I wanted to test fine woodworking's glue tests to see if Titebond III
Ultimate Wood Glue glues oily woods better then gorilla glue.
Well I wanted to get as accurate as possible so I used the same
piece of wood for both glues. I freshly surfaced the woods before I
glued them up. For the poly test I dampened both sides as that makes a
stronger bond. I glued up padouk ipe and cocobolo.
I clamped the pieces overnight and then I broke them part while
they spanned a gap.
Cocobolo broke with the least effort though it seemed it took more
work to break the titebond joint. There was a tiny bit of wood stuck
to one side of the joint with titebond non on the gorilla glue joint.
Next was padouk both joints were stronger then the wood as the pics
show.
Then ipe the titebond joint was stronger but not by a huge amount.
Almost no wood was stuck to the other piece on the gorilla glue test
and about ½ the surface on the titebond test.
So I guess now titebond does glue oily woods better.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/pictures/gluetest1.JPG
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/pictures/gluetest2.JPG
On Aug 7, 10:41 pm, Steve knight <[email protected]> wrote:
> I wanted to test fine woodworking's glue tests to see if Titebond III
> Ultimate Wood Glue glues oily woods better then gorilla glue.
> Well I wanted to get as accurate as possible so I used the same
> piece of wood for both glues. I freshly surfaced the woods before I
> glued them up. For the poly test I dampened both sides as that makes a
> stronger bond. I glued up padouk ipe and cocobolo.
> I clamped the pieces overnight and then I broke them part while
> they spanned a gap.
> Cocobolo broke with the least effort though it seemed it took more
> work to break the titebond joint. There was a tiny bit of wood stuck
> to one side of the joint with titebond non on the gorilla glue joint.
> Next was padouk both joints were stronger then the wood as the pics
> show.
> Then ipe the titebond joint was stronger but not by a huge amount.
> Almost no wood was stuck to the other piece on the gorilla glue test
> and about =BD the surface on the titebond test.
> So I guess now titebond does glue oily woods better.http://www.knight-=
toolworks.com/pictures/gluetest1.JPGhttp://www.knight-toolworks.com/picture=
s/gluetest2.JPG
Not sure if you recall an epoxy by name of Dalbond. Was specifically
formulated for oily tropicals like cocobolo.
"Steve knight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I wanted to test fine woodworking's glue tests to see if Titebond III
> Ultimate Wood Glue glues oily woods better then gorilla glue.
> Well I wanted to get as accurate as possible so I used the same
> piece of wood for both glues. I freshly surfaced the woods before I
> glued them up. For the poly test I dampened both sides as that makes a
> stronger bond. I glued up padouk ipe and cocobolo.
> I clamped the pieces overnight and then I broke them part while
> they spanned a gap.
> Cocobolo broke with the least effort though it seemed it took more
> work to break the titebond joint. There was a tiny bit of wood stuck
> to one side of the joint with titebond non on the gorilla glue joint.
> Next was padouk both joints were stronger then the wood as the pics
> show.
> Then ipe the titebond joint was stronger but not by a huge amount.
> Almost no wood was stuck to the other piece on the gorilla glue test
> and about ½ the surface on the titebond test.
> So I guess now titebond does glue oily woods better.
> http://www.knight-toolworks.com/pictures/gluetest1.JPG
> http://www.knight-toolworks.com/pictures/gluetest2.JPG
>
I am finding that the best glue for Ipe and outdoor use is the one with
threads on it and looks like a screw. :~)
"Ron Magen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:usFui.9813$CE4.7886@trndny03...
> Steve,
>
> As a boatbuilder I believe in epoxy as the 'Ultimate' adhesive. However, I
> do use Titebond III as my 'standard' for non-water immersed applications.
> Also I recently did some experiments with 'Gorilla' and the Elmers brand
> of
> poly's - for a Non-Wood application.
>
> A suggestion, if I may. To increase the attachment with 'exotics' or known
> 'oily' woods - wipe the mating surfaces with a cloth dampened with
> Acetone,
> or a similar solvent. {It should dry almost instantly}Immediately apply
> the
> adhesive and proceed with your standard methodology.
>
> Regards & Good Luck,
> Ron Magen
> Backyard Boatshop
I think Ipe may be a different beast. I have on 3 different occasions glued
Ipe with TB III once, and polyurethane twice. These were rather
insignificant projects, a cutting board for out door BBQ, Outdoor Flag
Mount, and outdoor gate handle. All 3 were made from scraps, prepped with
acetone, and remained in doors for a few months waiting for a project to use
them on. All three have failed at the glue lines after being outdoors.
"Steve knight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>>I think Ipe may be a different beast. I have on 3 different occasions
>>glued
>>Ipe with TB III once, and polyurethane twice. These were rather
>>insignificant projects, a cutting board for out door BBQ, Outdoor Flag
>>Mount, and outdoor gate handle. All 3 were made from scraps, prepped with
>>acetone, and remained in doors for a few months waiting for a project to
>>use
>>them on. All three have failed at the glue lines after being outdoors.
>
> the acetone did not help matters it tends to pull the oil to the
> surface.
> still got to test e6000 that stuff sticks to everything and with a
> little flex tends to hold up well to wood movemen
I would like to know how the e6000 holds up as so far I have not found a
glue tha holds up outdoors with Ipe. I have not had a problem if the wood
stays dry.
>I think Ipe may be a different beast. I have on 3 different occasions glued
>Ipe with TB III once, and polyurethane twice. These were rather
>insignificant projects, a cutting board for out door BBQ, Outdoor Flag
>Mount, and outdoor gate handle. All 3 were made from scraps, prepped with
>acetone, and remained in doors for a few months waiting for a project to use
>them on. All three have failed at the glue lines after being outdoors.
the acetone did not help matters it tends to pull the oil to the
surface.
still got to test e6000 that stuff sticks to everything and with a
little flex tends to hold up well to wood movement.
Steve,
That's the point of the exercise. And the fact that I usually 'test'
everything before a critical application.
Typically, the application 'cloth' is only slightly dampened {I use folded
paper towels}. This way you wipe on the solvent, and wipe off any 'residue'
at the same time. In your case, with this particular wood, you may want to
try another technique. Wipe on the Acetone {or another solvent, with a
slightly slower evaporation rate}, and a few seconds later wipe it off with
a dry cloth . . . taking up the solvent and suspended 'contaminants'.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"Steve knight" <[email protected]> wrote
SNIP
> the acetone did not help matters it tends to pull the oil to the surface.
SNIP
Steve,
As a boatbuilder I believe in epoxy as the 'Ultimate' adhesive. However, I
do use Titebond III as my 'standard' for non-water immersed applications.
Also I recently did some experiments with 'Gorilla' and the Elmers brand of
poly's - for a Non-Wood application.
A suggestion, if I may. To increase the attachment with 'exotics' or known
'oily' woods - wipe the mating surfaces with a cloth dampened with Acetone,
or a similar solvent. {It should dry almost instantly}Immediately apply the
adhesive and proceed with your standard methodology.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"Steve knight" <[email protected]> wrote ..
> I wanted to test fine woodworking's glue tests to see if Titebond III
> Ultimate Wood Glue glues oily woods better then gorilla glue.
SNIP
I glued up padouk ipe and cocobolo.