. So we paid beaucoup bucks to get the stuff in thicknesses
and widths that we could use without gluing up.
I like Ipe and it gets used a lot in city work because it has the same
fire rating as concrete and steel. It's also damned near as hard and
hard on tooling.
Regards,
Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/
Interesting problem. I was going to suggest West System T88 epoxy
instead of Gorilla glue because every test I have ever seen puts
Gorilla at the bottom of the list of wood glues. If Tom is correct
that ipe won't glue then this is a tough one.
I think whatever you do for internal post is OK, RW or PT, just
minimize possibility of standing water at the base.
I think maybe epoxy and finish nails gunned into the post and to seal
the edge miters. Another option would be to add some exposed fastners.
Maybe square headed, hand forged lags like these http://www.blackbearforge.=
com/fasteners.htm.
Not as clean of a look but can work well with the asian\craftsman
look. I envision two rows up each face at maybe 18" vert spacing.
Another acceptable concept, instead of miters which can be hard to
close in a wrap like this is to have one set of faces flush and the
other set overhang by 1/4" or so in sort of an H pattern in cross
section.
On Jun 9, 10:08=A0am, dale martin <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hello all. I'm working on an arbor to "frame" a set of French doors on
> the front of our house. It is a simple design of Craftsman/Asian
> influence. I've worked with Ipe before on an outdoor bench and table.
> At local lumberyard I can get nominal 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 boards. I've
> poured two footings using sonotubes and have sunk J-bolts for 4 x 4
> Simpson brackets for the two posts. My idea is to use either pressure
> treated or redwood milled to 3" x 3" and then wrap 1/4" ipe edge
> mitered on top, Gorilla glued and brad nailed. My question is for the
> "base" lumber, would it better to use PT or redwood. I could use my
> thickness planer to mill a 4x4 piece of redwood to 3x3. Or I could rip
> redwood 2x4 to 3" wide and laminate two together. Or I could rip PT
> 2x4 to 3" and laminate them to make a dimensional 3x3. After the post
> situation is solved I've got the rest of the design and construction
> figured out. I'm going to use Penofin oil to "seal" the ipe. TIA for
> your help.
Please don't play net nanny, contribute or keep quiet.
"David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 6/9/2009 11:18 AM SonomaProducts.com spake thus:
>
>> Ah yes, I did some testing of many adhesives a few years back for an
>> extreme application, wood to stone, and now I always keep a tube of
>> the winner, liquid nails, around for those odd jobs where I need a
>> quick permenant fix.
>
> Please don't top post. You'll notice hardly anyone here does.
>
>
> --
> Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
I totally agree if it is a single answer response.
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:f1e81ddf-961b-4da6-ae6f-930f3dfa8901@n19g2000vba.googlegroups.com...
Maybe its just the reader that I use but I hate it when folks don't
top post. I'd rather read than scroll. I'd rather write than scroll.
I suppose I am blockable if you are so set against it.
No offense taken nor intended, just exercising the same freedom you
exercise to complain.
On Jun 9, 11:37 am, David Nebenzahl <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 6/9/2009 11:18 AM SonomaProducts.com spake thus:
>
> > Ah yes, I did some testing of many adhesives a few years back for an
> > extreme application, wood to stone, and now I always keep a tube of
> > the winner, liquid nails, around for those odd jobs where I need a
> > quick permenant fix.
>
> Please don't top post. You'll notice hardly anyone here does.
>
> --
> Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:a38c5c59-7b2d-4ee5-9c99-ecd55dfd2994@q37g2000vbi.googlegroups.com...
> Untreated Ipe is reported to have a 50 year out door life expectancy, why
> not use it under itself?
I would use dimensional ipe of 3 1/2" thickness for the 4x4 posts if
it was available locally and not cost prohibitive. Since it's not then
I'm trying to get the look of the ipe using what's available which is
3/4" thick ipe and PT or
redwood.
Well there is that. LOL.
Have you considered galvanized chain link fence terminal posts and
cover them with Ipe? Those are relatively cheap, don't warp, and don't
rot.
"Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I'm glad you've had a good experience with it.
>
> I suspect that, as it says in a couple of the posts on the WoodWeb
> thread, that the species you are getting in the midwest are different
> than what we are getting locally.
>
> What we get is extremely oily and the oil bleeds to the surface soon
> after it is worked or wiped with denatured alcohol or acetone.
>
> We've tested isocyanurates, various epoxies, West System, TiteBond
> III, etc. We've tried the Timesaver with 60 and 80 grit and we wiped
> with both denatured alcohol and acetone. We were unable to get a bond
> that we could trust for gluing up for width or thickness.
I have worked with Ipe quite a bit and find that the glue that "looks like"
and "screws like" a "Pocket Hole Screw" works pretty good. :~)
"dale martin" wrote:
<snip>
>..... Gorilla glued and brad nailed.
<snip>
Most over priced and under peckered adhesive you could choose IMHO.
You have a much better choice, thickened epoxy.
http://www.systemthree.com/p_st_quikfair.asp
Is one product. You are paying for convience; however, System 3 makes
good stuff.
Just went over this with Tom Watson.
IPE is tough to bond; however, it is doable.
Rough up the IPE with some 40-60 grit on a ROS, then coat with
laminating epoxy penetrating roughened surface.
Wait a few minutes, then apply fairing putty.
Wait 48 hours before trying to stress joint.
The secret is to get the laminating epoxy to lock into the IPE fibers,
then have the fairing putty bond to the laminating resin.
BTW, strictly personal preference, but would not use pressure treated
lumber in this application, at least not the crap I've seen.
Have fun.
Lew
On Jun 10, 6:43=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "dale martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:09939bd8-a6b9-4749-8dfd-7510c293bacb@l28g2000vba.googlegroups.com...
>
> > Hello all. I'm working on an arbor to "frame" a set of French doors on
> > the front of our house. It is a simple design of Craftsman/Asian
> > influence. I've worked with Ipe before on an outdoor bench and table.
> > At local lumberyard I can get nominal 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 boards. I've
> > poured two footings using sonotubes and have sunk J-bolts for 4 x 4
> > Simpson brackets for the two posts. My idea is to use either pressure
> > treated or redwood milled to 3" x 3" and then wrap 1/4" ipe edge
> > mitered on top, Gorilla glued and brad nailed. My question is for the
> > "base" lumber, would it better to use PT or redwood. I could use my
> > thickness planer to mill a 4x4 piece of redwood to 3x3. Or I could rip
> > redwood 2x4 to 3" wide and laminate two together. Or I could rip PT
> > 2x4 to 3" and laminate them to make a dimensional 3x3. After the post
> > situation is solved I've got the rest of the design and construction
> > figured out. I'm going to use Penofin oil to "seal" the ipe. TIA for
> > your help.
>
> Untreated Ipe is reported to have a 50 year out door life expectancy, why
> not use it under itself?
I would use dimensional ipe of 3 1/2" thickness for the 4x4 posts if
it was available locally and not cost prohibitive. Since it's not then
I'm trying to get the look of the ipe using what's available which is
3/4" thick ipe and PT or
redwood.
I read the group from a tree view and I can see who responded to what
and in what order so I don't need all the context, inline, over and
over again. I guess if you are reading from email or some other method
it just makes sense. (Top posted).
On Jun 9, 3:12=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> > Maybe its just the reader that I use but I hate it when folks don't
> > top post. I'd rather read than scroll. I'd rather write than scroll.
>
> Personally, I don't care one way or the other with the following caveat..=
.
>
> It makes sense to bottom post, in order to see everything in order.
> However, I get so sick of people not editing their posts. =A0You have
> someone who replies to *and quotes* an entire "six page" post, only
> to say, "me, too!"
>
> In the case of this (my) post, I deleted the repeat crap that everyone's
> read, anyway (if they're following) and left only the pertinent info to
> which I am referring. =A0If they're new to the thread, they can go and
> read all the other posts, like everyone else did.
>
> I have found that most "non-editing, six page quoters" are using a
> web-based repeater forum like google-groups or any of a dozen others.
