Hi guys, first time poster and first project that the wife though was a
good idea. I'm looking at building a stereo cabinet into my adjoing
wall with the garage. Dimensions are approx
(W)20in x (D) 24in x (H) 24in. My idea is to open the back of the wall
(garage side) and build off of one stud, cutting the other stud and
framing an opening, the framing will be built to support the cut stud.
Once the opening is made and framed, I was going to build a basic
cabinet out of MDF to slide into the opening and secured to the framed
studs and supported in the rear. I'm not to concerned on the cabicet
because it will be painted and not to visabe on the inside due to the
stereo equiptment and such. The back of the cabinet will be a door to
aid in setting up the wiring and a 4in hole for a cooling fan. Not sure
how to finish the front, molding painted around the opening for a
finished look and maybe a glass door.
Anyways, that is my idea, any other thoughs?
Greg
No car in the garage, just a storage/play area. Not sure how thick the
wall is, about 4-5in so the box should only hang out the back about
20in, not a major issue with my garage layout. I also planned to seal
the back door with a rubber door gasket or seal from the hardware
store.
[email protected] wrote:
> "Gottria" <[email protected]> spake thusly and wrote:
>
> >Anyways, that is my idea, any other thoughs?
>
> Do you park a car in the garage? Do you want car fumes in your
> house? Just something to consider.....
>
> Steve
> --
> www.sellcom.com for firewood splitters, ergonomic chairs,
> office phone systems, "non-mov" surge protection, Exabyte,
> CA, Minuteman, Brave Products, Fisch, TMC, Panasonic and more
> Check out http://www.guardian.name
Good point, the sheet rock has 2 layers and I think has some special
lining on the last layer. I almost thought of building the box,
installing it and then sheet rocking over the box just like the wall
was. Any thing special I can apply to it to make it fire rated? I don't
have to hinge the back but It would be easier to wire but alot safer if
it was a "sealed" box from the garage elements.
sd wrote:
> Check with your local building inspector. The wall between the garage
> and the rest of the house needs to be fire-rated. Installing a cabinet
> through this wall will create a fire hazard.
Gottria wrote:
> Hi guys, first time poster and first project that the wife though was a
> good idea. I'm looking at building a stereo cabinet into my adjoing
> wall with the garage. Dimensions are approx
> (W)20in x (D) 24in x (H) 24in. My idea is to open the back of the wall
> (garage side) and build off of one stud, cutting the other stud and
> framing an opening, the framing will be built to support the cut stud.
>
> Once the opening is made and framed, I was going to build a basic
> cabinet out of MDF to slide into the opening and secured to the framed
> studs and supported in the rear. I'm not to concerned on the cabicet
> because it will be painted and not to visabe on the inside due to the
> stereo equiptment and such. The back of the cabinet will be a door to
> aid in setting up the wiring and a 4in hole for a cooling fan. Not sure
> how to finish the front, molding painted around the opening for a
> finished look and maybe a glass door.
>
> Anyways, that is my idea, any other thoughs?
>
> Greg
If you have a two story house go upstairs and look for HVAC ducts,
electrical outlets, plumbing or anything else that may be in the way
inside the wall. Good idea to start on the garage side in case you
find something unexpected you can easily cover it back up.
Forget the hole in the back, if need be make the cabinet a little
bigger for the airflow you need. The book for your equipment will give
you the specs probably no more than two inches all the way around.
Frame around the entire backside of the box for insulation and cover it
back up with drywall. Even if you don't put a hole an uninsulated box
of that size will transfer heat in or out of the garage.
Build the cabinet first so you have it ready to shove in the hole once
you frame it out. Sand, prime, sand, paint, sand, paint to get a nice
finish.
You probably will want to put an electrical outlet in so you can power
the equipment. Also plan how you will get the speaker wires into the
cabinet without having them hang out the front.
Go bigger!
http://www.finewoodworkers.com/detail_pages/t_builtin.htm
Good thinking Ray, I like your idea of framing the back as well. The
good thing about my setup is all the speaker wires, front and surround
as well as satelitte cables run right through the same wall. Not sure
how to route then into the box, a 2-3in hole off the bottom and then
stuffed with insulation? I have an sub panel on the same wall about
15ft away so I was going to drop a 15amp circuit breaker and run a
dedicated line just for the AV equiptment. Again not sure how to pass
the power cables outside the box. I didn't want to put the AC in the
cabinet as I wante dmost of the wiring on the backside since I would
have easy access and a much cleaner look on the inside.
RayV wrote:
> Gottria wrote:
> > Hi guys, first time poster and first project that the wife though was a
> > good idea. I'm looking at building a stereo cabinet into my adjoing
> > wall with the garage. Dimensions are approx
> > (W)20in x (D) 24in x (H) 24in. My idea is to open the back of the wall
> > (garage side) and build off of one stud, cutting the other stud and
> > framing an opening, the framing will be built to support the cut stud.
> >
> > Once the opening is made and framed, I was going to build a basic
> > cabinet out of MDF to slide into the opening and secured to the framed
> > studs and supported in the rear. I'm not to concerned on the cabicet
> > because it will be painted and not to visabe on the inside due to the
> > stereo equiptment and such. The back of the cabinet will be a door to
> > aid in setting up the wiring and a 4in hole for a cooling fan. Not sure
> > how to finish the front, molding painted around the opening for a
> > finished look and maybe a glass door.
> >
> > Anyways, that is my idea, any other thoughs?
