For those of you with teh 16/32 and 22/44 sanders, I have a question.
I read a fine woodworking article from a while back talking about the
16/32 and some other sanders. It says that for the open-ended sanders,
when you sand a wide board in two passes, you have to readjust the drum
so that it's no longer parallel with the table. That is, you have to
make the drum farther from the table at the open end than it is at the
closed end, thus creating an artificial crown in the board. The
article says that if you don't do this, you end up with a 1/32" groove
where open end of the drum is. Is this true? The article looks like
it's a number of years old. Did they fix this? I'd hate to readjust
the drum parallelness when switching between wide and narrow boards.
brian
On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 16:47:50 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I do not mind sanding the occasional large surface and most of my furniture
>has panels around 18 inches wide. I mostly want the drum sander for sanding
>small box parts and inlay. According to Performax the pieces being sanded
>can be as short as 2-1/2" long.
For small parts, I'd take a serious look at building one yourself.
For short boards you really don't need a conveyor. Quite happy with
mine so far, though there's been a bump or two along the way. Save
quite a bit of money building it, and you can use a 220v motor to
solve your no longer existing electrical problem. But it's the sort
of thing that will pay for itself no matter how much you spend.
It's small, too small for me, but you might also take a look at the
Byrnes sander that I modeled a lot of mine on.
http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/sander.html?id_mm=0105MM362063
6 inch width, little over 1" max thickness. The one reservation I
have about recommending it would be that I emailed the guy about
custom building one with greater max thickness and got no reply. But
it seems like an excellent machine.
-Leuf
Leon wrote:
> Great... I thinking of getting one, solved the electricity problem, and now
> you bring this up. :~) I suppose that would be good to know. I wonder if
> the article discover this situation or if the owners manual mentions this.
Which electricity problem?
I was planning on getting the 22/44 (after moving the shop now :-P ).
But after reading about this, I may have to spend the extra money and
get a closed-end sander. I'm not liking that idea though because it
means that I would just about have to double (or more) the price to get
one with the same 44" capacity. I *really* want to be able to sand
table tops. This is enough of an issue to make me compromise on the
width though. My shop time is really limited. And drum sanders are
already fussy without this thrown in.
brian
brianlanning wrote:
> For those of you with teh 16/32 and 22/44 sanders, I have a question.
> I read a fine woodworking article from a while back talking about the
> 16/32 and some other sanders. It says that for the open-ended sanders,
> when you sand a wide board in two passes, you have to readjust the drum
> so that it's no longer parallel with the table. That is, you have to
> make the drum farther from the table at the open end than it is at the
> closed end, thus creating an artificial crown in the board. The
> article says that if you don't do this, you end up with a 1/32" groove
> where open end of the drum is. Is this true? The article looks like
> it's a number of years old. Did they fix this? I'd hate to readjust
> the drum parallelness when switching between wide and narrow boards.
>
> brian
I seldom sand things that are so wide that I have to flip them.
Usually, I plane the boards, run them through the sander, glue them up,
and then touch
up with a random orbital sander to make up for any minor goofs in glue
up alignment.
On the rare occasions that I have done the "flip", I don't change the
table adjustment. It's a huge PITA to get that table level, so I'm not
going to touch that setting. I flip it and then
touch up with a ROS.
Yes you have to have it just a hair higher on the outside.When I had
mine I just dialed it in and left it like that. It was maybe 1/64th if
that. These are great for widths that fit within the the width of the
belt. It is really a bit gimmicky to do wider widths. I always hand
sanded after for wider widths.
If at all possible I would sand separate panels at the max width, then
join them and hand sand out the rest of the way. Now that I have a 24"
wide belt I still use this approach. I did a 2" thick butcher block top
3' wide by 5' long. I did a buch of 8-10" wide glue-ups and sanded them
down to a standard thickness. Then I joined them into two 18" wides and
sanded those in the wide belt, then joined the two pieces and hand
sanded.
If I had my choice, I would much rather have a 24" wide drum than an
18/36 open sided. Plus the open sides units are usually 1 1/2 hp and
the drums are 4 or 5hp.
