Any good on-line tutorials for woodcarving? I'm just getting started.
My first attempt: http://i.imgur.com/Ys021s6.jpg
First lesson learned: don't buy cheap chinese chisels. I already
knew that, but I was in a hurry to get started. Next day, I went
out and got a better set.
How do you make the carved surfaces smooth? Mine are all lumpy
and gouged. Do you just take small pieces of sand paper and work
it in all the corners and stuff?
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
Edward A. Falk <[email protected]> wrote:
> Any good on-line tutorials for woodcarving? I'm just getting started.
>
> My first attempt: http://i.imgur.com/Ys021s6.jpg
>
> First lesson learned: don't buy cheap chinese chisels. I already
> knew that, but I was in a hurry to get started. Next day, I went
> out and got a better set.
>
> How do you make the carved surfaces smooth? Mine are all lumpy
> and gouged. Do you just take small pieces of sand paper and work
> it in all the corners and stuff?
I have never carved and you are an expert compared to me. BUT from what I
have always seen you use sharp tools and with lots of practice your cuts
come out smooth.
Edward A. Falk <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Edward A. Falk <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> I have never carved and you are an expert compared to me. BUT from what I
>> have always seen you use sharp tools and with lots of practice your cuts
>> come out smooth.
>
> Yeah, dumping the cheap chinese tools and getting a set of Flexcut
> chisels made a world of difference.
>
> Still need to figure out how to get the results nice and smooth.
>
> Maybe a scraper plane?
Practice, practice, and more practice.
>Edward A. Falk <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm using brand-new Flexcut chisels which seem to be nice and sharp;
>no tear-out that I can see.
Great tools. One of my personal favorites. Not as thin or refined as
some others, but they have taken anything I've thrown at them and keep
going strong. It's easy to keep them sharp with a quick strop now and
then while you work.
>Update: I'm probably abusing them, but one gouge seems dull already;
>time to dig out the sharpening stones. Results keep getting
>better though.
Keep it going! And show us your work. ;)
On Monday, July 8, 2013 11:54:12 AM UTC-5, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> >, Edward A. Falk > wrote: > >More pics soon; I'm getting almost acceptab=
le at it. I may do a little bit more polishing, but I'm pretty much finishe=
d. http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo138.jpg.html -- -Ed Falk, http://t=
hespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
That looks great. Overall, a very good job.=20
I like this approach, that....
You tell us what is good or bad about your work, then we'll reply.=20
But I'll critique, now.
Practice on making the inside of your flower leaves curved/concaved (hollow=
ed inward) and making the exterior convex. Do a single leaf for this pract=
ice, with a short rounded stem. You've done one of those flowers this way,=
but the other/upper/larger one could use a little more work.
Don't know where you will apply/install this mounting, but if you don't hav=
e to install it immediately, you might do some more practicing, then come b=
ack, later, and touch up this first piece.=20
To improve on the next project, or a retouch of this one:
The rounding of the insect head and tail sections.... those look good; Mayb=
e do this rounding on the flower's stamens. I think the stamens will appea=
r better, if rounded, than their present kinna flat appearance. See the "p=
ea or shot moulding", page 56, and the "egg" in the egg and dart moulding, =
page 57, in your book, for help with making rounded carvings as these.
The more you practice repetitive elements, like repeated moulding elements,=
the better your single elements (stamen?) will be in a scene as your flowe=
r arrangement.
Sonny
dpb wrote:
>Man, one would have to seriously work at it to actually "ruin" a tool
>irreparably.
--------------------------------------------------
Edward A. Falk wrote:
> True. I loaned one of my chisels to a contractor once, and by the
> time
> he was done pounding on it, the edge was curled back so far that it
> made a better cabinet scraper than chisel. I sharpened it from
> scratch
> last weekend, and now you can shave with it.
>
> My problem is that I suck at any sharpening operation that requires
> that
> I hold the tool by hand. I made two of my cheap chisels very very
> sharp, and totally blunted the third.
----------------------------------------------------
Just to put things in perspective, Cerritos College, thru their WMT
program,
offers a course in hand tools including how to sharpen them.
Students are required to furnish their own equipment.
