We'll i took the plunge. [sort of] Picked up a vintage unisaw
yesterday. This be a good Q for you unisaw. the tag on the back of the
saw i bought does not look like any of those on your website. it is a
tad that appears to be welded in place and is not colored. just a
steel tab. the number is 64-0344. I figure this to mean it may have
been built in 1948. the fella i bought it from said it's a 3 phase 3
hp unisaw. im not so sure. I'm sure its a unisaw and im reasonably
sure it is 3 phase but everything i have read about saws of that era
tell me its probly 1 1/2 or 2 hp. anyway it has the 5 1/2" pully on
the motor so it aint 3450 rpm. is there any place that a 1725 rpm 3 hp
1 phase motor can be had for this saw?
I realy dont want to use a static phase converter as it will lose me
some hp and probly shorten the life of the motor. A rotory phase
converter is way too much money! I don't mind buying a motor but was
trying to get around spending an additional 50 bucks for a pulley. I
have a magnetic switch already. I'm not sure if this saw is worthy of
a gloat at 400 dollars as i will have to put quite a bit more in it
but the castings are in good shape and i think the saw is mechanicaly
sound. it cleaned up well. even the old jet lock fence seems
servicable. any advise or recomendations gladly accepted.
skeez
On Sat, 13 Sep 2003 22:54:19 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>skeez wrote:
>>We'll i took the plunge. [sort of] Picked up a vintage unisaw
>>yesterday.
>
>Well now, you are on your way.
>
oh goodie.
>>This be a good Q for you unisaw. the tag on the back of the
>>saw i bought does not look like any of those on your website. it is a
>>tad that appears to be welded in place and is not colored. just a
>>steel tab. the number is 64-0344.
>
>I'd have to see the tag before coming to any sort of
>conclusion. I'm certainly not casting aspersions but I have
>talked to a goodly many of people and when asked, "stand
>next to the machine and describe it", they can't.
>
this is the only destinctive thing on the saw. can't seem to find any
other names letters numbers or anything else for that matter. but as
yet i havn't removed anything exept the fence and some rust. hehehe.
>>I figure this to mean it may have been built in 1948.
>
>That would be correct.
>
kewl! now we getting somewhere.
>>the fella i bought it from said it's a 3 phase 3 hp unisaw. im not so
>>sure. I'm sure its a unisaw and im reasonably sure it is 3 phase but
>>everything i have read about saws of that era tell me its probly 1 1/2
>>or 2 hp.
>
>That would be correct (OK, I haven't consulted the text but
>I'm counting on the fact that you have) but remember, motors
>are only held on with a single hex head cap screw and a pin
>and all it would take to replace the motor is remove both
>and hang a newer motor in.
>
yes i know.
>It's that or the guy doesn't/didn't know what he was talking
>about. Let me ask you this, the motor, bullet end? Does it
>have seven holes drilled into the bell? Does it have a tag?
>
7 holes yes but so far as i can tell no tag.
>>anyway it has the 5 1/2" pully on the motor so it aint 3450 rpm.
>
>That is correct.
>
>>is there any place that a 1725 rpm 3 hp 1 phase motor can be had for this saw?
>
>No. When they made the change to 3 horsies they were only
>made available in 3450 RPM.
>
>Also, and before you move any way forward, if you are
>considering cutting the side into a garish rectangle to
>accept a newer motor, don't. This will lead to nothing but
>ruin for you and harm the saw forever. Of course none of
>this will matter because none of us will be able to think
>straight for lamentations of your wimmens will be so great
>that society and civilization as we know it will end.
>
i was hoping to NOT do any cutting on the cabinet. i went for the old
saw versus the new one cause i LIKE old tools better. i just didnt
think a phase converter was a viable solution. thats why i came here
first before i did anything i might regret.
>Oh, and if that doesn't sway you, I won't speak to you
>anymore either.
>
nuff said.