BW
brianlanning wrote:
> For those of you with teh 16/32 and 22/44 sanders, I have a question.
> I read a fine woodworking article from a while back talking about the
> 16/32 and some other sanders. It says that for the open-ended sanders,
> when you sand a wide board in two passes, you have to readjust the drum
> so that it's no longer parallel with the table. That is, you have to
> make the drum farther from the table at the open end than it is at the
> closed end, thus creating an artificial crown in the board. The
> article says that if you don't do this, you end up with a 1/32" groove
> where open end of the drum is. Is this true? The article looks like
> it's a number of years old. Did they fix this? I'd hate to readjust
> the drum parallelness when switching between wide and narrow boards.
>
> brian
LRod wrote:
> I think you need to do an economics evaluation.
> First, how many >32" wide pieces are you ever going to sand? If it's
> less than even two dozen over the course of maybe 20 years of
> woodworking, how can you justify the huge machine?
Shhhh, swmbo may be reading this thread. :-)
> Next, by your own admission, you have "really limited" shop time. Now
> how many >32" pieces are you going to be sanding?
It's limited for now. My hope is that I'll be using these machines for
decades. That may be unrealistic. But I think it's a worthy goal.
You're right, I can't really justify it. I'm just worried about paying
$2000 (for example) for a 24" machine when I can pay $2500 for a 32"
machine. That may be unrealistic. There's a sweet spot somewhere I
haven't identified. I guess my goal is to get as much drum sander as I
can for $2500 or less. Once it goes over that price, I start getting
flak from the accountant. I still need to do a lot more research.
Originally, I had decided on the 22/44 since it would do 22" wide
boards just fine, and had a way to do the large boards when I may
occasionally need that. Only now there's (maybe) a price to be paid
for that extra feature. This has also got me thinking again about
motor size, dual drums, flat drum vs velcro, and all that stuff. For
about $1800, it looks like grizzly has one that's 23.5", but has two
drums and 5hp vs 1.5hp on the peformax. I have to wonder which machine
I would be happier with. It seems like you get a lot more with the
griz for the extra $500.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G1066Z
> Finally, even that big, $10,000 Timesavers sander Norm has in The New
> Yankee Workshop is only a 36" (and which, by the way, is almost
> assuredly a 3-phase machine). Do you think you're going to be able to
> find a sander with more capacity for significantly less money?
His machine is a wide belt sander. I'm looking for a drum sander,
mainly because of cost. And while I'd love to have a wide belt sander
like that one, it's a production machine. And that's really a case of
can't justify the cost. Besides, with a machine like that I start to
running out of subpanel and dust collector, even (or maybe especially)
if it were single phase.
> For the very few times you need that capacity, you'd be far better off
> either renting time on a sander in a commercial shop (if possible) or
> just subbing it out outright (The Hardwood Connection out in
> Sycamore--west of town on 64 just past Peace Rd) has a widebelt sander
> and would probably do it under those conditions).
>
> Save your money and your space for things you'll use more often and
> are less upfront dollars (and that won't take up space all out of
> proportion to their use).
You're right of course. Maybe I've become obsessive compulsive about
cry once. :-)
brian
[email protected] wrote:
> I have a 22/44 and the crown is very very small, and you just touch it
> up with a RO sander. Nothing to be concerned about.
I'm not so much worried about the crown as I am the groove they talked
about. If you can adjust the open end so that it's 1/64" or even 1/32"
higher, then leave it there forever. That would probably be fine.
Chances are, I would never notice since it's the wide boards that would
tend to have this much error in thickness rather than places where
you're joining like table aprons or legs.
I just want to avoid having to ever adjust this setting much. To me,
having to do that would be like having to adjust your jointer knives
between every board.
My main goal for a drum sander is to reduce the amount of sanding time
I have. If I have to spend 15 minutes sanding a table top with the
ROS, that's not a big deal. If this machine saves me an hour on
sanding the top, I think it's worth it. Chances are, it would do a
better job sanding than I would.