2-3 years ago, the average student had around $500.00 invested.
There were more than a couple of Tormek's in the group I saw as well
as several high end planes.
Needless to say, Hock likes this course.
Lew
Edward A. Falk wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>,
> Leon<[email protected]> wrote:
>>Edward A. Falk<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>I have never carved and you are an expert compared to me. BUT from what I
>>have always seen you use sharp tools and with lots of practice your cuts
>>come out smooth.
>
> Yeah, dumping the cheap chinese tools and getting a set of Flexcut
> chisels made a world of difference.
>
> Still need to figure out how to get the results nice and smooth.
>
> Maybe a scraper plane?
>
I use these a lot. They make them in 5 or 6 grits. They will get into
tiny areas to smooth them.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=20187&cat=1,42500
--
GW Ross
Don't worry about the future, sooner
or later it's the past.
On 4/12/2013 12:05 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> John Grossbohlin <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> You may be able to find some of Mary May's pirated videos on-line... they
>> show up occasionally but she told me that they generally don't stay long due
>> to the copyright infringements. She has appeared on The Woodwright's Shop
>> with Roy Underhill and I know that there are is at least one episode with
>> her on the PBS web site.
>
> Thanks. I'll see if I can find a legitimate source for the videos.
>
>
>> Regarding the smoothness... looks like you are using pine.
>
> Doug Fir, actually, but that's just for practicing. I'll be going with
> Red Western Cedar for the real project.
>
> I'm using brand-new Flexcut chisels which seem to be nice and sharp;
> no tear-out that I can see.
>
> Thanks for the links to the videos; I'll look for them.
>
Might I recommend getting some basswood. Learning is frustrating enough.
Basswood is generally considered a carvers choice wood. And while you
will make mistakes, no need to frustrate yourself further.
Good luck. Keeping your tools sharp is important. Try using a honing
compound to polish by hand, and use it for quick touch ups. when that
doesn't help sharpen.
Like John said, good carvers don't sand. I have watched many carvers...
I wish I could carve like they do.
--
Jeff
On 7/8/2013 12:54 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Edward A. Falk <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> More pics soon; I'm getting almost acceptable at it.
>
> I may do a little bit more polishing, but I'm pretty much finished.
>
> http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo138.jpg.html
>
>
Nice work... More than acceptable, very good.
--
Jeff
On 4/22/2013 11:13 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Casper <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> Great tools. One of my personal favorites. Not as thin or refined as
>> some others, but they have taken anything I've thrown at them and keep
>> going strong. It's easy to keep them sharp with a quick strop now and
>> then while you work.
>
> Interestingly, I thought I'd take a crack at sharpening the cheap-ass
> Chinese chisels. I blunted the fishtail chisel pretty badly, but the
> basic gouge and the cut-off chisel came out great; the gouge is now
> better than the flexcut gouge. We'll see how long it keeps its edge,
> though.
>
> I wish there was such a thing as a "sharpening coach" -- someone to
> watch me sharpen things and tell me what I'm doing wrong. I'm still
> at the stage where I ruin as many blades as I sharpen.
>
> Plus, I gouged the hell out of my favorite stone sharpening that
> gouge :(
>
> More pics soon; I'm getting almost acceptable at it.
>
Ed,
The DVD by Everett Ellenwood on sharpening at this link:
http://www.ellenwoodarts.com/video.htm was a big help to me.
Neil
"Edward A. Falk" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>Any good on-line tutorials for woodcarving? I'm just getting started.
>My first attempt: http://i.imgur.com/Ys021s6.jpg
>First lesson learned: don't buy cheap chinese chisels. I already
>knew that, but I was in a hurry to get started. Next day, I went
>out and got a better set.
>How do you make the carved surfaces smooth? Mine are all lumpy
>and gouged. Do you just take small pieces of sand paper and work
>it in all the corners and stuff?