>>I realy dont want to use a static phase converter as it will lose me
>>some hp and probly shorten the life of the motor. A rotory phase
>>converter is way too much money!
>
>Not necessarily so. You can find one used or make one.
>Restoration Rick recently summoned me to his house to look
>at just such a thing he'd cobbled together from parts and
>pieces. He kept muttering over and over, "you just don't
>know how simple it is". (don't tell rick but i'm hoping
>he'll make me one just as simple)
>
im assuming you mean a rotary and not a static converter?
>>I don't mind buying a motor but was trying to get around spending
>>an additional 50 bucks for a pulley.
>
>See now, this is just where the wheels come offa the track
>so to speak. Now I'm about to come off as busting your
>chops and maybe I am but please don't read this the way it's
>written and take it for the bald face truth.
>
bust away!
>OK, ready? Good.
>
>You're starting off on the wrong foot. You're going about
>this all wrong. Specifically you've already drawn
>conclusions on just what it is you are going to do and just
>how you're going about getting there and all that's going to
>get you is a world or hurt and despair.
>
>What you should be doing is giving in. Let the Gods of Old
>Machinery have their way with you for a while. I'm guessing
>you think *you* bought the saw, right? Well I hate to be
>the one to bust your bubble but you are being taken for a
>ride. That saw found you and it will get it's way or die
>trying in the process. Give in, the ride is worth it.
>
>I'd tell you more but it's your turn to prove yourself.
ok.
>>I have a magnetic switch already.
>
>sigh...
>
>Vintage Unisaws have ball tipped Cutler-Hammer 2-pole
>switches like God and Herbert Tautz had intended them to
>have. What you really have to consider here is, electrons
>are the root of all evil. Keep them happy and life is good.
>Do things like introduce them to low voltage mag starters
>and you'll have the magic smoke pouring out of the motor.
>If you don't believe me consider this. The motor and switch
>on my saw are still running after 50-60 years.
>
the saw does not have a switch on it. the previouse owner removed it
for whatever reason. he gave me another switch but i dont know if its
any good. i allready had the mag switch so it doesn't have to be used
here if i don't need it. im sure i will find a use for it some where.
>>I'm not sure if this saw is worthy of a gloat at 400 dollars
>
>It is. I paid $700ish and don't regret a thing about it but
>then I don't mind spending a little more to get what I want.
>
>>as i will have to put quite a bit more in it but the castings are in
>>good shape and i think the saw is mechanicaly sound. it cleaned
>>up well. even the old jet lock fence seems servicable.
>
>Pictures?
>
ill go get some but the SWMBO will have to get em into the machine for
me. i aint so good with the teck stuff! lol. ill go sweet talk her and
let you know when i get em up.
>>any advise or recomendations gladly accepted.
>
>The only *advise* I can *advice* you on is, resistance is
>futile, join the OWWM.
>
>UA100
thank you so much for responding. i think i sent this message again
caquse i couldn't find it the first time. blind carpenter. interesting
concept huh? skeez
"Unisaw A100" typed in...
> My grandfather was a blind bus driver. OK, he was a bus
> driver that went blind.
What's that old joke? Oh yes, I remember!
"I want to die peacefully by slipping into a deep sleep and not recovering,
like my uncle did. Not screaming and yelling and blubbering like the people
in the bus he was driving at the time"
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 10:50:13 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>skeez wrote:
>>this is the only destinctive thing on the saw. can't seem to find any
>>other names letters numbers or anything else for that matter. but as
>>yet i havn't removed anything exept the fence and some rust. hehehe.
>
>Typically on a Unisaw of vintage you will find the serial
>number and the name Delta on the dust door. The trouble is,
>the dust doors are usually missing. In other words, buying
>a "complete" Unisaw is about as rare as things will get.
>
>>7 holes yes but so far as i can tell no tag.
