<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> On 28 Jun 2004 00:17:36 -0700, [email protected] (c a) wrote:
> Remember it loosens clockwise.
Wrong. Loosen the nut or bolt in the direction that the blade turns.
"Vic Baron" writes:
> What the heck for?? The all work, they all cut. Why throw away a perfectly
> good tool and spend good money on another because of some anal mentality
> towards CRAFTSMAN products.
>
> Stupid advice like that sucks, IMHO.
>
> NOW, ask me how I REALLY feel.
You are certainly entitled to your disillusions, as long as your pocket book
can support them.
As I have said before, "Buy 'em books, they eat the covers".
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
On 30 Jun 2004 05:45:03 -0700, [email protected] (Jay) wrote:
>[email protected] wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 20:17:41 GMT, "Vic Baron" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Well, Bighole - If I needed a stone axe I would still use it if I had one.
>> >
>> >Your point?
>> >
>> >Up until the point that one of them breaks, an equally powered Craftsman,
>> >Ryobi, Makita, DeWalt, etc circular saw with an equal blade ALL WILL CUT THE
>> >SAME. My comment referenced the stupid idea that one should throw out a
>> >perfectly good tool because it's a lower quality. Can it still cut a 2x4?
>> >Can it still cut the 2x4 as good as a DeWalt? Yes? Good - then keep the damn
>> >thing.
>> >
>> >Vic
>>
>> if all you're going to do is cut the odd 2x4, sure.
>>
>> if you're going to try to do precision work with it, you'll want a saw
>> with better beraings and a better shoe.
>
>Who does precision work with a circular saw? I thought you just rough
>it straight with a guide and then clean it up on the table saw...
I do, when I can't get the piece to the table saw....
I don't see where you can come up with that conclusion in my post. And no
one said anything about tossing anything.
Why don't you read and understand before making a comment that makes no
sense at all unless you're a troll. If you like the Craftsman brand of
tools - go buy them. I simply told of my experience and I certainly can't
recommend the Craftsman brand. Others in the group agree and others, like
yourself don't - that's why Sears is still selling crap tools.
Bob S.
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Well, let's see, according to you his saw is going to burn out real soon.
> So why shouldn't he wait until that happens to toss it and get a new one
> instead of tossing it and getting a new one right now?
>
> > Bob S.
> >
> >
> >
> > "Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> What the heck for?? The all work, they all cut. Why throw away a
> >> perfectly good tool and spend good money on another because of some
anal
> >> mentality towards CRAFTSMAN products.
> >>
> >> Stupid advice like that sucks, IMHO.
> >>
> >> NOW, ask me how I REALLY feel.
> >>
> >> :)
>
> --
> --John
> Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
> (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
I can't belive no one has said it yet. You throw away the crapsman and
replace it with a PC, DeWalt, Makita or any other DECENT saw.
[email protected] (c a) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> i have a craftsman 7.25" saw and cant figure out how to remove and
> replace the blade. any help would be appreciated!
>
> thanks.
I suppose you still would use a stone axe because it hasn't broken yet.
"Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> What the heck for?? The all work, they all cut. Why throw away a perfectly
> good tool and spend good money on another because of some anal mentality
> towards CRAFTSMAN products.
>
> Stupid advice like that sucks, IMHO.
>
> NOW, ask me how I REALLY feel.
>
> :)
>
> "Bigpole" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I can't belive no one has said it yet. You throw away the crapsman and
> > replace it with a PC, DeWalt, Makita or any other DECENT saw.
> >
> > [email protected] (c a) wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
> > > i have a craftsman 7.25" saw and cant figure out how to remove and
> > > replace the blade. any help would be appreciated!
> > >
> > > thanks.
You mean you wouldn't replace the stone axe with a nice sharp metal
axe that will make your life a lot easier!
"Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Well, Bighole - If I needed a stone axe I would still use it if I had one.
>
> Your point?
>
> Up until the point that one of them breaks, an equally powered Craftsman,
> Ryobi, Makita, DeWalt, etc circular saw with an equal blade ALL WILL CUT THE
> SAME. My comment referenced the stupid idea that one should throw out a
> perfectly good tool because it's a lower quality. Can it still cut a 2x4?
> Can it still cut the 2x4 as good as a DeWalt? Yes? Good - then keep the damn
> thing.
>
> Vic
>
> "Bigpole" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I suppose you still would use a stone axe because it hasn't broken yet.
> >
> > "Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
> > > What the heck for?? The all work, they all cut. Why throw away a
> perfectly
> > > good tool and spend good money on another because of some anal mentality
> > > towards CRAFTSMAN products.
> > >
> > > Stupid advice like that sucks, IMHO.
> > >
> > > NOW, ask me how I REALLY feel.
