I am enclosing my 1200 square foot pole barn and plan to use the space
for my wood shop. I covered the concrete floor with a vapor barrier and
3/4 T&G plywood, intending to paint the floor.
I partitioned off about 300 square feet for storage. Needing the space
rather badly, I painted that room, including the floor, and installed
lighting as soon as I could. I've painted the walls and ceiling in the
rest of the building, but I decided to put off painting the floor until
all of the electrical work was done (I'm installing a new service, and
all of the interior wiring is surface mounted in conduit). That work is
almost complete.
It has now been about three months since I painted the storage room. I
used top of the line Sherwin Williams latex products, including a flat
floor paint. I applied the floor paint as directed, in two coats, using
a roller. I'm disappointed with the floor, and now that the time to
paint the rest of the floor is near, I'm wondering what to do.
The floor in the storage room looks okay, but it is still tacky. The
"grab" is very noticeable on items left on the floor for more than a few
minutes, particularly plastic feet (like those on my step ladder).
Things with plastic or rubber feet or wheels left in place for a
substantial amount of time (a week or more) do tend to leave a mark. It
does not look like the paint is lifting. I know that latex paints can
take a long time to fully cure, but three months seems rather long.
Suffice it to say, I am not very enthusiastic about putting my wood
working machinery on a tacky floor.
My primary objective in painting the floor is to make it easier to keep
clean. The bare plywood near the entrance is already starting to look
dirty, and its not going to be easy to clean it, short of sanding.
A friend suggested an epoxy paint, like that sold for concrete garage
and basement floors. But that stuff is really expensive, as are the
two-part urethane products used on high traffic wood floors (like
gymnasiums). If I wanted to spend that much money, I'd go for a hardwood
floor or maybe one of the interlocking plastic tile systems. But I
don't.
Quite some time ago I refinished a red oak strip floor with a water
based polyurethane. I don't remember having any issues with that finish
drying - I'm pretty sure I'd remember if it took more than a few days to
dry tack-free. So I am considering putting down the S-W floor paint, and
covering it with a coat or two of water based polyurethane. Does that
seem like a reasonable plan? If not, what are the alternatives?
I have not yet consulted the folks at the S-W store, but I will before
making a final decision.
--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net
Art Greenberg wrote:
> I am enclosing my 1200 square foot pole barn and plan to use the space
> for my wood shop. I covered the concrete floor with a vapor barrier and
> 3/4 T&G plywood, intending to paint the floor.
>
> I partitioned off about 300 square feet for storage. Needing the space
> rather badly, I painted that room, including the floor, and installed
> lighting as soon as I could. I've painted the walls and ceiling in the
> rest of the building, but I decided to put off painting the floor until
> all of the electrical work was done (I'm installing a new service, and
> all of the interior wiring is surface mounted in conduit). That work is
> almost complete.
>
> It has now been about three months since I painted the storage room. I
> used top of the line Sherwin Williams latex products, including a flat
> floor paint. I applied the floor paint as directed, in two coats, using
> a roller. I'm disappointed with the floor, and now that the time to
> paint the rest of the floor is near, I'm wondering what to do.
>
> The floor in the storage room looks okay, but it is still tacky. The
> "grab" is very noticeable on items left on the floor for more than a few
> minutes, particularly plastic feet (like those on my step ladder).
> Things with plastic or rubber feet or wheels left in place for a
> substantial amount of time (a week or more) do tend to leave a mark. It
> does not look like the paint is lifting. I know that latex paints can
> take a long time to fully cure, but three months seems rather long.
>
> Suffice it to say, I am not very enthusiastic about putting my wood
> working machinery on a tacky floor.
>
> My primary objective in painting the floor is to make it easier to keep
> clean. The bare plywood near the entrance is already starting to look
> dirty, and its not going to be easy to clean it, short of sanding.
>
> A friend suggested an epoxy paint, like that sold for concrete garage
> and basement floors. But that stuff is really expensive, as are the
> two-part urethane products used on high traffic wood floors (like
> gymnasiums). If I wanted to spend that much money, I'd go for a hardwood
> floor or maybe one of the interlocking plastic tile systems. But I
> don't.
