Thanks for your time!
We've got decent oak legs built that need to be attached to a table
top. The top is laminated oak and maple. It's got a slight bow in
two different axis, so we're going to place sand bags on it after it's
temporarily secured to the legs to flatten it out. But my problem is
that we're trying to hide all the fasteners, so we've chosen to peg
everything together. We can't figure out how to make sure the holes
we will drill in the legs will match up with the holes we drill in the
table top. The legs are "L" shaped, which we pegged together using a
jig. But of course the jig doesn't work for a large sheet like a
table top. In addition, at the top of each leg (so it will be flush
with the top) a rail connects the legs. So currently, the legs are
attached to one another with the rail and form a free standing base.
They are perminantly glued, and pegged together.
So as you see, we (wife and I, yes we work together) need to drill the
holes in the table top and the top of the free standing base so that
the top can be perminantly attached to the legs. I suppose we're open
to other methods of fastening, but I prefer to use pegs and glue it.
Since that's what we've done on the rest of the table.
There will be one more step, and that is we are going to edge the
outside of the table top so the laminate is not visible. The edge
will stick up above the table's edge the width of a sheet of glass, so
that the top is protected.
I've included a picture so you can understand what the table looks
like.
Also, if you feel like a comment or two on what you think about
finishing. This is our first wood working project, so we don't know
much, we're just knocking around and seeing what happens. My only
experience is Minwax, which I used at my parents house when we framed
a staircase with oak to match Mom's cabinents in the kitchen.
Thanks again!
Emil
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1109794296.8f5ee7e79a242dfcffc7198afdd3118c@teranews...
> Thanks for your time!
>
> We've got decent oak legs built that need to be attached to a table
> top. The top is laminated oak and maple. It's got a slight bow in
> two different axis, so we're going to place sand bags on it after it's
> temporarily secured to the legs to flatten it out. But my problem is
> that we're trying to hide all the fasteners, so we've chosen to peg
> everything together. We can't figure out how to make sure the holes
> we will drill in the legs will match up with the holes we drill in the
> table top.
What is the to made from? If it is plywood or particleboard, you may be OK,
but if it is a wood glue up, you have to allow for wood movement. That mean
no solid attachments such as pegs. You later mentiohn laminate so it may
be on a man made products that is stable.
The legs are "L" shaped, which we pegged together using a
> jig. But of course the jig doesn't work for a large sheet like a
> table top. In addition, at the top of each leg (so it will be flush
> with the top) a rail connects the legs. So currently, the legs are
> attached to one another with the rail and form a free standing base.
> They are perminantly glued, and pegged together.
I'd attach a piece horizontally along the rails so the top is resting on the
rails as well as this added piece. Then drill through this piece and into
the top. Attach with screws, pegs, whatever. You can use an elongated hole
to allow for movement.
>
> I've included a picture so you can understand what the table looks
> like.
Pictures shold be posted on alt.binaries.oictures.woodworking This is a
text based newsgroup and piture files cause problems for some of us.
>
> Also, if you feel like a comment or two on what you think about
> finishing. This is our first wood working project, so we don't know
> much, we're just knocking around and seeing what happens. My only
> experience is Minwax, which I used at my parents house when we framed
> a staircase with oak to match Mom's cabinents in the kitchen.
So many ways to finish. Oils, shellac, latex paint. Hard to suggest not
knowing your preferences. Minwax is OK, but there are better alternatives.
Ed
This method works for me with the added assistance of a ruler and pencil.
Mark
"John" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Drill holes in legs, put dowel centers in holes, and use them to
> transfer the location to the underside of the table top. Try and
> flatten the table top BEFORE doing this
>
>
> On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 13:16:46 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >Thanks for your time!
> >
> >We've got decent oak legs built that need to be attached to a table
> >top. The top is laminated oak and maple. It's got a slight bow in
> >two different axis, so we're going to place sand bags on it after it's
> >temporarily secured to the legs to flatten it out. But my problem is
> >that we're trying to hide all the fasteners, so we've chosen to peg
> >everything together. We can't figure out how to make sure the holes
> >we will drill in the legs will match up with the holes we drill in the
> >table top. The legs are "L" shaped, which we pegged together using a
> >jig. But of course the jig doesn't work for a large sheet like a
> >table top. In addition, at the top of each leg (so it will be flush
> >with the top) a rail connects the legs. So currently, the legs are
> >attached to one another with the rail and form a free standing base.
> >They are perminantly glued, and pegged together.
> >
> >So as you see, we (wife and I, yes we work together) need to drill the
> >holes in the table top and the top of the free standing base so that
> >the top can be perminantly attached to the legs. I suppose we're open
> >to other methods of fastening, but I prefer to use pegs and glue it.
> >Since that's what we've done on the rest of the table.
> >
> >There will be one more step, and that is we are going to edge the
> >outside of the table top so the laminate is not visible. The edge
> >will stick up above the table's edge the width of a sheet of glass, so
> >that the top is protected.
> >
> >I've included a picture so you can understand what the table looks
> >like.
> >
> >Also, if you feel like a comment or two on what you think about
> >finishing. This is our first wood working project, so we don't know
> >much, we're just knocking around and seeing what happens. My only
> >experience is Minwax, which I used at my parents house when we framed
> >a staircase with oak to match Mom's cabinents in the kitchen.
> >
> >Thanks again!
> >Emil
>
Drill holes in legs, put dowel centers in holes, and use them to
transfer the location to the underside of the table top. Try and
flatten the table top BEFORE doing this
On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 13:16:46 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>Thanks for your time!
>
>We've got decent oak legs built that need to be attached to a table
>top. The top is laminated oak and maple. It's got a slight bow in
>two different axis, so we're going to place sand bags on it after it's
>temporarily secured to the legs to flatten it out. But my problem is
>that we're trying to hide all the fasteners, so we've chosen to peg
>everything together. We can't figure out how to make sure the holes
>we will drill in the legs will match up with the holes we drill in the
>table top. The legs are "L" shaped, which we pegged together using a
>jig. But of course the jig doesn't work for a large sheet like a
>table top. In addition, at the top of each leg (so it will be flush
>with the top) a rail connects the legs. So currently, the legs are
>attached to one another with the rail and form a free standing base.
>They are perminantly glued, and pegged together.
>
>So as you see, we (wife and I, yes we work together) need to drill the
>holes in the table top and the top of the free standing base so that
>the top can be perminantly attached to the legs. I suppose we're open
>to other methods of fastening, but I prefer to use pegs and glue it.
>Since that's what we've done on the rest of the table.
>
>There will be one more step, and that is we are going to edge the
>outside of the table top so the laminate is not visible. The edge
>will stick up above the table's edge the width of a sheet of glass, so
>that the top is protected.
>
>I've included a picture so you can understand what the table looks
>like.
>
>Also, if you feel like a comment or two on what you think about
>finishing. This is our first wood working project, so we don't know
>much, we're just knocking around and seeing what happens. My only
>experience is Minwax, which I used at my parents house when we framed
>a staircase with oak to match Mom's cabinents in the kitchen.
>
>Thanks again!
>Emil
In article <1109794296.8f5ee7e79a242dfcffc7198afdd3118c@teranews>,
[email protected] wrote:
...
> I've included a picture so you can understand what the table looks
> like.
>
...
You will note it never appeared on most servers.
Binaries (photo's, etc) are a minor no-no in most discussion groups,
and the "killed" by the server software, try posting it to
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking and a pointer here
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