> > >
> > > :)
> > >
> > > "Bigpole" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > I can't belive no one has said it yet. You throw away the crapsman and
> > > > replace it with a PC, DeWalt, Makita or any other DECENT saw.
> > > >
> > > > [email protected] (c a) wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
> > > > > i have a craftsman 7.25" saw and cant figure out how to remove and
> > > > > replace the blade. any help would be appreciated!
> > > > >
> > > > > thanks.
[email protected] (c a) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> i have a craftsman 7.25" saw and cant figure out how to remove and
> replace the blade. any help would be appreciated!
>
> thanks.
Method A:
Tools needed:
Roto-zip with metal-cutting burr
J-B Weld
Straightedge and marker
Ball-peen hammer, Vise-grip pliers
Instructions:
Unplug the circular saw. Safety first, pumpkin.
Use the straightedge and marker to mark a straight line across the
blade that goes through the center (diameter line) Ensure that the
line begins and ends between teeth of the blade. It is recommended
that you use a Starrett straightedge for this procedure. Any
innacuracies caused by using such crude devices as a plain old ruler
are at your own risk.
Use the roto-zip to _carefully_ cut through the blade along this line.
The arbor nut may make cutting all the way to the center impossible.
If this is the case, remove the arbor nut to access the center. "Left
to loose"
With the blade guard held in the open position, carefully pull one
half of the blade out of the saw. Be careful as the teeth of the blade
are sharp and may poke you. For added safety, wear welding gloves
during this operation.
Rotate the second half of the blade around and remove it in the same
manner as the first half. If the blade gets stuck while rotating, plug
the saw back in and quickly pull and release the trigger to dislodge.
If this is necessary, you should wear a face shield and kevlar vest.
These can be purchased at Harbor Freight for $6.98.
Using the metal-cutting tool of your choice, cut the new blade in
half, being sure to cut in between the teeth of the blade rather than
directly on a tooth. Alternatively, you can set half the blade in a
vice and bend the other half back and forth until it breaks loose.
Insert the new blade in the saw in the opposite manner as described
when removing the blade. If you plugged the saw in to remove the
blade, you may wish to unplug the saw at this time. Be sure to wear
welding gloves as the teeth of the blade are sharp.
Mix up the two tubes of J-B weld as described on the package. If you
are still wearing welding gloves, remove them and put on cute leather
driving gloves. You know, the kind with knuckle holes.
Use the J-B weld to glue the two halfs of the blade together. If you
are having trouble spreading the epoxy, use an exposed knuckle to work
the epoxy into the joint.
When drying is complete use the ball-peen hammer and/or vise grip
pliers to straighten the blade. Be careful not to damage the blade
guard during this operation. It will be needed later.
If you have previously removed the arbor nut, replace it at this time.
"Right to tight"
Before you use the power tool, lets take a moment to talk about shop
safety. Be sure to read, follow, and understand the instructions that
came with your tool. And remember, the is no more important rule that
to wear these, safety glasses.
Make a test cut in the heel of your shoe. Ensure that the depth of the
saw cut will not penetrate your sole. If you lose your sole, consult
you priest, minister, emam, and/or rabbi.
Method B:
RTFM.
[email protected] wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 20:17:41 GMT, "Vic Baron" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Well, Bighole - If I needed a stone axe I would still use it if I had one.
> >
> >Your point?
> >
> >Up until the point that one of them breaks, an equally powered Craftsman,
> >Ryobi, Makita, DeWalt, etc circular saw with an equal blade ALL WILL CUT THE
> >SAME. My comment referenced the stupid idea that one should throw out a
> >perfectly good tool because it's a lower quality. Can it still cut a 2x4?
> >Can it still cut the 2x4 as good as a DeWalt? Yes? Good - then keep the damn
> >thing.
> >
> >Vic
>
> if all you're going to do is cut the odd 2x4, sure.
>
> if you're going to try to do precision work with it, you'll want a saw
> with better beraings and a better shoe.
Who does precision work with a circular saw? I thought you just rough
it straight with a guide and then clean it up on the table saw...
Well, Bighole - If I needed a stone axe I would still use it if I had one.
Your point?
Up until the point that one of them breaks, an equally powered Craftsman,
Ryobi, Makita, DeWalt, etc circular saw with an equal blade ALL WILL CUT THE
SAME. My comment referenced the stupid idea that one should throw out a
perfectly good tool because it's a lower quality. Can it still cut a 2x4?
Can it still cut the 2x4 as good as a DeWalt? Yes? Good - then keep the damn
thing.
Vic
"Bigpole" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I suppose you still would use a stone axe because it hasn't broken yet.
