DIY floor transition........

> Ive been dying to buy/build a router table, so it would be cool if I
> could use that but Im not sure (considering the possible length of
> material). I figure an 8' strip should be safe on either, but 20' or
> even 12' are cutting it close.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> -Chris

If you're talking about routing a profile along a 20' board, sure you
can do it on a router table. You'll need a few stock supports on each
side, and at least a helper or two for each side also. I'd setup
feather boards to ensure that the stock stays aligned as it goes thru
the cutter.

But, before getting into all of that, can you get material in 20'
lengths? Also, is it possible to get a 20' long board into the room?
I'd think that going with a few shorter sections would be _so_ much
easier, and if you're carefull in matching the grain at the joints
there shouldn't be much of a noticable joint line.

Another idea would be to use shorter sections with a decorative piece
of a contrasting wood at the joints. You could put a decorative piece
at each corner and one at the middle of each length - or some variation
that would suit your needs.

Good luck,

Mike

Thanks for the reply.

We actually can get a 20' piece into the room (its a "great room",
which the front door of the house opens directly into, so it would just
kinda slide right in). The hard part is actually going to be finding
20' where I can run this thru a router table (wifey not gonna be
thrilled if I fire up teh router table in the middle of the "great
room" :) ).

As far as finding a 20' piece, I havent exactly looked around just yet,
trying to get my bearings on what can and cannot be done. Lotta lumber
stores nearby, I wouldnt think it would be very hard to find a 20'
strip of oak, HD has up to 16'-ers, I figured the lumber stores might
do a little better. I could be wrong on that, so.....

Your idea of contrasting pieces is a good one, however Im not
experienced in joining the pieces together. I imagine I would make
sections of the 20' transition, and at the end of each section make
some sort of tongue that the smaller "transition" piece could sit on
top of? That might work, I suppose I could make the transition piece
out of the same material and like you said, just match up the grain.
Almost like a "connector" for each smaller section of transition strip.

Amazing the ideas on the internet! I never thought of that myself, but
now it actually seems like a great idea, if I cant get the 20' piece.

Amazon having a funky tool sale, the Benchdog Pro Top and Pro Fence are
coming out to 90.00 each for me. I just might order them and then just
build/buy a cheap cabinet separately (the full BenchDog setup comes out
to 281 shipped, didnt think their cabinet was worth the extra 100.00).

-Chris

Mike wrote:
> > Ive been dying to buy/build a router table, so it would be cool if I
> > could use that but Im not sure (considering the possible length of
> > material). I figure an 8' strip should be safe on either, but 20' or
> > even 12' are cutting it close.
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> > -Chris
>
> If you're talking about routing a profile along a 20' board, sure you
> can do it on a router table. You'll need a few stock supports on each
> side, and at least a helper or two for each side also. I'd setup
> feather boards to ensure that the stock stays aligned as it goes thru
> the cutter.
>
> But, before getting into all of that, can you get material in 20'
> lengths? Also, is it possible to get a 20' long board into the room?
> I'd think that going with a few shorter sections would be _so_ much
> easier, and if you're carefull in matching the grain at the joints
> there shouldn't be much of a noticable joint line.
>
> Another idea would be to use shorter sections with a decorative piece
> of a contrasting wood at the joints. You could put a decorative piece
> at each corner and one at the middle of each length - or some variation
> that would suit your needs.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Mike

[email protected] wrote:

> As far as finding a 20' piece, I havent exactly looked around just yet,
> trying to get my bearings on what can and cannot be done. Lotta lumber
> stores nearby, I wouldnt think it would be very hard to find a 20'
> strip of oak, HD has up to 16'-ers, I figured the lumber stores might
> do a little better. I could be wrong on that, so.....

If you do, you'll pay a premium price for a 20' length
Think 20%-30% over the cost of a 10ft piece.

--
BigEgg
Hack to size. Hammer to fit. Weld to join. Grind to shape. Paint to cover.
http://www.workshop-projects.com -
Plans and free books - *Now with forum*

On 1 Nov 2006 12:28:13 -0800, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Have an area 20' long and 12' deep that is carpet surrounded by parquet
>flooring. Wanted to make a transition strip to go between the two
>materials (a transition exists around most of the area, but an 8'
>length on the 20' dimension is new parquet, so the carpet is just
>sitting there exposed right now........and apparently exposed is an
>invite for my 9 month old son to grab the carpet and pull). I see 2
>options:
>
>1. Dont worry about matching the other molding thats there, and just
>get an 8' transition strip somewhere (if I can find one in stock)
>
>2. Make our own 8' transition strip and again not care if it matches
>the existing
>
>3. Make 2 monster pieces of transition strip, 20' and 12' long.
>Cleanest option because it will match, but how to do ?

I'd make it in 8 or 10 foot sections, then miter the joints where they
fit together and sink a nail or screw right through the overlap to tie
them together- just like any other kind of trim, really.

Just for the sake of clarity, you need to set the transition strip on
it's edge to cut the miters- not on it's bottom. Wouldn't do you much
good to miter it if the ends still just butt together, angled or no.