> And it seems they can't figure out how to delete and quote properly
> using the web-based thingie.
>
> OR, people are on a regular newsreader and are just too fricken
> lazy and inconsiderate to edit their posts.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Jun 9, 11:37=A0am, David Nebenzahl <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 6/9/2009 11:18 AM SonomaProducts.com spake thus:
>
> > Ah yes, I did some testing of many adhesives a few years back for an
> > extreme application, wood to stone, and now I always keep a tube of
> > the winner, liquid nails, around for those odd jobs where I need a
> > quick permenant fix.
>
> Please don't top post. You'll notice hardly anyone here does.
>
> --
> Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
Why not top post? I was thinking some of those pyramid shaped copper
caps. I think they would look good against the ipe.
On Jun 9, 12:31=A0pm, Tom Watson <[email protected]> wrote:
> It is not possible to glue ipe.
>
It's a good thing I didn't know that when I did quite a bit of ipe
gluing on a deck five or six years ago.
The wood was sold as "Ipe" from Ipe Depot. It was glued with Titebond
II immediately after jointing. I may have wiped some of it with
solvent, but I don't think I was consistent on it. None of the glue
joints are structural, but are on horizontal, flat deck boards fully
exposed to midwest weather. Five or so years later, the glue line on
some joints is visible, but all joints still appear to be sound.
I also wrapped the edge of a round part of the deck with 1/4-inch ipe,
glued with construction adhesive. It, too, appears to be holding up
well.
We'll see what the next five years bring.
David Nebenzahl <[email protected]> wrote:
>Please don't top post. You'll notice hardly anyone here does.
I agree. But you've really got to be wet behind the ears if you think
this request will accomplish anything.
Or badly in need of a life if you know this won't accomplish anything
but feel compelled to try.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Maybe its just the reader that I use but I hate it when folks don't
top post. I'd rather read than scroll. I'd rather write than scroll.
I suppose I am blockable if you are so set against it.
No offense taken nor intended, just exercising the same freedom you
exercise to complain.
On Jun 9, 11:37=A0am, David Nebenzahl <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 6/9/2009 11:18 AM SonomaProducts.com spake thus:
>
> > Ah yes, I did some testing of many adhesives a few years back for an
> > extreme application, wood to stone, and now I always keep a tube of
> > the winner, liquid nails, around for those odd jobs where I need a
> > quick permenant fix.
>
> Please don't top post. You'll notice hardly anyone here does.
>
> --
> Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
Ah yes, I did some testing of many adhesives a few years back for an
extreme application, wood to stone, and now I always keep a tube of
the winner, liquid nails, around for those odd jobs where I need a
quick permenant fix.
On Jun 9, 11:10=A0am, ed_h <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jun 9, 12:31=A0pm, Tom Watson <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > It is not possible to glue ipe.
>
> It's a good thing I didn't know that when I did quite a bit of ipe
> gluing on a deck five or six years ago.
>
> The wood was sold as "Ipe" from Ipe Depot. =A0It was glued with Titebond
> II immediately after jointing. =A0I may have wiped some of it with
> solvent, but I don't think I was consistent on it. =A0None of the glue
> joints are structural, but are on horizontal, flat deck boards fully
> exposed to midwest weather. =A0Five or so years later, the glue line on
> some joints is visible, but all joints still appear to be sound.
>
> I also wrapped the edge of a round part of the deck with 1/4-inch ipe,
> glued with construction adhesive. =A0It, too, appears to be holding up
> well.
>
> We'll see what the next five years bring.
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Maybe its just the reader that I use but I hate it when folks don't
> top post. I'd rather read than scroll. I'd rather write than scroll.
>
Personally, I don't care one way or the other with the following caveat...
It makes sense to bottom post, in order to see everything in order.
However, I get so sick of people not editing their posts. You have
someone who replies to *and quotes* an entire "six page" post, only
to say, "me, too!"
In the case of this (my) post, I deleted the repeat crap that everyone's
read, anyway (if they're following) and left only the pertinent info to
which I am referring. If they're new to the thread, they can go and
read all the other posts, like everyone else did.
