Steven G. Kargl wrote:
> Anyone have a pointer to descriptions for laying out
> and cutting dovetails by hand?
>
> --
> Steve
> http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/
I found the saddles that lee valley sold were invaluable to me when I
first tried dovetails by hand.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=49424&cat=1,42936,50298
As well, I picked up their cheapest dovetail saw, a Japanese thing, for
about $CDN 30 and the combination of those two items plus reading up in
a few books and online gave me more than enough confidence to try them
by hand.
I started out doing a bunch of joints on scrap wood before I tried them
in real and went through quite a few before I felt I was ready.
I"m really not very good at most of this stuff but I've made dovetails
that I'm satisfied with. I figure if I can do that, just about anyone
with patience can as well.
Tanus
"Steven G. Kargl" <[email protected]> wrote
> Anyone have a pointer to descriptions for laying out
> and cutting dovetails by hand?
Try my web site - Dovetailing Detailed.
Best of luck!
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net
I wrote:> Here's a little calculator to size and space them. Found it
in the
>> archives. http://www.blocklayer.com/Woodjoints/DovetailEng.aspx Tom
Then AAvK wrote:
>Seems the owner of the site already gave that link, Blocklayer.
Yep, my bad. But do you see what the archives
can do (if you're not paying attention)? Tom
Steven G. Kargl wrote:
>
> Anyone have a pointer to descriptions for laying out
> and cutting dovetails by hand?
>
> --
> Steve
> http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/
Alan Foust's Compendium of Dovetail Links
http://home.nj.rr.com/afoust/dovetails.html
If a link to it isn't on his site I'm betting you'll
never find it either - even with Google, Alltheweb,
dogpile and the rest.
charlie b
the guy who put together the stuff at
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/DovetailDrawer0.html
AAvK wrote:
>
> Nnnnnaaaaaaawwww come on. That is soft extruded aluminum, only good for
> use with a pencil. Check out the Woodjoy markers, hardened steel which is good
> with marking a knife that has bevel(s) on one side. It's what I'll get when I start.
>
> http://www.woodjoytools.com/
The problem with most of the dovetail marking gauges is that they're
opaque.
Why is that a problem?
Well, for dovetails to look really nice, there has to be almost perfect
symetry
or they don't look right. The fit may be perfect - but if their spacing
is off,
and they don't have to be off by much - your eye will catch it and your
brain
will register that something's not right.
+-+----+----+-+ Case 1 - Symetric
+--+--+-----+-+ Case 2 - Asymetric (not symetric at all)
The easiest way to get symetry is to start out marking the Centers of
the
PINS or TAILS (depending on if your a PINS First or TAILS First person).
It's much easier to work out spacing between centerlines of PINS or
TAILS
than it is between left side of one/right side of another PIN or TAIL.
Find the center of the board and mark the end you'll be cutting. Do some
light pencil lines for ABOUT where you want the centers of the remaining
PINS or TAILS. Rember - you're going to start and end with a Half PIN.
When things look about right, use a combi-square, double end square
or marking gauge to get the same distance in from the sides of the board
to your centerline for each pair of PINS or TAILS.
Now we come to the shortcoming of opaque dovetail marking gauges -
THEY'RE OPAQUE. That means that you CAN"T SEE your centerline
OR any line behind it that you've already marked.
Ideally, a dovetail marking gauge should
1. be transparent so you can see what's behind/under it
2. let you mark the end grain and one side grain face at
each set up location (ie - like a saddle square)
3. have an alignment line or lines, a specific distance
from the edge to be marked/scribed, which can be
aligned to your centerline layout line (reread that
and if it isn't clear yet it should be after you look at
the dovetail marking gauge here
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/DovetailDrawer17A.html
This polycarb marking gauge gives you EIGHT, count 'em
eight, PIN or TAIL width options. The lines scribed into
the polycarb are on both the sides of the polycarb to minimize
parallax. Set a scribe line over your centerline and mark
your stock at the outer edge of the gauge. Mark BOTH the
top and one face - at the same time.
Have a look.
charlie b
> Why not simply use a good bevel gauge, and either eyeball the angle or
> make a cardboard or scrap wood setting template?
>
> Barry
Actually now I have been sawing and chopping the slanted dog holes in the
apron for my work bench, setting the bevel with the protractor to 88º and it
has been working great! I make the cut mark with it and when done with the
whole slot, I check the side walls with it, it's doing great!