>
>The seven holes indicate a 3 phase motor. You found the
>holes right almost on the tippy-tip of the bell. That
>smallish (2"-3") round spot would have been where you'd have
>found the tag on older motors. Look for a couple of holes
>where the drive screws would have held the tag. If so the
>motor can be figured to be 3/4 to 1 1/2 horse. Later motors
>had the larger tag on the cylinder body.
>
found 2 small holes on the bullet. they are near the outer edges and 2
3/4" apart/
>>i was hoping to NOT do any cutting on the cabinet. i went for the old
>>saw versus the new one cause i LIKE old tools better. i just didnt
>>think a phase converter was a viable solution. thats why i came here
>>first before i did anything i might regret.
>
>Thank you. By the way, did you see the reply on VFD's?
>
no i didn't. was that on owwm or here?
>>nuff said.
>
>See! Shunning does work.
>
>>im assuming you mean a rotary and not a static converter?
>
>Rotary or a VFD. I'll leave it to someone who has the
>knowledge of these things to explain. There is also a
>wealth of info archived on the OWWM forum.
>
i need to read some about these.
>>the saw does not have a switch on it. the previouse owner removed it
>>for whatever reason. he gave me another switch but i dont know if its
>>any good. i allready had the mag switch so it doesn't have to be used
>>here if i don't need it. im sure i will find a use for it some where.
>
>I should probably not have posted my own bias when it comes
>to this sort of thing. In the end it comes down to two
>priorities (in this order).
>
>1) Get the machine running and functional.
>
it will run. the previous owner fired it up and ran several hundred
feet of lumber through it while i was making the deal. they just had
it wired direct to the breaker and turned it on there to use it.
>2) Make it showroom shiney.
>
show room shiney may happen but i am more interested in rule number 1
for the moment. lol.
>Sounds like you have your priorities straight.
>
>>ill go get some but the SWMBO will have to get em into the machine for
>>me. i aint so good with the teck stuff! lol. ill go sweet talk her and
>>let you know when i get em up.
>
>I noticed you'd posted some to the bio-naries. Mind
>slipping them into an e-mail and shooting them over via the
>back channel?
>
no problem and ill get others if needed. i sized the pics down for
posting purposes would you like them full size? or maybe a little
better quality? im on cable so size dont matter on this end.
>>thank you so much for responding. i think i sent this message again
>>caquse i couldn't find it the first time. blind carpenter. interesting
>>concept huh?
>
>My grandfather was a blind bus driver. OK, he was a bus
>driver that went blind.
>
>UA100
My last Uni restoration was a saw that originally had the bullet motor
but was butchered to accomodate a newer motor. I recut the hole to a
more pleasing shape and mig welded a new flange to the inside of the
hole. It looks O.K.
I wouldn't close up too much of the cabinet, you will restrict the
airflow to the point where you are not getting any of the fine dust.
Still looking for a couple of dust doors. They are $135.00 from Delta.
Jamie
Unisaw A100 wrote:
>Andy Dingley wrote:
>
>>BTW - If it's necessary to cut a larger hole in the saw cabinet, is it
>>an easy task to replace the whole panel and just "butcher" the modern
>>panel ?
>>
>
>No. The saw cabinet is made up of four pressed and welded
>quadrant panels, i.e., they are pressed into corner panels
>and welded up the center lines on all four sides.
>
>The best case scenario in these situations is to find a saw
>pre-butchered by a former owner of questionable lineage.
>This way the taint is on their soul and you are left but to
>try and make things right which usually means cleaning up
>the butcher marks and installing a newer motor from Plaza
>Machinery.
>
>UA100
>
skeez wrote:
>this is the only destinctive thing on the saw. can't seem to find any
>other names letters numbers or anything else for that matter. but as
>yet i havn't removed anything exept the fence and some rust. hehehe.
Typically on a Unisaw of vintage you will find the serial
number and the name Delta on the dust door. The trouble is,
the dust doors are usually missing. In other words, buying
a "complete" Unisaw is about as rare as things will get.
