I am planning on putting in some laminate flooring very soon and also
needed something to do some cuts for building some shelving. I am
planning on putting in the DuPont laminate flooring.
I am just starting to build my collection of power tools (YEAH!). So I
thought I would ask the experts their opinion as to whether or not I
made the right decision.
I bought a Ridged 10" Compound Miter saw.
The decision for this is that for one the guy at HD said that the 10"
Miter would be enough to cut the flooring.
Second, I am doing 45 degree cuts and was looking for some accuracy. I
thought about a table saw, but felt that I would get better cuts with
the miter. Am I correct in this thought?
I have a feeling the Miter may not be enough for the flooring, am I
right? Is there an "All-In-One" tool that would be better for the
flooring, or was I right in purchasing the miter, but I will also have
to purchase something else?
Thanks!
On Oct 22, 4:37 pm, FrozenNorth <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Oct 22, 3:16 pm, FrozenNorth <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > [email protected] took a can of maroon spray paint on October 22,
> > 2007 04:07 pm and wrote the following:
>
> > > I am planning on putting in some laminate flooring very soon and also
> > > needed something to do some cuts for building some shelving. I am
> > > planning on putting in the DuPont laminate flooring.
>
> > > I am just starting to build my collection of power tools (YEAH!). So I
> > > thought I would ask the experts their opinion as to whether or not I
> > > made the right decision.
>
> > > I bought a Ridged 10" Compound Miter saw.
>
> > > The decision for this is that for one the guy at HD said that the 10"
> > > Miter would be enough to cut the flooring.
> > > Second, I am doing 45 degree cuts and was looking for some accuracy. I
> > > thought about a table saw, but felt that I would get better cuts with
> > > the miter. Am I correct in this thought?
>
> > > I have a feeling the Miter may not be enough for the flooring, am I
> > > right? Is there an "All-In-One" tool that would be better for the
> > > flooring, or was I right in purchasing the miter, but I will also have
> > > to purchase something else?
>
> > > Thanks!
>
> > Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put
> down
> > a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90 degrees,
> > never mind at 45, I just used a circular saw and a jig saw for some of the
> > odd cuts..
>
> > Just posted a picture in abpw, before reading this post, it does show the
> > flooring.
>
> <quote emailed message>
> How wide were the planks that you were cutting? Do you wish you got
> the 12" Miter instead?
>
> BTW - I am unaware of abpw. Could you give me a link?
> </unquote>
>
> Please respond to the group, not via email, unless you may think you know
> me.
>
> 8" wide boards, my 10" CMS will cut to about 7 1/2, or a bit more, i.e it
> will cut a 2x6, but fails on a 2x8, I just bring out my circular saw for
> those cuts.
>
> alt.binaries,pictures.woodworking, I notice you are a google groups poster,
> you will not be able to find it, you will need a real usenet account.
>
> --
> Lits Slut #9
> Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I am really sorry for responding to you via email. I clicked on the
wrong link. I am using google because it is easier while at work... I
will jump on there and take a look though.
Thanks
On Oct 22, 8:30 pm, "Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> You might want to go with the 12". However you will want to use a good
> carbide tipped blade with at least 60 teeth. I do stress carbide tipped,
> otherwise the flooring will eat up the blade very quickly.
And even then, you're going to be wearing out a lot of
blades very quickly. The substrate might be cardboard,
but the finish is some sort of very hard ceramic impregnated
resin. I've never seen a blade light up at the contact point
when cutting wood products.
On Oct 23, 12:11 am, Steve <[email protected]> wrote:
> Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote on 22 Oct 2007 in group
> rec.woodworking:
>
> > On Oct 22, 8:30 pm, "Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> You might want to go with the 12". However you will want to use a
> >> good carbide tipped blade with at least 60 teeth. I do stress
> >> carbide tipped, otherwise the flooring will eat up the blade very
> >> quickly.
