I'm playing around with the new bandsaw, and have a question.
I've had all three blades on it so far: a 1/4" x 14pt., a 3/8" x 6pt.,
and a 3/4" x 3pt. (way scary to unfold that one, and way overkill but I
didn't find a narrower one with 3tpi or less).
For each blade I need to fettle with the tension spacer and the
tensioner adjustment in general. Is this a normal thing with bandsaws?
I decided to leave the setscrew out of the spacer altogether, as I have
to adjust it with each blade change, and it tightens down on the threads
of the tension adjust rod... which can't be good if you're doing a lot
of blade changes.
er
--
email not valid
Leon wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:w%uYf.12454$zk4.5132@trnddc05...
>
>>Enoch Root wrote:
>>
>>>I'm playing around with the new bandsaw, and have a question.
>>>
>>>I've had all three blades on it so far: a 1/4" x 14pt., a 3/8" x 6pt.,
>>>and a 3/4" x 3pt. (way scary to unfold that one
>>
>>Just toss it onto the floor.
>
>
>
> Got a better suggestion for a blade 150" long? I toss mine out 5 to 7 times
> before they finally spring open.
Eh, I've responded to your new thread with something you might try.
er
--
email not valid
On Tue, 04 Apr 2006 09:44:33 -0700, Enoch Root <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>> What are you calling a "tension spacer" ???
>
>That thing which threads onto the tension rod between the block the
>quick release rides on when fully tensioned (at the top), and the
>carriage the wheel is fixed to (which in turn rides on ways in the
>frame). It doesn't directly contribute to the tension, but pushes down
>(when properly set) on the wheel carriage when the tension is released
>to bring the wheel down far enough to remove the blade. Think of it as
>a tension "preload" that keeps the spring compressed while the tension
>is released... but it's serving to reduce the length of travel required
>to get zero tension on the blade.
Sounds like part of the quick release, and there are different styles
of them. On mine the lever lowers the upper wheel a LOT if I let it
go all the way back, and regardless of what size blade is on there
it's flopping around loose without me doing anything for different
blades. Maybe if you mention the model of the saw you have someone
can chime in with better info.
-Leuf
Leon wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:w%uYf.12454$zk4.5132@trnddc05...
>> Enoch Root wrote:
>>> I'm playing around with the new bandsaw, and have a question.
>>>
>>> I've had all three blades on it so far: a 1/4" x 14pt., a 3/8" x
>>> 6pt., and a 3/4" x 3pt. (way scary to unfold that one
>>
>> Just toss it onto the floor.
>
>
> Got a better suggestion for a blade 150" long? I toss mine out 5 to
> 7 times before they finally spring open.
Throw it harder? :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Leon wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:w%uYf.12454$zk4.5132@trnddc05...
>
>>Enoch Root wrote:
>>
>>>I'm playing around with the new bandsaw, and have a question.
>>>
>>>I've had all three blades on it so far: a 1/4" x 14pt., a 3/8" x 6pt.,
>>>and a 3/4" x 3pt. (way scary to unfold that one
>>
>>Just toss it onto the floor.
>
>
>
> Got a better suggestion for a blade 150" long? I toss mine out 5 to 7 times
> before they finally spring open.
It's not any better with a 105" one. That thing won't toss, and if
you're holding it will come back at you with a pointy sharp vengeance.
Like holding a mad cat.
er
--
email not valid
"Enoch Root" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> For each blade I need to fettle with the tension spacer and the
> tensioner adjustment in general. Is this a normal thing with bandsaws?
>
Yep. Small blades would snap with the tension you'll need on that 3/4.
Oh yes, http://www.timberwolf1.com/ has a 1/2" 3TPI for us turners who cut
green wood.
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:w%uYf.12454$zk4.5132@trnddc05...
> Enoch Root wrote:
>> I'm playing around with the new bandsaw, and have a question.
>>
>> I've had all three blades on it so far: a 1/4" x 14pt., a 3/8" x 6pt.,
>> and a 3/4" x 3pt. (way scary to unfold that one
>
> Just toss it onto the floor.
Got a better suggestion for a blade 150" long? I toss mine out 5 to 7 times
before they finally spring open.
Leuf wrote:
> On Tue, 04 Apr 2006 09:44:33 -0700, Enoch Root <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>>What are you calling a "tension spacer" ???
>>
>>That thing which threads onto the tension rod between the block the
>>quick release rides on when fully tensioned (at the top), and the
>>carriage the wheel is fixed to (which in turn rides on ways in the
>>frame). It doesn't directly contribute to the tension, but pushes down
>>(when properly set) on the wheel carriage when the tension is released
>>to bring the wheel down far enough to remove the blade. Think of it as
>>a tension "preload" that keeps the spring compressed while the tension
>>is released... but it's serving to reduce the length of travel required
>>to get zero tension on the blade.
>
>
> Sounds like part of the quick release, and there are different styles
> of them. On mine the lever lowers the upper wheel a LOT if I let it
> go all the way back, and regardless of what size blade is on there
> it's flopping around loose without me doing anything for different
> blades. Maybe if you mention the model of the saw you have someone
> can chime in with better info.
It's a G0555 (Grizzly). I'm going to use it without the setscrew for a
few weeks, then, or until I stop having to adjust it.
Thanks.
er
--
email not valid
George wrote:
> "Enoch Root" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>For each blade I need to fettle with the tension spacer and the
>>tensioner adjustment in general. Is this a normal thing with bandsaws?
>>
>
>
> Yep. Small blades would snap with the tension you'll need on that 3/4.