>7 holes yes but so far as i can tell no tag.
The seven holes indicate a 3 phase motor. You found the
holes right almost on the tippy-tip of the bell. That
smallish (2"-3") round spot would have been where you'd have
found the tag on older motors. Look for a couple of holes
where the drive screws would have held the tag. If so the
motor can be figured to be 3/4 to 1 1/2 horse. Later motors
had the larger tag on the cylinder body.
>i was hoping to NOT do any cutting on the cabinet. i went for the old
>saw versus the new one cause i LIKE old tools better. i just didnt
>think a phase converter was a viable solution. thats why i came here
>first before i did anything i might regret.
Thank you. By the way, did you see the reply on VFD's?
>nuff said.
See! Shunning does work.
>im assuming you mean a rotary and not a static converter?
Rotary or a VFD. I'll leave it to someone who has the
knowledge of these things to explain. There is also a
wealth of info archived on the OWWM forum.
>the saw does not have a switch on it. the previouse owner removed it
>for whatever reason. he gave me another switch but i dont know if its
>any good. i allready had the mag switch so it doesn't have to be used
>here if i don't need it. im sure i will find a use for it some where.
I should probably not have posted my own bias when it comes
to this sort of thing. In the end it comes down to two
priorities (in this order).
1) Get the machine running and functional.
2) Make it showroom shiney.
Sounds like you have your priorities straight.
>ill go get some but the SWMBO will have to get em into the machine for
>me. i aint so good with the teck stuff! lol. ill go sweet talk her and
>let you know when i get em up.
I noticed you'd posted some to the bio-naries. Mind
slipping them into an e-mail and shooting them over via the
back channel?
>thank you so much for responding. i think i sent this message again
>caquse i couldn't find it the first time. blind carpenter. interesting
>concept huh?
My grandfather was a blind bus driver. OK, he was a bus
driver that went blind.
UA100
So whats the deal about how old it is and so on so long as you get the right
motoror at least get the existing one running whats the fuss about . The
motor on mine is huge and it's only about 3 horse ,you might end up reducing
it's life from 100 years to 90 .Lets face it they used to build motors in
the old days with plenty of copper and they used cast iron where cast iron
was needed and not sheet metal.
By the way I used to think the dust and the fags didn't matter either, I can
assure you with 20 /20 hindsight it does ....mjh
--
mike hide
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 14:36:14 GMT, "Mike Hide" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Your saw looks a lot like mine I believe the same vintage. fortumately
mine
> >had a single phase motor .
> >
> >my major problem as to convert it for a DC system .
> >
> >The cover as yours was missing however the new squarish ones fit fine and
> >run about $50 [available at redman in atlanta] I put some sloping ply
panels
> >on the inside of the base and cut a dust collection hole in the side to
fit
> >a 16 " standard AC duct [al a home depot].the ventilated door at the
front
> >was replaced with a solid ply panel. The hole in the base to allow for
blade
> >angle adjustment I stuff with dusters ,removeable when angled. The gaps
> >where the top is attached to the base have been filled with that plumbing
> >sealing foam stuff called STUFF I think which goes hard after a few
minutes.
> >If you are going to do this dont forget to caulk base where it sits on
the
> >floor .
> >
> >I painted the base but the color is wrong I need to get some paint the
right
> >color any ideas appreciated
>
> i don't use a dust collecter simply cause i have been in the carpentry
> line of work for the past 30 plus years. if there is going to be lung
> problems they are already there. my grandfather had an old saw mill
> and i worked there as a boy and i have smoked for the past 30 plus
> years so......... this saw has also been preveousely painted. after
> closer inspection i see that is why i can find no tags to speak of.