>
> > And even then, you're going to be wearing out a lot of
> > blades very quickly. The substrate might be cardboard,
> > but the finish is some sort of very hard ceramic impregnated
> > resin. I've never seen a blade light up at the contact point
> > when cutting wood products.
>
> Most of those hard finishes contain aluminum oxide -- the same thing
> that's on the high-end sandpaper. I wore down a good blade on that stuff
> to the point where it smoked when I cut pine molding.
Two Freud Diablos should get you through a 10 x 20 foot floor.
They won't cut worth a damn afterwards.
On Oct 22, 3:16 pm, FrozenNorth <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] took a can of maroon spray paint on October 22,
> 2007 04:07 pm and wrote the following:
>
>
>
>
>
> > I am planning on putting in some laminate flooring very soon and also
> > needed something to do some cuts for building some shelving. I am
> > planning on putting in the DuPont laminate flooring.
>
> > I am just starting to build my collection of power tools (YEAH!). So I
> > thought I would ask the experts their opinion as to whether or not I
> > made the right decision.
>
> > I bought a Ridged 10" Compound Miter saw.
>
> > The decision for this is that for one the guy at HD said that the 10"
> > Miter would be enough to cut the flooring.
> > Second, I am doing 45 degree cuts and was looking for some accuracy. I
> > thought about a table saw, but felt that I would get better cuts with
> > the miter. Am I correct in this thought?
>
> > I have a feeling the Miter may not be enough for the flooring, am I
> > right? Is there an "All-In-One" tool that would be better for the
> > flooring, or was I right in purchasing the miter, but I will also have
> > to purchase something else?
>
> > Thanks!
>
> Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put
down
> a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90 degrees,
> never mind at 45, I just used a circular saw and a jig saw for some of the
> odd cuts..
>
> Just posted a picture in abpw, before reading this post, it does show the
> flooring.
<quote emailed message>
How wide were the planks that you were cutting? Do you wish you got
the 12" Miter instead?
BTW - I am unaware of abpw. Could you give me a link?
</unquote>
Please respond to the group, not via email, unless you may think you know
me.
8" wide boards, my 10" CMS will cut to about 7 1/2, or a bit more, i.e it
will cut a 2x6, but fails on a 2x8, I just bring out my circular saw for
those cuts.
alt.binaries,pictures.woodworking, I notice you are a google groups poster,
you will not be able to find it, you will need a real usenet account.
--
Lits Slut #9
Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.
[email protected] took a can of maroon spray paint on October 22,
2007 04:07 pm and wrote the following:
> I am planning on putting in some laminate flooring very soon and also
> needed something to do some cuts for building some shelving. I am
> planning on putting in the DuPont laminate flooring.
>
> I am just starting to build my collection of power tools (YEAH!). So I
> thought I would ask the experts their opinion as to whether or not I
> made the right decision.
>
> I bought a Ridged 10" Compound Miter saw.
>
> The decision for this is that for one the guy at HD said that the 10"
> Miter would be enough to cut the flooring.
> Second, I am doing 45 degree cuts and was looking for some accuracy. I
> thought about a table saw, but felt that I would get better cuts with
> the miter. Am I correct in this thought?
>
> I have a feeling the Miter may not be enough for the flooring, am I
> right? Is there an "All-In-One" tool that would be better for the
> flooring, or was I right in purchasing the miter, but I will also have
> to purchase something else?
>
> Thanks!
Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put down
a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90 degrees,
never mind at 45, I just used a circular saw and a jig saw for some of the
odd cuts..
Just posted a picture in abpw, before reading this post, it does show the
flooring.
--
Lits Slut #9
Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.
Mon, Oct 22, 2007, 2:37pm (EDT-3) [email protected] (Airedale)
doth query:
So do you guys think I should stick with the 10", or would I do better
with the 12" for $80 more?
You're a big boy now, you decide.
JOAT
"I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth."
"Really? Why not?"
"I don't know, thur. I didn't athk."