>
> Quite some time ago I refinished a red oak strip floor with a water
> based polyurethane. I don't remember having any issues with that finish
> drying - I'm pretty sure I'd remember if it took more than a few days to
> dry tack-free. So I am considering putting down the S-W floor paint, and
> covering it with a coat or two of water based polyurethane. Does that
> seem like a reasonable plan? If not, what are the alternatives?
>
> I have not yet consulted the folks at the S-W store, but I will before
> making a final decision.
>
Sounds like it will be a nice shop.
Our workshop (much smaller) has plywood floors. We left them bare. I
think as it is used it will wear smoother making it easier to clean -
but then I am not bothered - call it "rustic".
Latex breathes better than oil. Oil will block more vapor exchange and
possibly cause bubbling on the paint if a lot of vapor is trying to seep
through from the other side - while latex will let it through easier.
3 months isn't to long to really cure. It is suggested to leave lacquer
finishes about 3 months before finishing them to make sure all the
curing/shrinking is finished.
--
Michael Joel
parksfamily2 ------ ---- --- gmail ----- ----- com
replace dashes with correct symbols
On Wed, 29 Feb 2012 14:28:51 -0600, dpb wrote:
> I'd wonder if this area was heated and about the temperature while it
> was drying after application and the surface temperature when applied.
In Florida. Temperature outside at the time we painted was in the 70s,
and inside the building never got much below that. I'm more inclined to
think humidity would be a larger issue, especially since the building is
pretty tight. We did run a fan and kept the windows open, but that did
not seem to help.
> I'd call S-W first thing (actually, I'd have called them about 2 months
> & 3 weeks ago if it hadn't dried) and get their input.
I'm not going to bother to try to fix what is down, its a storage area
and I'm hopeful the paint will eventually loose its tackiness.
I am much more concerned with what to do for the as yet unpainted floor.
I will ask S-W before I attempt to apply that same paint, or any other
S-W product.
> For new area I'd probably paint but use an oil-based instead of latex
> simply because I'd expect it to be both harder and have a
> slicker/smoother surface for the cleaning purposes and to stand up
> better to stuff like spilled stains, etc., than the latex.
>
> --
That's a possibility, too. I'm not fond of cleaning the tools after
applying oil based paints, but I think I can afford to throw away a
couple of rollers.
--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net
Maybe not too helpful. I painted my concrete basement floor with
latex paint. Lucite Satin wall paint. Cheap at Menards. It dried
just fine in a day or two. Something is wrong at your place.
On Feb 29, 2:16=A0pm, Art Greenberg <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am enclosing my 1200 square foot pole barn and plan to use the space
> for my wood shop. I covered the concrete floor with a vapor barrier and
> 3/4 T&G plywood, intending to paint the floor.
>
> I partitioned off about 300 square feet for storage. Needing the space
> rather badly, I painted that room, including the floor, and installed
> lighting as soon as I could. I've painted the walls and ceiling in the
> rest of the building, but I decided to put off painting the floor until
> all of the electrical work was done (I'm installing a new service, and
> all of the interior wiring is surface mounted in conduit). That work is
> almost complete.
>
> It has now been about three months since I painted the storage room. I
> used top of the line Sherwin Williams latex products, including a flat
> floor paint. I applied the floor paint as directed, in two coats, using
> a roller. I'm disappointed with the floor, and now that the time to
> paint the rest of the floor is near, I'm wondering what to do.
>
> The floor in the storage room looks okay, but it is still tacky. The
> "grab" is very noticeable on items left on the floor for more than a few
> minutes, particularly plastic feet (like those on my step ladder).
> Things with plastic or rubber feet or wheels left in place for a
> substantial amount of time (a week or more) do tend to leave a mark. It
> does not look like the paint is lifting. I know that latex paints can
> take a long time to fully cure, but three months seems rather long.
