About 30 years ago I purchased a Hitachi compound sliding miter saw.
The blade that came with the saw would not cut a 22.5 degree perfectly
and I when I talked to the company about it they suggested I change
the blade to another style. I did and it worked.
I can't remember the style but I think it was designated as a ATB type
or something like that.
Anybody have a clue as to what type blade I need for a replacement?
Sorry to be so vague but I think a little mad-cow has kicked in. Or
maybe part-timers.
On Fri, 29 Dec 2017 17:32:26 -0600, swalker <[email protected]> wrote:
>About 30 years ago I purchased a Hitachi compound sliding miter saw.
>
>The blade that came with the saw would not cut a 22.5 degree perfectly
>and I when I talked to the company about it they suggested I change
>the blade to another style. I did and it worked.
>
>I can't remember the style but I think it was designated as a ATB type
>or something like that.
>
>Anybody have a clue as to what type blade I need for a replacement?
>
>Sorry to be so vague but I think a little mad-cow has kicked in. Or
>maybe part-timers.
Thanks for the ad vice.
It might not have been quite 30 years but it will be close.
This is an 8 inch saw which I think was the biggest slider Hitachi
made at the time. An excellent saw which I have been very careful
with. I should have had the blade sharpened sooner but no one around
me does sharpening. Woodcraft has a guy that does it and I will make
the 50 mile drive to them. I will also buy a new blade from somewhere.
Have had good luck with Freud for my table saw.
Makes me wish for the days when I lived east of San Francisco and
there was an local oriental guy who would sharpen blades for $3 and
for a dollar more would balance them and then true them within .003"
side to side.
I moved to AL in '76 and inquired about having a blade balanced and
trued they looked at me as if I had lost my mind. Said they never
heard of such.
Happy New Year to all.
On 12/29/2017 5:32 PM, swalker wrote:
> About 30 years ago I purchased a Hitachi compound sliding miter saw.
I had no idea sliders were around that long ago. ;~)
>
> The blade that came with the saw would not cut a 22.5 degree perfectly
> and I when I talked to the company about it they suggested I change
> the blade to another style. I did and it worked.
>
> I can't remember the style but I think it was designated as a ATB type
> or something like that.
>
> Anybody have a clue as to what type blade I need for a replacement?
>
> Sorry to be so vague but I think a little mad-cow has kicked in. Or
> maybe part-timers.
>
ATBR Alternating right and left bevel and a flat raker
https://www.forrestblades.com/chopmaster/
On 12/29/2017 6:32 PM, swalker wrote:
> About 30 years ago I purchased a Hitachi compound sliding miter saw.
>
> The blade that came with the saw would not cut a 22.5 degree perfectly
> and I when I talked to the company about it they suggested I change
> the blade to another style. I did and it worked.
>
> I can't remember the style but I think it was designated as a ATB type
> or something like that.
>
> Anybody have a clue as to what type blade I need for a replacement?
>
> Sorry to be so vague but I think a little mad-cow has kicked in. Or
> maybe part-timers.
>
12" saw? I use a 12" Forrest Chopmaster in my Dewalt saw and I've never
regretted the choke-inducing $165 cost. Well maybe just a little...
Seriously, it produces what could be called a polished cut and shows no
tendency to wander. It is an 80-tooth ATB.
On Sat, 30 Dec 2017 11:04:48 -0500, John McGaw <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 12/29/2017 6:32 PM, swalker wrote:
>> About 30 years ago I purchased a Hitachi compound sliding miter saw.
>>
>> The blade that came with the saw would not cut a 22.5 degree perfectly
>> and I when I talked to the company about it they suggested I change
>> the blade to another style. I did and it worked.
>>
>> I can't remember the style but I think it was designated as a ATB type
>> or something like that.
>>
>> Anybody have a clue as to what type blade I need for a replacement?
>>
>> Sorry to be so vague but I think a little mad-cow has kicked in. Or
>> maybe part-timers.
>>
>
>12" saw? I use a 12" Forrest Chopmaster in my Dewalt saw and I've never
>regretted the choke-inducing $165 cost. Well maybe just a little...
"You only cry once."
>Seriously, it produces what could be called a polished cut and shows no
>tendency to wander. It is an 80-tooth ATB.
On Sun, 31 Dec 2017 16:44:07 -0600, swalker <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 29 Dec 2017 17:32:26 -0600, swalker <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>About 30 years ago I purchased a Hitachi compound sliding miter saw.
>>
>>The blade that came with the saw would not cut a 22.5 degree perfectly
>>and I when I talked to the company about it they suggested I change
>>the blade to another style. I did and it worked.
>>
>>I can't remember the style but I think it was designated as a ATB type
>>or something like that.
>>
>>Anybody have a clue as to what type blade I need for a replacement?
>>
>>Sorry to be so vague but I think a little mad-cow has kicked in. Or
>>maybe part-timers.
>
>Thanks for the ad vice.
>
>It might not have been quite 30 years but it will be close.
>
>This is an 8 inch saw which I think was the biggest slider Hitachi
>made at the time. An excellent saw which I have been very careful
>with. I should have had the blade sharpened sooner but no one around
>me does sharpening. Woodcraft has a guy that does it and I will make
>the 50 mile drive to them. I will also buy a new blade from somewhere.
>Have had good luck with Freud for my table saw.
Hitachi was the go-to slider for many years. It's small, by today's
standards, but a nice piece of hardware. Forrest will sharpen blades.
I believe Ridge will, as well. Either of these would bring the blade
back to new.
>
>Makes me wish for the days when I lived east of San Francisco and
>there was an local oriental guy who would sharpen blades for $3 and
>for a dollar more would balance them and then true them within .003"
>side to side.
Check Forrest and Ridge Carbide. There are a number of other places
advertised on the web who will do it, as well. I'd spring for Forrest
or Ridge, though.
>I moved to AL in '76 and inquired about having a blade balanced and
>trued they looked at me as if I had lost my mind. Said they never
>heard of such.
Where in AL? There is a Woodcraft in Birmingham. I lived in the
Auburn area for three years. Either Birmingham or Atlanta were in an
easy day-trip's range.
>
>Happy New Year to all.
To you and yours, too!
On Fri, 29 Dec 2017 17:32:26 -0600
swalker <[email protected]> wrote:
> Anybody have a clue as to what type blade I need for a replacement?
seems to me that binding would make a blade not do well at that angle
but maybe it is a combination of blade material and tooth design and
lack of stress relief that contributes
my recent experiences with freud blades points to the stress relief
on the blade face that allows the blade to cut so smoothly and with
less effort
always thought that blade thickness was the key to less warping and
binding but the freud blades are thin that i have used
On Fri, 29 Dec 2017 17:32:26 -0600, swalker <[email protected]> wrote:
>About 30 years ago I purchased a Hitachi compound sliding miter saw.
>
>The blade that came with the saw would not cut a 22.5 degree perfectly
>and I when I talked to the company about it they suggested I change
>the blade to another style. I did and it worked.
>
>I can't remember the style but I think it was designated as a ATB type
>or something like that.
>
>Anybody have a clue as to what type blade I need for a replacement?
>
>Sorry to be so vague but I think a little mad-cow has kicked in. Or
>maybe part-timers.
Replace it with another ATB (Alternate Top Bevel)? Most blades are
ATB. Since the idea is to cut the wood completely, it doesn't matter
what the cut looks like. An ATB blade has a bevel on the even teeth
and an opposite bevel on the odd teeth.
OTOH, if you're not cutting the wood all the way through (a dado or
plough), the shape of the bottom of the cut matters, so a flat grind
is used.