Hi folks,
After much lurking, and answering a few posts, I've got a question
that I have't seen:
I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok). I
used the following grits:
100,150,220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,2000, and some finer stuff, but
I don't know the grit. It may be overkill, but I didn't take too long
with any of the grits (except for 100 and 150!). Now that the
chisel(s) are sharp, I've got a few issues;
1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as
well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a
definitive answer (if there is one)
2. What grits do I start at when resharpening?
3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface the
chise?
thx in advance,
shelly
On Sep 10, 3:02 pm, Jim Weisgram <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Mon, 8 Sep 2008 13:40:25 -0700 (PDT), [email protected]
> wrote:
>
>
>
> >Hi folks,
>
> >After much lurking, and answering a few posts, I've got a question
> >that I have't seen:
>
> >I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok). I
> >used the following grits:
> >100,150,220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,2000, and some finer stuff, but
> >I don't know the grit. It may be overkill, but I didn't take too long
> >with any of the grits (except for 100 and 150!). Now that the
> >chisel(s) are sharp, I've got a few issues;
> >1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as
> >well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a
> >definitive answer (if there is one)
> >2. What grits do I start at when resharpening?
> >3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface the
> >chise?
>
> >thx in advance,
>
> >shelly
>
> Here's a couple more ways to determine if you have a sharp edge:
>
> 1) you should be able to cleanly pare away end grain on softwood.
so far, so good... with the chisel that came out the best, I can even
do that to oak
>
> 2) a sharp edge will not reflect light; if you can see tiny reflecting
> points of light, it is time to touch up the edge.
>
> Also, back of the chisel (some call it the "face") is actually more
> important than the bevel. It should be dead flat and polished with the
> same or higher grit than your bevel.
only went to 800. time again to experiment
thx
shelly
In article <[email protected]>,
Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
> The way you mentioned and I gently feel the edge with my thumb. If it
> still sorta scares me I know, well you know, it is scary sharp. It
> should slice the corner of of a piece of oak with little effort on your
> part, no hammer or mallot needed.
I recall when I was at school, many, many moons ago, the woodwork teacher
used to show how he could shave his forearm (dry, with no effort) with a
chisel or plane iron after he had sharpened it
--
Stuart Winsor
For Barn dances and folk evenings in the Coventry and Warwickshire area
See: http://www.barndance.org.uk
> Idealy you can stop with the grit that literally leaves you with a mirror
> finish. The mirror finish provides an ultra slick surface that aids in
> cutting and cuts down on friction.
got them that good! I can also shave hairs, although I notice a slight
skin scrape after (duh!)
>
> > 1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as
> > well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a
> > definitive answer (if there is one)
>
> The way you mentioned and I gently feel the edge with my thumb. If it still
> sorta scares me I know, well you know, it is scary sharp. It should slice
> the corner of of a piece of oak with little effort on your part, no hammer
> or mallot needed.
good info thx
>
shelly
On Mon, 8 Sep 2008 13:40:25 -0700 (PDT), [email protected]
wrote:
>Hi folks,
>
>After much lurking, and answering a few posts, I've got a question
>that I have't seen:
>
>I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok). I
>used the following grits:
>100,150,220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,2000, and some finer stuff, but
>I don't know the grit. It may be overkill, but I didn't take too long
>with any of the grits (except for 100 and 150!). Now that the
>chisel(s) are sharp, I've got a few issues;
>1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as
>well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a
>definitive answer (if there is one)
>2. What grits do I start at when resharpening?
>3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface the
>chise?
>
>thx in advance,
>
>shelly
Here's a couple more ways to determine if you have a sharp edge:
1) you should be able to cleanly pare away end grain on softwood.
2) a sharp edge will not reflect light; if you can see tiny reflecting
points of light, it is time to touch up the edge.
Also, back of the chisel (some call it the "face") is actually more
important than the bevel. It should be dead flat and polished with the
same or higher grit than your bevel.
On Sep 9, 3:29=A0pm, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've been watching this "sharpening" thread with more than casual
> interest.
> I've been hoping someone would suggest a *minimum* assortment of grits
> for sharpening.
> I would like to use the scary sharp system but I'm not ready to spend on
> an assortment of grits what I could spend a mechanical system.