Has anyone ever upgraded the motor on a 22/44? I'm not sure if I would
even need more than the 1.5.
brian
I agree with George. With the cantilever design the outside needs
to be slightly lower to account for a very small amount of flex in the
open ended design.
My 16/32 works great. This is a sander not a thicknesser. If you
don't try to sand to deep and to fast you will have very little clean
up.
Everybody (including me) wants to hurry up and get finished with
the sanding because the finished project is almost ready and the
freakin' sanding is holding up the show when the truth is if you take
your time sanding the "show" will be better.
Robert
George wrote:
> "bf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > On the rare occasions that I have done the "flip", I don't change the
> > table adjustment. It's a huge PITA to get that table level, so I'm not
> > going to touch that setting. I flip it and then
> > touch up with a ROS.
> >
>
> ME2
>
> Keeping the open end a tad down (64th) seems to take care of the flex in the
> cantilever design, producing uniform thickness pieces.
>
> Perhaps the reason for suggesting the tip up is that it's a lot easier to
> take away wood in the middle of nowhere than add it....
dadiOH wrote:
> You want to set it as close to level as possible, just a *tiny* bit
> higher outboard.
OK, now I've seen posts suggesting, as above, to set the outboard end higher,
presumably to allow for sag. There have also been posts suggesting that the
outboard end should be set lower to combat flex.
Either the opposing posters have different sanders, or the rest of us haven't
a clue which is right.
I may have missed it, but has anyone quoted what Performax says? I don't own
one but our store does sell them so I'd like to know what to tell the
customers.
--
It's turtles, all the way down
I don't find them for sale used! I think that speaks for itself. Doesn't it?
I am looking for one and was trying for used, but no luck.
"brianlanning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For those of you with teh 16/32 and 22/44 sanders, I have a question.
> I read a fine woodworking article from a while back talking about the
> 16/32 and some other sanders. It says that for the open-ended sanders,
> when you sand a wide board in two passes, you have to readjust the drum
> so that it's no longer parallel with the table. That is, you have to
> make the drum farther from the table at the open end than it is at the
> closed end, thus creating an artificial crown in the board. The
> article says that if you don't do this, you end up with a 1/32" groove
> where open end of the drum is. Is this true? The article looks like
> it's a number of years old. Did they fix this? I'd hate to readjust
> the drum parallelness when switching between wide and narrow boards.
>
> brian
>
"brianlanning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For those of you with teh 16/32 and 22/44 sanders, I have a question.
> I read a fine woodworking article from a while back talking about the
> 16/32 and some other sanders. It says that for the open-ended sanders,
> when you sand a wide board in two passes, you have to readjust the drum
> so that it's no longer parallel with the table. That is, you have to
> make the drum farther from the table at the open end than it is at the
> closed end, thus creating an artificial crown in the board. The
> article says that if you don't do this, you end up with a 1/32" groove
> where open end of the drum is. Is this true? The article looks like
> it's a number of years old. Did they fix this? I'd hate to readjust
> the drum parallelness when switching between wide and narrow boards.
>
> brian
>
You may find this useful - I did.
http://www.joewoodworker.com/performax.htm
When you initially align the sander, do it without any sandpaper installed
on either the drum or the table. You will need a good reference that has
parallel edges to get the setup done right - I used a 24" aluminum straight
edge from Lee Valley that I have. The tips about removing the spring and
making that mod really works - try it.
Bob S.
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>>
>> So if you are of the female persuasion you may enjoy sanding more than
>> the typical man? :~)
>
>
> There's a good question for "ACQ Nancy". <G>
Dang, you lost me on that one. ACQ?
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> The warm fuzzies would pontificate it's not the destination, it's the
> journey ... BS! Sanding is a lot like having to do all that you have to go
> through just to get laid ... IIRC.
So if you are of the female persuasion you may enjoy sanding more than the
typical man? :~)
brianlanning wrote:
> I'm not so much worried about the crown as I am the groove they
> talked about.
It isn't really a groove, it is an unsanded area. If you are sanding
something 24" wide on a 16" machine that means 8" is unsanded on the
first pass. When you flip it for pass #2, you will get an unsanded
area again *IF* the drum is not dead level or is too low on the
outboard end.
