I'm trying to cut a handle (square rectangle rounded at both ends) in a
board. I was doing this with a 1" spade bit. Basically I was cutting
three holes, one in the center and one on each side, then cutting out
the sides with a jig saw. I keep measuring where to put the center of
the buit but it's off a little each time, in other words the holes don't
line up perfectly. Granted, we're talking the width of a dull pencil
point but it's driving me a little nuts.
Is there a drill press jig that might help on this or do I just need to
do the same thing but more carefull?
Thanks,
Richard
Richard A. wrote:
> I'm trying to cut a handle (square rectangle rounded at both ends) in a
> board. I was doing this with a 1" spade bit. Basically I was cutting
> three holes, one in the center and one on each side, then cutting out
> the sides with a jig saw. I keep measuring where to put the center of
> the buit but it's off a little each time, in other words the holes don't
> line up perfectly. Granted, we're talking the width of a dull pencil
> point but it's driving me a little nuts.
>
> Is there a drill press jig that might help on this or do I just need to
> do the same thing but more carefull?
>
> Thanks,
> Richard
Wow, what a great bunch of responces. Thanks much for all the tips.
It's nice to know it might not be just me. I'll be using all the
advice, get a proper tool and build a jig.
Thanks again,
Richard
Richard A. wrote:
> I'm trying to cut a handle (square rectangle rounded at both ends) in a
> board. I was doing this with a 1" spade bit. Basically I was cutting
> three holes, one in the center and one on each side, then cutting out
> the sides with a jig saw. I keep measuring where to put the center of
> the buit but it's off a little each time, in other words the holes don't
> line up perfectly. Granted, we're talking the width of a dull pencil
> point but it's driving me a little nuts.
>
> Is there a drill press jig that might help on this or do I just need to
> do the same thing but more carefull?
>
> Thanks,
> Richard
Spade bits are rarely straight. If you spin the drill chuck by hand you
will probably see the tip of the bit wobble as it rotates. The worst
thing you can do is hold the work piece rigid. Try drilling pilot holes
with a normal twist drill bit that is slightly larger than the width of
the tip of the spade bit and then, using a slow speed on your drill
press, drill into the workpiece with your spade bit letting your
workpiece 'float' so that it wobbles along with the spade bit. Your
hole positioning will be a lot more reliable.
Others advised about forstner bits and this is the best choice if you
want 'round' holes with good edge finish but if you're just gouging out
wood then spades will work if you know their limitations.
TWS
"Richard A." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Is there a drill press jig that might help on this or do I just need to do
> the same thing but more carefull?
Make a simple fence. It can be as simple as a strip of 3/4" plywood with
two holes drilled in it. Use wing nuts and bolts to hold it in place. One
lined up for the first hole, it is simple to repeat.
FWIW, most spade bits I've ever used are crap. Forstner bits or hole saw
work better.
GerryG wrote:
>>TWS wrote:
>>The worst
>>
>>>thing you can do is hold the work piece rigid.
>
> I'll take issue with that one. First, if your bit is that bent, IMHO you
> should toss it. Second, once the wings of the spade bit have cut in, any
> wobble is restricted. Third, I'd really like the workpiece to stay where it
> is, rather than my having to duck out of the way.
> GerryG
>
The original poster stated that the wobble was the width of a dull
pencil - you'll be tossing quite a few spade bits if you consider this
unacceptable tolerance. My suggestion was to let the workpiece "float"
with the drill running at slow speed. I didn't suggest having the
workpiece totally unconstrained. There are several ways to keep the
workpiece from rotating without holding it rigid so you won't have to
"duck out of the way". The nice thing about spade bits is that they
don't grab and lift the workpiece like twist or brad point drill bits
do. You simply need to keep the workpiece from rotating.
TWS
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Richard A." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> Is there a drill press jig that might help on this or do I just need to do
>> the same thing but more carefull?
>
>Make a simple fence. It can be as simple as a strip of 3/4" plywood with
>two holes drilled in it. Use wing nuts and bolts to hold it in place. One
>lined up for the first hole, it is simple to repeat.
Even simpler, any straight scrap clamped to your table. Clamping your
work piece may also help keep things in line, especially with a spade
bit.
Well, "floating" could be taken many ways by many people. And his wobble was
only a "...dull pencil point", which I didn't say was not acceptable. But
with your further explanation below, I don't have an issue with what you mean.
An alternative is to use the pilot hole you also suggested, and position and
slightly seat the bit there before starting the drill. I tend to do that, with
the piece locked down to the fence/table, and positioned under the bit. For
the best accuracy I use a starting drill for the pilot. With a few spade bits,
I'll have to manually rotate until the bit is directly over the pilot. Not a
disagreement, just an alternative.
GerryG
On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 04:47:51 GMT, TWS <[email protected]> wrote:
>GerryG wrote:
>>>TWS wrote:
>>>The worst
>>>
>>>>thing you can do is hold the work piece rigid.