You may be able to find some of Mary May's pirated videos on-line... they
show up occasionally but she told me that they generally don't stay long due
to the copyright infringements. She has appeared on The Woodwright's Shop
with Roy Underhill and I know that there are is at least one episode with
her on the PBS web site.
http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/3200/3210.html There is a lot of
good information in that one show... watch it multiple times and you will
pick up more each time. Mary is a good teacher and it would be a good
investment to buy her DVDs and, if suitable for the work you want to
perform, some of her sample castings. She has plaster castings of things
like ball and claw feet so you can see and touch the form as you work on
your carvings.
Regarding the smoothness... looks like you are using pine. That requires
properly ground and very sharp tools as it tends to crush and tear. The rest
is technique. A skilled carver NEVER sands their work... it's all done with
the gouges. One of my former neighbors, now deceased, was formally trained
as a carver in Germany and both competed in and judged competitions during
his career. He explained to me what judges look for in competition. If I can
summarize his words in a sentence it would be smooth tool marks with no tear
out combined with pleasing form and varying depth of cuts.
John
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 11:02:55 PM UTC-5, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> Any good on-line tutorials for woodcarving?=20
I don't know about online, but I would recommend getting Dick Onians' book =
"Essential Woodcarving Techniques". Chris Pye's books are great, also: "Wo=
odcarving Course & Reference Manual", "Woodcarving Tools, Materials & Equip=
ment" volumes 1&2. All are large books, great instructions and great illus=
trations.
Everyone starts with those kinds of ugly cuts. Everyone wants to start wit=
h a relief scene or a carved animal (a mouse is popular choice). Try makin=
g strips of molding, first.=20
Use sharp chisels and learn how to sharpen them. Don't be sloppy with your=
chisels.... keep them safe so the edges don't get bumped, scraped, etc., i=
.e. dulled in any way. Don't use the chisels as pry bars, when carving... =
cut the wood, slice into the wood with slicing motions, when you can. Ther=
e are cuts where you dive the chisel straight into the wood, as with a pair=
ing chisel for making mortises, but always try to slice the wood, when you =
can.
Learning/Making the same repeated cuts hones your skills in making smooth c=
uts. When practicing/making a strip of molding, you practice repeated cuts=
. Different moldings require different cuts. Example: For carving a scene=
, like a vine with leaves, you'll make those same cuts at different locatio=
ns on the vine.
Learn how to cut with the grain, as opposed to against the grain, and nuanc=
es when carving perpendicular to the grain. Practice on soft woods. Don't=
make chopping cuts (except where appropriate), try to make slicing cuts.=
=20
Not only do you draw, with pencil, where you will be making cuts, but often=
you need to slice a line into the wood, with a straight knife, in essence,=
re-marking where you will carve with other chisels. Once you start perfec=
ting your carving skills, you can often eliminate the straight knife cut pr=
ocedure/step. Straight knife cutting helped me develope a more steady hand=
for exact cutting along the lines.
As you learn the different chisels, you'll find the different chisels help =
in making the smoother cuts in the different locations.
Experience is gold. Practice, practice, practice.
Sonny
On Friday, April 12, 2013 7:30:53 AM UTC-5, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> You may be able to find some of Mary May's pirated videos on-line... the=
y show up occasionally but she told me that they generally don't stay long =
due to the copyright infringements. She has appeared on The Woodwright's Sh=
op with Roy Underhill and I know that there are is at least one episode wit=
h her on the PBS web site.=20
I saw that episode and I check in to taking one of her classes. On that ep=
isode, she made a comment, that I suspect many folks missed the importance =
of. Carving with your right hand and carving with your left hand. One nee=
ds to practice both.
If you are right handed, you usually hold the chisel handle with your right=
hand and that hand/arm provides the force/push/power, for cutting. The le=
ft hand guides the chisel through the cut. In essence, it is the left hand=
doing the carving, dictating the carving stroke. She specifically notes t=
his, that it is the guiding hand that's actually doing the carving, not the=
hand providing the force, in that episode. She notes, not to try to dicta=
te the actual carving stroke with the force/push/power hand. Switching the=
roles of your hands (duties), during carving, is a test and learning exper=
ience, in and of itself.
Sonny
Edward A. Falk wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>,
> Edward A. Falk<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>More pics soon; I'm getting almost acceptable at it.
>
> I may do a little bit more polishing, but I'm pretty much finished.