_____________
> If you can adjust the open end so that it's 1/64" or
> even 1/32" higher, then leave it there forever.
You can but those dimensions are way too much. It would take bloody
forever to sand out on a panel of any size.
You want to set it as close to level as possible, just a *tiny* bit
higher outboard. Easy way to check is with something flat, smooth and
at least 16" wide - draw diagonal pencil marks across it and sand so
you are barely sanding...lets you see how much is being taken off each
side and you can adust the drum accordingly. When you can just barely
remove the pencil from the inboard side and almost from the outboard
you have it about right.
BTW, when sanding stuff materially wider than the drum it is a good
idea to support what is hanging out the end. Additionally, you can
apply up/down pressure as needed on what's hanging out should the drum
be out of whack.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"B A R R Y" wrote in message
> Knotbob wrote:
> > Everybody (including me) wants to hurry up and get finished with
> > the sanding because the finished project is almost ready and the
> > freakin' sanding is holding up the show when the truth is if you take
> > your time sanding the "show" will be better.
>
> Not to mention that IT'S FREAKIN' SANDING! <G>
>
> I totally agree about taking your time, but does _anyone_ actually enjoy
> sanding?
The warm fuzzies would pontificate it's not the destination, it's the
journey ... BS! Sanding is a lot like having to do all that you have to go
through just to get laid ... IIRC.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06
"brianlanning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>> Great... I thinking of getting one, solved the electricity problem, and
>> now
>> you bring this up. :~) I suppose that would be good to know. I wonder
>> if
>> the article discover this situation or if the owners manual mentions
>> this.
>
> Which electricity problem?
>
> I was planning on getting the 22/44 (after moving the shop now :-P ).
> But after reading about this, I may have to spend the extra money and
> get a closed-end sander. I'm not liking that idea though because it
> means that I would just about have to double (or more) the price to get
> one with the same 44" capacity. I *really* want to be able to sand
> table tops. This is enough of an issue to make me compromise on the
> width though. My shop time is really limited. And drum sanders are
> already fussy without this thrown in.
>
> brian
>
The 16-32 and larger requires a 20 amp circuit. I thought I only had a
single 15 amp circuit in my garage until I checked the breaker box and
discovered the single 20 amp circuit for the washing machine. I was not
aware that that outlet was separate and 5 amp higher capacity.
I do not mind sanding the occasional large surface and most of my furniture
has panels around 18 inches wide. I mostly want the drum sander for sanding
small box parts and inlay. According to Performax the pieces being sanded
can be as short as 2-1/2" long.
Where have you seen a closed end sander with 44" capacity for only twice as
much money? Most that I have seen start in the 3 to 4 thousand dollar
range.
Additionally , take a look at the Performax site and pull up the PDF manual.
IIRC there is an actual adjustment knob for making this adjustment after
loosening a few cap screws. This may only be a few minute adjustment.
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>>
> Depends. SWMBO doesn't seem to mind sanding the breadboards with the old
> Rockwell speed bloc.
Yeah that sander goes way back. I bought my first PC Speed Bloc in 1989 and
it pooped out last yrear. I bought another just like it. That sander is a
work horse. If you do not see a cloud of dust coming up from it, it needs
new paper.
Knotbob wrote:
> Everybody (including me) wants to hurry up and get finished with
> the sanding because the finished project is almost ready and the
> freakin' sanding is holding up the show when the truth is if you take
> your time sanding the "show" will be better.
Not to mention that IT'S FREAKIN' SANDING! <G>
I totally agree about taking your time, but does _anyone_ actually enjoy
sanding?
Mine is still fairly new, but having read a lot of reviews I got the
impression that most problems people were having were caused by not
understanding how the machine needed to be set up, which isn't
difficult. My experience so far when working under 26" is that if its
set up correctly you dond have to change anything other then the angle
of the board when you feeed it in.
Mike M
On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 16:47:50 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"brianlanning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Leon wrote:
>>> Great... I thinking of getting one, solved the electricity problem, and
>>> now
>>> you bring this up. :~) I suppose that would be good to know. I wonder
>>> if
>>> the article discover this situation or if the owners manual mentions
>>> this.