>
> "Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > What the heck for?? The all work, they all cut. Why throw away a
perfectly
> > good tool and spend good money on another because of some anal mentality
> > towards CRAFTSMAN products.
> >
> > Stupid advice like that sucks, IMHO.
> >
> > NOW, ask me how I REALLY feel.
> >
> > :)
> >
> > "Bigpole" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I can't belive no one has said it yet. You throw away the crapsman and
> > > replace it with a PC, DeWalt, Makita or any other DECENT saw.
> > >
> > > [email protected] (c a) wrote in message
> > news:<[email protected]>...
> > > > i have a craftsman 7.25" saw and cant figure out how to remove and
> > > > replace the blade. any help would be appreciated!
> > > >
> > > > thanks.
On 30 Jun 2004 05:45:03 -0700, Jay <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> if you're going to try to do precision work with it, you'll want a saw
>> with better beraings and a better shoe.
>
> Who does precision work with a circular saw? I thought you just rough
> it straight with a guide and then clean it up on the table saw...
*Raises his hand*
I don't have a TS. The one I have access to can only rip to 12"
For large pieces, I have a number of guides I've built out of either
Borg Birch or Baltic Birch plywood.
Almost all my sheet goods work is cut to finished size in one slice with
the circular saw.
All my large panel glueups are cut to finished size with the circular
saw.
On some blades there actually are 2 small holes - specifically for placing a
screwdriver shaft through. Does not hurt the teeth and a lot easier than
using a block of wood. But if you don't have the small ~1/4" holes near the
outer edge of the blade - then use the block of wood.
Bob S.
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> On 28 Jun 2004 00:17:36 -0700, [email protected] (c a) wrote:
>
> >i have a craftsman 7.25" saw and cant figure out how to remove and
> >replace the blade. any help would be appreciated!
> >
> Saw should have it's own nut wrench. if not crescent wrench will do.
> Remember it loosens clockwise.
> You may need to use a screwdriver in the saw teeth to hold the blade if
the saw
> doesn't have a blade lock.
"c a" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> i have a craftsman 7.25" saw and cant figure out how to remove and
> replace the blade. any help would be appreciated!
Whatever direction the blade turns when running, that's the direction you
turn the nut to loosen it. You'll probably need to lock the blade to loosen
the nut. A piece of wood in a gullet or something strong enough to hold the
blade in place will be needed. Try not to damage the teeth on the blade.
Bob - the "advice" still sux. To throw away a perfectly good tool ( which
is what was proposed) JUST because it's a Craftsman is sheer ignorance.
Sorry you've had such a bad time with Craftsman products - in your OPINION
they are crap but there are many others who swear by not at them.
FWIW, I still use a 10"Craftsman Contractor saw circa 1960, A 1/4 in router
circa 1962 and various and sundry drills etc. My bandsaw is Grizzly, I have
PC routers and Hitachi routers, Harbor Freight jointer, Rigid spindle
sander, DeWalt Jigsaw and Some I'm sure I've forgotten. All work well. With
a WWII blade on the TS I get as smooth and square a cut as anything you can
turn out.
Would I buy a Sears router today? Nope - price/quality mix is not good. I'd
rather spend my $$ on something better BUT I object to people who paint
everything with the same brush.
I've read posts that complain how the Sears quality has deteriorated through
the years. In a way I object to that comment. Sears has ALWAYS had mixed
quality products. Low/medium and high - you had to look and shop wisely.
Harbor freight is another that gets a blanket bad mouth from some of the
"pundits" in the Wreck - I say that's stupid. I live fairly near a HF
outlet so I can get in and pick through the stuff. I may look at 10 clamps
before I find a good one BUT the price/quality mix is exceptional. Would I
order by mail? Not generally, their quality is inconsistent enough that I'd
be unsure. BUT I wouldn't say that HF only has junk. THAT'S the type of
"advice" I object to.
Just MHO,
Vic
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Vic,
>
> Glad you're happy with your Craftsman woodworking tools. Over the years,
> I've had a number of Crapsman tools (tablesaw, routers, jointer, drills,
> etc.) and everyone of them either burned out or otherwise self destructed
in
> some fashion. Other than some non-powered hand tools (screwdrivers,
> wrenches) I kept only the jointer (dead motor) around to use as a weight
> when doing large glueups. With that kind of track record, do you really
> think anyone can recommend them?
>
> So the advice doesn't suck at all....
>
> Bob S.
>
>
>
> "Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > What the heck for?? The all work, they all cut. Why throw away a
perfectly
> > good tool and spend good money on another because of some anal mentality
> > towards CRAFTSMAN products.
> >
> > Stupid advice like that sucks, IMHO.
> >
> > NOW, ask me how I REALLY feel.