>
> Suffice it to say, I am not very enthusiastic about putting my wood
> working machinery on a tacky floor.
>
> My primary objective in painting the floor is to make it easier to keep
> clean. The bare plywood near the entrance is already starting to look
> dirty, and its not going to be easy to clean it, short of sanding.
>
> A friend suggested an epoxy paint, like that sold for concrete garage
> and basement floors. But that stuff is really expensive, as are the
> two-part urethane products used on high traffic wood floors (like
> gymnasiums). If I wanted to spend that much money, I'd go for a hardwood
> floor or maybe one of the interlocking plastic tile systems. But I
> don't.
>
> Quite some time ago I refinished a red oak strip floor with a water
> based polyurethane. I don't remember having any issues with that finish
> drying - I'm pretty sure I'd remember if it took more than a few days to
> dry tack-free. So I am considering putting down the S-W floor paint, and
> covering it with a coat or two of water based polyurethane. Does that
> seem like a reasonable plan? If not, what are the alternatives?
>
> I have not yet consulted the folks at the S-W store, but I will before
> making a final decision.
>
> --
> Art Greenberg
> artg at eclipse dot net
On 2/29/2012 3:16 PM, Art Greenberg wrote:
> I am enclosing my 1200 square foot pole barn and plan to use the space
> for my wood shop. I covered the concrete floor with a vapor barrier and
> 3/4 T&G plywood, intending to paint the floor.
>
> I partitioned off about 300 square feet for storage. Needing the space
> rather badly, I painted that room, including the floor, and installed
> lighting as soon as I could. I've painted the walls and ceiling in the
> rest of the building, but I decided to put off painting the floor until
> all of the electrical work was done (I'm installing a new service, and
> all of the interior wiring is surface mounted in conduit). That work is
> almost complete.
>
> It has now been about three months since I painted the storage room. I
> used top of the line Sherwin Williams latex products, including a flat
> floor paint. I applied the floor paint as directed, in two coats, using
> a roller. I'm disappointed with the floor, and now that the time to
> paint the rest of the floor is near, I'm wondering what to do.
>
> The floor in the storage room looks okay, but it is still tacky. The
> "grab" is very noticeable on items left on the floor for more than a few
> minutes, particularly plastic feet (like those on my step ladder).
> Things with plastic or rubber feet or wheels left in place for a
> substantial amount of time (a week or more) do tend to leave a mark. It
> does not look like the paint is lifting. I know that latex paints can
> take a long time to fully cure, but three months seems rather long.
>
> Suffice it to say, I am not very enthusiastic about putting my wood
> working machinery on a tacky floor.
>
> My primary objective in painting the floor is to make it easier to keep
> clean. The bare plywood near the entrance is already starting to look
> dirty, and its not going to be easy to clean it, short of sanding.
>
> A friend suggested an epoxy paint, like that sold for concrete garage
> and basement floors. But that stuff is really expensive, as are the
> two-part urethane products used on high traffic wood floors (like
> gymnasiums). If I wanted to spend that much money, I'd go for a hardwood
> floor or maybe one of the interlocking plastic tile systems. But I
> don't.
>
> Quite some time ago I refinished a red oak strip floor with a water
> based polyurethane. I don't remember having any issues with that finish
> drying - I'm pretty sure I'd remember if it took more than a few days to
> dry tack-free. So I am considering putting down the S-W floor paint, and
> covering it with a coat or two of water based polyurethane. Does that
> seem like a reasonable plan? If not, what are the alternatives?
>
> I have not yet consulted the folks at the S-W store, but I will before
> making a final decision.
From painting my concrete basement floor with latex floor paint it
takes at least a month to fully cure, the stuff is really thick. Try
running a box fan or two on the painted area, leave it blow for a few
days on low to at least cure the surface. After a month mop it with a
mild detergent and hot water. That seems to seal the surface and prevent
things sticking to it.
After painting, use a box fan on low to help dry and don't walk on it
for 24 hours. For a week or so, no hard shoes and no bare feet, sox or
sneakers only. Hard shoes scuff it and bare feet litterally stick and
pull the paint up.
