Joe Bemier wrote:
> On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 07:25:40 GMT, "Rudy" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >SHMBO wishes me to make a counter then tile over it. Now the question is
> >should I use ply or mdf for the base material of the top.
> >
> >I just built our laundry room cabinets. I used 2 layers of 3/4" ply for the
> >tops (glued and screwed together-thats the way the tile "pro" did our
> >bathrooms) and had some 1/4" tile backerboard to put on top. She said
> >"nevermind" to the backerboard and tiled today, right onto the ply.
> >If I wasn't busy with several other projects, I'd have gone with the
> >backerboard too.
> >
> I see a lot of tile guys do their work and it seems they are not too
> concerned with the base itself as long as it is strong but they always
> use backerboard as the poster above suggests
The substrate should be minimum of 1 and 1/4 inches thick. Two layers
of plywood glued and screwed or one layer of ply plus a layer of
backerboard screwed and glued to the ply with thinset. Backerboard is
the better way.
Puff Griffis wrote:
> SHMBO wishes me to make a counter then tile over it. Now the question is should I use ply or mdf for the base material of the top. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> Puff
It's that Mackinac sailboat race again this weekend...so I'm a bit
short of time/breath to get on my soap-box and tell all about tiled
countertops.
I'll give you the short version: It is a bad idea. Grout=germs.
Grout=ugly.
BTW.. that race was won by a good friend of mine 4 times over the last
20 years.
Last year Bob Seger (yes..THAT Bob Seger) won with Lighning.
This year we have a couple of serious speedsters here....America
Cup-grade stuff.
Good thing for Classes.
When I survive Boat Night in Port Huron.. I will continue my tirade
against tiled countertops....for now.. Off to the park where Keith
Urban (First concert after getting married) is going to play toninght.
http://www.sarniabayfest.com/
I love my little town.
r
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
>
> > It's that Mackinac sailboat race again this weekend...so I'm a bit
> > short of time/breath to get on my soap-box and tell all about tiled
> > countertops.
>
> Are you in the race?
>
> Lew
I am not. Many around me are involved one way or another.
I know you were around here some time back, Lew, so maybe you knew the
Abbott brothers. Their entire operation burnt down... plugs, patterns,
molds....carnage and devastation.
I was THIS close to ordering a Volksboot from them. Now I'll have to
settle for an antique.
Locutus wrote:
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > How do you properly seam a germ?
> >
> > "Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >> Properly sealed germs
> >> shouldn't be a problem.
> >>
>
> In an air tight container.
I bought a FoodSaver vacuum-pack system just for that purpose.
I am now an avid germ collector. I have 3 already.
r
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Puff Griffis wrote:
>
>> SHMBO wishes me to make a counter then tile over it. Now the question is
>> should I use ply or mdf for the base material of the top. Any
>> suggestions
>> would be appreciated.
>
> If this is a kitchen counter avoid MDF. If you've ever seen what happens
> to
> it when it gets wet you'll know why. Sure, it _should_ stay dry but what
> should be and what is in the real world are seldom the same.
>
>> Puff
>
Exterior grade ply is your best bet.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> NO!. It is typically water proof board used instead of sheet rock in
>> water
>> prone splash areas such as tub surrounds.
>
> Sounds like what I'd cement board.
> http://www.unifixinc.com/products/permabase.htm
>
You can use that or Hardibacker. The Hardibacker (made by the same company
who makes Hardiplank siding) is easier to work with, ligher, and cleaner to
cut. The last time I priced them at HD, they were the exact same price.
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How do you properly seam a germ?
>
> "Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Properly sealed germs
>> shouldn't be a problem.
>>
In an air tight container.
"SteveC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> backerboard screwed and glued to the ply with thinset. Backerboard is
> the better way.
Just for information's sake, what is backerboard? Is it what I call hard
board, the brown stuff that's used for pegboard except without the holes in
it?
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Puff Griffis wrote:
>> SHMBO wishes me to make a counter then tile over it. Now the question is
>> should I use ply or mdf for the base material of the top. Any suggestions
>> would be appreciated.
>> Puff
>
> It's that Mackinac sailboat race again this weekend...so I'm a bit
> short of time/breath to get on my soap-box and tell all about tiled
> countertops.
> I'll give you the short version: It is a bad idea. Grout=germs.
> Grout=ugly.
>
If you don't like the grout on your countertop you can butt the tiles
together, then only a small amount of grout is used to fill the seams, this
method looks particularly attractive with marble tile. Properly sealed germs
shouldn't be a problem.
"Mike_in_SD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> its been a year since I did my counter, and that piece is still there
> and I still can't pry the tile off.
Tell the truth Mike. The mud you used was excess stock from what they use on
the space shuttle to glue down the foam heat shield.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> NO!. It is typically water proof board used instead of sheet rock in water
> prone splash areas such as tub surrounds.