> >
> > :)
>
>
Vic Baron writes:
>I've read posts that complain how the Sears quality has deteriorated through
>the years. In a way I object to that comment. Sears has ALWAYS had mixed
>quality products. Low/medium and high - you had to look and shop wisely.
Not just true, but something Sears emphasized back when I was a kid lying on
the floor going over the big book. They had categories for most items, Good,
Better, Best.
Seems like a sensible idea for today's world, except that no one today will
admit to getting by with "Good" regardless of brand.
Charlie Self
"It is even harder for the average ape to believe that he has descended from
man."
H. L. Mencken
Gaaawd - I love the smell of a good Craftsman string in the morning!!!
Oh hell - Ill Jump In. I just replaced the brushes in a 35 year old
Craftsman circular saw. I believe this was the first set. On the shelf
next to it is a 32 year old Craftsman Scroll Saw and similar vintage belt
sander. All good tools that seem to last forever, if you install enough
replacement cords and plugs. I have a set of Craftsman hand tools that were
given to me by in-laws nearly 38 years ago and a 1956 vintage Craftsman 4"
Jointer that is built like a fire plug and works fine. I used to go to
Sears anytime I needed a tool. That was 25-35 years ago.
Would I buy a Craftsman tool today - Probably not. Sometime during the past
25 years or so, they turned their backs on their loyal following.
Yes their hand tools are still good, but why pay 2 to 3 times the price of a
Master Mechanic socket set with exactly the same warranty - lifetime!
About 20 to 25 years ago they started selling gaseous features like 1 HP
motors with 2HP starting power - excuse me, but I cut after the saw blade
comes up to speed. Also digital readouts for table saws that didn't even
work on the store floor. In my opinion this kind of marketing was a direct
insult to intelligent customers like us.
Has anyone looked at their new line of lathes or their so-called cabinet
saw? They seem to cost as much as the competition. Are serious woodworkers
buying these stylized plastic laden tools?
I think Sears positioned themselve so serve the consumer who wanted a tool
NOW, didn't have cash available but did have a Sears charge account. That
Worked for a while.
It is particularly telling that Sears is now selling Jet machinery. Wonder
why?
Enough
What the heck for?? The all work, they all cut. Why throw away a perfectly
good tool and spend good money on another because of some anal mentality
towards CRAFTSMAN products.
Stupid advice like that sucks, IMHO.
NOW, ask me how I REALLY feel.
:)
"Bigpole" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I can't belive no one has said it yet. You throw away the crapsman and
> replace it with a PC, DeWalt, Makita or any other DECENT saw.
>
> [email protected] (c a) wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > i have a craftsman 7.25" saw and cant figure out how to remove and
> > replace the blade. any help would be appreciated!
> >
> > thanks.
On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 13:27:55 -0400, J. Clarke <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
> Who "recommended the Craftsman brand"? The comment was made that one should
> throw away a perfecly good Craftsman tool and buy a PC, DeWalt, Makita, or
> any other DECENT saw. Commenting that that is bad advice is not
> "recommending the Craftsman brand", it's simple common sense.
>
I wore out my first Circ . . . Craftsman, mid-'80's vintage. Replaced
it with a PC.
Dad still has his first Craftsman Circ--6-1/2" "Craftsman Commercial"
brushed steel body. I'm likely to inherit it.
He also has his first 9", 1/2HP Contractor saw (1960's--dodgy to setup,
but holds its settings just fine), and his first 10" Craftsman RAS
(3/4HP) from the 1970s (not bad to set up at all, just time consuming).
I've noticed recently that their iffy quality took a decided uptick when
Home Depot got into the game--I'm seeing less of the "Oh Cool Feature .
. made of plastic" and more practical offerings. BiL just got a
Craftsman router . . it ain't my PC, but its motor nameplate is
comparable and it's relatively frill free.
I remember seeing a 12" CMS that was solidly built and well-powered
--nice feature was that the tilt scale was LOUD AND CLEAR, unlike most.
If I hadn't JUST bought a yellow one . . .
eeeeeeekkkk!
Screwdriver?
Lumpa wood?
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> On 28 Jun 2004 00:17:36 -0700, [email protected] (c a) wrote:
>
> >i have a craftsman 7.25" saw and cant figure out how to remove and
> >replace the blade. any help would be appreciated!
> >
> Saw should have it's own nut wrench. if not crescent wrench will do.
> Remember it loosens clockwise.
> You may need to use a screwdriver in the saw teeth to hold the blade if
the saw
> doesn't have a blade lock.
"Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Up until the point that one of them breaks, an equally powered Craftsman,
> Ryobi, Makita, DeWalt, etc circular saw with an equal blade ALL WILL CUT
THE
> SAME. My comment referenced the stupid idea that one should throw out a
> perfectly good tool because it's a lower quality. Can it still cut a 2x4?
