Need tips for cutting 3/4x4x8 ply

In article <[email protected]>, Woodchuck
<[email protected]> wrote:

> I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
> side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The plans
> call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut the ply
> and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and several
> friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw and a
> straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than spec and
> then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.
>
> regards,
>
>
There is information here on using your circular saw, just take your
time and it works fine:
http://sawdustmaking.com/Circular%20Saws/circular_saws.htm

--
http://sawdustmaking.com

On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 19:50:24 -0500, "Woodchuck"
<[email protected]> vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I _might_ have somebody pulling a long piece of wood out of the back
of a table.

Multiple people working together on a table saw! brrrrhhhrhrh!

I actually have a bee in my bonnet about beginners to woodwork even
_bothering_ with a Table Saw. I would get a million other tools first,
including a bandsaw. Until you are really producing lots of cuts, and
especially repeats, a decent table saw is not jusitifable _as a tool_
(not as a Big Boy's Toy <G>)

One of the handiest tips I ever had here was to get a sheet or two of
1" (25mm) styrene foam. Lay them on the floor and lay the ply on them
to cut. Set the saw to cut just into the foam through your wood, and
in the end you need a new piece of foam.

I actually made up two 4' * 4' (1.2m * 1.2m) frames with pine edges
and ply backing, and cut between them. They stand up against the wall
when not in use.

I bough my foam, but many guys dumpster dive etc.

Straight edges: Get a 4' (1.2m) spirit level or three from the
hardware shop. I have bought them for under $20. Strong and straight.
To make an 8' (2.4m ) edge, join two end to end with the third one, or
another straight edge.

Make _sure_ that the circ saw you use has its blade parallel to the
blade guide foot that sits on the fence. Otherwise you will have real
trouble.

>I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
>side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The plans
>call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut the ply
>and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and several
>friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw and a
>straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than spec and
>then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.
>
>regards,
>

*****************************************************
Dogs are better than people.

People are better than dogs for only one purpose. And
then it's only half of ofthe people. And _then_ most
of them are only ordinary anyway. And then they have a
headache.........

Bought a new circular saw for the task which came with a carbide 24t and I
also have a 200t steel veneer blade... so which would be the better choice
if I cut the ply 1/4 over and then recut on table saw?


does an old JC Penney circular saw(circa 1978) have any tool collector
value?

"Woodchuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
> side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The
> plans call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut
> the ply and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and
> several friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw
> and a straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than
> spec and then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.
>
> regards,
>

I cut to width and then tried cutting to length. My blade caused all
kinds of veneer chipping. I got out the router and did a cleanup cut.
I have a tendancy to make furniture plus or minus a 1/2" of my
drawings. Measure once, screw up the cut and measure again and cut. It
keeps getting smaller every time. ;-) I do use a circular saw and a
straight edge when possilble for those large sheets of plywood.

Tom Quackenbush <[email protected]> wrote:

>Woodchuck wrote:
>
>>I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
>>side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The plans
>>call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut the ply
>>and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and several
>>friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw and a
>>straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than spec and
>>then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.
>
> For me, the easiest way to cut large panels is with a circular saw,
>like this:
>
>1. Get 2 or 3 pieces of 2" foam insulation (e.g., blueboard or
>pinkboard), lay them flat on the floor (or any fairly flat surface)
>
>2. Put the panel to be cut on top of the foam.
>
>3. Set the depth of cut on the saw to about 1/4" (depth of tooth + 1
>RCH) more than the thickness of the panel. This is a always good idea,
>but particularly so when using this method.
>
>4. Measure, clamp up your straight edge, and make your cut
>while kneeling/crawling on the panel you're cutting.
>
> I like this method MUCH better than using sawhorses or the
>tablesaw. Nothing has a tendency to move around & you don't
>have to worry about catching or dropping the offcut.
>
>A couple more points:
>
>1. If there is a "good" side to your panel, put it face down
>when cutting with a circular saw, it will splinter less. Some
>people put masking tape on the line of cut to reduce
>splintering, but I've never found it neccesary (not with sharp
>sawblades, anyway).
>
>2. Use a good, sharp blade. I bought a 7 1/4" WWII just for cutting
>panels like this.
>
>
>R,
>Tom Q.

