This is probably carpentry vs woodworking.
Have a 4' double pocket door (2'+2') opening with one wall side normal
drywall and the other has two layers of styrofoam insulation attached under
the drywall. It's a 6" wall using a 4" pocket door assembly.
Have built this house from scratch but don't know the best way to layout and
attach the casing. As flexible as the door's frame is I want to use the
casing to stiffen it as much as possible. For the jamb I'm thinking a 1x
screwed into the small openings in the steel frame along with construction
cement. Then bring the casing to the jamb as normal but cement it as well -
?screw to the steel/mdf frame?
Maybe this is best done on ABPW since a picture's worth a .........
Anyway, thanks if someone can help, especially with pictures.
TomNie
Tom Nie wrote:
> This is probably carpentry vs woodworking.
> Have a 4' double pocket door (2'+2') opening with one wall side normal
> drywall and the other has two layers of styrofoam insulation attached under
> the drywall. It's a 6" wall using a 4" pocket door assembly.
>
> Have built this house from scratch but don't know the best way to layout and
> attach the casing. As flexible as the door's frame is I want to use the
> casing to stiffen it as much as possible. For the jamb I'm thinking a 1x
> screwed into the small openings in the steel frame along with construction
> cement. Then bring the casing to the jamb as normal but cement it as well -
> ?screw to the steel/mdf frame?
>
> Maybe this is best done on ABPW since a picture's worth a .........
> Anyway, thanks if someone can help, especially with pictures.
>
> TomNie
Go to www.askthebuilder.com and look for pocket doors. He has several
articles on them. Not a lot of details, but will give you a lot of
info. I found this by googleing "pocket doors".
On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 06:47:46 -0500, "Tom Nie" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Have built this house from scratch but don't know the best way to layout and
>attach the casing. As flexible as the door's frame is I want to use the
>casing to stiffen it as much as possible. For the jamb I'm thinking a 1x
>screwed into the small openings in the steel frame along with construction
>cement. Then bring the casing to the jamb as normal but cement it as well -
>?screw to the steel/mdf frame?
You have the right idea. Normally we attach the 1x jamb material
through the little slots. You can use trim screws or even nails if
you're a good shot. Use an adhesive if you like but only if your
steel stud is plumb. If not, you will have to pull the jamb away from
the stud (at either the top or bottom) to get things plumb.
As far as casing goes attach it as normal but make sure the fasteners
don't come through the inside of the metal stud. You probably have a
3/4" stud plus 1/2" rock plus the thickness of your casing. As far as
gluing goes glue only one side unless you can get the door out without
the removal of the casing. Some hardware will allow you to drop the
door from the hangers and then (if you have wall and height clearance)
slide it out of the opening. You can check this before installing the
casing. If you can remove the door, go ahead and glue the casing.
Mike O.
Tom Nie wrote:
> This is probably carpentry vs woodworking.
> Have a 4' double pocket door (2'+2') opening with one wall side normal
> drywall and the other has two layers of styrofoam insulation attached
> under the drywall. It's a 6" wall using a 4" pocket door assembly.
>
> Have built this house from scratch but don't know the best way to
> layout and attach the casing. As flexible as the door's frame is I
> want to use the casing to stiffen it as much as possible. For the
> jamb I'm thinking a 1x screwed into the small openings in the steel
> frame along with construction cement. Then bring the casing to the
> jamb as normal but cement it as well - ?screw to the steel/mdf frame?
The pocket door frames I am familiar with have a 3/4" wood "stud"
attached to the steel. With them, one fastens the jamb/casing pieces to
the wood "stud"....if one were to go through the steel, the screw point
would interfere with the door itself. Scratch the hell out of it too.
:)
Regardless of how your frame may be constructed, I wouldn't attach trim
pieces in any manner that would not allow their simple removal should
the necessity arise. I have two pocket doors; one we used to partially
close at night and the dog learned to stick her nose in the 3-4" opening
and push the door open more so she could come and go from that room.
Her wracking pushing messed up one of the hangers and I had to replace
same. To do so, you have to remove trim to get the door out. If I had
it to do over, I would have *no* pocket doors.
The trim pieces will give the same rigidity just screwing them to the
pocket frame. They will add considerable rigidity but not to the point
of making the frame non-shakeable.
--
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Tom Nie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>"> through the little slots. You can use trim screws or even nails if
>> you're a good shot. Use an adhesive if you like but only if your
>
> "trim screws" I'm assuming are drywall screws?
>
> TomNie
>
>
Not the same. Trim screws have very small heads that just fit the phillips
or square drive. Usually a harder steel as well.
http://www.mcfeelys.com/find-a-fastener.asp
Gary
Mike,
Thanks a ton. Obviously you're very familiar with the situation. Makes me
feel better now about getting the thing done.
TomNie
"> You have the right idea. Normally we attach the 1x jamb material
> through the little slots. You can use trim screws or even nails if
> you're a good shot. Use an adhesive if you like but only if your
> steel stud is plumb. If not, you will have to pull the jamb away from
> the stud (at either the top or bottom) to get things plumb.
>
> As far as casing goes attach it as normal but make sure the fasteners
> don't come through the inside of the metal stud. You probably have a
> 3/4" stud plus 1/2" rock plus the thickness of your casing. As far as
> gluing goes glue only one side unless you can get the door out without
> the removal of the casing. Some hardware will allow you to drop the
> door from the hangers and then (if you have wall and height clearance)
> slide it out of the opening. You can check this before installing the
> casing. If you can remove the door, go ahead and glue the casing.
>
> Mike O.
On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 07:36:07 -0500, "Tom Nie" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>Mike,
>Thanks a ton. Obviously you're very familiar with the situation. Makes me
>feel better now about getting the thing done.
>
>TomNie
>
>"> You have the right idea. Normally we attach the 1x jamb material
>> through the little slots. You can use trim screws or even nails if
>> you're a good shot. Use an adhesive if you like but only if your
>> steel stud is plumb. If not, you will have to pull the jamb away from
>> the stud (at either the top or bottom) to get things plumb.
>>
>> As far as casing goes attach it as normal but make sure the fasteners
>> don't come through the inside of the metal stud. You probably have a
>> 3/4" stud plus 1/2" rock plus the thickness of your casing. As far as
>> gluing goes glue only one side unless you can get the door out without
>> the removal of the casing. Some hardware will allow you to drop the
>> door from the hangers and then (if you have wall and height clearance)
>> slide it out of the opening. You can check this before installing the
>> casing. If you can remove the door, go ahead and glue the casing.
>>
>> Mike O.
>
one more tidbit. if you attach the top casings to the jamb peice so as
to allow the header to be slid in all as 1 piece [ it will make an "l_
" shaped peice ] its as simple as placing 2 screws through the top
casing into the side casing to hold it in place. this way if you ever
have to adjust the door it is accessable by removing the screws and
slideing the whole thing out to get to the adjusting bolts. hope you
get what i am trying to say here. this saves a whole lotta hassel
later.
skeez
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:6MTTf.12905$bu.12064@trnddc04...
>
> The pocket door frames I am familiar with have a 3/4" wood "stud"
> attached to the steel. With them, one fastens the jamb/casing pieces to
> the wood "stud"....if one were to go through the steel, the screw point
> would interfere with the door itself. Scratch the hell out of it too.
> :)
>
I can't count the number of times I was on a customer service call for a
pocket door that wouldn't work to find a picture hung on the wall pocket
using a 6d or larger nail.........
or the cabinet installer had run a 3.5" screw into the pocket door.
Gary (glue & pin nailsbrads work nicely)