> Can it still cut the 2x4 as good as a DeWalt? Yes? Good - then keep the
damn
> thing.
>
Absolutely. In my shop I have a collection of circular saws. I have an old
B&D plastic wonder 7 1/4" that I bought a long time ago. It gets used only
to cut nasty materials like masonry and the bushings scream all the while.
I really should throw it out, but I don't want to use any of my better saws
for this nasty work and so until it quits cutting, it stays in my shop. I
also have a Milwaukee 7 1/4" saw that I like a lot. It's so steady in your
hand, it never jumps when you hit the trigger. It's a bit of a pain to set
the depth, but it's a Milwaukee, so you're really not allowed to complain
about that. I've got a couple of other old timers laying under the work
bench as well, but the one I grab the most now is this really cheap 5 1/2"
B&D that was I brother's and I ended up with it after he was killed. It's
light as a feather, very easy to cut with, jumps more than any saw should
when you hit the trigger, so you quickly learn not to pull the trigger right
at the cut, but is just so doggoned easy to use that I use it most. It's a
junk saw by every definition, and it will break some day, I'm sure, but
until it does, I'll just keep on using it.
Just my little story - but then again, I'm one of those guys with a 30+ year
old Craftsman Model 100 Table saw, and I love the thing. Still can't see
any reason to upgrade it. I put a decent fence system on it, built
extensions, and it's rewarded me by acting like a more expensive saw. On
the other hand, I'm also one of those guys that ditched a Craftsman 1/4"
router and bought a DeWalt 618B.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Bob wrote:
> Vic,
>
> Glad you're happy with your Craftsman woodworking tools. Over the years,
> I've had a number of Crapsman tools (tablesaw, routers, jointer, drills,
> etc.) and everyone of them either burned out or otherwise self destructed
> in
> some fashion. Other than some non-powered hand tools (screwdrivers,
> wrenches) I kept only the jointer (dead motor) around to use as a weight
> when doing large glueups. With that kind of track record, do you really
> think anyone can recommend them?
>
> So the advice doesn't suck at all....
Well, let's see, according to you his saw is going to burn out real soon.
So why shouldn't he wait until that happens to toss it and get a new one
instead of tossing it and getting a new one right now?
> Bob S.
>
>
>
> "Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> What the heck for?? The all work, they all cut. Why throw away a
>> perfectly good tool and spend good money on another because of some anal
>> mentality towards CRAFTSMAN products.
>>
>> Stupid advice like that sucks, IMHO.
>>
>> NOW, ask me how I REALLY feel.
>>
>> :)
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Bigpole wrote:
> I suppose you still would use a stone axe because it hasn't broken yet.
Well, if the only thing I had to replace it with was another stone axe made
by a different knapper then yeah, I'd stick with the one I had until I
needed a new one.
You're not talking about replacing an existing tool with a new tool that has
increased functionality, you're talking about replacing an existing tool
with one that has the same functionality solely because you hold personal
animosity toward the maker.
> "Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
>> What the heck for?? The all work, they all cut. Why throw away a
>> perfectly good tool and spend good money on another because of some anal
>> mentality towards CRAFTSMAN products.
>>
>> Stupid advice like that sucks, IMHO.
>>
>> NOW, ask me how I REALLY feel.
>>
>> :)
>>
>> "Bigpole" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > I can't belive no one has said it yet. You throw away the crapsman and
>> > replace it with a PC, DeWalt, Makita or any other DECENT saw.
>> >
>> > [email protected] (c a) wrote in message
>> news:<[email protected]>...
>> > > i have a craftsman 7.25" saw and cant figure out how to remove and
>> > > replace the blade. any help would be appreciated!
>> > >
>> > > thanks.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Bob wrote:
> I don't see where you can come up with that conclusion in my post. And no
> one said anything about tossing anything.
What part of "I can't belive no one has said it yet. You throw away the
crapsman and replace it with a PC, DeWalt, Makita or any other DECENT saw."
<http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=lang_en&ie=UTF-8&safe=off&selm=85e846d8.0406280823.638ea1f3
40posting.google.com> did you not understand?
> Why don't you read and understand before making a comment that makes no
> sense at all unless you're a troll.
Why don't you read the whole thread before you disagree with somebody and
find out what _he_'s responding to?
> If you like the Craftsman brand of
> tools - go buy them. I simply told of my experience and I certainly can't
> recommend the Craftsman brand. Others in the group agree and others, like
> yourself don't - that's why Sears is still selling crap tools.
Who "recommended the Craftsman brand"? The comment was made that one should
throw away a perfecly good Craftsman tool and buy a PC, DeWalt, Makita, or
any other DECENT saw. Commenting that that is bad advice is not
"recommending the Craftsman brand", it's simple common sense.