> So...........how "few" grits could I get by with and still get the job
> done?
It's theoretically possible to just use the finest grit to which you
wish to sharpen. It'll just take a while, especially if you're
lapping the back of a cheap chisel for the first time. I think you
could get by with 220, 400, 1000 and 2000. You'll want the most of
220 though. Paper goes quick in the bigger grits.
JP
"Max" wrote:
> I hear you on the theory.
> If I use a grinder to take out any nicks (which I currently do) I
> should be able to manage with the grits you mention.
> I use plenty of 220 and buy it in packs. I have 400 and 600 (wet or
> dry) for auto work so that's no problem.
> So if I buy some 1000 and 2000, I should be able to manage with
> that.
SFWIW:
Got a piece of glass plate about 12x12x1/2 (Actually two 1/4 plates
glued together), a can of 77 spray adhesive and a few sheets of
wet/dry paper, 100 thru 2000 grit.
Cut strips about 2" wide x 8"-9" long
Chisels are sharp and still working on first purchase of W/D.
Lew
In article <14e607b4-c8c5-4937-9036-
[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
> Hi folks,
>
> After much lurking, and answering a few posts, I've got a question
> that I have't seen:
>
> I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok). I
> used the following grits:
> 100,150,220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,2000, and some finer stuff, but
> I don't know the grit. It may be overkill, but I didn't take too long
> with any of the grits (except for 100 and 150!). Now that the
> chisel(s) are sharp, I've got a few issues;
> 1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as
> well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a
> definitive answer (if there is one)
> 2. What grits do I start at when resharpening?
> 3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface the
> chise?
>
> thx in advance,
>
> shelly
You might just make a strop and with yellowstone (or whatever
suits you). A few quick swipes and you're good to go.
S.
"Just Wondering" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm a lawyer; I've never seen a grit sued yet.
Thought about it a couple of times, but then I tried cheese grits and they
are not so bad. I figured all grits should not suffer because of the icky
taste of a few.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:14e607b4-c8c5-4937-9036-f5f50c998ded@z72g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
> Hi folks,
>
> After much lurking, and answering a few posts, I've got a question
> that I have't seen:
>
> I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok). I
> used the following grits:
> 100,150,220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,2000, and some finer stuff, but
> I don't know the grit. It may be overkill, but I didn't take too long
> with any of the grits (except for 100 and 150!). Now that the
> chisel(s) are sharp, I've got a few issues;
Idealy you can stop with the grit that literally leaves you with a mirror
finish. The mirror finish provides an ultra slick surface that aids in
cutting and cuts down on friction.
> 1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as
> well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a
> definitive answer (if there is one)
The way you mentioned and I gently feel the edge with my thumb. If it still
sorta scares me I know, well you know, it is scary sharp. It should slice
the corner of of a piece of oak with little effort on your part, no hammer
or mallot needed.
> 2. What grits do I start at when resharpening?
If you have nicks you obviousely need to use a more coarse grit but if you
simply need to retouch try the most fine and see how it works out for you .
You will develope a sense of which to use based on the condition of the
blade.
> 3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface the
> chise?
I typically can redo the microbevel 10 or so times before needing to
regrind. The microbevel eventually becomes too blunt and cutting will
suffer. Dont let the chisel get too dull between sharpenings. Depending on
how often you redo the microbevel will determine how many you can get away
with before a regrind.
>
> thx in advance,
>
> shelly
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Sep 9, 3:29 pm, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've been watching this "sharpening" thread with more than casual
> interest.
> I've been hoping someone would suggest a *minimum* assortment of grits
> for sharpening.
> I would like to use the scary sharp system but I'm not ready to spend
> on
> an assortment of grits what I could spend a mechanical system.
> So...........how "few" grits could I get by with and still get the job
> done?
It's theoretically possible to just use the finest grit to which you
wish to sharpen. It'll just take a while, especially if you're
lapping the back of a cheap chisel for the first time. I think you
could get by with 220, 400, 1000 and 2000. You'll want the most of
220 though. Paper goes quick in the bigger grits.
JP
I hear you on the theory.
If I use a grinder to take out any nicks (which I currently do) I should
be able to manage with the grits you mention.
