I have tried many things to plug up the raw surface of routed or
worked MDF panels. The material is easy to work other than the
dust. It is the finishing that drives me nuts,
I have used:
drywall compound
acrylic wood filler
shellac
water based urethane
oil based urethane
latex paint
multiple coats of primer
55 coats of spray paint
I have yet to find a material or method that I consider fool
proof, easy, quick - I can't even say to pick any two.
Advice on method, material, and application would be appreciated.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .
On Nov 3, 5:22=A0am, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
> says...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > I have tried many things to plug up the raw surface of routed or
> > worked MDF panels. =A0The material is easy to work other than the
> > dust. =A0It is the finishing that drives me nuts,
>
> > I have used:
> > drywall compound
> > acrylic wood filler
> > shellac
> > water based urethane
> > oil based urethane
> > latex paint
> > multiple coats of primer
> > 55 coats of spray paint
>
> > I have yet to find a material or method that I consider fool
> > proof, easy, quick - I can't even say to pick any two.
>
> > Advice on method, material, =A0and application would be appreciated.
>
> The accepted method is to use what's called a "glue size" or "glue
> sizing", you can buy it pre-mixed from the Titebond folks or just dilute
> any white or yellow glue 10:1 or so. =A0You will probably have to sand
> after.
>
> M.L. Campbell "Magnaclaw" primer is intended specifically for use on
> MDF--one good wet coat gives a good seal. =A0Note that it's a precatalyze=
d
> lacquer base and take appropriate precautions (i.e. remember that it
> will burn merrily and has toxic solvents).
>
> I haven't tried it but gray automotive primer should work.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Sounds like Magnaclaw would be the ticket. I don't know if this is
what will work for you, but something possibly available locally would
be a product called "gesso." It's like this glue idea. It's what
artists use to prime canvas before painting.
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" wrote:
>
>> Or... one could simply go out and buy something more substantial
>> than termite shit and cardboard.
> -------------------------------------
> Tough to beat if flat, stable, and low cost are part of your
> requirements.
>
> Lew
Flat I'll give ya. Otherwise - not so favorable in my book. Won't hold
fasteners, so that works against its stability claims. Lower cost I'll give
ya. Low cost - not so much. And by the time you're done screwing with the
stuff to beef it up, you've tied up as much in dollars and time, that it's
not very much lower cost.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Mike Marlow"
> Flat I'll give ya. Otherwise - not so favorable in my book. Won't
> hold fasteners, so that works against its stability claims. Lower
> cost I'll give ya. Low cost - not so much. And by the time you're
> done screwing with the stuff to beef it up, you've tied up as much
> in dollars and time, that it's not very much lower cost.
--------------------------------------
Different horses for different courses,
I use it for checking set ups, zero clearance inserts, floating panels
for painted doors, and anyplace else where flat, stable, and low cost
are prime benefits.
After that, it's down hill.
Lew
> Advice on method, material, =A0and application would be appreciated.
>
I use MDF for frame and panel\cope and stick construction where I have
items that won't take much contact wear like wainscoat or fireplace
surrounds, etc. I use sharp bits, never sand the routed edges and use
dry wall primer followed by house paint. Pretty smooth to my eye. Not
usre what application you are after but maybe real wood would be
better?
Josepi wrote:
> "DanG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> I have tried many things to plug up the raw surface of routed or
> worked MDF panels. The material is easy to work other than the
> dust. It is the finishing that drives me nuts,
>
> I have used:
> drywall compound
> acrylic wood filler
> shellac
> water based urethane
> oil based urethane
> latex paint
> multiple coats of primer
> 55 coats of spray paint
>
> I have yet to find a material or method that I consider fool
> proof, easy, quick - I can't even say to pick any two.
>
> Advice on method, material, and application would be appreciated.
> A thin coating of contact cement followed by another thin coating of
> veneer hardwood would do it.
>
> A thin coating of contact cement followed by another thin coating of
> veneer hardwood would do it.