Your "
> Bob S.
>
>
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Well, let's see, according to you his saw is going to burn out real soon.
>> So why shouldn't he wait until that happens to toss it and get a new one
>> instead of tossing it and getting a new one right now?
>>
>> > Bob S.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:[email protected]...
>> >> What the heck for?? The all work, they all cut. Why throw away a
>> >> perfectly good tool and spend good money on another because of some
> anal
>> >> mentality towards CRAFTSMAN products.
>> >>
>> >> Stupid advice like that sucks, IMHO.
>> >>
>> >> NOW, ask me how I REALLY feel.
>> >>
>> >> :)
>>
>> --
>> --John
>> Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
>> (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
"Jay" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > if all you're going to do is cut the odd 2x4, sure.
> >
> > if you're going to try to do precision work with it, you'll want a saw
> > with better beraings and a better shoe.
>
> Who does precision work with a circular saw? I thought you just rough
> it straight with a guide and then clean it up on the table saw...
It's not just a case of "precision" work! I've got both an older Crapsman 7"
and a newer PC 7 1/4" LH blade. The Crapsman gets used ONLY with a guide,
the PC both free-hand and with it's own guide. Until you've experienced the
difference the better saw and BASE can make, you find it hard to believe.
The PC just seems to *glide* along the cut, and you have to *push* the
Crapsman on its stamped steel base. Yes, I've tried cleaning, smoothing,
waxing, you name it, still can't come close to the way the PC works.
--
Nahmie
The first myth of management is that management exists.
---
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Norman D. Crow wrote:
>
>
>
> "Jay" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> [email protected] wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
>> > if all you're going to do is cut the odd 2x4, sure.
>> >
>> > if you're going to try to do precision work with it, you'll want a saw
>> > with better beraings and a better shoe.
>>
>> Who does precision work with a circular saw? I thought you just rough
>> it straight with a guide and then clean it up on the table saw...
>
> It's not just a case of "precision" work! I've got both an older Crapsman
> 7" and a newer PC 7 1/4" LH blade. The Crapsman gets used ONLY with a
> guide, the PC both free-hand and with it's own guide. Until you've
> experienced the difference the better saw and BASE can make, you find it
> hard to believe. The PC just seems to *glide* along the cut, and you have
> to *push* the Crapsman on its stamped steel base. Yes, I've tried
> cleaning, smoothing, waxing, you name it, still can't come close to the
> way the PC works.
FWIW, my Dad had a Craftsman, I have worm-drive Skil. In practical terms I
can't see any real difference between them except that my great
grandchildren if I ever have any and if they are interested in such
matters, will likely still be using the Skil.
What's special about the PC base?
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Norman D. Crow wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > "Jay" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> [email protected] wrote in message
> > news:<[email protected]>...
> FWIW, my Dad had a Craftsman, I have worm-drive Skil. In practical terms
I
> can't see any real difference between them except that my great
> grandchildren if I ever have any and if they are interested in such
> matters, will likely still be using the Skil.
>
> What's special about the PC base?
Not absolutely sure right this moment. This is the 743/843, now
discontinued, replaced by their "MAG" series. I *think* the base is
magnesium, ribbed, and powder-coated. I know that it slides along very
nicely, and cuts beautifully, and has PLENTY of power. DAMHIKT!(kicked back
on me when cutting free-hand once. My fault, board slipped off support.)
--
Nahmie
The first myth of management is that management exists.
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.712 / Virus Database: 468 - Release Date: 6/27/2004
Norman D. Crow wrote:
>
>
>
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Norman D. Crow wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "Jay" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:[email protected]...
>> >> [email protected] wrote in message
>> > news:<[email protected]>...
>> FWIW, my Dad had a Craftsman, I have worm-drive Skil. In practical terms
> I
>> can't see any real difference between them except that my great
>> grandchildren if I ever have any and if they are interested in such
>> matters, will likely still be using the Skil.
>>
>> What's special about the PC base?
>
> Not absolutely sure right this moment. This is the 743/843, now
> discontinued, replaced by their "MAG" series. I *think* the base is
> magnesium, ribbed, and powder-coated.
I can see where the ribbing and possibly the powder-coating would help.
FWIW, a piece of wide UHMW tape stuck on the shoe should smooth up the
movement of any saw, the problem is that a 4" wide roll of the stuff costs
more than the Porter Cable saw. I've got a big box of engineering samples
of that kind of stuff that I collected over the years--sometimes I don't
quite realize what I'm using until I use some of it up and go to replace it
<grin>.