>
> http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo138.jpg.html
>
>
We had a coffee table built in Catania, Sicily years ago. We asked
for Hearts and Daisys on the side panels. The carver did a great job.
On the flat background he filled it with impressed circles (like he
took a 30-30 shell and tapped it with a hammer). That makes it easier
than trying to sand it perfectly flat. And it looks good.
--
GW Ross
Any bad habit is easier to maintain
than the corresponding good habit.
On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 12:28:58 PM UTC-5, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> I've also ordered a couple of decent chisels from eBay; I hope they arri=
ve by the weekend.=20
Always look closely at the cutting edges of those Ebay chisels. Look close=
ly to make sure the edges haven't been ground to bare minimum or similar, i=
.e., little or greatly reduced decent edges remaining. Some sellers, not k=
nowing and/or wanting to simply sell the tools, grind bevels on both sides =
of the edge, also, for picture/show purposes.
Every now and then, I spot a garage sale with tools listed in the ad. Some=
decent chisels show up, once in a blue moon, at garage sales..... sometime=
s good sharpening tools, as well. Not very long ago, I picked up some cutt=
ing and sharpening tools from a clock maker's estate auction, listed among =
Craigslist garage sales.
On 4/12/2013 12:02 AM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> Any good on-line tutorials for woodcarving? I'm just getting started.
>
> My first attempt: http://i.imgur.com/Ys021s6.jpg
>
> First lesson learned: don't buy cheap chinese chisels. I already
> knew that, but I was in a hurry to get started. Next day, I went
> out and got a better set.
>
> How do you make the carved surfaces smooth? Mine are all lumpy
> and gouged. Do you just take small pieces of sand paper and work
> it in all the corners and stuff?
>
Ed,
This link: <http://www.tristatecarvers.com/link.html> has some useful
sites for woodcarvers, there are links to on-line tutorials at the
bottom of the page.
Neil
"Edward A. Falk" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
In article <[email protected]>,
Casper <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Great tools. One of my personal favorites. Not as thin or refined as
>some others, but they have taken anything I've thrown at them and keep
>going strong. It's easy to keep them sharp with a quick strop now and
>then while you work.
Interestingly, I thought I'd take a crack at sharpening the cheap-ass
Chinese chisels. I blunted the fishtail chisel pretty badly, but the
basic gouge and the cut-off chisel came out great; the gouge is now
better than the flexcut gouge. We'll see how long it keeps its edge,
though.
I wish there was such a thing as a "sharpening coach" -- someone to
watch me sharpen things and tell me what I'm doing wrong. I'm still
at the stage where I ruin as many blades as I sharpen.
Plus, I gouged the hell out of my favorite stone sharpening that
gouge :(
======================================================================================
Try stropping. Removes much less metal and can be done for quite some time
before having to use the stone. Most carvers use oil stones as waterstones
gouge to easily with narrow tools.
In article <[email protected]>,
Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>Edward A. Falk <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I have never carved and you are an expert compared to me. BUT from what I
>have always seen you use sharp tools and with lots of practice your cuts
>come out smooth.
Yeah, dumping the cheap chinese tools and getting a set of Flexcut
chisels made a world of difference.
Still need to figure out how to get the results nice and smooth.
Maybe a scraper plane?
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
John Grossbohlin <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>You may be able to find some of Mary May's pirated videos on-line... they
>show up occasionally but she told me that they generally don't stay long due
>to the copyright infringements. She has appeared on The Woodwright's Shop
>with Roy Underhill and I know that there are is at least one episode with
>her on the PBS web site.
Thanks. I'll see if I can find a legitimate source for the videos.
>Regarding the smoothness... looks like you are using pine.
Doug Fir, actually, but that's just for practicing. I'll be going with
Red Western Cedar for the real project.
I'm using brand-new Flexcut chisels which seem to be nice and sharp;
no tear-out that I can see.
Thanks for the links to the videos; I'll look for them.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>If you are right handed, you usually hold the chisel handle with your right hand and
>that hand/arm provides the force/push/power, for cutting. The left hand guides the
>chisel through the cut. In essence, it is the left hand doing the carving, dictating
>the carving stroke.