J T took a can of maroon spray paint on October 22, 2007 05:11 pm and wrote
the following:
> Mon, Oct 22, 2007, 8:16pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (FrozenNorth)
> pointed his maroon spray paint wrong, sprayed himself in the face, then
> said:
> Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put
> down a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90
> degrees, never mind at 45, <snip>
>
> Hehehe I got a new, $70, Harbor Freight 10" miter saw awhile
> back. Some think they're low quality; however, it zips thru oak
> flooring, any angle, no sweat. You got a carbide tip blade in your saw?
> My saw came with one.
>
Carbide tip, problem was the boards were 8" wide, my 10" Ridgid CMS won't
cut that wide.
--
Lits Slut #9
Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.
Mon, Oct 22, 2007, 9:29pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (FrozenNorth)
doth sayeth:
Carbide tip, problem was the boards were 8" wide, my 10" Ridgid CMS
won't cut that wide.
--
My saw does. Now. Heh heh. At 90 degrees that is. Dunno what
it'll cut at 45. I made a "bed", that raises the work up, and now it
will cut 8 inches. I may tweak it later, so it will cut close to the
full 10". Woodworking is meant to be fun, I'm having fun.
JOAT
"I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth."
"Really? Why not?"
"I don't know, thur. I didn't athk."
[email protected] (J T) wrote on 22 Oct 2007 in group
rec.woodworking:
> Mon, Oct 22, 2007, 9:29pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (FrozenNorth)
> doth sayeth:
> Carbide tip, problem was the boards were 8" wide, my 10" Ridgid CMS
> won't cut that wide.
>
> My saw does. Now. Heh heh. At 90 degrees that is. Dunno what
> it'll cut at 45. I made a "bed", that raises the work up, and now it
> will cut 8 inches. I may tweak it later, so it will cut close to the
> full 10". Woodworking is meant to be fun, I'm having fun.
If it's that small a difference, I just tip the board up (carefully).
Don't let anybody from OSHA see you do it, though. It's like ripping on a
table saw without push sticks.
This trick works fine at 90°. I saw a guy at Habitat last week doing the
same trick at 22.5° -- that didn't work so well. My buddy flips the board
over and finishes the cut from the other side. He gets it perfect every
time, but I haven't practiced enough.
--
Steve B.
New Life Home Improvement
Tue, Oct 23, 2007, 4:08am (EDT+4) [email protected] (Steve) doth
sayeth:
If it's that small a difference, I just tip the board up (carefully).
Don't let anybody from OSHA see you do it, though. It's like ripping on
a table saw without push sticks.
This trick works fine at 90=B0. I saw a guy at Habitat last week doing
the same trick at 22.5=B0 -- that didn't work so well. My buddy flips
the board over and finishes the cut from the other side. He gets it
perfect every time, but I haven't practiced enough.
No thanks, tried it once, didn't like it. I'm not just making a
"raised bed" for my mitre saw, when I finish up, I'll not only be able
to set a chunk of wook down and zip thru it at 90 degrees, I'l have
clamps to hole it if I even want any angle cuts. Even if I want to set
a piece on edge, and split it - clamps all the way. I can be verrrry
careful when it comes to keeping me away from the whirly parts, and
keeping pieces from shooting around the shop.
JOAT
"I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth."
"Really? Why not?"
"I don't know, thur. I didn't athk."
Mon, Oct 22, 2007, 8:16pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (FrozenNorth)
pointed his maroon spray paint wrong, sprayed himself in the face, then
said:
Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put
down a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90
degrees, never mind at 45, <snip>
Hehehe I got a new, $70, Harbor Freight 10" miter saw awhile
back. Some think they're low quality; however, it zips thru oak
flooring, any angle, no sweat. You got a carbide tip blade in your saw?
My saw came with one.
JOAT
"I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth."
"Really? Why not?"
"I don't know, thur. I didn't athk."
Steve <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Airedale <[email protected]> wrote on 22 Oct 2007 in group
> rec.woodworking:
>
>> So do you guys think I should stick with the 10", or would I do
>> better with the 12" for $80 more?