>>
>> Which electricity problem?
>>
>> I was planning on getting the 22/44 (after moving the shop now :-P ).
>> But after reading about this, I may have to spend the extra money and
>> get a closed-end sander. I'm not liking that idea though because it
>> means that I would just about have to double (or more) the price to get
>> one with the same 44" capacity. I *really* want to be able to sand
>> table tops. This is enough of an issue to make me compromise on the
>> width though. My shop time is really limited. And drum sanders are
>> already fussy without this thrown in.
>>
>> brian
>>
>
>The 16-32 and larger requires a 20 amp circuit. I thought I only had a
>single 15 amp circuit in my garage until I checked the breaker box and
>discovered the single 20 amp circuit for the washing machine. I was not
>aware that that outlet was separate and 5 amp higher capacity.
>
>I do not mind sanding the occasional large surface and most of my furniture
>has panels around 18 inches wide. I mostly want the drum sander for sanding
>small box parts and inlay. According to Performax the pieces being sanded
>can be as short as 2-1/2" long.
>
>Where have you seen a closed end sander with 44" capacity for only twice as
>much money? Most that I have seen start in the 3 to 4 thousand dollar
>range.
>
>Additionally , take a look at the Performax site and pull up the PDF manual.
>IIRC there is an actual adjustment knob for making this adjustment after
>loosening a few cap screws. This may only be a few minute adjustment.
>
>
"brianlanning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For those of you with teh 16/32 and 22/44 sanders, I have a question.
> I read a fine woodworking article from a while back talking about the
> 16/32 and some other sanders. It says that for the open-ended sanders,
> when you sand a wide board in two passes, you have to readjust the drum
> so that it's no longer parallel with the table. That is, you have to
> make the drum farther from the table at the open end than it is at the
> closed end, thus creating an artificial crown in the board. The
> article says that if you don't do this, you end up with a 1/32" groove
> where open end of the drum is. Is this true? The article looks like
> it's a number of years old. Did they fix this? I'd hate to readjust
> the drum parallelness when switching between wide and narrow boards.
>
I have never been able to get it perfectly parallel. So I make sure the
error is to having the outside a bit higher. Not a serious problem; you
just have to be sure not to sand something on the extreme outside, lower the
drum and then sand on the inside, because it is too much.
On 13 Nov 2006 08:16:35 -0800, "brianlanning" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>For those of you with teh 16/32 and 22/44 sanders, I have a question.
>I read a fine woodworking article from a while back talking about the
>16/32 and some other sanders. It says that for the open-ended sanders,
>when you sand a wide board in two passes, you have to readjust the drum
>so that it's no longer parallel with the table. That is, you have to
>make the drum farther from the table at the open end than it is at the
>closed end, thus creating an artificial crown in the board. The
>article says that if you don't do this, you end up with a 1/32" groove
>where open end of the drum is. Is this true? The article looks like
>it's a number of years old. Did they fix this? I'd hate to readjust
>the drum parallelness when switching between wide and narrow boards.
>
>brian
I have a 22/44 and the crown is very very small, and you just touch it
up with a RO sander. Nothing to be concerned about.
Gary
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote in message
>
>> I do not mind sanding the occasional large surface and most of my
> furniture
>> has panels around 18 inches wide. I mostly want the drum sander for
> sanding
>> small box parts and inlay. According to Performax the pieces being
>> sanded
>> can be as short as 2-1/2" long.
>
> Leon, my advice is to buy the biggest you can find ... I may need the
> extra
> width when I come over to use it! ;)
Ironic how find and afford are in conflict with each other all the time.
:~)
"bf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> On the rare occasions that I have done the "flip", I don't change the
> table adjustment. It's a huge PITA to get that table level, so I'm not
> going to touch that setting. I flip it and then
> touch up with a ROS.
>
ME2
Keeping the open end a tad down (64th) seems to take care of the flex in the
cantilever design, producing uniform thickness pieces.