> there are plenty of holes in the cabinet that appear to be where all
> the plaques and labels were. the casting on the lower part of the base
> also has a crack but it doesn't appear to hurt the functionality of
> the saw. as i poke around a little more i'm finding all kinds of
> things. the pics i posted actually looked as if the top was rusty but
> it must have been the lighting as the top cleaned up very well. its
> shiny even! it has quite a bit of dents and dings in the top but i
> attribute that to 55 years of use in a production shop. looks as if it
> may have been use as a work bench from time to time. good luck trying
> to find the right color paint. skeez
>
Keeter,
<snippage of Unisaur tidbits>
> >im assuming you mean a rotary and not a static converter?
>
> Rotary or a VFD. I'll leave it to someone who has the
> knowledge of these things to explain. There is also a
> wealth of info archived on the OWWM forum.
Rotary. VFD is a device that allows you to take single phase input and
create variable 3 phase power so that you can control the speed of the
target device. I don't think you'd want to put one on a table saw, but
they would do quite well on a DP, shaper, or lathe.
You can pick up used 3 phase motors for a dime a dozen, and the
components to build a converter would run from $20-100 depending on HP
ratings and newness of parts.
Resto Rick
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 13 Sep 2003 22:54:19 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
{{.. munch ..}}
>
> i think i sent this message again
>caquse i couldn't find it the first time. blind carpenter. interesting
>concept huh? skeez
The blind carpenter is _well_ known. "... he picked up his hammer and saw."
I *presume* you had a hammer, before you picked up this saw.
Keeter et all,
If this is indeed a 3 HP 3-phase motor and one would want to run it on
single phase, one may wish to consider a variable frequency drive (aka VFD).
Now, some folks will say they cost an arm and a leg, that they're big,
complicated and will mess up the electrons forever ... and "once upon a
time" some of this information was correct. That was then, this is ... uh
not then.
http://web3.automationdirect.com/store/Shopping/Catalog/Drives/AC_Micro_Drives_(GS_Series)/GS2_Drives/GS2-23P0
shows $379.00 will get you a VFD sufficient for historic needs (1) ... and
the best part is you don't have to hack anything up to make it work. You can
use the ball-tip switch to provide power to the drive (hidden within the
cabinet if you wish), set the drive to line-start (2) and be done with it.
Single phase 220 in, 3-phase 220 out ... PLUS you get a smooth start when
you power it on. If you are willing to use that ball-tip switch to control
the on-off function of the drive (and use the panel-mounted circuit breaker
to shut the drive off), you can have both a ramp start and a ramp stop (with
DC braking) ... so the blade doesn't coast for an hour and a half (great
motor, good bearings, and so on). Your belts will last longer because they
aren't playing catchup on startup (thump removal).
Don't want to fuss with putting this into the cabinet? Mount it to the wall,
and just use it as a phase converter that doesn't rob you of horsepower.
Endless options ... all easily done without fuss. (3)
From time to time Automation Direct puts some drives on clearance ... couple
of months ago, 1 HP drive was around $100.00. Drive costs (especially the
no-frills ones WITHOUT vector drive capability) are dropping monthly ...
though the curve really flattens out before the manufacturers are paying you
to take them off their hands. (4)
Now there will be those who will holler that a phase converter is cheaper
... and the answer is maybe so. They do require a bit of space (the VFD does
too ... but not nearly as much as one would believe). Static phase
converters do cost in terms of horsepower, and unless you're only lighting
off the saw to see it spin once in a while, you'll probably want a heavy
duty converter. Rotary converters are big, noisy, expensive heat generators
that do as advertised ... but unless you REALLY need a pure sinewave (and
for a saw you DON'T), you really don't need a rotary converter. Got one free
... That's a different story ... use it.
Rick
(Who is still waiting for his Unisaw to adopt him)
(1) historic needs meaning you don't have to change the motor, hack up the
cabinet, chase after the impossible to find, look for your lost dog, etc.
(2) Line start means the drive starts up as soon as 220 power is applied. No
additional switches needed. You can have a slow ramp-up ... but when you
shut the power off ... the motor and blade will coast to a stop rather than
being driven/braked to a quick stop.
