On Sat, 10 May 2008 02:37:32 -0400, [email protected] (Jerry -
OHIO) wrote:
> I milled some oak and pine down to 3/8 "to make the squares for a chess
>board.
>Can I glue them to a sheet of 1/4" plywood or will the pine & oak split
>& buckle ?
>
>Jerry
>
>
>
>
>http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/MyWoodWorkingPage
I'm concerned about the difference in expansion and contraction
between the oak and the pine. Also, when you glue these to the
comparatively rigid substrate you describe there could be a problem.
It also sounds like you are intending to lay down individual blocks,
which is liable to be difficult.
I make chessboards by gluing up 3/4" thick laminations that have
veneer thickness face wood on top and bottom, like plywood.
On the board shown in the attached link, the ply was ripped to about 2
1/4" and then alternating strips were splined together, as you would
do when making a cutting board. Once these are glued up, the
resulting board can be crosscut to the same width as the individual
strips and your work is much reduced.
The resulting board is then trimmed square and can be banded. The
piece shown has mitered banding and has not shown any cracks, although
it has been in conditioned space since it was made.
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/index_files/Page485.htm
Balanced construction is the key to making these sorts of things.
HTH
Regards,
Tom
Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
On May 10, 1:37=A0am, [email protected] (Jerry - OHIO) wrote:
> =A0I milled some oak and pine down to 3/8 "to make the squares for a chess=
> board.
> Can I glue them to a sheet of 1/4" plywood or will the pine & oak =A0split=
> & buckle ?
>
> Jerry
>
> http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/MyWoodWorkingPage
Jerry,
I dont think you will have a problem with the small pieces as long as
the wood you are using has dried well.
I made one a couple of years ago from maple and walnut and have not
hada problem with it.
Randy
htt://nokeswoodworks.com
If you alternate the grain of the squares, you "may" not have a problem.
Keeping the grain in one direction will cause the water based glue to warp
the plywood as it dries. It is always better, in any case, to duplicate the
face treatment exactly on the back to prevent this occurring, which can
happen at any time due to humidity changes. This will keep the tension equal
on both sides, increasing the stability of the finished product.
"Jerry - OHIO" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for the imfo ,this is a birthday gift for my grand daughter and
> I wanted it to turn out nice and not fall apart.
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
>
> http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/MyWoodWorkingPage
>
"Jerry - OHIO" wrote:
> Thanks for the imfo ,this is a birthday gift for my grand daughter
> and
> I wanted it to turn out nice and not fall apart.
Just curious.
Are you planning on cutting inndividual blocks and them gluing them or
will you be gluing up alternate color stips (8 strips), then cutting
and assembling?
Lew