Perhaps the reason for suggesting the tip up is that it's a lot easier to
take away wood in the middle of nowhere than add it....
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>
>> The warm fuzzies would pontificate it's not the destination, it's the
>> journey ... BS! Sanding is a lot like having to do all that you have to
>> go
>> through just to get laid ... IIRC.
>
>
> So if you are of the female persuasion you may enjoy sanding more than the
> typical man? :~)
>
Depends. SWMBO doesn't seem to mind sanding the breadboards with the old
Rockwell speed bloc.
She puts the boards in her lap....
On Tue, 14 Nov 2006 00:54:54 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Leuf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 16:47:50 GMT, "Leon"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>Snip
>
>
>> 6 inch width, little over 1" max thickness. The one reservation I
>> have about recommending it would be that I emailed the guy about
>> custom building one with greater max thickness and got no reply. But
>> it seems like an excellent machine.
>
>
>Yeah that might be a bit small. Thanks for reminding me about the home
>built sanders. Actually IIRC ShopNotes recently had an issue covering
>building your own and using the TS to power it. That would not work for me
>since I am using a cabinet saw but I could probably have it run
>independently with its own motor.
It's not a complicated machine. My experience:
http://krtwood.com/sander.html
The only thing I need to add is that the shaft decided it wanted to
move on me, 4 set screws be damned. I didn't file a flat for them as
I didn't think there was much of anything that would make the shaft
want to go side to side. And the set screws fouled up the shaft to
the point I can't get the bearings off it to file it now. I added in
a spacer between the drum and bearing and that keeps it from going in
the direction it kept wanting to go before. Oh, also had to lock
another nut against the cap nut on the height adjuster to keep it from
unthreading when lowering the table.
Some of my experience goes against a lot of the prevailing wisdom,
mainly the support of the table at the front and the motor mounting,
but those seem to work fine for everyone else.
-Leuf
On 13 Nov 2006 08:35:24 -0800, "brianlanning" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I was planning on getting the 22/44 (after moving the shop now :-P ).
>But after reading about this, I may have to spend the extra money and
>get a closed-end sander. I'm not liking that idea though because it
>means that I would just about have to double (or more) the price to get
>one with the same 44" capacity. I *really* want to be able to sand
>table tops. This is enough of an issue to make me compromise on the
>width though. My shop time is really limited. And drum sanders are
>already fussy without this thrown in.
I think you need to do an economics evaluation.
First, how many >32" wide pieces are you ever going to sand? If it's
less than even two dozen over the course of maybe 20 years of
woodworking, how can you justify the huge machine?
Next, by your own admission, you have "really limited" shop time. Now
how many >32" pieces are you going to be sanding?
Finally, even that big, $10,000 Timesavers sander Norm has in The New
Yankee Workshop is only a 36" (and which, by the way, is almost
assuredly a 3-phase machine). Do you think you're going to be able to
find a sander with more capacity for significantly less money?
For the very few times you need that capacity, you'd be far better off
either renting time on a sander in a commercial shop (if possible) or
just subbing it out outright (The Hardwood Connection out in
Sycamore--west of town on 64 just past Peace Rd) has a widebelt sander
and would probably do it under those conditions).
Save your money and your space for things you'll use more often and
are less upfront dollars (and that won't take up space all out of
proportion to their use).
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.
Leave the "outside" dimension slightly higher(very slightly) than the
inside. You will never notice the difference unless you carefully use a
micrometer to measure the center differential. Using this method does indeed
eliminate any chance of a sanding "ridge" in the center.
I have been using a 22/24 on a RAS for about 20-22 years. I now own a 16/32
stand-alone and have not re-adjusted it since the original install 3 years
ago. Enough said. Enjoy, the Performax is a great tool.
John
"Leon" wrote in message
> I do not mind sanding the occasional large surface and most of my
furniture
> has panels around 18 inches wide. I mostly want the drum sander for
sanding
> small box parts and inlay. According to Performax the pieces being sanded
> can be as short as 2-1/2" long.