(3) Assuming you can read the installation manual, understand just a little
bit about electricity and 220 VAC wiring, or aren't afraid to ask someone to
help with same.
(4) Like THAT's going to happen.
(5) Just checking to see who's paying attention.
------
pretty much random snipping ---------------------------->
>
> >the fella i bought it from said it's a 3 phase 3 hp unisaw. im not so
> >sure. I'm sure its a unisaw and im reasonably sure it is 3 phase but
> >everything i have read about saws of that era tell me its probly 1 1/2
> >or 2 hp.
>
>
> >is there any place that a 1725 rpm 3 hp 1 phase motor can be had for this
saw?
>
> No. When they made the change to 3 horsies they were only
> made available in 3450 RPM.
>
> Also, and before you move any way forward, if you are
> considering cutting the side into a garish rectangle to
> accept a newer motor, don't. This will lead to nothing but
> ruin for you and harm the saw forever. Of course none of
> this will matter because none of us will be able to think
> straight for lamentations of your wimmens will be so great
> that society and civilization as we know it will end.
>
And you thought I'd forgotten. (5)
On Sat, 13 Sep 2003 21:14:11 GMT, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm sure its a unisaw and im reasonably
>sure it is 3 phase but everything i have read about saws of that era
>tell me its probly 1 1/2 or 2 hp. anyway it has the 5 1/2" pully on
>the motor so it aint 3450 rpm.
>is there any place that a 1725 rpm 3 hp
>1 phase motor can be had for this saw?
It's not that hard to find a low-rpm 3HP motor. But you're unlikely
to find one that's still the right size. I think you'lll either have
to drop the power, or deal with the high rpm.
>I realy dont want to use a static phase converter as it will lose me
>some hp and probly shorten the life of the motor.
The "box of capacitors" sort are expensive and just never work right.
The only thing worse than one on a saw is one on a thicknesser. You
also need either one per machine, or to be continually re-adjusting
them.
If I were going to buy a phase converter these days, I'd look at VFD.
>A rotory phase converter is way too much money!
So build one ! All you need is a hunky great 3 phase motor and a look
at the Old Woodworking Machines site.
A UK trick is to use the orginal motor as the converter and fit a
smaller motor to the machine. We have a problem here where our small
machines are more powerful than the USA (240V rather than 110V) but
our 240V domestic supplies are a lower current than your 220V domestic
supplies. A real 3HP in the UK often means installing a 3 phase
supply, just to get enough power.
>I have a magnetic switch already.
Good. Those old non-NVR switches scare me.
BTW - If it's necessary to cut a larger hole in the saw cabinet, is it
an easy task to replace the whole panel and just "butcher" the modern
panel ?
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 12:04:49 GMT, "Groggy" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Unisaw A100" typed in...
>
>> My grandfather was a blind bus driver. OK, he was a bus
>> driver that went blind.
>
>What's that old joke? Oh yes, I remember!
>
>"I want to die peacefully by slipping into a deep sleep and not recovering,
>like my uncle did. Not screaming and yelling and blubbering like the people
>in the bus he was driving at the time"
>
lmao.
On Sat, 13 Sep 2003 23:45:33 GMT, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
ok im posting some pics on ABPW. damn that woman is good!!!
skeez
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 02:01:44 GMT, "Rick" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Keeter et all,
>
>If this is indeed a 3 HP 3-phase motor and one would want to run it on
>single phase, one may wish to consider a variable frequency drive (aka VFD).
>Now, some folks will say they cost an arm and a leg, that they're big,
>complicated and will mess up the electrons forever ... and "once upon a
>time" some of this information was correct. That was then, this is ... uh
>not then.
>
>http://web3.automationdirect.com/store/Shopping/Catalog/Drives/AC_Micro_Drives_(GS_Series)/GS2_Drives/GS2-23P0
>
there site may be down. ill search for these today. thanks.