I use plenty of 220 and buy it in packs. I have 400 and 600 (wet or
dry) for auto work so that's no problem.
So if I buy some 1000 and 2000, I should be able to manage with that.
Much thanks.
Max
When you suddenly spin around in your shop and
"you don't split an atom" while holding your
chisel.
Here is additional info on grits:
http://www.quakergrits.com/QG_Products/products.htm
http://woodworkstuff.net/scary.html
[email protected] wrote:
>
> I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok).
> 1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull
> You can inpsect it under magnification if you want. (Do this b4 use
> too, so you'll have something to compare).
I looked at the sharpening process after every grit with a 10x
loupe... it was fascinating - I could really see the wire edge, and
even little bits of steel getting smaller and smaller
>
> For the lapping of the back you always use the highest grit to which
> you initially lapped it. (I take mine to 2000 on paper).
I didn't go ll the way. Is it a big deal? I guess I can wiat intul I
have to resharpen.
> Once you get comfortable with using paper, you should give waterstones
> a try. I still do my initial lapping on paper, but now I use Norton
> stones and finish with a Shapton 12,000 grit. Very, very sharp, and
> they seem to stay sharp for longer.
<rant on>
sigh.... had several abortive attempts before the current success... I
used the verita MKII guide (a nice piece of equipment, that). I told
myself that if I still couldn't sharpen, I would get the work sharp
system. Now you tell me that I should go for waterstones. Just tell
me, does it ever end :)
<rant off>
what grit stones do you use?
thanks again
shelly
>
> JP
On Sep 8, 4:40=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> 1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as
> well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a
> definitive answer (if there is one)
You can inpsect it under magnification if you want. (Do this b4 use
too, so you'll have something to compare). But I just wait until it's
not performing as I'd like it. A quick test is to lightly push the
edge into your fingernail at about a 45d angle. If it "sticks" then
it's still really sharp. If it skates, not so much.
> 2. What grits do I start at when resharpening?
For the lapping of the back you always use the highest grit to which
you initially lapped it. (I take mine to 2000 on paper). If you
haven't really nicked the blade or really dulled it you can just
retouch the microbevel with 2000 a few times. Once you have to rehone
the primary bevel, I'd drop back to 400 to start. Maybe lower if it
feels like it's taking forever.
> 3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface the
> chise?
It's a bit of a personal preference, but I pretty much just hone the
microbevel with my highest grit, and when it gets to be taking "too
long" to sharpen it that way, or it gets to be say 3-4mm wide I rehone
the primary.
Once you get comfortable with using paper, you should give waterstones
a try. I still do my initial lapping on paper, but now I use Norton
stones and finish with a Shapton 12,000 grit. Very, very sharp, and
they seem to stay sharp for longer.
JP
On Sep 9, 11:08 pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Max" wrote:
> > I hear you on the theory.
> > If I use a grinder to take out any nicks (which I currently do) I
> > should be able to manage with the grits you mention.
> > I use plenty of 220 and buy it in packs. I have 400 and 600 (wet or
> > dry) for auto work so that's no problem.
> > So if I buy some 1000 and 2000, I should be able to manage with
> > that.
>
> SFWIW:
>
> Got a piece of glass plate about 12x12x1/2 (Actually two 1/4 plates
> glued together), a can of 77 spray adhesive and a few sheets of
> wet/dry paper, 100 thru 2000 grit.
>
> Cut strips about 2" wide x 8"-9" long
>
> Chisels are sharp and still working on first purchase of W/D.
>
> Lew
Originally I tried using strips about 5"x 2"... they weren't long
enough. Now I use 2" strips, the length of the sheet.
I use either a glass plate (came from rockler w/sanspaper) or a
marble(maybe) tile from an oddlot place. the tile cost me $3, and was
pretty flat. I hook the end of sandpaper over it, use the other hand
to hold the end down, and hone away. I use the glass plate got the
finer grits. It is true that you don't use too much of the finer
grits. I also use a sandpaper cleaning stick - it makes a big
difference.
shelly
On Sep 9, 3:29 pm, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've been watching this "sharpening" thread with more than casual
> interest.
> I've been hoping someone would suggest a *minimum* assortment of grits
> for sharpening.