Leon, my advice is to buy the biggest you can find ... I may need the extra
width when I come over to use it! ;)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06
I think a lot of problems come from trying to use it as a planer. I
got it to use for resawing primarily and its done great so far.
Mike M
On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 16:47:50 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"brianlanning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Leon wrote:
>>> Great... I thinking of getting one, solved the electricity problem, and
>>> now
>>> you bring this up. :~) I suppose that would be good to know. I wonder
>>> if
>>> the article discover this situation or if the owners manual mentions
>>> this.
>>
>> Which electricity problem?
>>
>> I was planning on getting the 22/44 (after moving the shop now :-P ).
>> But after reading about this, I may have to spend the extra money and
>> get a closed-end sander. I'm not liking that idea though because it
>> means that I would just about have to double (or more) the price to get
>> one with the same 44" capacity. I *really* want to be able to sand
>> table tops. This is enough of an issue to make me compromise on the
>> width though. My shop time is really limited. And drum sanders are
>> already fussy without this thrown in.
>>
>> brian
>>
>
>The 16-32 and larger requires a 20 amp circuit. I thought I only had a
>single 15 amp circuit in my garage until I checked the breaker box and
>discovered the single 20 amp circuit for the washing machine. I was not
>aware that that outlet was separate and 5 amp higher capacity.
>
>I do not mind sanding the occasional large surface and most of my furniture
>has panels around 18 inches wide. I mostly want the drum sander for sanding
>small box parts and inlay. According to Performax the pieces being sanded
>can be as short as 2-1/2" long.
>
>Where have you seen a closed end sander with 44" capacity for only twice as
>much money? Most that I have seen start in the 3 to 4 thousand dollar
>range.
>
>Additionally , take a look at the Performax site and pull up the PDF manual.
>IIRC there is an actual adjustment knob for making this adjustment after
>loosening a few cap screws. This may only be a few minute adjustment.
>
>
"brianlanning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For those of you with teh 16/32 and 22/44 sanders, I have a question.
> I read a fine woodworking article from a while back talking about the
> 16/32 and some other sanders. It says that for the open-ended sanders,
> when you sand a wide board in two passes, you have to readjust the drum
> so that it's no longer parallel with the table. That is, you have to
> make the drum farther from the table at the open end than it is at the
> closed end, thus creating an artificial crown in the board. The
> article says that if you don't do this, you end up with a 1/32" groove
> where open end of the drum is. Is this true? The article looks like
> it's a number of years old. Did they fix this? I'd hate to readjust
> the drum parallelness when switching between wide and narrow boards.
>
> brian
>
Great... I thinking of getting one, solved the electricity problem, and now
you bring this up. :~) I suppose that would be good to know. I wonder if
the article discover this situation or if the owners manual mentions this.
As an extra question, Does any one have the 10-20? I am seriously
considering that one also.
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Knotbob wrote:
>> Everybody (including me) wants to hurry up and get finished with
>> the sanding because the finished project is almost ready and the
>> freakin' sanding is holding up the show when the truth is if you take
>> your time sanding the "show" will be better.
>
> Not to mention that IT'S FREAKIN' SANDING! <G>
>
> I totally agree about taking your time, but does _anyone_ actually enjoy
> sanding?
I really do not mind sanding. I used to hate it. Truly having the
equipment that gets the job done in a timely manner is key. I do not cut
corners on sanders and go with the ones that have stood the test of time.
"Leuf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 16:47:50 GMT, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
Snip
> 6 inch width, little over 1" max thickness. The one reservation I
> have about recommending it would be that I emailed the guy about
> custom building one with greater max thickness and got no reply. But
> it seems like an excellent machine.
Yeah that might be a bit small. Thanks for reminding me about the home
built sanders. Actually IIRC ShopNotes recently had an issue covering
building your own and using the TS to power it. That would not work for me
since I am using a cabinet saw but I could probably have it run
independently with its own motor.
"Leon" wrote in message
> So if you are of the female persuasion you may enjoy sanding more than the
> typical man? :~)
Actually, what would you want to bet that is not far from the truth?
Sounds like a good prospective thesis for one of those government funded
grants.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06