On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 19:50:24 -0500, "Woodchuck"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
>side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The plans
>call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut the ply
>and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and several
>friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw and a
>straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than spec and
>then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.
>
>regards,
>
Have you bought the plywood yet?
In Calif., oak plywood is very expensive... I'd hate to ruin a sheet!

If you haven't bought it yet, ask the place that you buy it to do the
main 8 foot cut for you... usually, they make 2 cuts free and start
charging after that, so they'd probably cut it off to 6', also..

If you already have it, I'll 2nd or 3rd the skill saw and straight
edge system.. I've cut a lot of sheets up and have always got better
cuts when I used a skill saw..

If in doubt, waste a 1/2" of wood and cut it to 8' x 12 1/4" and then
run the 11 3/4" trim cut on the table saw... IMO, it's better to
sacrifice a little scrap then mess up a whole sheet...

Han wrote:
> "mark" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> Do it with the circular saw and straightedge. I would suggest doing
>> it on the ground, too. Raise the panel up on some sacrificial 2x2s,
>> and set the saw just deeper than the thickness of the panel.
>>
>
> I put 2x4's over a couple of sawhorses. Saves my back somewhat.

I usually use 4 sawhorses. It saves trying to hold the cut pieces with the
3rd hand. I've also learned the wisdom of clamping one side to a couple of
the sawhorses. ;-) Less excitement, but safer.

-- Mark

"Woodchuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
> side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The
plans
> call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut the ply
> and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and several
> friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw and a
> straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than spec and
> then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.
>
> regards,
>
>

Bag the idea with several friends. It's hard enough with one helper to keep
that person from trying to control the cut, let alone with several.
Whenever I have a task like this I cut it with a circular saw. Use a good
blade and a straight edge and you can cut it right to the line. If you're a
little antsy about this then do as you suggest above and cut it a quarter
fat and run it through the tablesaw.
--

-Mike-
[email protected]

"Woodchuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
> side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The
plans
> call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut the ply
> and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and several
> friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw and a
> straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than spec and
> then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.
>
> regards,
>
>

One thing I have found with having multiple "helpers", is that there is no
consistancy in pressure/pull/whatever and the chances of binding it up on
the bladeand/or some other form of badness will likely occur. Better to use
a straightedge and circular saw and cut a bit over. Then finish cut on the
table saw, or if necessary, cut by yourself; or with one helper on the
table saw. I think you have a better feel of what the sheet is doing if you
don't have a bunch of others pushing and pulling on it. Just my $.02

P.

Woodchuck wrote:
> I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
> side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The plans
> call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut the ply
> and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and several
> friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw and a
> straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than spec and
> then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.
>
> regards,
>
>

Circular saw and a straight edge. Cut it to the correct width; no
recutting. Your first step is to make a cutting board. See:
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65j/main.html and look at Jigs
and Fixtures / Circular Saws. Then you need something to hold the
plywood (e.g., saw horses), or just use 2x4s to hold the sheet up off
the floor so the blade doesn't contact the floor. Use a good blade.

Trying to cut a 4 x 8 sheet on your table saw is a disaster in the
making that will either ruin the panel or injure you or your friends.

Anything I've said earlier notwithstanding, I agree that unless you have
about an acre of accessory tables, infeed, outfeed etc. Trying to heft
a 4 x 8 sheet onto a table saw is a recipe for disaster.

bob g.

George E. Cawthon wrote:

> Woodchuck wrote:
>
>> I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase.
>> The side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply.
>> The plans call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses
>> to cut the ply and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1-
>> tablesaw and several friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use
>> my circular saw and a straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the
>> width 1/4 wider than spec and then recut to size once they are cut
>> from the 4x8ply.
>>
>> regards,
>>
>
> Circular saw and a straight edge. Cut it to the correct width; no
> recutting. Your first step is to make a cutting board. See:
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65j/main.html and look at Jigs and
> Fixtures / Circular Saws. Then you need something to hold the plywood
> (e.g., saw horses), or just use 2x4s to hold the sheet up off the floor
> so the blade doesn't contact the floor. Use a good blade.
>
> Trying to cut a 4 x 8 sheet on your table saw is a disaster in the
> making that will either ruin the panel or injure you or your friends.