I actually figured that out instinctively while I was practicing the
other day. Dunno if I could switch hands, though. I'll give it a try.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Casper <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Check out Woodcarving Illustrated's websiteand forum. There you will
>find some wonderful carvings, carvers, tips, ideas and instruction.
>http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/
>
>I also recommend Lumberjocks for ideas and just plain cool stuff.
>http://lumberjocks.com/
Holy cow, it's like drinking from a fire hose. I'll be reading these
for days. Thanks.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Edward A. Falk <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I'm using brand-new Flexcut chisels which seem to be nice and sharp;
>no tear-out that I can see.
Update: I'm probably abusing them, but one gouge seems dull already;
time to dig out the sharpening stones. Results keep getting
better though.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Casper <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Great tools. One of my personal favorites. Not as thin or refined as
>some others, but they have taken anything I've thrown at them and keep
>going strong. It's easy to keep them sharp with a quick strop now and
>then while you work.
Interestingly, I thought I'd take a crack at sharpening the cheap-ass
Chinese chisels. I blunted the fishtail chisel pretty badly, but the
basic gouge and the cut-off chisel came out great; the gouge is now
better than the flexcut gouge. We'll see how long it keeps its edge,
though.
I wish there was such a thing as a "sharpening coach" -- someone to
watch me sharpen things and tell me what I'm doing wrong. I'm still
at the stage where I ruin as many blades as I sharpen.
Plus, I gouged the hell out of my favorite stone sharpening that
gouge :(
More pics soon; I'm getting almost acceptable at it.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
CW <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Plus, I gouged the hell out of my favorite stone sharpening that
>gouge :(
>======================================================================================
>Try stropping. Removes much less metal and can be done for quite some time
>before having to use the stone. Most carvers use oil stones as waterstones
>gouge to easily with narrow tools.
Thanks; I'll take your advice to heart.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Casper <[email protected]> wrote:
>>Edward A. Falk <[email protected]> wrote:
>>I'm using brand-new Flexcut chisels which seem to be nice and sharp;
>>no tear-out that I can see.
>
>Keep it going! And show us your work. ;)
Thanks. Here are two more:
http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo121.jpg.html
http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo122.jpg.html
Almost ready to carve the real thing.
http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo123.jpg.html
I still think the upper-right area could use some detail.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I don't know about online, but I would recommend getting Dick Onians' book "Essential
>Woodcarving Techniques".
I'm about 1/3 of the way through it now. Looks good. Obviously, I need
to take a few hours and actually do the exercises. I've also ordered
a couple of decent chisels from eBay; I hope they arrive by the weekend.
>Use sharp chisels and learn how to sharpen them.
Still working on that. Unfortunately, you can watch all the "how-to" videos
in the world, but in the end you just have to practice and practice, and
live with ruining a few tools along the way. Luckily, I have some expendable
cheap Chinese chisels.
Thanks for all your help, everybody.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
On 4/30/2013 12:28 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
...
> ... but in the end you just have to practice and practice, and
> live with ruining a few tools along the way. ...
Man, one would have to seriously work at it to actually "ruin" a tool
irreparably. Take some time to re-bevel and hone, maybe, but ruin????
How you gonna' do that?
--
In article <[email protected]>, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 4/30/2013 12:28 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
>
>Man, one would have to seriously work at it to actually "ruin" a tool
>irreparably.
True. I loaned one of my chisels to a contractor once, and by the time
he was done pounding on it, the edge was curled back so far that it
made a better cabinet scraper than chisel. I sharpened it from scratch
last weekend, and now you can shave with it.
My problem is that I suck at any sharpening operation that requires that
I hold the tool by hand. I made two of my cheap chisels very very
sharp, and totally blunted the third.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 12:28:58 PM UTC-5, Edward A. Falk wrote:
>> I've also ordered a couple of decent chisels from eBay; I hope they arrive by the weekend.
>
>Always look closely at the cutting edges of those Ebay chisels.
Allegedly, these are new chisels. I'll know in a few more days.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Edward A. Falk <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
>Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>>On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 12:28:58 PM UTC-5, Edward A. Falk wrote:
>>> I've also ordered a couple of decent chisels from eBay; I hope they arrive by the weekend.