>shows $379.00 will get you a VFD sufficient for historic needs (1) ... and
>the best part is you don't have to hack anything up to make it work. You can
>use the ball-tip switch to provide power to the drive (hidden within the
>cabinet if you wish), set the drive to line-start (2) and be done with it.
>Single phase 220 in, 3-phase 220 out ... PLUS you get a smooth start when
>you power it on. If you are willing to use that ball-tip switch to control
>the on-off function of the drive (and use the panel-mounted circuit breaker
>to shut the drive off), you can have both a ramp start and a ramp stop (with
>DC braking) ... so the blade doesn't coast for an hour and a half (great
>motor, good bearings, and so on). Your belts will last longer because they
>aren't playing catchup on startup (thump removal).
>
>Don't want to fuss with putting this into the cabinet? Mount it to the wall,
>and just use it as a phase converter that doesn't rob you of horsepower.
>
the cheepest rotory i found was 375 so 379 aint no stretch. i like the
idea of not loosing any power as i dont beleive this is 3 hp anyway.
after suggestions from unisaw a100 im thinkin 1 1/2 hp tops.
>Endless options ... all easily done without fuss. (3)
>
>
>From time to time Automation Direct puts some drives on clearance ... couple
>of months ago, 1 HP drive was around $100.00. Drive costs (especially the
>no-frills ones WITHOUT vector drive capability) are dropping monthly ...
>though the curve really flattens out before the manufacturers are paying you
>to take them off their hands. (4)
>
>Now there will be those who will holler that a phase converter is cheaper
>... and the answer is maybe so. They do require a bit of space (the VFD does
>too ... but not nearly as much as one would believe). Static phase
>converters do cost in terms of horsepower, and unless you're only lighting
>off the saw to see it spin once in a while, you'll probably want a heavy
>duty converter. Rotary converters are big, noisy, expensive heat generators
>that do as advertised ... but unless you REALLY need a pure sinewave (and
>for a saw you DON'T), you really don't need a rotary converter. Got one free
>... That's a different story ... use it.
>
>
nope no freebees yet! gonna have to buy somthing anyway as long as its
comparable im open to all suggestions.
>Rick
>
>(Who is still waiting for his Unisaw to adopt him)
>
>(1) historic needs meaning you don't have to change the motor, hack up the
>cabinet, chase after the impossible to find, look for your lost dog, etc.
>
>(2) Line start means the drive starts up as soon as 220 power is applied. No
>additional switches needed. You can have a slow ramp-up ... but when you
>shut the power off ... the motor and blade will coast to a stop rather than
>being driven/braked to a quick stop.
>
that isn't a problem. keeps the naborhood cats guessin ya know! lol.
>(3) Assuming you can read the installation manual, understand just a little
>bit about electricity and 220 VAC wiring, or aren't afraid to ask someone to
>help with same.
>
electricity aint my strong suit but i got freinds who know more. dont
mind asking at all.
>(4) Like THAT's going to happen.
>
>(5) Just checking to see who's paying attention.
>
>
>
>------
>pretty much random snipping ---------------------------->
>
>
>>
>> >the fella i bought it from said it's a 3 phase 3 hp unisaw. im not so
>> >sure. I'm sure its a unisaw and im reasonably sure it is 3 phase but
>> >everything i have read about saws of that era tell me its probly 1 1/2
>> >or 2 hp.
>>
>>
>> >is there any place that a 1725 rpm 3 hp 1 phase motor can be had for this
>saw?
>>
>> No. When they made the change to 3 horsies they were only
>> made available in 3450 RPM.
>>
>> Also, and before you move any way forward, if you are
>> considering cutting the side into a garish rectangle to
>> accept a newer motor, don't. This will lead to nothing but
>> ruin for you and harm the saw forever. Of course none of
>> this will matter because none of us will be able to think
>> straight for lamentations of your wimmens will be so great
>> that society and civilization as we know it will end.
>>
>And you thought I'd forgotten. (5)
>