>>
>> I'll take issue with that one. First, if your bit is that bent, IMHO you
>> should toss it. Second, once the wings of the spade bit have cut in, any
>> wobble is restricted. Third, I'd really like the workpiece to stay where it
>> is, rather than my having to duck out of the way.
>> GerryG
>>
>
>The original poster stated that the wobble was the width of a dull
>pencil - you'll be tossing quite a few spade bits if you consider this
>unacceptable tolerance. My suggestion was to let the workpiece "float"
>with the drill running at slow speed. I didn't suggest having the
>workpiece totally unconstrained. There are several ways to keep the
>workpiece from rotating without holding it rigid so you won't have to
>"duck out of the way". The nice thing about spade bits is that they
>don't grab and lift the workpiece like twist or brad point drill bits
>do. You simply need to keep the workpiece from rotating.
>
>TWS
>TWS wrote:
>The worst
>>thing you can do is hold the work piece rigid.
I'll take issue with that one. First, if your bit is that bent, IMHO you
should toss it. Second, once the wings of the spade bit have cut in, any
wobble is restricted. Third, I'd really like the workpiece to stay where it
is, rather than my having to duck out of the way.
GerryG
On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 00:21:19 GMT, TWS <[email protected]> wrote:
>Richard A. wrote:
>
>> I'm trying to cut a handle (square rectangle rounded at both ends) in a
>> board. I was doing this with a 1" spade bit. Basically I was cutting
>> three holes, one in the center and one on each side, then cutting out
>> the sides with a jig saw. I keep measuring where to put the center of
>> the buit but it's off a little each time, in other words the holes don't
>> line up perfectly. Granted, we're talking the width of a dull pencil
>> point but it's driving me a little nuts.
>>
>> Is there a drill press jig that might help on this or do I just need to
>> do the same thing but more carefull?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Richard
>Spade bits are rarely straight. If you spin the drill chuck by hand you
>will probably see the tip of the bit wobble as it rotates. The worst
>thing you can do is hold the work piece rigid. Try drilling pilot holes
>with a normal twist drill bit that is slightly larger than the width of
>the tip of the spade bit and then, using a slow speed on your drill
>press, drill into the workpiece with your spade bit letting your
>workpiece 'float' so that it wobbles along with the spade bit. Your
>hole positioning will be a lot more reliable.
>
>Others advised about forstner bits and this is the best choice if you
>want 'round' holes with good edge finish but if you're just gouging out
>wood then spades will work if you know their limitations.
>
>TWS
As others have said, a fence or constant spacer is one thing needed. The other
item is often more difficult: a straight spade bit. It's very difficult these
day to buy good spade bits. You can try checking yours out, and you may find
it's off enough to cause your problem. A forstner or sawtooth bit would do a
much better job (although at ten times the cost). A cheaper possibility might
be a hole saw, if the material's not too thick.
GerryG
On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 20:58:24 -0500, "Richard A." <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm trying to cut a handle (square rectangle rounded at both ends) in a
>board. I was doing this with a 1" spade bit. Basically I was cutting
>three holes, one in the center and one on each side, then cutting out
>the sides with a jig saw. I keep measuring where to put the center of
>the buit but it's off a little each time, in other words the holes don't
>line up perfectly. Granted, we're talking the width of a dull pencil
>point but it's driving me a little nuts.
>
>Is there a drill press jig that might help on this or do I just need to
>do the same thing but more carefull?
>
>Thanks,
>Richard
"Richard A." writes:
> I'm trying to cut a handle (square rectangle rounded at both ends) in a
> board. I was doing this with a 1" spade bit. Basically I was cutting
> three holes, one in the center and one on each side, then cutting out
> the sides with a jig saw. I keep measuring where to put the center of
> the buit but it's off a little each time, in other words the holes don't
> line up perfectly. Granted, we're talking the width of a dull pencil
> point but it's driving me a little nuts.
>
> Is there a drill press jig that might help on this or do I just need to
> do the same thing but more carefull?
You are in a damned if you do, damned if you don't situation.
Trying to keep a spade bit centered in this application is a real bear.
Try a forstner bit.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
Richard A. wrote:
> I'm trying to cut a handle (square rectangle rounded at both ends) in a
> board. I was doing this with a 1" spade bit. Basically I was cutting
> three holes, one in the center and one on each side, then cutting out
> the sides with a jig saw. I keep measuring where to put the center of
> the buit but it's off a little each time, in other words the holes don't
> line up perfectly. Granted, we're talking the width of a dull pencil
> point but it's driving me a little nuts.
>
> Is there a drill press jig that might help on this or do I just need to
> do the same thing but more carefull?
>
> Thanks,
> Richard
I always drill one hole, then turn the press off and use the depth stop spun
around the opposite side to hold the drill down. Then I clamp a scrap
piece behind the part I'm drilling then release the drill and slide the
wood to be drilled back and forth along the scrap to drill the rest of the
holes.