I have found that most "non-editing, six page quoters" are using a
web-based repeater forum like google-groups or any of a dozen others.
And it seems they can't figure out how to delete and quote properly
using the web-based thingie.
OR, people are on a regular newsreader and are just too fricken
lazy and inconsiderate to edit their posts.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> I read the group from a tree view and I can see who responded to what
I can read in whatever fashion I choose.
> and in what order so I don't need all the context, inline, over and
My email application can configure the posts, in threads or by date.
> over again. I guess if you are reading from email or some other method
I prefer to read them by date, so the recent ones just show up on top.
> it just makes sense. (Top posted).
>
(middle posted)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Around here (east coast mid-Atlantic USA) PT costs a fraction of what
redwood does, if you can even find any. Since it's going to be hidden
by the overlay, I'd go with the PT on cost basis alone. Plus, I have
no experience with redwood in the ground, but IME PT posts far
outlast cedar. (Note my experience based on the old CCA PT, not
the newer stuff)
--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
Oh really? :)
In article <[email protected]>,
David Nebenzahl <[email protected]> wrote:
<<...snipped...>>
>Please don't top post. You'll notice hardly anyone here does.
--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
[email protected] wrote:
>Why not top post? I was thinking some of those pyramid shaped copper
>caps. I think they would look good against the ipe.
ROTFLMAO!
Great rejoinder!
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
It is not possible to glue ipe.
On Tue, 9 Jun 2009 10:08:30 -0700 (PDT), dale martin
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hello all. I'm working on an arbor to "frame" a set of French doors on
>the front of our house. It is a simple design of Craftsman/Asian
>influence. I've worked with Ipe before on an outdoor bench and table.
>At local lumberyard I can get nominal 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 boards. I've
>poured two footings using sonotubes and have sunk J-bolts for 4 x 4
>Simpson brackets for the two posts. My idea is to use either pressure
>treated or redwood milled to 3" x 3" and then wrap 1/4" ipe edge
>mitered on top, Gorilla glued and brad nailed. My question is for the
>"base" lumber, would it better to use PT or redwood. I could use my
>thickness planer to mill a 4x4 piece of redwood to 3x3. Or I could rip
>redwood 2x4 to 3" wide and laminate two together. Or I could rip PT
>2x4 to 3" and laminate them to make a dimensional 3x3. After the post
>situation is solved I've got the rest of the design and construction
>figured out. I'm going to use Penofin oil to "seal" the ipe. TIA for
>your help.
Regards,
Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/
"dale martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:09939bd8-a6b9-4749-8dfd-7510c293bacb@l28g2000vba.googlegroups.com...
> Hello all. I'm working on an arbor to "frame" a set of French doors on
> the front of our house. It is a simple design of Craftsman/Asian
> influence. I've worked with Ipe before on an outdoor bench and table.
> At local lumberyard I can get nominal 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 boards. I've
> poured two footings using sonotubes and have sunk J-bolts for 4 x 4
> Simpson brackets for the two posts. My idea is to use either pressure
> treated or redwood milled to 3" x 3" and then wrap 1/4" ipe edge
> mitered on top, Gorilla glued and brad nailed. My question is for the
> "base" lumber, would it better to use PT or redwood. I could use my
> thickness planer to mill a 4x4 piece of redwood to 3x3. Or I could rip
> redwood 2x4 to 3" wide and laminate two together. Or I could rip PT
> 2x4 to 3" and laminate them to make a dimensional 3x3. After the post
> situation is solved I've got the rest of the design and construction
> figured out. I'm going to use Penofin oil to "seal" the ipe. TIA for
> your help.
Untreated Ipe is reported to have a 50 year out door life expectancy, why
not use it under itself?
[email protected] wrote:
>On Jun 10, 6:43 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "dale martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:09939bd8-a6b9-4749-8dfd-7510c293bacb@l28g2000vba.googlegroups.com...