The only benefit I can see using latex floor paint is no fumes,
otherwise it doesn't compare in any way to oil based. It certainly
doesn't wear any where near as well and takes longer to fully cure. I
doubt you will like it in a shop, something harder would work much better.
Also, once water base is put down you are stuck with it forever, you
can't put oil over top latex.
John
On 2/29/2012 2:16 PM, Art Greenberg wrote:
...
> It has now been about three months since I painted the storage room. I
> used top of the line Sherwin Williams latex products, including a flat
> floor paint. I applied the floor paint as directed, in two coats, using
> a roller. I'm disappointed with the floor, and now that the time to
> paint the rest of the floor is near, I'm wondering what to do.
>
> The floor in the storage room looks okay, but it is still tacky. The
> "grab" is very noticeable on items left on the floor for more than a few
> minutes, particularly plastic feet (like those on my step ladder).
> Things with plastic or rubber feet or wheels left in place for a
> substantial amount of time (a week or more) do tend to leave a mark. It
> does not look like the paint is lifting. I know that latex paints can
> take a long time to fully cure, but three months seems rather long.
...
I'd wonder if this area was heated and about the temperature while it
was drying after application and the surface temperature when applied.
I'd call S-W first thing (actually, I'd have called them about 2 months
& 3 weeks ago if it hadn't dried) and get their input.
For new area I'd probably paint but use an oil-based instead of latex
simply because I'd expect it to be both harder and have a
slicker/smoother surface for the cleaning purposes and to stand up
better to stuff like spilled stains, etc., than the latex.
--
Art Greenberg wrote:
> Quite some time ago I refinished a red oak strip floor with a water
> based polyurethane. I don't remember having any issues with that
> finish drying - I'm pretty sure I'd remember if it took more than a
> few days to dry tack-free. So I am considering putting down the S-W
> floor paint, and covering it with a coat or two of water based
> polyurethane. Does that seem like a reasonable plan? If not, what are
> the alternatives?
Skip the latex and use polyurethane "porch & floor" paint. Home Depot
carries it, surely Lowes too; not much color choice - white & greys -
various sheens, about $25/gallon.
My shop got gloss white 16 years ago, still pretty good but could use
re-painting (mostly because of glue and other assorted stuff dripping on it.
Personallly, I would have skipped the ply and painted the concrete as ply -
pine/fir rotary cut ply - is impossible to paint without the grain showing
through. Maybe a climate thing though, I'm in Florida.
To fix the sticky latex you have, the water poly will work. Use more than
one coat though. IMO, latex is good for sheet rock, exterior walls and
trim, not much else.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Thu, 1 Mar 2012 07:27:21 -0500, dadiOH wrote:
> Skip the latex and use polyurethane "porch & floor" paint. Home Depot
> carries it, surely Lowes too; not much color choice - white & greys -
> various sheens, about $25/gallon.
Thanks for the suggestion. Grey is fine, that's what the SW floor paint
is.
> My shop got gloss white 16 years ago, still pretty good but could use
> re-painting (mostly because of glue and other assorted stuff dripping on it.
>
> Personallly, I would have skipped the ply and painted the concrete as ply -
> pine/fir rotary cut ply - is impossible to paint without the grain showing
> through. Maybe a climate thing though, I'm in Florida.
I'm in Florida, near Gainesville. We extended the barn floor with a new
pour, so we had a mix of old and new concrete. I didn't want to hassle
with etching the new part to prep for paint. I think plywood will be
more comfortable under foot, and I'm not all that concerned with the
grain showing through. The part of the floor that is painted looks fine,
its just the tackiness that bothers me.
> To fix the sticky latex you have, the water poly will work. Use more than
> one coat though. IMO, latex is good for sheet rock, exterior walls and
> trim, not much else.
I'll compare the cost of a couple of overcoats to the poly floor paint
and see which will work best for me.