>>
>>Always look closely at the cutting edges of those Ebay chisels.
>
>Allegedly, these are new chisels. I'll know in a few more days.
Not new, but not in terrible shape either. One had a pretty bad burr
that took some time to work out with a slip stone, but about half of
them are now quite sharp. I really did ruin the smallest V tool, but
the rest are probably still sharpenable once I have more practice.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Edward A. Falk <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>More pics soon; I'm getting almost acceptable at it.
I may do a little bit more polishing, but I'm pretty much finished.
http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo138.jpg.html
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
Edward A. Falk wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Edward A. Falk <[email protected]> wrote:
>> More pics soon; I'm getting almost acceptable at it.
> I may do a little bit more polishing, but I'm pretty much finished.
>
> http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo138.jpg.html
>
>
This looks like the type of support that I usually see in pairs, no?
Anyhow, nice job! Is the dragon fly glued-in?
Bill
In article <[email protected]>,
G. Ross <[email protected]> wrote:
>Edward A. Falk wrote:
>> In article<[email protected]>,
>> Edward A. Falk<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>More pics soon; I'm getting almost acceptable at it.
>>
>> I may do a little bit more polishing, but I'm pretty much finished.
>>
>> http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo138.jpg.html
>>
>>
>Looks good to me. Also looks like a lot of work.
Thanks.
Four months worth of weekends practicing. One weekend to do the actual
carving.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Monday, July 8, 2013 11:54:12 AM UTC-5, Edward A. Falk wrote:
>> >, Edward A. Falk > wrote: > >More pics soon; I'm getting almost acceptable at it. I
>may do a little bit more polishing, but I'm pretty much finished.
>http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo138.jpg.html -- -Ed Falk,
>http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
>
>That looks great. Overall, a very good job.
>
>I like this approach, that....
>You tell us what is good or bad about your work, then we'll reply.
>
>But I'll critique, now.
>Practice on making the inside of your flower leaves curved/concaved (hollowed inward)
>and making the exterior convex. Do a single leaf for this practice, with a short
>rounded stem. You've done one of those flowers this way, but the other/upper/larger one
>could use a little more work.
Thanks. The bottoms are fairly concave, but I guess not enough to show.
The tops are mostly flat as you've observed, but rounded at the sides;
I guess they could use more work too.
>Don't know where you will apply/install this mounting, but if you don't have to install
>it immediately, you might do some more practicing, then come back, later, and touch up
>this first piece.
I'm rather eager to continue the project of which this is really only
a small part, so I think I'll just do a bit more touchup and then call
it quits.
>To improve on the next project, or a retouch of this one:
>The rounding of the insect head and tail sections.... those look good; Maybe do this
>rounding on the flower's stamens.
OK, will do. The stamens have rounded edges, but you're right, the tops
are obviously flat.
Working on the small details is a bit tricky; this is very soft wood
and splits off if you look at it funny.
>rounding on the flower's stamens. I think the stamens will appear better, if rounded,
>than their present kinna flat appearance. See the "pea or shot moulding", page 56, and
>the "egg" in the egg and dart moulding, page 57, in your book, for help with making
>rounded carvings as these.
OK, will do.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Edward A. Falk wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> Edward A. Falk <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> More pics soon; I'm getting almost acceptable at it.
>> I may do a little bit more polishing, but I'm pretty much finished.
>>
>> http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo138.jpg.html
>>
>>
>This looks like the type of support that I usually see in pairs, no?
>Anyhow, nice job! Is the dragon fly glued-in?
Yes, the first one was finished a couple weeks ago. Didn't come
out as nice as this one, but maybe now I'll go back and touch it
up a bit.
You can see where they go in this (somewhat out of date) drawing:
http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo002.jpg.html
I've done some photorealistic renderings; I'll be posting them
pretty soon.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>
>Anyhow, nice job! Is the dragon fly glued-in?
Thanks!
The dragon fly is part of the carving; everything you see
was carved from a single piece of 3/4" cedar.
(Well one wingtip is glued in -- it broke off while I was
carving. Small details in soft wood are very delicate.)