>>
>> > Hello all. I'm working on an arbor to "frame" a set of French doors on
>> > the front of our house. It is a simple design of Craftsman/Asian
>> > influence. I've worked with Ipe before on an outdoor bench and table.
>> > At local lumberyard I can get nominal 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 boards. I've
>> > poured two footings using sonotubes and have sunk J-bolts for 4 x 4
>> > Simpson brackets for the two posts. My idea is to use either pressure
>> > treated or redwood milled to 3" x 3" and then wrap 1/4" ipe edge
>> > mitered on top, Gorilla glued and brad nailed. My question is for the
>> > "base" lumber, would it better to use PT or redwood. I could use my
>> > thickness planer to mill a 4x4 piece of redwood to 3x3. Or I could rip
>> > redwood 2x4 to 3" wide and laminate two together. Or I could rip PT
>> > 2x4 to 3" and laminate them to make a dimensional 3x3. After the post
>> > situation is solved I've got the rest of the design and construction
>> > figured out. I'm going to use Penofin oil to "seal" the ipe. TIA for
>> > your help.
>>
>> Untreated Ipe is reported to have a 50 year out door life expectancy, why
>> not use it under itself?
>
>I would use dimensional ipe of 3 1/2" thickness for the 4x4 posts if
>it was available locally and not cost prohibitive. Since it's not then
>I'm trying to get the look of the ipe using what's available which is
>3/4" thick ipe and PT or
>redwood.
Do you need the center? Wouldn't a box column of 1x ipe be plenty
strong to carry the load? If not, how about a steel post, boxed in
with the ipe?
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
On Wed, 10 Jun 2009 15:09:17 -0500, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have worked with Ipe quite a bit and find that the glue that "looks like"
>and "screws like" a "Pocket Hole Screw" works pretty good. :~)
>
Heard that!
We even thought about using sliding dovetails to join the sticks up
into panel widths.
Once you start thinking like that it's time to do some more thinking.
Regards,
Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/
piss off
On Tue, 09 Jun 2009 11:37:37 -0700, David Nebenzahl
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 6/9/2009 11:18 AM SonomaProducts.com spake thus:
>
>> Ah yes, I did some testing of many adhesives a few years back for an
>> extreme application, wood to stone, and now I always keep a tube of
>> the winner, liquid nails, around for those odd jobs where I need a
>> quick permenant fix.
>
>Please don't top post. You'll notice hardly anyone here does.
Regards,
Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Gluing_Ipe.html
On Tue, 9 Jun 2009 10:08:30 -0700 (PDT), dale martin
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hello all. I'm working on an arbor to "frame" a set of French doors on
>the front of our house. It is a simple design of Craftsman/Asian
>influence. I've worked with Ipe before on an outdoor bench and table.
>At local lumberyard I can get nominal 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 boards. I've
>poured two footings using sonotubes and have sunk J-bolts for 4 x 4
>Simpson brackets for the two posts. My idea is to use either pressure
>treated or redwood milled to 3" x 3" and then wrap 1/4" ipe edge
>mitered on top, Gorilla glued and brad nailed. My question is for the
>"base" lumber, would it better to use PT or redwood. I could use my
>thickness planer to mill a 4x4 piece of redwood to 3x3. Or I could rip
>redwood 2x4 to 3" wide and laminate two together. Or I could rip PT
>2x4 to 3" and laminate them to make a dimensional 3x3. After the post
>situation is solved I've got the rest of the design and construction
>figured out. I'm going to use Penofin oil to "seal" the ipe. TIA for
>your help.
Regards,
Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/
"Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 10 Jun 2009 15:09:17 -0500, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I have worked with Ipe quite a bit and find that the glue that "looks
>>like"
>>and "screws like" a "Pocket Hole Screw" works pretty good. :~)
>>
>
>
> Heard that!
>
> We even thought about using sliding dovetails to join the sticks up
> into panel widths.
>
> Once you start thinking like that it's time to do some more thinking.
LOL ROTHFL I used to very often WAY WAY WAY WAY over plan or engineer like
that. You really need to walk away and think about something else for a
while at that point. I would like to see the Sliding DT though. ;~)