--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net
On Wed, 29 Feb 2012 16:40:00 -0500, Michael Joel wrote:
> Sounds like it will be a nice shop.
Thanks. Sort of a dream shop for me. Before moving here, my shop was in
the basement. Now I'll have more room, both horizontally and vertically.
> Our workshop (much smaller) has plywood floors. We left them bare. I
> think as it is used it will wear smoother making it easier to clean -
> but then I am not bothered - call it "rustic".
>
> Latex breathes better than oil. Oil will block more vapor exchange and
> possibly cause bubbling on the paint if a lot of vapor is trying to seep
> through from the other side - while latex will let it through easier.
I hope water vapor isn't an issue. I have 6 mil plastic and 30 pound
felt paper under the plywood, there shouldn't be much of anything
getting through that, except maybe around the tapcons I used to hold the
plywood down.
> 3 months isn't to long to really cure. It is suggested to leave lacquer
> finishes about 3 months before finishing them to make sure all the
> curing/shrinking is finished.
Ugh. Not exactly great for a floor that I am hoping to put to use before
summer arrives.
Thanks for your input!
--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net
First Talk to Sherwin Williams and find out what went wrong.
Epoxy might work, but understand that epoxy is a very hard finish.
Depending on the flex you have and the type of epoxy you choose, they
should match. Not all epoxy is meant for major flex. So choose something
that matches your needs. The paint stores do know which is going to work.
I would still hit up Sherwin Williams, they generally know paint, and if
your existing paint didn't work, it might be how you prepped it, or laid
it down, or even when you laid it down... ie High Humidity with oil
bases doesn't work great... usually what you describe results.
On 2/29/2012 3:16 PM, Art Greenberg wrote:
> I am enclosing my 1200 square foot pole barn and plan to use the space
> for my wood shop. I covered the concrete floor with a vapor barrier and
> 3/4 T&G plywood, intending to paint the floor.
>
> I partitioned off about 300 square feet for storage. Needing the space
> rather badly, I painted that room, including the floor, and installed
> lighting as soon as I could. I've painted the walls and ceiling in the
> rest of the building, but I decided to put off painting the floor until
> all of the electrical work was done (I'm installing a new service, and
> all of the interior wiring is surface mounted in conduit). That work is
> almost complete.
>
> It has now been about three months since I painted the storage room. I
> used top of the line Sherwin Williams latex products, including a flat
> floor paint. I applied the floor paint as directed, in two coats, using
> a roller. I'm disappointed with the floor, and now that the time to
> paint the rest of the floor is near, I'm wondering what to do.
>
> The floor in the storage room looks okay, but it is still tacky. The
> "grab" is very noticeable on items left on the floor for more than a few
> minutes, particularly plastic feet (like those on my step ladder).
> Things with plastic or rubber feet or wheels left in place for a
> substantial amount of time (a week or more) do tend to leave a mark. It
> does not look like the paint is lifting. I know that latex paints can
> take a long time to fully cure, but three months seems rather long.
>
> Suffice it to say, I am not very enthusiastic about putting my wood
> working machinery on a tacky floor.
>
> My primary objective in painting the floor is to make it easier to keep
> clean. The bare plywood near the entrance is already starting to look
> dirty, and its not going to be easy to clean it, short of sanding.
>
> A friend suggested an epoxy paint, like that sold for concrete garage
> and basement floors. But that stuff is really expensive, as are the
> two-part urethane products used on high traffic wood floors (like
> gymnasiums). If I wanted to spend that much money, I'd go for a hardwood
> floor or maybe one of the interlocking plastic tile systems. But I
> don't.
>
> Quite some time ago I refinished a red oak strip floor with a water
> based polyurethane. I don't remember having any issues with that finish
> drying - I'm pretty sure I'd remember if it took more than a few days to
> dry tack-free. So I am considering putting down the S-W floor paint, and
> covering it with a coat or two of water based polyurethane. Does that
> seem like a reasonable plan? If not, what are the alternatives?
>
> I have not yet consulted the folks at the S-W store, but I will before
> making a final decision.
>