--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
AAvK wrote:
>>Why not simply use a good bevel gauge, and either eyeball the angle or
>>make a cardboard or scrap wood setting template?
> Actually now I have been sawing and chopping the slanted dog holes in the
> apron for my work bench, setting the bevel with the protractor to 88º and it
> has been working great! I make the cut mark with it and when done with the
> whole slot, I check the side walls with it, it's doing great!
I do hope you're taking pics along the way... :)
er
--
email not valid
Nnnnnaaaaaaawwww come on. That is soft extruded aluminum, only good for
use with a pencil. Check out the Woodjoy markers, hardened steel which is good
with marking a knife that has bevel(s) on one side. It's what I'll get when I start.
http://www.woodjoytools.com/
--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
> Parents and in-laws have no idea what to get for X-mas
> presents. Wife suggested gift certificates. Note, I
> said only $45 on *my* hard earned money. :-)
>
> --
> Steve
> http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/
Awesome! Congrats!
--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
Try this site: http://www2.gol.com/users/nhavens/htmlfile/dt1-e.html
It is about hand cutting dovetails
"Steven G. Kargl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anyone have a pointer to descriptions for laying out
> and cutting dovetails by hand?
>
> --
> Steve
> http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/
[email protected] (Steven G. Kargl) wrote in news:dud87f
[email protected]:
> Anyone have a pointer to descriptions for laying out
> and cutting dovetails by hand?
>
Greetings....
I think this page is a good place to start...
http://home.nj.rr.com/afoust/dovetails.html
It's a collection of dovetail links....hope this helps..
DCH
> Why not simply use a good bevel gauge, and either eyeball the angle or
> make a cardboard or scrap wood setting template?
>
> Barry
We always gotta spend money somehow, ay? I have a sliding T bevel, an old 6" Stanley
#18, I can set it on my steel protractor. Problem is the bevel's blade is really thin. The
thicker bladed DT square from Woodjoy will help to keep it accurate, and already be set
at the perfect angles. I think T bevels are mostly for copying miter angles, though one
could be accurately set with that veritas bevel setter. The "why not" thing is, I myself
still have to even begin learning all these skills 'after' my bench is built. I am here
attempting to learn, getting it all into my head.
--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Steven G. Kargl) writes:
> Anyone have a pointer to descriptions for laying out
> and cutting dovetails by hand?
Thanks for the links. Now, it's time to read and
make some sawdust.
Drive-by-gloat: $44.95 of my hard earned salary went towards
a LN Independence Dovetail saw and an Independence Carcass saw.
--
Steve
http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/
In article <grIOf.653$123.342@fed1read09>,
"AAvK" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> Thanks for the links. Now, it's time to read and
>> make some sawdust.
>>
>> Drive-by-gloat: $44.95 of my hard earned salary went towards
>> a LN Independence Dovetail saw and an Independence Carcass saw.
>>
>
> Well good grief... WHERE-oh-WHERE did you get THAT awesome price???
>
Parents and in-laws have no idea what to get for X-mas
presents. Wife suggested gift certificates. Note, I
said only $45 on *my* hard earned money. :-)
--
Steve
http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/
> Thanks for the links. Now, it's time to read and
> make some sawdust.
>
> Drive-by-gloat: $44.95 of my hard earned salary went towards
> a LN Independence Dovetail saw and an Independence Carcass saw.
>
> --
> Steve
> http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/
Well good grief... WHERE-oh-WHERE did you get THAT awesome price???
--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
On Sat, 04 Mar 2006 18:11:38 -0800, Tanus opined:
> I found the saddles that lee valley sold were invaluable to me when I
> first tried dovetails by hand.
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=49424&cat=1,42936,50298
In a similar thread several months ago, someone mentioned making one's
own DT saddle. It's really pretty easy, and the practice one gets in
making the angle cuts is useful when the time comes to cut the DTs. Sorry,
can't find the link right now, but dags...
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
wreck20051219 at spambob.net
On Sun, 5 Mar 2006 02:06:51 -0800, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Nnnnnaaaaaaawwww come on. That is soft extruded aluminum, only good for
>use with a pencil. Check out the Woodjoy markers, hardened steel which is good
>with marking a knife that has bevel(s) on one side. It's what I'll get when I start.
>
>http://www.woodjoytools.com/
Why not simply use a good bevel gauge, and either eyeball the angle or
make a cardboard or scrap wood setting template?
Barry