[email protected] writes:
>
>I *think* she was saying that her new saw doesn't have much clearance
>under
>the motor overhang Mike. Thus if she is trying to cut full depth, the
>motor
>would drag on the guide piece.
That's exactly what I meant. Thank you. Fortunately, mendoc (Frank?)
knew what I meant and guided me to a page that was very precise regarding
construction. (And congrats on using a Mac!)
>
>
>I have 2 guides, both 8'. One for older Craftsman RH blade, made of 1/4"
>masonite base & 1x4 guide piece. The other is for my PC LH blade, both
>base
>and guide are 1/2" plywood.
Just out of curiosity, why did you make one out of both plywood pieces?
Since I've not made mine yet, it might make a difference in what I do. I
understood the hardboard/masonite was for the extra durability of it, that
it would stay true better for the saw blade to follow. Could it be so
simple as to be a contrast to the wood for the visible reference of
ensuring the blade is not "wandering?"
[email protected] writes:
>
>Been there, done that. You can use the 1/4", but I like 1/2". The primary
>reason for the thicker material is to reduce flex in the guide when you
>move it
>around, and to reduce sideways flex when you push the saw against the
>edge. The
>latter is seldom a real problem, since the guide is...well, a guide, not a
>bridge abutment.
So, if I'm understanding correctly, the 1/4" hardboard/masonite on the
bottom with the 1/2" Russian birch as the top piece should work well,
correct?
>Some people prefer to use aluminum for the guide strip, by the
>way. And if I can find a sane local source of 1/4" aluminum, I may do
>that for
>my next one. By sane, I mean reasonable in price and 9' long.
Where would one find a strip of aluminum for this purpose? That would be
my preference as it would take up less room and certainly it wouldn't get
sawn accidently (by others or by me) as well as not being subject to
moisture. (Of course, moisture isn't an issue 100 miles inland from the
ocean!)
Glenna