> I know that it slides along very
> nicely, and cuts beautifully, and has PLENTY of power. DAMHIKT!(kicked
> back on me when cutting free-hand once. My fault, board slipped off
> support.)
>
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Mon, 28 Jun 2004 13:00:44 GMT, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> On 28 Jun 2004 00:17:36 -0700, [email protected] (c a) wrote:
>
>
>> Remember it loosens clockwise.
>
>Wrong. Loosen the nut or bolt in the direction that the blade turns.
>
That's what happens when you are half asleep and you're lefthanded.<g>
I also recommended the screwdriver because if there are times, especially if you
bought an old second hand job, that wood just won't hold and you can hurt
yourself.
I once had to drill a hole in a rusty plywood blade to get it off, even after 3
days of applying assorted rust lifters like WD40.
On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 20:17:41 GMT, "Vic Baron" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Well, Bighole - If I needed a stone axe I would still use it if I had one.
>
>Your point?
>
>Up until the point that one of them breaks, an equally powered Craftsman,
>Ryobi, Makita, DeWalt, etc circular saw with an equal blade ALL WILL CUT THE
>SAME. My comment referenced the stupid idea that one should throw out a
>perfectly good tool because it's a lower quality. Can it still cut a 2x4?
>Can it still cut the 2x4 as good as a DeWalt? Yes? Good - then keep the damn
>thing.
>
>Vic
if all you're going to do is cut the odd 2x4, sure.
if you're going to try to do precision work with it, you'll want a saw
with better beraings and a better shoe.
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> >
> That's what happens when you are half asleep and you're lefthanded.<g>
Yeah.. ;~) that is what I kept telling my 2 year old son. If you use your
right hand it will all make sense. He still uses his left hand 15 years
later.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>On 28 Jun 2004 00:17:36 -0700, [email protected] (c a) wrote:
>
>>i have a craftsman 7.25" saw and cant figure out how to remove and
>>replace the blade. any help would be appreciated!
>>
Saw should have it's own nut wrench. if not crescent wrench will do.
A box-end wrench or a socket would be a better choice, as they grip the bolt
tighter than a crescent wrench will, and thus have less risk of slipping and
banging your knuckles, or rounding off the bolt head.
>Remember it loosens clockwise.
Ummmm... no, it doesn't, not if the blade is on the right, anyway.
>You may need to use a screwdriver in the saw teeth to hold the blade if the saw
>doesn't have a blade lock.
That's really a pretty bad idea. A block of scrap wood is far better.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (Bigpole) wrote:
>I suppose you still would use a stone axe because it hasn't broken yet.
>
It all comes down to using the right tool for the job. I wouldn't use a stone
axe for making a piano; OTOH, if your objective is to make a hand-hewn beam or
a split-rail fence, and you have a perfectly workable stone axe, you might as
well use it.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
On 28 Jun 2004 00:17:36 -0700, [email protected] (c a) wrote:
>i have a craftsman 7.25" saw and cant figure out how to remove and
>replace the blade. any help would be appreciated!
>
Saw should have it's own nut wrench. if not crescent wrench will do.
Remember it loosens clockwise.
You may need to use a screwdriver in the saw teeth to hold the blade if the saw
doesn't have a blade lock.
On 28 Jun 2004 00:17:36 -0700, [email protected] (c a) vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
You are either a twit or a medium-good TROLL.
reply with thanks to the nice gentlemen who have helped, ya'all.
>i have a craftsman 7.25" saw and cant figure out how to remove and
>replace the blade. any help would be appreciated!
>
>thanks.
Vic,
Glad you're happy with your Craftsman woodworking tools. Over the years,
I've had a number of Crapsman tools (tablesaw, routers, jointer, drills,
etc.) and everyone of them either burned out or otherwise self destructed in
some fashion. Other than some non-powered hand tools (screwdrivers,
wrenches) I kept only the jointer (dead motor) around to use as a weight
when doing large glueups. With that kind of track record, do you really
think anyone can recommend them?
So the advice doesn't suck at all....
Bob S.
"Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What the heck for?? The all work, they all cut. Why throw away a perfectly
> good tool and spend good money on another because of some anal mentality
> towards CRAFTSMAN products.
>
> Stupid advice like that sucks, IMHO.
>
> NOW, ask me how I REALLY feel.