> >
> > Greg
>
> If you have a two story house go upstairs and look for HVAC ducts,
> electrical outlets, plumbing or anything else that may be in the way
> inside the wall. Good idea to start on the garage side in case you
> find something unexpected you can easily cover it back up.
>
> Forget the hole in the back, if need be make the cabinet a little
> bigger for the airflow you need. The book for your equipment will give
> you the specs probably no more than two inches all the way around.
> Frame around the entire backside of the box for insulation and cover it
> back up with drywall. Even if you don't put a hole an uninsulated box
> of that size will transfer heat in or out of the garage.
>
> Build the cabinet first so you have it ready to shove in the hole once
> you frame it out. Sand, prime, sand, paint, sand, paint to get a nice
> finish.
>
> You probably will want to put an electrical outlet in so you can power
> the equipment. Also plan how you will get the speaker wires into the
> cabinet without having them hang out the front.
>
> Go bigger!
> http://www.finewoodworkers.com/detail_pages/t_builtin.htm
Gottria wrote:
> Good thinking Ray, I like your idea of framing the back as well. The
> good thing about my setup is all the speaker wires, front and surround
> as well as satelitte cables run right through the same wall. Not sure
> how to route then into the box, a 2-3in hole off the bottom and then
> stuffed with insulation? I have an sub panel on the same wall about
> 15ft away so I was going to drop a 15amp circuit breaker and run a
> dedicated line just for the AV equiptment. Again not sure how to pass
> the power cables outside the box. I didn't want to put the AC in the
> cabinet as I wante dmost of the wiring on the backside since I would
> have easy access and a much cleaner look on the inside.
>
>
Look here for some gadgets that may help:
http://www.rockler.com/CategoryView.cfm?Cat_ID=200
You could put a false bottom that rests on cleats and shove all of the
excess wires inside (and the outlet). When I built mine I centered the
grommets in the back of the cabinet and you don't even notice any of
the wires.
Thanks Soctt, I have already discovered that. Any ideas to make it fire
safe?
Scott Lurndal wrote:
> "Gottria" <[email protected]> writes:
> >Hi guys, first time poster and first project that the wife though was a
> >good idea. I'm looking at building a stereo cabinet into my adjoing
> >wall with the garage. Dimensions are approx
> >(W)20in x (D) 24in x (H) 24in. My idea is to open the back of the wall
> >(garage side) and build off of one stud, cutting the other stud and
> >framing an opening, the framing will be built to support the cut stud.
> >
> >Once the opening is made and framed, I was going to build a basic
> >cabinet out of MDF to slide into the opening and secured to the framed
> >studs and supported in the rear. I'm not to concerned on the cabicet
> >because it will be painted and not to visabe on the inside due to the
> >stereo equiptment and such. The back of the cabinet will be a door to
> >aid in setting up the wiring and a 4in hole for a cooling fan. Not sure
> >how to finish the front, molding painted around the opening for a
> >finished look and maybe a glass door.
> >
> >Anyways, that is my idea, any other thoughs?
>
> First thought is that you'll have some problems with the Fire
> Marshall. There is supposed to be a fire barrier between
> the garage and living quarters.
>
> scott
"Gottria" <[email protected]> writes:
>Hi guys, first time poster and first project that the wife though was a
>good idea. I'm looking at building a stereo cabinet into my adjoing
>wall with the garage. Dimensions are approx
>(W)20in x (D) 24in x (H) 24in. My idea is to open the back of the wall
>(garage side) and build off of one stud, cutting the other stud and
>framing an opening, the framing will be built to support the cut stud.
>
>Once the opening is made and framed, I was going to build a basic
>cabinet out of MDF to slide into the opening and secured to the framed
>studs and supported in the rear. I'm not to concerned on the cabicet
>because it will be painted and not to visabe on the inside due to the
>stereo equiptment and such. The back of the cabinet will be a door to
>aid in setting up the wiring and a 4in hole for a cooling fan. Not sure
>how to finish the front, molding painted around the opening for a
>finished look and maybe a glass door.
>
>Anyways, that is my idea, any other thoughs?
First thought is that you'll have some problems with the Fire
Marshall. There is supposed to be a fire barrier between
the garage and living quarters.
scott
What about the hole for the fan? Can't seal that. Even if fumes are not a
problem, does it get cold where you are? A four inch hole can be the source
of quit a draft.
"Gottria" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> No car in the garage, just a storage/play area. Not sure how thick the
> wall is, about 4-5in so the box should only hang out the back about
> 20in, not a major issue with my garage layout. I also planned to seal
> the back door with a rubber door gasket or seal from the hardware
> store.
>
> [email protected] wrote:
> > "Gottria" <[email protected]> spake thusly and wrote:
> >
> > >Anyways, that is my idea, any other thoughs?
> >
> > Do you park a car in the garage? Do you want car fumes in your
> > house? Just something to consider.....
> >
> > Steve
> > --
> > www.sellcom.com for firewood splitters, ergonomic chairs,
> > office phone systems, "non-mov" surge protection, Exabyte,
> > CA, Minuteman, Brave Products, Fisch, TMC, Panasonic and more
> > Check out http://www.guardian.name
>
"Gottria" <[email protected]> spake thusly and wrote:
>Anyways, that is my idea, any other thoughs?
Do you park a car in the garage? Do you want car fumes in your
house? Just something to consider.....
Steve
--
www.sellcom.com for firewood splitters, ergonomic chairs,
office phone systems, "non-mov" surge protection, Exabyte,
CA, Minuteman, Brave Products, Fisch, TMC, Panasonic and more
Check out http://www.guardian.name