Hi

I would not trust anyone to hold the plyboard straight on a table saw,
unless you have a very large outfeed table. A circular saw will be much
better and much more secure.

Not sure if my stick figure drawing is clear, but to make a very precise
straight edge for a particular blade on a circular saw, attach a very
straight piece of material (L shape steel or some sort of extrusion would be
great, but can also be a piece of wood -- it has to be straight, though) to
a piece of plyboard (maybe 4' x 12"). Run your saw along this straight
fence, cutting off the excess of the plyboard.
Now you have a perfect straight edge that can be alligned perfectly with
whatever marks you've made on your workpiece. Allign the marks up with the
edge of the plyboard and clamp your straight edge down. Run your saw along
the edge - the cut will be perfect everytime.

|/////| <---- straight edge - an Aluminum extrusion or bent
steel would be great
============== <--- scrap ply board
^
|
Attach with screws, etc

Hope this is of use to you.
Remco

"Paul in MN" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Woodchuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
> > side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The
> plans
> > call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut the
ply
> > and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and
several
> > friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw and a
> > straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than spec
and
> > then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.
> >
> > regards,
> >
> >
>
> One thing I have found with having multiple "helpers", is that there is no
> consistancy in pressure/pull/whatever and the chances of binding it up on
> the bladeand/or some other form of badness will likely occur. Better to
use
> a straightedge and circular saw and cut a bit over. Then finish cut on
the
> table saw, or if necessary, cut by yourself; or with one helper on the
> table saw. I think you have a better feel of what the sheet is doing if
you
> don't have a bunch of others pushing and pulling on it. Just my $.02
>
> P.
>
>

"Woodchuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
> side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The
plans
> call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut the ply
> and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and several
> friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw and a
> straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than spec and
> then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.

I would rough cut a piece from the sheet with my circular saw, then rip it
on the tablesaw. I have a substantial outfeed table and a heavy duty ball
bearing stand to help support the infeed. I would not do this on a bare
tablesaw.

The next best compromise is to rip it with a circular saw and a shopmade
sawboard http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm.

Bob Davis
Houston, Texas

"mark" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Do it with the circular saw and straightedge. I would suggest doing it
> on the ground, too. Raise the panel up on some sacrificial 2x2s, and
> set the saw just deeper than the thickness of the panel.
>

I put 2x4's over a couple of sawhorses. Saves my back somewhat.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Ba r r y <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Laying the sheets directly on 2" thick foam insulation, on the floor,
> is really easy.
>
> Kneel and cut.
>
>

I have a 1-car garage from 1929 (www.radburn.org). Although there is no
car(let) in the garage, it's pretty full with canoes and bikes + assorted
gardening tools. I have barely enough room for a 4x8 sheet, and can't
easily crawle around it. Standing *is* easier!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Fri 12 Nov 2004 06:50:24p, "Woodchuck" <[email protected]>
wrote in news:[email protected]:

> The plans
> call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut the
> ply and keep it all straight?

I've used most of the methods everyone else has been talking about. For
the bathroom remodel this summer I built the sacrificial-top table
described here:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00035.asp
and lopped the good edges off a couple good plywood sheet, one long and
one short, for guides.

I plan to make a *real* circular saw guide this spring, but that table
doesn't need any work. It's GREAT. Click on "Setting up the table" about
halfway down the page to see what it looks like and an easy way to put a
heavy sheet of ply on it. Folds up nice for storage. Used it to cut the
sheet vinyl for the bathroom floor. Toss a sheet of ply on it for a top
and it makes a passable assembly/work table. Took me an afternoon and
about twenty five bucks to build it. I think it's saved me hours of time
and I know it's done wonders for my back. :-) It's a lot easier and more
fun to mark out and cut a good edge when the work is at a comfortable
height and you know it's not going to fall on your foot when it's cut.

Cutting plywood with a tablesaw is possible - if you've got about an acre
of infeed and outfeed tables and a six foot fence. Having somebody hold
the ends up while you try to guide it through a blade going a few
gazillion revs per minute might lose you some friends. At best you'll get
a lousy edge. They're just too awkward to handle.

"Woodchuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
> side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The
> plans call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut
> the ply and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and
> several friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw
> and a straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than
> spec and then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.
>
> regards,
>
I REALLY liked the idea from Bob Davis about the saw board. Unfortunately
I never knew of that idea when I bought a 50" Clamp N Tool Guide (here is
one website that sells them but they are others
(http://www.profhdwr.com/41050.htm). It lets you clamp a straight edge to
the edges of the plywood sheet so the guide doesn't move. Then you can run
your saw right down it. I do it all the time with good results. I cut about
1/2" oversize and then complete the job on my table saw.

Dick Snyder

On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 19:50:24 -0500, "Woodchuck"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
>side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The plans
>call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut the ply
>and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and several
>friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw and a
>straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than spec and
>then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.
>
>regards,
>
I am NOT a newbe nor do I work with plywood sheets all that much...
and I am also in my 60's and lugging a 4x8 sheet of plywood into my
shop is more Physicial work then I care to do...

But like the others I would place it on the floor on top of a foam
sheet and use my circular saw cutting it slightly wider then the
finish size.. OR I would have the Lumber Yard .cut it down to size
for me on their panel saw....then I would use my Tablesaw (IT DOES
have a large outfeed table...if it did not I would not even attempt
the cut..

IF I worked with plywood on aeven a semi regular bases I would have a
panel saw for sure.. Damn the expense... !

Bob Griffiths.

>> I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
>> side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The
> plans
>> call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut the ply
>> and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and several
>> friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw and a
>> straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than spec
>> and
>> then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.
>>
>> regards,

Do it with the circular saw and straightedge. I would suggest doing it on
the ground, too. Raise the panel up on some sacrificial 2x2s, and set the
saw just deeper than the thickness of the panel.

On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 21:12:28 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:

>"mark" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Do it with the circular saw and straightedge. I would suggest doing it
>> on the ground, too. Raise the panel up on some sacrificial 2x2s, and
>> set the saw just deeper than the thickness of the panel.
>>
>
>I put 2x4's over a couple of sawhorses. Saves my back somewhat.

Laying the sheets directly on 2" thick foam insulation, on the floor,
is really easy.

Kneel and cut.

Barry

On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 13:38:17 -0500, "Woodchuck"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Bought a new circular saw for the task which came with a carbide 24t and I
>also have a 200t steel veneer blade... so which would be the better choice
>if I cut the ply 1/4 over and then recut on table saw?

I do the same with a Makita cordless trim saw. In fact I often rough
the sheets out right in the trailer. <G>

Barry

Woodchuck wrote:

>I'm a rookie WWer and now ready to take a shot at making a bookcase. The
>side panels are to be cut from a 3/4 x 4 x 8sheet of red oak ply. The plans
>call for 11 3/4 x 72 and wondering what everyone else uses to cut the ply
>and keep it all straight? I have 2 ideas in mind, 1- tablesaw and several
>friends to hold the ply against the fence. 2-use my circular saw and a
>straight edge. I was thinking of cutting the width 1/4 wider than spec and
>then recut to size once they are cut from the 4x8ply.

For me, the easiest way to cut large panels is with a circular saw,
like this:

1. Get 2 or 3 pieces of 2" foam insulation (e.g., blueboard or
pinkboard), lay them flat on the floor (or any fairly flat surface)

2. Put the panel to be cut on top of the foam.

3. Set the depth of cut on the saw to about 1/4" (depth of tooth + 1
RCH) more than the thickness of the panel. This is a always good idea,
but particularly so when using this method.

4. Measure, clamp up your straight edge, and make your cut
while kneeling/crawling on the panel you're cutting.

I like this method MUCH better than using sawhorses or the
tablesaw. Nothing has a tendency to move around & you don't
have to worry about catching or dropping the offcut.

A couple more points:

1. If there is a "good" side to your panel, put it face down
when cutting with a circular saw, it will splinter less. Some
people put masking tape on the line of cut to reduce
splintering, but I've never found it neccesary (not with sharp
sawblades, anyway).

2. Use a good, sharp blade. I bought a 7 1/4" WWII just for cutting
panels like this.


R,
Tom Q.