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
Edward A. Falk wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Anyhow, nice job! Is the dragon fly glued-in?
> Thanks!
>
> The dragon fly is part of the carving; everything you see
> was carved from a single piece of 3/4" cedar.
>
> (Well one wingtip is glued in -- it broke off while I was
> carving. Small details in soft wood are very delicate.)
Your post actually stirred me enough to go off learning about dragonflys
for about an hour after I read your post. I thought it might be fun to
try to carve one--but a dragonfly may be more do-able as a relief
carving than "in the round".
Cheers,
Bill
>
In article <[email protected]>,
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Your post actually stirred me enough to go off learning about dragonflys
>for about an hour after I read your post. I thought it might be fun to
>try to carve one--but a dragonfly may be more do-able as a relief
>carving than "in the round".
I'm terminology-challenged -- what's the difference?
But yeah, I love them dragon flies. I might do a few in stained
glass for the windows as well.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
Edward A. Falk wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Your post actually stirred me enough to go off learning about dragonflys
>> for about an hour after I read your post. I thought it might be fun to
>> try to carve one--but a dragonfly may be more do-able as a relief
>> carving than "in the round".
> I'm terminology-challenged -- what's the difference?
Well, maybe not so much if you adequately secure the dragonfly to a
branch or something.I think a dragonfly-shaped carving by itself would
be very unstable considering grain direction. I think it would be
difficult to have
strength in the body AND in the wings too (as they are perpendicular).
I have only made 2 carvings so far, so you are way ahead of me in that
department.
I have enjoyed being interested in carving though. I'm a member of a
carving club, but sometimes I just go to the meetings and draw pictures.
Bill
>
> But yeah, I love them dragon flies. I might do a few in stained
> glass for the windows as well.
>
Edward A. Falk wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>,
> Edward A. Falk<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>More pics soon; I'm getting almost acceptable at it.
>
> I may do a little bit more polishing, but I'm pretty much finished.
>
> http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo138.jpg.html
>
>
Looks good to me. Also looks like a lot of work.
--
GW Ross
Any bad habit is easier to maintain
than the corresponding good habit.
On 4/30/2013 1:28 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> I don't know about online, but I would recommend getting Dick Onians' book "Essential
>> Woodcarving Techniques".
>
> I'm about 1/3 of the way through it now. Looks good. Obviously, I need
> to take a few hours and actually do the exercises. I've also ordered
> a couple of decent chisels from eBay; I hope they arrive by the weekend.
>
>> Use sharp chisels and learn how to sharpen them.
>
> Still working on that. Unfortunately, you can watch all the "how-to" videos
> in the world, but in the end you just have to practice and practice, and
> live with ruining a few tools along the way. Luckily, I have some expendable
> cheap Chinese chisels.
>
> Thanks for all your help, everybody.
>
Ed,
This is a link to the Tomz Knife Massager, made by Tom Ellis from
Spokane, WA.
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3AC1bwm68U>
Neil
On Mon, 8 Jul 2013 16:54:12 +0000 (UTC), [email protected] (Edward A.
Falk) wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
>Edward A. Falk <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>More pics soon; I'm getting almost acceptable at it.
>
>I may do a little bit more polishing, but I'm pretty much finished.
>
>http://www.efalk.org/Vardo/bigs/vardo138.jpg.html
Hey, those flowers look like vag...... Never mind.
[email protected] (Edward A. Falk) was heard to mutter:
>Any good on-line tutorials for woodcarving? I'm just getting started.
>
>My first attempt: http://i.imgur.com/Ys021s6.jpg
>
>First lesson learned: don't buy cheap chinese chisels. I already
>knew that, but I was in a hurry to get started. Next day, I went
>out and got a better set.
>
>How do you make the carved surfaces smooth? Mine are all lumpy
>and gouged. Do you just take small pieces of sand paper and work
>it in all the corners and stuff?
Check out Woodcarving Illustrated's websiteand forum. There you will
find some wonderful carvings, carvers, tips, ideas and instruction.
http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/
I also recommend Lumberjocks for ideas and just plain cool stuff.
http://lumberjocks.com/