>
Or... one could simply go out and buy something more substantial than
termite shit and cardboard.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
A thin coating of contact cement followed by another thin coating of veneer
hardwood would do it.
"DanG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I have tried many things to plug up the raw surface of routed or
worked MDF panels. The material is easy to work other than the
dust. It is the finishing that drives me nuts,
I have used:
drywall compound
acrylic wood filler
shellac
water based urethane
oil based urethane
latex paint
multiple coats of primer
55 coats of spray paint
I have yet to find a material or method that I consider fool
proof, easy, quick - I can't even say to pick any two.
Advice on method, material, and application would be appreciated.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .
The stuff is strong and real stable but damn heavy...too heavy
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Tough to beat if flat, stable, and low cost are part of your
requirements.
Lew
"Mike Marlow" wrote:
<snips snipped>
On 11/3/10 11:00 PM, in article
[email protected], "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
> "Mike Marlow" wrote:
>
>> Or... one could simply go out and buy something more substantial
>> than termite shit and cardboard.
> -------------------------------------
> Tough to beat if flat, stable, and low cost are part of your
> requirements.
With caveats
Stable as long as it doesn't absorb moisture
Flat if there are no long unsupported lengths. It does tend to develop sag
over time.
As to the finishing question, the only time I have put any finish on MDF, it
was oil-based paint and I started with automotive sanding primer. No
problems.
But if you use sharp bits, very little sanding is needed. But I would never
use MDF in an exposed part of furniture. My main use is in shop jigs.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> I have tried many things to plug up the raw surface of routed or
> worked MDF panels. The material is easy to work other than the
> dust. It is the finishing that drives me nuts,
>
> I have used:
> drywall compound
> acrylic wood filler
> shellac
> water based urethane
> oil based urethane
> latex paint
> multiple coats of primer
> 55 coats of spray paint
>
> I have yet to find a material or method that I consider fool
> proof, easy, quick - I can't even say to pick any two.
>
> Advice on method, material, and application would be appreciated.
The accepted method is to use what's called a "glue size" or "glue
sizing", you can buy it pre-mixed from the Titebond folks or just dilute
any white or yellow glue 10:1 or so. You will probably have to sand
after.
M.L. Campbell "Magnaclaw" primer is intended specifically for use on
MDF--one good wet coat gives a good seal. Note that it's a precatalyzed
lacquer base and take appropriate precautions (i.e. remember that it
will burn merrily and has toxic solvents).
I haven't tried it but gray automotive primer should work.
The stuff is strong and real stable but damn heavy...too heavy
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Tough to beat if flat, stable, and low cost are part of your
requirements.
Lew
"Mike Marlow" wrote:
<snips snipped>
On Tue, 2 Nov 2010 22:43:22 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Oct 27, 12:05 am, "DanG" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I have tried many things to plug up the raw surface of routed or
>> worked MDF panels. The material is easy to work other than the
>> dust. It is the finishing that drives me nuts,
>>
>> I have used:
>> drywall compound
[...snip...]
I've used drywall compound and found it easy and quick. I *think* it
should be fool proof. I just spread it on with my finger and sand the
excess it off after it dries.
What didn't you like about it?
On Oct 27, 12:05=A0am, "DanG" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have tried many things to plug up the raw surface of routed or
> worked MDF panels. =A0The material is easy to work other than the
> dust. =A0It is the finishing that drives me nuts,
>
> I have used:
> drywall compound
> acrylic wood filler
> shellac
> water based urethane
> oil based urethane
> latex paint
> multiple coats of primer
> 55 coats of spray paint
>
> I have yet to find a material or method that I consider fool
> proof, easy, quick - I can't even say to pick any two.
>
> Advice on method, material, =A0and application would be appreciated.
Hey Dan. Since you mention drywall compound straight off, I would
guess you've seen the FWW article.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArtic=
le.aspx?id=3D26508
JLC
http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3D25428
You didn't mention glue, so...
http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2010/06/03/painting-mdf/
Sand, sand, sand.
http://shoryuken.com/f177/how-paint-mdf-mirror-finish-worklog-191692/
R