>
> :)
On 29 Jun 2004 00:34:30 GMT, [email protected] (Greg) wrote:
>I have a Craftsman circular saw and as soon as it breaks I will promise to buy
>something you folks approve of but I can't seem to break it. Last week I burned
>up 3 masonry blades trying but no joy, it keeps on going. :-)
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS USA
On 29 Jun 2004 00:34:30 GMT, [email protected] (Greg) wrote:
>I have a Craftsman circular saw and as soon as it breaks I will promise to buy
>something you folks approve of but I can't seem to break it. Last week I burned
>up 3 masonry blades trying but no joy, it keeps on going. :-)
Greg,
Me too. I keep wanting to get a GOOD circular saw, but my innate stinginess won't let me spend the money as long as my Craftsman 7
1/4 keeps spinning the blade. Only thing I've had to fix on it was to replace the cord when I ran the blade through it several years
ago. You'd think after almost 40 years it would be about worn out, but nooo... Don'tlook like I'm ever gonna be able to buy a good
saw.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS USA
Greg wrote:
>> You'd think after almost 40 years it would be about worn
>> out, but nooo... Don'tlook like I'm ever gonna be able to
>> buy a good saw.
>
> I think the problem is these folks are buying new Sears tools,
> not the ones they made in the Johnson administration. BTW the
> cord on mine is just a lot shorter than it was, with a
> replacement plug ;-)
I think you might be right. The power tools I bought from Sears
in the early 70's are still holding up fairly well. My old Sears
cast iron shaper has a lot of miles on it - but still runs like
new - ditto for the old 12" BS.
In the mid-seventies I quit buying Sears stuff because I couldn't
find anything I needed in anything better than lightweight
aluminum castings and formed 18 ga sheet steel. I wasn't hung up
on price; I just wanted something that'd do the job and hold
together. Sears just didn't have the quality I wanted - so I made
the big switch to commercial grade tools /in spite of/ the damage
to my wallet.
A fair proportion of the other woodworkers I knew made that same
decision at (about) the same time. I still buy wrenches and
sockets from Sears, but that's about all.
I think they made their decision to "cheap-out" because some star
MBA convinced management that they could capture more market
share by using their good tool reputation to provide some kind of
sales inertia while they peddled cheapened product with a higher
profit margin. It probably /did/ provide the desired result
briefly - until their customers wised up wised up, decided that
Sears wasn't entitled to continuing loyalty, and moved on to
other tool sources.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
>You'd think after almost 40 years it would be about worn out, but nooo...
>Don'tlook like I'm ever gonna be able to buy a good
>saw.
>
I think the problem is these folks are buying new Sears tools, not the ones
they made in the Johnson administration.
BTW the cord on mine is just a lot shorter than it was, with a replacement plug
;-)
"Greg" writes:
> I think the problem is these folks are buying new Sears tools, not the
ones
> they made in the Johnson administration.
Way back when, Sears & Rubbish had some pretty good stuff.
Too bad, they let the "bean counters" ruin the company and the products they
sell.
Today, I wouldn't even bother walking into one of their stores.
It is truly a shame how the company has been destroyed, IMHO.
Lew
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> If you supply a quality product at a fair price, you will survive and
> flourish.
Agreed on that, Lee Valley Tools is an example of that. But, it's a very
difficult thing to do when the first instinct for most people is the cost.
Quality while important to some, maybe even many, is always the second
consideration.
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> If you supply a quality product at a fair price, you will survive and
> flourish.
>
> We sell quality products at a fair price. We have a lot of competitors who
> sell their products for a lot less.
>
> 18 years later, we are still in business, many of our competitors are not.
>
> Lew
>
A major problem with so many corporations is that they forget who their
customers are. Consumers should be the customers but stockholders
replace them. GM, for example, has never gotten the idea (Saturn being
the exception), Chrysler never understood what was at stake, Ford had it
right in the 90s and has now gone back to maximizing short term profit.
mahalo,
jo4hn
"Greg" writes:
> We can't blame anyone but ourselves. If we did not demand the absolute
lowest
> price for everything we buy, quality and service would not be a distant
memory.
IMHO, there is a little bit more to it.
Before Lee Iocca showed up, Lynn Townsend, a bean counter was well on his
way to destroying Chrysler
Roger Smith, another bean counter, IMHO, did a great job of wasting a lot of
General Mptors resources before he was replaced.
Recognizing your goal and accomplishing it is of utmost importance, IMHO,
something "bean counters" don't seem to grasp.
> As long as Sears is competing with Harbor Fright the quality is bound to
> suffer.
I disagree.
If you supply a quality product at a fair price, you will survive and
flourish.
We sell quality products at a fair price. We have a lot of competitors who
sell their products for a lot less.
18 years later, we are still in business, many of our competitors are not.
Lew
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > If you supply a quality product at a fair price, you will survive and
> > flourish.
>
> Agreed on that, Lee Valley Tools is an example of that. But, it's a very
> difficult thing to do when the first instinct for most people is the cost.
> Quality while important to some, maybe even many, is always the second
> consideration.
Agreed, but i am inclined to suppose there is a big difference in
sales volume between Lee Valley and Sears.
--
FF