>
> I specifically bought the 12" so I'd never say to myself, "Dang, I
> wish my saw was a little bigger". The only downside is that the saw is
> a little bigger and heavier. Also, go for the compound miter so you
> can put up crown molding in a few months.
>
If you get the sliding version, you can also cut much wider boards.
Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
Airedale <[email protected]> wrote:
> So do you guys think I should stick with the 10", or would I do better
> with the 12" for $80 more?
You better buy _sliding_ miter saw. $130 or so from Harbor Freight will do
just fine if you don't need greater accuracy and won't use the saw much.
That would allow you to cut up to 12" and it will be way better accuracywise
that any of chop saws now matter how expensive.
---
******************************************************************
* KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
* Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
******************************************************************
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Ivan Vegvary took a can of maroon spray paint on October 23, 2007 07:53 pm
and wrote the following:
>
> "FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>J T took a can of maroon spray paint on October 22, 2007 05:11 pm and
>>wrote
>> the following:
>>
>>> Mon, Oct 22, 2007, 8:16pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (FrozenNorth)
>>> pointed his maroon spray paint wrong, sprayed himself in the face, then
>>> said:
>>> Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put
>>> down a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90
>>> degrees, never mind at 45, <snip>
>>>
>>> Hehehe I got a new, $70, Harbor Freight 10" miter saw awhile
>>> back. Some think they're low quality; however, it zips thru oak
>>> flooring, any angle, no sweat. You got a carbide tip blade in your saw?
>>> My saw came with one.
>>>
>> Carbide tip, problem was the boards were 8" wide, my 10" Ridgid CMS won't
>> cut that wide.
>
> When I cut my 8" flooring I would pull down on the chop saw (cut a little
> more than 7 inches) and when it bottomed out I would lift up on the board.
> Perfect cuts. I will admit that this was snap together laminates and that
> all the cuts ended up against walls where they will be covered by
> baseboards.
>
That doesn't seem safe to me, I treat power tools with a great deal of
respect, I like my fingers where the are.
--
Lits Slut #9
Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.
"Airedale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> So do you guys think I should stick with the 10", or would I do better
> with the 12" for $80 more?
>
10" is plenty. .... Up until the time you need that extra half inch to cut
and you'll curse yourself for not spending the extra up front.
For laminate, you NEED a carbide blade. Get a spare too and they will both
need sharpening when the job is done.
Airedale <[email protected]> wrote on 22 Oct 2007 in group
rec.woodworking:
> So do you guys think I should stick with the 10", or would I do better
> with the 12" for $80 more?
I specifically bought the 12" so I'd never say to myself, "Dang, I wish my
saw was a little bigger". The only downside is that the saw is a little
bigger and heavier. Also, go for the compound miter so you can put up
crown molding in a few months.
--
Steve B.
New Life Home Improvement
"FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>J T took a can of maroon spray paint on October 22, 2007 05:11 pm and wrote
> the following:
>
>> Mon, Oct 22, 2007, 8:16pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (FrozenNorth)
>> pointed his maroon spray paint wrong, sprayed himself in the face, then
>> said:
>> Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put
>> down a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90
>> degrees, never mind at 45, <snip>
>>
>> Hehehe I got a new, $70, Harbor Freight 10" miter saw awhile
>> back. Some think they're low quality; however, it zips thru oak
>> flooring, any angle, no sweat. You got a carbide tip blade in your saw?
>> My saw came with one.
>>
> Carbide tip, problem was the boards were 8" wide, my 10" Ridgid CMS won't
> cut that wide.
When I cut my 8" flooring I would pull down on the chop saw (cut a little
more than 7 inches) and when it bottomed out I would lift up on the board.
Perfect cuts. I will admit that this was snap together laminates and that
all the cuts ended up against walls where they will be covered by
baseboards.
Ivan Vegvary
You might want to go with the 12". However you will want to use a good
carbide tipped blade with at least 60 teeth. I do stress carbide tipped,
otherwise the flooring will eat up the blade very quickly.