Sounds like what I'd cement board.
http://www.unifixinc.com/products/permabase.htm
[email protected] (SteveC) wrote in <1152793607.813445.322660
>The substrate should be minimum of 1 and 1/4 inches thick. Two layers
>of plywood glued and screwed or one layer of ply plus a layer of
>backerboard screwed and glued to the ply with thinset. Backerboard is
>the better way.
>
I used two thick pieces of exterior ply .. with NO backer board.
I did this experiment ..
I took a piece of my plywood (2'X 2') and did some tiling in the middle
so all the edges of the tile and mud were exposed.
then I set it in the backyard leaning against the fence. Then everyday for
a few weeks I watered it down.
its been a year since I did my counter, and that piece is still there
and I still cant pry the tile off.
so I am not worried about a glass of water being spilled on my counter
so ... I am not saying .. "DONT use the backer board .. "
I am just saying .. that most guys that say you MUST use it are saying
that because of being taught that way .. not from experience
mike
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> I am now an avid germ collector. I have 3 already.
>
Just three germs?
You are not much of a collector, are you?
SHMBO wishes me to make a counter then tile over it. Now the question is
should I use ply or mdf for the base material of the top.
I just built our laundry room cabinets. I used 2 layers of 3/4" ply for the
tops (glued and screwed together-thats the way the tile "pro" did our
bathrooms) and had some 1/4" tile backerboard to put on top. She said
"nevermind" to the backerboard and tiled today, right onto the ply.
If I wasn't busy with several other projects, I'd have gone with the
backerboard too.
Puff Griffis wrote:
> SHMBO wishes me to make a counter then tile over it. Now the question is
> should I use ply or mdf for the base material of the top. Any suggestions
> would be appreciated.
If this is a kitchen counter avoid MDF. If you've ever seen what happens to
it when it gets wet you'll know why. Sure, it _should_ stay dry but what
should be and what is in the real world are seldom the same.
> Puff
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On 13 Jul 2006 15:51:12 -0700, "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Puff Griffis wrote:
>> SHMBO wishes me to make a counter then tile over it. Now the question is should I use ply or mdf for the base material of the top. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>> Puff
>
>It's that Mackinac sailboat race again this weekend...so I'm a bit
>short of time/breath to get on my soap-box and tell all about tiled
>countertops.
>I'll give you the short version: It is a bad idea. Grout=germs.
>Grout=ugly.
>
>BTW.. that race was won by a good friend of mine 4 times over the last
>20 years.
>Last year Bob Seger (yes..THAT Bob Seger) won with Lighning.
>This year we have a couple of serious speedsters here....America
>Cup-grade stuff.
>Good thing for Classes.
>
>When I survive Boat Night in Port Huron.. I will continue my tirade
>against tiled countertops....for now.. Off to the park where Keith
>Urban (First concert after getting married) is going to play toninght.
>http://www.sarniabayfest.com/
>
>I love my little town.
>
>r
Bob Seger...a true musician
It all sounds like a lot of fun - Best wishes for nice weather.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "SteveC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> backerboard screwed and glued to the ply with thinset. Backerboard is
>> the better way.
>
> Just for information's sake, what is backerboard? Is it what I call hard
> board, the brown stuff that's used for pegboard except without the holes
> in
> it?
NO!. It is typically water proof board used instead of sheet rock in water
prone splash areas such as tub surrounds.
How do you properly seam a germ?
"Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Properly sealed germs
> shouldn't be a problem.
>
On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 07:25:40 GMT, "Rudy" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>SHMBO wishes me to make a counter then tile over it. Now the question is
>should I use ply or mdf for the base material of the top.
>
>I just built our laundry room cabinets. I used 2 layers of 3/4" ply for the
>tops (glued and screwed together-thats the way the tile "pro" did our
>bathrooms) and had some 1/4" tile backerboard to put on top. She said
>"nevermind" to the backerboard and tiled today, right onto the ply.
>If I wasn't busy with several other projects, I'd have gone with the
>backerboard too.
>
I see a lot of tile guys do their work and it seems they are not too
concerned with the base itself as long as it is strong but they always
use backerboard as the poster above suggests
On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 08:44:26 -0400, "Upscale" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"SteveC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> backerboard screwed and glued to the ply with thinset. Backerboard is
>> the better way.
>
>Just for information's sake, what is backerboard? Is it what I call hard
>board, the brown stuff that's used for pegboard except without the holes in
>it?
>
This is the grey cement board Durock or similar. It keeps the
plywood/mdf from bubbling up if you get a crack in the grout.
BTW the biggest problem with this method is the stems of faucets are
usually 2 - 2.5" long so you run out of stem before you can get the
lock nut and water connection on.
Be sure you cut out a hole on the plywwod where the faucet goes so you
will have a countersink hole. You can get carburundum hole saws to cut
the holes in the tile and durock.