>
> Oh yes, http://www.timberwolf1.com/ has a 1/2" 3TPI for us turners who cut
> green wood.
Hmm. Guess I wasn't clear. I've expanded on the tension spacer thingy
in a later response.
er
--
email not valid
Pat Barber wrote:
> You can buy almost any blade configuaration you can imagine.
>
> http://www.olsonsaw.com/downloads.html
>
> An excellent blade is a 1/2" 3tpi for "most" stuff.
That's the one I would have chosen for resaw, but a timberwolf in that
size wasn't offered by Grizzly. And I had to have one now...
Subtleties of unfolding a 3/4" x 105" angry kitty aside, the blade works
well on the saw, and paring off the saw marks is a matter of a few
passes with the plane.
> Yes... bandsaws require a great deal of "twitching" to make
> them do the job. Every blade change will require another
> complete setup of most adjustments.
>
> I wouldn't leave any parts out.
I will. I don't want to crush the threads on the adjustment bar, and it
doesn't move without out it for the length of time I usually have the
blade on and under tension (working). It's difficult to move
intentionally, and there's little enough vibration in the BS to assure
it won't be moving in operation.
> Have you done any reading on bandsaws ???
Yes. A lot. And had a more finicky one for a short time, to play with.
> What are you calling a "tension spacer" ???
That thing which threads onto the tension rod between the block the
quick release rides on when fully tensioned (at the top), and the
carriage the wheel is fixed to (which in turn rides on ways in the
frame). It doesn't directly contribute to the tension, but pushes down
(when properly set) on the wheel carriage when the tension is released
to bring the wheel down far enough to remove the blade. Think of it as
a tension "preload" that keeps the spring compressed while the tension
is released... but it's serving to reduce the length of travel required
to get zero tension on the blade.
> Most blades come with instructions on proper installation.
Yes. The instructions don't talk about what you have to deal with when
you buy too much blade for the bandsaw you've chosen. :)
I don't have a problem installing the blades, or adjusting the tension
for the blade. It's just surprising to me that setscrew would be used
and be positioned to crush the threads if the spacer needs to be
adjusted with every blade change. There're also no flats to set a
wrench on it--everything about its design tells me "set and forget" so I
had to ask.
> A good bit of tensioning is tighten,observe,repeat process.
Without a way to measure the tension accurately (forget about that
little indicator on the spring... I think it may have had some marginal
basis in reality before the riser block was fitted but...) I expected to
have to do that. I'm not asking how to tension the blade, though.
er
--
email not valid
On Tue, 04 Apr 2006 09:14:07 -0700, Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote:
>It's not any better with a 105" one. That thing won't toss, and if
>you're holding it will come back at you with a pointy sharp vengeance.
>
>Like holding a mad cat.
>
>er
opps.. I meant to include in my 1st post that being a devout coward, I keep a
pair of work gloves under the band saw, for handling blades..
I can usually give it a twist and open it ok, but not without gloves.. I
recommend the ones that have a bit of cuff/wrist protection..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
On Tue, 04 Apr 2006 09:46:10 -0700, Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote:
>George wrote:
>> "Enoch Root" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>For each blade I need to fettle with the tension spacer and the
>>>tensioner adjustment in general. Is this a normal thing with bandsaws?
>>>
>>
>>
>> Yep. Small blades would snap with the tension you'll need on that 3/4.
>>
>> Oh yes, http://www.timberwolf1.com/ has a 1/2" 3TPI for us turners who cut
>> green wood.
>
>Hmm. Guess I wasn't clear. I've expanded on the tension spacer thingy
>in a later response.
>
>er
Find a local saw shop and you can get any tooth/size/set that you want..
The shop I use also has a pretty good stock of "ready to pick up" blades and my
preference right now is a 3/8 6 tpi but they have it in 3 and 4 tpi, too..
As to blade tension.. what George said... the thinner the rubber band, the less
you can safely stretch it... or in bandsaw terms, the thicker the band, the ore
force it takes to stretch it..
I'm not sure what a tension spacer is, though?
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
Enoch Root wrote:
> I'm playing around with the new bandsaw, and have a question.
>
> I've had all three blades on it so far: a 1/4" x 14pt., a 3/8" x 6pt.,
> and a 3/4" x 3pt. (way scary to unfold that one
Just toss it onto the floor.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
You can buy almost any blade configuaration you can imagine.
http://www.olsonsaw.com/downloads.html
An excellent blade is a 1/2" 3tpi for "most" stuff.
Yes... bandsaws require a great deal of "twitching" to make
them do the job. Every blade change will require another
complete setup of most adjustments.
I wouldn't leave any parts out.
Have you done any reading on bandsaws ???
What are you calling a "tension spacer" ???
Most blades come with instructions on proper installation.
A good bit of tensioning is tighten,observe,repeat process.
Look for the "flutter method" of getting the correct temsion.
Enoch Root wrote:
> I'm playing around with the new bandsaw, and have a question.
>
> I've had all three blades on it so far: a 1/4" x 14pt., a 3/8" x 6pt.,
> and a 3/4" x 3pt. (way scary to unfold that one, and way overkill but I
> didn't find a narrower one with 3tpi or less).
>
> For each blade I need to fettle with the tension spacer and the
> tensioner adjustment in general. Is this a normal thing with bandsaws?
>
> I decided to leave the setscrew out of the spacer altogether, as I have
> to adjust it with each blade change, and it tightens down on the threads
> of the tension adjust rod... which can't be good if you're doing a lot
> of blade changes.
>
> er