> I would like to use the scary sharp system but I'm not ready to spend on
> an assortment of grits what I could spend a mechanical system.
> So...........how "few" grits could I get by with and still get the job
> done?
>
> Max
based on what I've read and done, the point is to not skip grits. Each
grit has to remove the scratches from the previous one, so if you go
from, say, 220 to 400, you have to work harder with the 400, then with
220, 320, and then 400.. If you had too, I would guess that you could
skip almost every other grit:
100, 220, 400, 800, 1200, 2000
shelly
On Sep 11, 3:18 pm, Jim Weisgram <[email protected]>
wrote:
> >[...snip...]
>
> >> 1) you should be able to cleanly pare away end grain on softwood.
>
> >so far, so good... with the chisel that came out the best, I can even
> >do that to oak
>
> [...snip...]
>
> Actually, the softwood is a better test than a hardwood like oak; if
> your edge isn't sharp, softwood will just kind of crumble away. The
> hardwood will stand up better to the not so sharp edge and you can get
> some kind of shaving.
>
>
>
> >thx
> >shelly
tried both, worked both times!
shelly
Sue the ones with the deepest pockets first.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:14e607b4-c8c5-4937-9036-f5f50c998ded@z72g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
Hi folks,
After much lurking, and answering a few posts, I've got a question
that I have't seen:
I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok). I
used the following grits:
100,150,220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,2000, and some finer stuff, but
I don't know the grit. It may be overkill, but I didn't take too long
with any of the grits (except for 100 and 150!). Now that the
chisel(s) are sharp, I've got a few issues;
1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as
well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a
definitive answer (if there is one)
2. What grits do I start at when resharpening?
3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface the
chise?
thx in advance,
shelly
On Mon, 8 Sep 2008 13:40:25 -0700 (PDT), [email protected]
wrote:
>Hi folks,
>
>After much lurking, and answering a few posts, I've got a question
>that I have't seen:
>
>I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok). I
>used the following grits:
>100,150,220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,2000, and some finer stuff, but
>I don't know the grit. It may be overkill, but I didn't take too long
>with any of the grits (except for 100 and 150!). Now that the
>chisel(s) are sharp, I've got a few issues;
>1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as
>well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a
>definitive answer (if there is one)
>2. What grits do I start at when resharpening?
>3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface the
>chise?
>
>thx in advance,
>
>shelly
If you're cut after sharpening, I would just sue the lot of them.
Look for the one with the deep pockets.
Sorry, I just couldn't resist. :~)
Frank
>[...snip...]
>>
>> 1) you should be able to cleanly pare away end grain on softwood.
>
>so far, so good... with the chisel that came out the best, I can even
>do that to oak
>
[...snip...]
Actually, the softwood is a better test than a hardwood like oak; if
your edge isn't sharp, softwood will just kind of crumble away. The
hardwood will stand up better to the not so sharp edge and you can get
some kind of shaving.
>
>thx
>shelly
I've been watching this "sharpening" thread with more than casual
interest.
I've been hoping someone would suggest a *minimum* assortment of grits
for sharpening.
I would like to use the scary sharp system but I'm not ready to spend on
an assortment of grits what I could spend a mechanical system.
So...........how "few" grits could I get by with and still get the job
done?
Max
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Max" wrote:
>
>
>> I hear you on the theory.
>> If I use a grinder to take out any nicks (which I currently do) I
>> should be able to manage with the grits you mention.
>> I use plenty of 220 and buy it in packs. I have 400 and 600 (wet or
>> dry) for auto work so that's no problem.
>> So if I buy some 1000 and 2000, I should be able to manage with that.
>
> SFWIW:
>
> Got a piece of glass plate about 12x12x1/2 (Actually two 1/4 plates
> glued together), a can of 77 spray adhesive and a few sheets of
> wet/dry paper, 100 thru 2000 grit.
>
> Cut strips about 2" wide x 8"-9" long
>
> Chisels are sharp and still working on first purchase of W/D.
>
> Lew
I have a piece of glass 3/4" thick; its about 14 X 16. It came from a
table top (30" X 44") that got broke.
It's interesting to learn that I need only a *few* sheets of W/D.
I'll give it a go.
Max