Allen
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am planning on putting in some laminate flooring very soon and also
> needed something to do some cuts for building some shelving. I am
> planning on putting in the DuPont laminate flooring.
>
> I am just starting to build my collection of power tools (YEAH!). So I
> thought I would ask the experts their opinion as to whether or not I
> made the right decision.
>
> I bought a Ridged 10" Compound Miter saw.
>
> The decision for this is that for one the guy at HD said that the 10"
> Miter would be enough to cut the flooring.
> Second, I am doing 45 degree cuts and was looking for some accuracy. I
> thought about a table saw, but felt that I would get better cuts with
> the miter. Am I correct in this thought?
>
> I have a feeling the Miter may not be enough for the flooring, am I
> right? Is there an "All-In-One" tool that would be better for the
> flooring, or was I right in purchasing the miter, but I will also have
> to purchase something else?
>
> Thanks!
>
Allen Roy wrote:
> You might want to go with the 12". However you will want to use a good
> carbide tipped blade with at least 60 teeth. I do stress carbide tipped,
> otherwise the flooring will eat up the blade very quickly.
>
> Allen
I'd recommend a cheap carbide blade. No sense ruining a good blade.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
[email protected] wrote on 22 Oct 2007 in group rec.woodworking:
> I am planning on putting in some laminate flooring very soon and also
> needed something to do some cuts for building some shelving. I am
> planning on putting in the DuPont laminate flooring.
>
> I am just starting to build my collection of power tools (YEAH!). So I
> thought I would ask the experts their opinion as to whether or not I
> made the right decision.
>
> I bought a Ridged 10" Compound Miter saw.
>
> The decision for this is that for one the guy at HD said that the 10"
> Miter would be enough to cut the flooring.
> Second, I am doing 45 degree cuts and was looking for some accuracy. I
> thought about a table saw, but felt that I would get better cuts with
> the miter. Am I correct in this thought?
Your miter saw will do fine. I have the 12" Ridged saw, and it has done
a good job for me. You might need to get a different blade. The one that
came with my saw is great for soft wood like pine, but splinters hard
wood and plywood. I bought a 100-tooth side-bevel blade that works great
with harder woods and trim. Ask for advice at a real woodworking or
lumber place.
Table saws are not that great for cutting angles. You can do it, but it
takes practice and a good miter.
>
> I have a feeling the Miter may not be enough for the flooring, am I
> right? Is there an "All-In-One" tool that would be better for the
> flooring, or was I right in purchasing the miter, but I will also have
> to purchase something else?
You'll probably need a sabresaw to get parts to fit around corners of
door jambs. I like my Bosch. I also have a Ryobi, but it's no good. My
best tip for sabresaws is to cut slowly. Going to fast will either break
the blade or cause it to cut at an angle.
--
Steve B.
New Life Home Improvement
Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote on 22 Oct 2007 in group
rec.woodworking:
> On Oct 22, 8:30 pm, "Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> You might want to go with the 12". However you will want to use a
>> good carbide tipped blade with at least 60 teeth. I do stress
>> carbide tipped, otherwise the flooring will eat up the blade very
>> quickly.
>
> And even then, you're going to be wearing out a lot of
> blades very quickly. The substrate might be cardboard,
> but the finish is some sort of very hard ceramic impregnated
> resin. I've never seen a blade light up at the contact point
> when cutting wood products.
Most of those hard finishes contain aluminum oxide -- the same thing
that's on the high-end sandpaper. I wore down a good blade on that stuff
to the point where it smoked when I cut pine molding.
--
Steve B.
New Life Home Improvement
On Mon, 22 Oct 2007 13:07:36 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>I bought a Ridged 10" Compound Miter saw.
>
If the 10" miter saw to work for your flooring, you may need to get a
sliding miter saw. The Rigid 12" sliding compound miter saw cuts to 13
1/2 inches while the 10" compound miter saw saws off to 6 inches as
you found out. YMMV
John in SC